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Moddoolar Triple Wasp Cooling Head and Glow System
- Thread starter ElectronGuru
- Start date
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Are you saying at least 3A per emitter? That is quite a lot for the 219. Efficiency goes way down there. I haven't personally seen it. Is it really worth it in your opinion?
Not sure what the two of you are referring to... Manufacturer recommended current is 1.5A per. The current 219B head is capped at 18W. That translates to roughly 1.8A per LED if my math is sound. On CPF anything goes, but there's no benefit to driving a 219B at 3A...unless you're just doing it for fun/science.
I've seen some of the development behind these engines and they are already pushing the limits of what the specific LED's can handle. IIRC, a 219B board blew out the LED's when tested at 3A each. Anything beyond 18W for the 219B's starts to become unstable. If you want more output, the upcoming XP-L heads will be worth waiting for
Str8stroke
Flashlight Enthusiast
I would like to call dibs on a HA, ALTiN, Trit Wasp UCL, 219, 18350, triad/trit/clip, med press! Nice light.
lovecpfSeriously, keep up the great work!
Kestrel
Flashaholic
Hate to tell ya, but it's summer in OR right now. The forecast for today's high is 70 degrees.
ElectronGuru
Flashaholic
Hate to tell ya, but it's summer in OR right now. The forecast for today's high is 70 degrees.
recDNA
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 8,761
Nice choice!I would like to call dibs on a HA, ALTiN, Trit Wasp UCL, 219, 18350, triad/trit/clip, med press! Nice light.
Seriously, keep up the great work!
The latest 219b heads are running 15w. This is equal to 4.5A total for the 3 leds. That should be in the "decent" range [emoji1]
Nice :twothumbs
I was wondering whether edeekeos was referring to 3A divided between three emitters i.e. 1.5A per emitter, or 3A to one emitter. If it was the latter I was wondering if he had any personal insight what the benefit there was or if it was even possible/practical. I was under the same impression with you that 1.5A-1.8A is a safe limit to drive this emitter. I like the 15w model for the efficiency.
I was looking at some sphere testing on a similar emitter (NVSL219AT-H1) from this thread. I made a quick graph of drive current vs. lumen/watt. The drive current steps in 100mA until 1500 when it jumps to 2000.
Wow Yeah I was meaning 3a total, but holy smokes 1.8 per is insane. I've got a single 219b running at 2.2a, but all the triples I build usually stop at around 1a/led.
I REALLY want one of these! I'd pay a premium for a 219 head right now..
15w is still nuts, 18w infinitely variable would be better, but either way I want, no, NEED ONE..
I REALLY want one of these! I'd pay a premium for a 219 head right now..
15w is still nuts, 18w infinitely variable would be better, but either way I want, no, NEED ONE..
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recDNA
Flashaholic
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2009
- Messages
- 8,761
I love your infinitely variable idea but 3 amps total is plenty for me from an 18350.
Well now if I remember correctly:
Volts X (times) Amps = Watts
(or) Watts divided by Amps equals Volts
So then 15 watts divided by 4.5 amps, means that you are saying that the emitters are getting about 3.3 volts? What am I missing?
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easilyled
Flashaholic
As I understand it, emitters don't "get" voltage, they "get current" supplied to them.
The potential difference across the emitters (ie the voltage) is defined by the Vf (forward Voltage) of the emitters and is independent of the potential difference across the battery terminals which changes as the battery pack loses capacity during the time that its actively lighting the emitters up.
So the 3.3 volts that you are referring to is probably the average Vf of the emitters concerned.
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This is getting just nerdy enough for me. I like it.
Thanks for providing the data sheets Isaac. The driver spec sheet was also very useful you linked several pages back.
