Interesting, I'll have to take a closer look at those for my future projects...I never messed with an SST emitter but I've heard about them back in the day. As for the lightbar I have, I'll just cut the aluminum down and put it back up over the desk...
Yea...I made a 6 foot aluminum light bar, and last year, I fried one of the emitters by shorting it out. I might be better off cutting the aluminum heatsink down and run the light with 5 emitters. Thanks for the sources, it's been a good 5 or 10 years since I visited this forum, hope to get back...
I took a very long break from buying/building LED projects and I just saw that one of my favorite shops(shiningbeam) had closed it's doors a ways back...looking for new places to source them for my projects....
The CXA3590 is rated to max out around 11,000 lumens and the CXB3590 is rated to max out around 18,000 lumens. Wondered what kind of heatsink I would need to have, but would make a killer outside light to light my driveway vs the MH I got burning up the electric bill
I'm gonna take a second to hijack this thread as it's related to the OP question....
Wife and I are closing on a house on Wednesday and the property has two old metal halide bulbs that I'm sure are burning 400 watts each...I'm looking to replace with some really bright outdoor lights over the...
I didn't feel comfortable running it at the original amperage, so I opted to use a 750mA driver that I already had on hand. Working great without any issues, now if the heatsink was 2" wide a bit more, I would've used the other driver.
To even get the wire inside the bulb to put out any IR radiation, you will still need to push some decent power through a wire and overcome the resistance. I do not believe this technology will ever be as efficient as LEDS, nor take any foothold in the market...I've been wrong before, so who...