CandlePowerForums

Update the TK20!

WHT_GE8 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:26:21 GMT

Is there nothing in the works yet? Its one of their only lights that hasnt been updated. I wouldnt mind if they kept the 2 AA bomb proof body, but maybe a brighter version with an orange peel reflector to clean up the beam? And of course still keep the warm tint. Its an amazing light especially at the price, im on the verge of buying it, but it still seems pretty underpowered at 150 lumens. Whos with me? :wave:

FS: Surefire E1L reflector mod (KL1-R)

asdalton — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:02:12 GMT

This is a Luxeon E1L with the stock optic replaced with a McR-20 reflector and UCL glass. :) I've moved on to brighter lights, and this one has become a shelf queen for me.

The original Luxeon III LED and driver are the same. The tint is a nice snow white. It runs on CR123A or RCR123A. (The head can also use 2xCR123A or 1x17670 with a 2-cell body.)

This mod came out very well. The beam is perfectly centered, and there are no fingerprints or dust on the inside of the reflector or lens. There are a few tiny scratches and dings in the anodization, with the worst being a ~1 mm nick on the tailcap that the photos here don't show.

$95 shipped to USA. Likely the same for international; PM me first.

need some help on charging 18650's

mustang90 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:54:23 GMT

Sorry for the newb sounding thread, but I have not dealt with the ultrafire 18650 batteries I bought to run in my M1X. I bought an ultrafire 3.7 volt charger to use. My question is, since there is no instructions whatsovever with the charger, how long will it take to charge both cells? There is an indicator light for each cell that switches to red once the battery is in place. It is green when there are no batteries inserted.

For Sale:McGizmo McLux III PD-S

karlheinz3 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:53:07 GMT

I have up for grabs a slate (black) aluminum McGizmo McLux III PD-S. There are a couple of tiny annodizing chips on the tail edge but otherwise this is in excellent condition with no dents, dings, or scratches. I am asking $275 shipped in the USA. Let me know who is interested in this timeless classic The emmiter has been upgraded from the original.

Holy carp! What have I done?!

Brewer — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:33:54 GMT

And I hold you lot entirely responsible:broke:

I came to this forum a couple of weeks ago as I felt the need for a decent LED flashlight (maybe two) and was a bit overwhelmed by the options.

I have to leave now, having pulled the trigger on the following:

Keychain/pocket:
1 x Titanium Innovations IlluminaTi AAA
1 x Quark Preon 1 Ti
1 x ITP A3 EOS, SS
1 x Quark MiNi 123
(I'll probably pick my favourite one or two to keep and use, and give the others away as presents)

Bag/jacket:
1 x Quark Preon 2 Ti
2 x Quark AA R5
1 x Nitecore PD D10
(The Preon will probably serve as a posh/suit light, maybe even becoming an heirloom piece if the quality is up to it. The Quarks will probably be my edc and serve as bike lights too. The D10 might go to SWMBO (who uses an electric wheelchair), unless I really like it, in which case I might swap it for one of the Quarks or get her something else)

Accessories:
1 x AA2 Quark body
1 x 123 Quark body
1 x Nitecore D10 pocket clip
1 x pair Dosun bike pedals
(I might use the AA2 body to boost one of the Quarks if needed for cycling or camping. The 123 body is just for fun. The pedals were just a bargain I couldn't resist)

So there you go, I hope you're all very proud of yourselves. :D

Surefire M961XM07

tundratrader — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:25:37 GMT

I am not familiar with these lights. Can a regular sf tailcap be used? Does the body split in half where the weapon mount part is? Could an A19 be used in place of that?

Hope that makes since.
Thanks
Zach

More Mokume Madness

PhotonFanatic — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:57:02 GMT

This build is actually a continuation of this thread.

Forced myself to try to complete this Tri-Color Mokume Gane Light, which was started a long time ago.

Today I completed the machining, LE build, etc., and was left with the final task--how to finish the surface of this light.