It seems like it is the job of the driver to regulate voltage and current to the emitters. LED's being diodes are designed to allow current to flow in only one direction. The reverse voltage which is not really a consideration in lighting applications is the level of voltage that the diode can block so that no current will flow. The forward voltage is the proper polarity of voltage in which the diode will allow current to flow. If the voltage applied is the correct polarity and is of sufficient magnitude then current will flow. If the the voltage is too low than no current will flow and no light will be emitted. If the voltage is too high then the insulating integrity of the emitter will fail and go poof. So voltage must be of correct polarity and proper magnitude. While regulating a proper voltage the driver also must regulate a proper current. This is how the brightness is adjusted. Too little and again no visible light. Too much current and overheating, thermal breakdown, and again poof.
The driver can make things difficult to understand what is going on in simple terms. Power in at the battery terminals will equal power out (minus efficiency losses) to the LED's however it does not necessarily mean that it is the same voltage or current levels as at the battery. The current could be higher and the voltage lower. It could be pulsing current at twice the wattage but doing so 50% of the time.
Either way this is super flashlight, a work of art, and a technological masterpiece. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for providing the data sheets Isaac. The driver spec sheet was also very useful you linked several pages back.
It seems like it is the job of the driver to regulate voltage and current to the emitters. LED's being diodes are designed to allow current to flow in only one direction. The reverse voltage which is not really a consideration in lighting applications is the level of voltage that the diode can block so that no current will flow. The forward voltage is the proper polarity of voltage in which the diode will allow current to flow. If the voltage applied is the correct polarity and is of sufficient magnitude then current will flow. If the the voltage is too low than no current will flow and no light will be emitted. If the voltage is too high then the insulating integrity of the emitter will fail and go poof. So voltage must be of correct polarity and proper magnitude. While regulating a proper voltage the driver also must regulate a proper current. This is how the brightness is adjusted. Too little and again no visible light. Too much current and overheating, thermal breakdown, and again poof.
The driver can make things difficult to understand what is going on in simple terms. Power in at the battery terminals will equal power out (minus efficiency losses) to the LED's however it does not necessarily mean that it is the same voltage or current levels as at the battery. The current could be higher and the voltage lower. It could be pulsing current at twice the wattage but doing so 50% of the time.
Either way this is super flashlight, a work of art, and a technological masterpiece. Keep up the good work.
Anyone put tritium a in theirs yet?
I am itching to but I have never done it before. Are there any recommendations for members in the US that will supply and install tritium?
Maybe I will just have to get some from Bert and give it a try.
I am itching to but I have never done it before. Are there any recommendations for members in the US that will supply and install tritium?
Maybe I will just have to get some from Bert and give it a try.
gktii
Enlightened
Bart is the only person i know that sells them on CPF...but i could be wrong...and i've never installed them either..i've got the slots on mine, but haven't purchased them yet...Norland, trits and UV light are what i've heard you need...let me know if you take the leap and do it yourself...interested to see how they turn out..
delus
Newly Enlightened
I got a few of bert's tritiums, didn't know what to do either.
Bert did good by keeping his shipping charge low, no need to order any more than you need. It took almost two weeks to ship from Germany.
They come in a little container, wrapped in cotton. They are pretty small, hard to find in there. Easy to lose if you drop them.
I figured the slots might be sized just right that the trits slip in and stay via compression, but they fell out without some glue. I put some superglue on cardboard, then used a toothpick to get just a tiny drop of glue into the slot, and then inserted the trit. Don't know if this is really the "correct" glue. Seems to work good, so far.
The glow is not noticeable at all in daylight. Just about perfect after dark.
Bert did good by keeping his shipping charge low, no need to order any more than you need. It took almost two weeks to ship from Germany.
They come in a little container, wrapped in cotton. They are pretty small, hard to find in there. Easy to lose if you drop them.
I figured the slots might be sized just right that the trits slip in and stay via compression, but they fell out without some glue. I put some superglue on cardboard, then used a toothpick to get just a tiny drop of glue into the slot, and then inserted the trit. Don't know if this is really the "correct" glue. Seems to work good, so far.
The glow is not noticeable at all in daylight. Just about perfect after dark.