As built, the light looked like this, after buffing, but before any etching:

You can clearly see the three different colors of the three metals of the Mokume Gane--copper, brass and nickel silver. While I like highly polished lights, if left in this state, the light would soon show a lot of scratch marks, since these are very soft metals and a highly reflective surface would just make every little scratch clearly visible.

My first completed Mokume Gane light, the Kuukuu Killer, was both etched and patinated, with chemicals. As a learning experience, it came out fairly well, but this time I wanted to try something a bit different, and without using any patina.

So the game plan was to etch, clean, and then etch in a different solution, even deeper. Then clean, buff lightly, clean off the compound and see what it looked like.

Here are some shots after the first etch:

What these photos do not convey very well is that the etch seemed to show the crystaline structure of all three metals extremely clearly--creating a multitude of colored facets. To be honest, it was very nice after the first etch, but not quite deep enough.

So, after a clean-up, it went on to etching solution #2, which was half the time of the previous soak, because this solution was a lot more aggressive. After a quick neutralizing, the light was buffed lightly and then cleaned of the compound. Here is the final result:

Texture?? Does anyone want some texture? :crackup:

Even these photos don't do the surface justice--it is actually rather shiny in where the copper layer is on the outermost surface. Very fascinating result, to say the least.

Yeah, for those who might wonder--it will be put up for sale in B/S/T tomorrow, after I have a chance to take some natural daylight photos.
There were all taken on my lathe's crossslide, using Reveal lights, or flash, so the colors aren't really that good.

And, oh, the threads are in perfect condtion--they were not etched:

Starter Projects

Nated1971 — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:44:57 GMT

I'm about to have some free time on my hands and wanted to start doing some simple LED projects to start the learning curve. My end goal is to make a ring light, like Packhorses, and some UW photo lights. What would you all recommend I pick up to start putting together? Are there kits I can purchase or what individual components should I look for.

TIA
Nate

Floodiest 1xAA light?

B0wz3r — Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:17:37 GMT

I recently gave my best friend my Fenix L1Tv2 and am trying to decide on a new 1xAA EDC light.

For the kinds of things I use my pocket light for, flood is far more preferable than throw, but there are also times where that's useful too, so I'm not sure a zebra will work that well for me.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Has Anyone Ever Reported a La Crosse BC-700 Meltdown?

TakeTheActive — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:50:05 GMT

I just did a 'CPF Only' Google Search with the keywords: melt OR mosfet bc700 OR "BC-700"

...and didn't find any reported (by scanning just the 22 titles and summaries).

Has anyone who owns both a BC-700 and a BC-900 opened them up to compare the MOSFETS?
.
On the same note, has anyone who owns both a BC-900 and a BC-9009 opened them up to compare the MOSFETS?

:thinking:

Honda EB3000 Generator with Cycloconverter

ecallahan — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:37:05 GMT

I have been looking all over the internet for more information on this, and lo and behold I find a thread on another Honda generator that brings me back to my beloved candlepowerforums. So I'll post here.

I just ordered the Honda EB3000. I have been researching Honda, Briggs and Stratton, and Yamaha. I ended up going with Honda, because of the quality and good fuel consumption, low noise etc. I ended up with this specific model because I felt the price was good, it's low weight, had enough rated watts for my use.

I know it's too late to ask this question, because I can't really return the generator. But I'm wondering if any of you have one of these generators, and can tell me if the cycloconverter technology works fine as a home backup generator. I will be using it to power the fridge, forced air furnace, TV (not high def) mostly. Is the sine wave clean enough for these applications? Is it clean enough for use with a computer? Any other advice from someone who has used a Honda with this technology.

Thanks in advance,

Emergency Vehicle Strobe Lights: A Legal Question

RalphRussell — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:33:13 GMT

I have a question that hopefully a CPF member may be able to answer.

I recently bought a Whelen Dashmaster II dual strobe light over in CPF Marketplace. This is a light that can be used for emergency vehicles (police, fire). I have no business with this if I was planning on using it for its normal purpose. I'm certain I'd be breaking the law if this was in my car and I turned it on.

Anyway, the purpose for which I bought it is to use it as stage lighting (special effects) for my band. It came with amber lenses. I wanted to find blue and red to replace the amber.

I went on eBay looking for red and blue lenses that will fit it. Then I discovered that red, blue and green lenses that are for emergency vehicle lights are a prohibited item on eBay. EBay is afraid you are going to use them to impersonate a police officer.

All this has now got me wondering if my intended use (special effects stage lighting) is legal. Does anyone know? I would only use it indoors in conjunction with performances by my band. I will never use it in a vehicle.

Quark mini 123

007Runner — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:30:24 GMT

Quark mini 123 does anybody have one? I am looking for beam shots and a review but having no luck finding it.

Are the Quark lights in general good quality?

Just a light Christmas light picture

Wits' End — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:07:00 GMT

Feel free to post your own, this is from National Geographic, I have the big one on my desktop.

any one bought from mydashop? pros / cons?

mikek753 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:05:02 GMT

hi all,

I've got LED mostly from DX, but now found this mydashop com
it has LEDs for less.
Any one already got anything from this shop?
Good / bad experience?

I never ordered from this web site, so I'd like to know if anyone did.

tnx

Recommendations for a first cheap light :)

Piloto13 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:01:24 GMT

Hello,
First post here! Iv'e been looking around for a flashlight for some time now. I was about to buy some cheap one from Big 5 sporting goods, but then I happened to come across this forum.

I'm looking for something small that I can use around my apartment. Lately my power has been randomly going out leaving me in the dark- and so I need a light!

I'm on a tight budget, so that's my main concern. I definetely can't spend more than 50$, and the lesser the better.

I've been researching and like some of the Fenix lights, but am also looking at alot of the lights from dealextreme after reading through bessiebenny's thread. Yeah, I know they're not the best, but the price seems unbeatable!

I'd prefer something that can run on standard batteries (ie, AA or AAA), unless I can find a good deal on some rechargeables.

Any recommendations?

Thanks!

I broke down and got a Blu-Ray

LuxLuthor — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:19:19 GMT

I have been very happy with my Oppo DV-980H upcoding multi-region DVD player, but wanted to get a WiFi setup to pick up my Netflix & other online media, as well as network with my PC server in the other room.

I was looking at the Roku digital video player which has great reviews, and had no plans to get a Blu-Ray. Then I saw the built in WiFi and USB-2 input and other media features & great reviews, so ordered one of these LG BD390 players. It is not region free, but that's ok since I have my Oppo.

I'm not about to duplicate my existing DVD collection, but there are a few classics I will probably end up getting. For starters, I ordered the BBC Planet Earth collection, and BladeRunner Collector edition.

What other HIGH QUALITY, well done BR converted or new titles do you guys recommend? Any other strong candidates besides these that are remarkably better on BR than from upcoding DVD?

Thanks

temporary 18650 charger

longcommon — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:05:20 GMT

hi guys i have this charger to charge my cr123 batreys and while im waiting for my ultrafire wf-139 charger i was wondering if i could rig this charger up http://www.7dayshop.com/catalog/prod...ucts_id=102879 to charge my 18650 battreys

LD01 Just Arrived. Did the Lego. Likey Light Lot

coldpointcrossing — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:37:31 GMT

My Ld01 just arrived (about time!!) and talk about night and day versus the Microstream. Couldn't stand the twist UI but I knew before ordering it that it wasn't going to stay that way. Already had two Micros with the extra just for the Lego.

I started boiling water right after I opened the package, put the Micro in a baggie, and waited till the water started boiling. Dunked for about one minute, grabbed two pliers and a towel to prevent marring, twisted and it popped right off. Cool.

When I assembled the pieces everything worked awesome BUT I didn't like the gap between the LD01 head and Micro body so I grabbed my Dremel and removed just a couple of threads worth off the body's forward end. I double-checked the threads and all good. Put it back together and it looks and functions super. My EDC just improved 100%. Sweet. Poor quality pics below but I think you can see what I am talking about -

Above : Stock Micro at left and LD01/Micro Lego at right. Noticeable difference in height.

Above : No gap! Looks super clean. Removed about two threads with a Dremel.

Got to love a good tail clicky EDC.
I was like whoa. And they were like whoa. And then I was like whooaa.

Any gunsmiths in our community?

1wrx7 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:27:30 GMT

I've been working on my own firearms for years, now I've decided to take it further. I've also been working at the same job for over 13 years... and I'm getting tired of making other people rich, while I have no room for improvement. It's not a bad job, and I've learned a lot while working there. It's just that I don't really have a future there:scowl: I can't just quit... especially in this economy:(... but I need to do something to try to make my life better, and prepare for retirement in the future.

So... I just signed up for a professional gunsmithing course. The course also covers welding and machining. I'm hoping as long as I put in the work I'll have the chance to learn some new skills and hopefully in the future be able to work for myself instead of working for others. The old addage "If you're doing something you love, it's not really work" definately applies here for me. I love working with my hands, and firearms should be a lot more fun than adhesive dispensing equipment:whistle:

Just to add a flashlight reference... to go along with the machining course, I'll be recieving a small metal turning lathe:D So along with machining gun parts I should be able to start turning heatsinks, bodies and a lot of other flashlight related parts of my own:party:

The question in the title still stands... any other gunsmiths here? Any thoughts, words of wisdom, ect....

Power Supply Capacitor Question

ronkar — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:23:37 GMT

For the EE's out there...

I have a hefty old 12 volt power supply which no longer puts out clean 12 volt DC. My presumption is that one or more filter capacitors no longer function. No scope here, but my DMM shows a significant AC component on output. The unit looks as if it was well built, so I don't want to just chuck it. Not sure if I want to bother repairing it right now, but I do have questions.

The main capacitors are rated at 33 volts, 10,000 microfarads (Sprague 208238). These are huge units, about 4 1/2 inches long, and 2 inches in diameter with screw terminals. I see on the internet that modern capacitors with a similar voltage and capacitance rating are available relatively cheap, but they are far smaller, and they have only solder leads. The new ones are so much smaller that something does not seem right...unless modern materials and construction have rendered the old dinosaurs obsolete.

My question is, can a new, small electrolytic capacitor be substituted for the original physically large units which are wired to the bridge rectifier? Or am I looking at an instant :poof: Also, the old caps are marked with a red spot on one screw connector, which I can only guess is the + terminal. Is this correct?

If an extremely inexpensive replacement isn't possible, I will put this thing back in the basement. The case, transformer, etc. could be used for a different project on another day when finances are a bit more conducive to experimenting.

WTB: AOTH Holester for LS20

senna94 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:00:05 GMT

I am looking for a black AOTH Holester for a McGizmo Lunasol 20. If you have one that you are willing to part with please let me know. I prefer stingray or elephant skin but will consider other options also.

thanks,
Paul

What voltage does a CR123 die at?

tpcollins — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:48:23 GMT

I've had a Fenix TK-11 for 2 years nows and I noticed the beam was low yesterday so I put a new set of batteries in it. The new batteries had a voltage reading of 3.24 volts, the old batteries were at 2.879 volts - that loss of .361 volts represents a reduction of 11%. I assume that's a sufficient amount of loss? Thanks.

Turnigy Photo Link Test

ronkar — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:11:40 GMT

This is my current charger, the Accucell-6. :)

http://mysite.verizon.net/vzepa7c3/s...es/Turnigy.JPG

The charger is powered by a modified PC power supply. You can see the wires holding the load resistor (on the 5v output) at the top of the case, and the small switch on top. Only the 12v output is used outside the case. The unit supplies about 11.35 volts to the charger under load.

http://mysite.verizon.net/ronkar1/si...owerSupply.JPG

Handpresso

CLHC — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:01:30 GMT

< Handpresso >

Anyone here have any experience with said product for espresso on the go? :grin2:

Jet III-M low profile crenulated bezel problem.

hyperion666 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:50:33 GMT

Hi

I just receives my JET III-M and I ordered the low profile crenulated bezel with it but, it wont screw all the way to make contact with the lens so the lens is loose and it's no longer watertight. Any one have encounter this problem before?

Thanks

Strike Bezel - gimmick or useful?

SuperTrouper — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:49:27 GMT

Hello,

I'm fairly new to the forums however I can't seem to find a topic on this subject around the forums already.

I've mainly used Maglites in the past, primarily because of what I believed to be good runtimes and their self defence properties. I've recently updated to the new Rebel Maglites.

I live in a country where you're not allowed to carry anything for the express purpose of self defence, you are expected to go about less well protected than criminals, but a torch, having another purpose, I believe is generally fair game if you're out walking at night.

Does anyone have any information on wether or not the strike bezels on products like the Surefire E2DL are actually useful? It's not my intention to start a flame war or anything so forgive me if this is one of those sensitive topics that outsiders unwittingly kick off from time to time that sparks the flames.

I've been reading reviews on Surefire lights and I do like the small sizes offering more personal protection options than my current EDC, a Rebel AA Mini Maglite.

So thanks in advance for any advice/opinions.

S'Mores! Led for melting marshmallows

clutchsauce — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:22:58 GMT

Long story, but I need to somehow melt marshmallows usiing only batteries. Can you guys give me any suggestions for the cheapest LED to buy and battery. I do have a $ 30 limit. Also the LED would have to not burn out after a few uses something that can actually sustain mutiple uses of around a minute (or less) of use each time.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Other ideas would also be welcome for alternative ways to melt soemthing. I was originally thinking toaster like heating coils but that draws far too much electricity.

JetBeam Single Cell - Questions for JetBeam connoisseurs

Federal LG — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:16:31 GMT

Hi there

I should confess that I am confused with all those JetBeam�s models and numbers! I can�t say which one is the newer or better.

Well, I�m looking for a SINGLE CELL JetBeam light, powered by 1xCR123, but I do accept 1xAA powered too...

Can someone point me the best model ? I want something small but powerful! I don�t have any JetBeam yet, but I always loved their finish and anodization (but I only saw from pics...).

Opinions ? Links ? Pics ? Explanations ? Send them all!

Thanks in advance

Who can put a Q3 emitter in my Eagle Tac T10L ?

Valmet62 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:57:15 GMT

I love the beam pattern and run time on my T10L, but want a Neutral tint beam like my T100c2. Who can do this for me?

Thanks
Valmet62

help with build?

Deathyak — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:29:07 GMT

edit: nm i got it. Can't find a way to delete the thread...

Making your own

samuelp — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:03:24 GMT

Having purchased a ultrafire c3 and wf-606a iam convinced the q5 cree emmiter is enough for my mountain biking needs.

Basically, if i wanted to make a bike light what would i need, from dx preferably, i was thinking 2 q5 drop in's? What would i need to make a bike light with 2 q5 emitters, i can make the housing for the insides but i need to know how to make the insides.

all help thankfully recieved

Loose pocket clip/ anti-roll ring on new DBS V3

Matt7337 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:31:26 GMT

I just got my new Dereelight DBS V3 today and am mostly delighted with it, but the rear accessory attachment holes are too big on it and both the ring and the clip are loose when fitted. Does anyone else have this problem with their V3's or have I got a less than perfect sample?

XP-G in Ultrafire C3 SS

superpila — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:23:15 GMT

I've tried a mod on my Ultrafire C3 SS from DX (sku.26122). Wonderful flashlight for the money, but mine had a greenish q5 and a very ringy beam. Also, I wasn't using it anymore since I got my 5 mode akoray/nkoray (same driver but I got a better tint).
For this mod I used KD XPG r5 on 16mm board, which perfectly replaces the original Q5 board.
To remove the original star I left the head into the freezer for 6 hours. After this treatment the glue snapped easily twisting the board with a pair of screwdrivers.
When reassembling the head with the new board, I applied good quality thermal compound in place of the old bulk one. Also, I used an alu foil to fill the gap between the reflector hole and the led die. I found out that this easy workaround noticeably improves the beam pattern.
In the end, the flashlight lost a bit of throw (I'm not even sure about that because although the hotspot is a bit larger, the increased brightness compensates this) but gained a much better beam pattern. I really like the result and will try the same mod on the Akoray as soon as I get my hands on another XP-G 16mm board.

The XPG soldered:

Everything back in place. Notice the thick alu foil filling the gap around the led. This part is insulated with a thin layer of tape between it and the top of the board:

Beamshots (each flashlight at its highest mode):

Fenix LD20 on the left, C3SS XPG r5 running on 14500 on the right:

Akoray K106 (3 modes programmable version) running on 14500 on the left, C3SS XPG r5 running on 14500 on the right:

Accumanager 20 setup

kestak — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:38:32 GMT

Greetings,

Anyone could give an informative comment on this setup?

http://www.pvpower.com/20-watt-solar...y-charger.aspx

I plan to switch the rigid solar pannel with a flexible one that is more portable.

Thank you

FS: Mint condition SunDrop XR-U

mcmc — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:29:41 GMT

Hello folks,

Up for sale is a Mint condition SunDrop XR-U. Never been carried, has wonderful machining and is in tip-top shape. The machining lines seem finer than on my old LS20. There's nary a blemish I can see, even on the clip.

This 3-speed, high-CRI titanium clicky light can be yours for $440! =) First I'll take it, takes it. Thanks.

Castor Oil for flashlights

palomino77 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:24:34 GMT

I started this investigation because of urgency to find decent oil from what I had at home because of camping trip tomorrow. :thinking:

Decided to start new thread because this might be very interesting for us.

Here is what I have found so far about pure castor oil:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Castor_oil

It seems to be good for silicone o-rings: http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Castor%20Oil

And also natural rubber o-rings: http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SC=none&SM=Natural%20Rubber#che m

It has been used on aluminum engines for a very long time with good results.

And it is also good for your health: (FDA) has categorized castor oil as "generally recognized as safe and effective" (GRASE) for over-the-counter use as a laxative, with its major site of action the small intestine.[17] However, although it may be used for constipation, it is not a preferred treatment.[18]Undecylenic acid, a castor oil derivative, is also FDA-approved for over-the-counter use on skin disorders or skin problems.

Here is a good article on castor oil: http://www.go-cl.se/castor.html I know it has gum build-up on engines but that is because the constant burning of fuel and accumulation of oil. but it is easily removed and is bio degradable (Good for our planet) it is also safe to use,, I don't know about you guys but sometimes I put my flashlight in my mouth to hold and don't want to wash hands every time I change batteries or something. It is easy to get and you don't have to worry about the kids getting there hands on it, you can even use it on your skin for many ailments. It might be worth it for us guys to investigate further and see what comes up. What do you think?
I’m kind of leaning towards pure castor oil. :grin2:

SSC P4 or Cree behind NX05?

GarageBoy — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:18:47 GMT

So anyone try any of these LEDs with the classic Luxeon NX05 optic? I want to get a sandwich built for my Firefly, but I want to keep the stock look

newbie / question about old mystery flashlight

chunkstyle — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:16:38 GMT

hi guys --

i'm a newbie here -- found your forum while researching this old flashlight i vaguely remember from my childhood. i was wondering if anyone could please give me some input on this.

i sorta remember this flashlight my grandpa had when i was a kid, probably sometime around 1970 - 1978, and i'm trying to find out if it really existed, or if it was just something i've imagined all these years. it probably sounds stupid, but i've always wondered in the back of my mind if it was real or not -- as an adult, i've found that you have these vague memories from childhood that may or may not be true, and this one has always bugged me a bit.

the flashlight i remember (again -- my memory's pretty hazy about this) was reddish-colored plastic (maybe toward the maroon end of red), with a textured finish, and was ovalish-to-kidney-shaped and kinda flat, like a palm flashlight or something. the bulb, if i remember correctly, was embedded in one end, and may have been encircled by a metal trim piece resembling a finishing washer. i don't remember how it switched on and off -- maybe a squeeze light of some kind.

i don't remember exactly, but i may have swiped it from him because it was so cool, and then snuck it back because i felt really guilty. dumb kid!

have any of you ever encountered a light like this or not? i've always wondered about it, but never thought to ask my grandpa before he died, and so am unsure if it actually existed or not.

one of those dumb childhood things, you know?

thank you!

McGizmo Ti 2 x 123 Clicky Pak SPF (Aleph P7 LE...SOLD)

tx101 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:54:02 GMT

I originally brought these to build myself a Ti P7 Mule
but never got around to having a Ti Mule head machined.

An AW 17670 with the label peeled off will fit into the Pak
These normally go for $230 + shipping from "the Man" himself :D

The P7 LE was build by DatiLED.
More details can be found here

For the Ti 2x123 Clicky Pak $180 including PP fees and Registered shipping SPF

For the P7 LE $100 plus free raw aluminium Mule head including PP
fees and Registered shipping Sold to Littlerm

1st to post "I'll Take it" in this post gets it
PP only
Prompt payment is appreciated

Thanks

COP in need of Help! Raptor RRT-2 ? OR?

Pbanks99 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:30:47 GMT

Hey Everybody,

I am new to CPF (this is my 1st post). I am a Police Officer looking for a new light for duty carry. I work nights and currently carry a Gladius on my belt and a Fenix TK40 in my duty bag. Looking to replace the Gladius, cool light but I have been using it three years and want something more up to date. The Gladius has an excellent quick draw duty holster, which has made me hesitant to go with a different light.

I have seen so many great lights on here: my favorites being, Jetbeam Raptor RRT-2, Olight M20, Jetbeam Jet-III M, and the Fenix TK-11 R2.

The main issue I have is being able to carry the light on my duty belt or at least one that has a clip, I would have bought the RRT-2 already but no clip and no holster (that I have seen) for that light. The main reason I think Police Officers in general tend to stay in the same old rut with flashlights, ie. Surefire, Streamlight, etc... is that these lights have holsters for a duty belt. If I can't find a suitable holster for the RRT-2 then I am leaning toward the JET-III M as it does have a clip.

I know this is a lot of info, but what do you think of these lights? What lights am I leaving out that deserve consideration? and does anyone know of a holster for the RRT-2?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Best Lights For A Firefighter

neal71 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:38:56 GMT

My father is a firefighter and I would like to get him a light for his helmet, since the city he works for does not supply helmet lights he does not have a backup and wont get one for himself. I would also like suggestions as to what would be the best light to clip on to his jacket as well. There are a lot of "firefighter" lights out there, but since number one, it is my father I do not want him carrying something into a burning building that is not going to stay on, and number two, I am a college student and I do not have a disposable income, I would like to know what you all think would be the best lights that are "affordable". Really all suggestions are welcomed since I really enjoy looking at and researching flashlights.

If anyone is wanting to sell any lights that would fit the applications mentioned above, please PM me and I will get back to you as soon as possible.

Spotlight suggestions - first time poster

Mark Wo — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:35:20 GMT

Wow, I never knew there were so many options for spotlights.

I'm in a bind and could use some help. I started reading the posts here and was quickly overwhelmed. HID, ballast mods, Xenon, etc....

Here's my situation. I had a spotlight that worked well for what I use it for - finding my way to my duck hunting spot. I rarely, if ever, hunt large bodies of water nor do I cross them. I hunt smaller water and mostly small streams and rivers. I would say my average yards of illumination is 75 and this could go up to 150 yards or so. I don't need to be able to read a book at 500 yards or anything.

I broke my old Vector spotlight that claimed 1MCP. It had a ramp up trigger where with each pull it went to the next higher level - I hated this feature by the way. It also had a nice light on the side with a seperate switch that was night for area illumination. Here is a link to the old unit

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...9524_200029524

I loved the size and weight of this unit and the fact that it had a nice sturdy aluminum body. The light wouldn't last long and I needed to recharge it after every hunt but it was workable.

I'm looking for something with a similar form factor regarding size as I loved the feel of the old light. If possible, even smaller would be better. If an LED spotlight can provide a similar amount of "light output" of the old Vector, that would be great. I don't care if the color of the light is 5500 K or 3500K as 'warmness" doesn't matter too much to me.

In searching, I came across this spotlight. Anyone know anything about it? It has a high customer rating but one never knows what the customer's expectation is when purchasing. Walking the dog at night or search and rescue at sea.

Thor/Cyclops Sirius 9-Watt LED Spotlight

Found it here:

http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/te...set=ISO-8859-1

I think this describes my situation. Any insight and opinions are greatly appreciated.

Mark

What is your longest/farthest throwing light?

BlueBeam22 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:39:19 GMT

Mine is a 5MW green laser. It out throws even my large reflectored 35W HID spotlights. Just very curious to know what your absolute best thrower is; it can be any kind, form factor or size of light. This has nothing to do with brightness/overall output, just throw.

Btw, if there has been a thread on this before, please let me know. I have done extensive searching and could not find one. Thanks. :)

RCR123 - I am all mixed up

kestak — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:31:36 GMT

Greetings,

I am reading since a little while here and I AM LOST.

I got it that for my AA the Lacrosse 9009 and Eneloop or Rayovac Hybrids are the way to go. Yay! I even discovered you can put an AA into a spacer and it becomes compatible with flashlights using D batteries.This problem solved.

------
I have a simple question that maybe someone can answer:

I bought an ATN night vision rifle scope that uses 2 CR123 batteries. I want to use rechargeable batteries instead of normal ones (if possible).

I read about explosions, overheating, batteries damaging the electronic, protected unprotected circuits, etc...

What charger and battery do you recommend/can I use?

Thank you

fenix ld01 with xp-e r2

superpila — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 10:42:05 GMT

I don't know if this had been posted already but it seems like Fenix updated LD01 with XP-E r2.
http://www.4sevens.com/product_info.php?products_id=639

Triple XP-G in Surefire KL4

DaFABRICATA — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:30:33 GMT

I had a nice big write up and lost it all!!....F-it! :rant::rant::banghead::ohgeez::scowl:
The last few days have tested my temper...time for bed for the next 76 hours...:shakehead

I'll update this thread tomorrow with details.:scowl:

UPDATE:

A 20mm triple XP-G board was used with the 6 degree optics that I was able to get from R@ndom (Thanks!)
A heatsink was turned down to size that I bought a while back from Mirage Man (Thanks!)
Since I don't have a lathe, I used my drill press with some files and sandpaper to get it to the right size..
A Blue Shark running at full was used to drive the emitters.
The KL4 was already bored out to fit a different reflector for use with an MC-E that I had in there for a while.
I figured it would be a perfect host for this mod since most of the hard work was already done.
The beam is a lot more concentrated than the Quad XP-G using the 4 x McR10 reflectors..as expected.
Overall I'm happy with the results and like how much light this tiny head puts out.

Triple XP-G KL4

Quad XP-G / McR10 Pr-T

Best type of glass for under saltwater use??

lightime — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:17:21 GMT

I am building some small 316L stainless steel enclosures that will house cameras which will be semi-permanently used under saltwater. I will be using a 50mm diameter x 2mm thick lens but I am not sure what "type" of glass I should go with. I am looking at Borosilicate and Quartz but I am not sure which will be best or if there is another type I should look at.

Any ideas or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

Best AA light for Alkaline Batteries

kimck99 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:48:45 GMT

Hi,

I am looking for an AA (preferably 1xAA but will consider 2xAA) flashlight that will perform well with alkaline battery. This will be as a gift and I know that the user does not have Nimh batteries. Also, the cost of Lithium disposables would be a bit to high for a regular user.

The price point I am looking at is under $30. Any suggestions?

Thanks

Advice for a new AA light for outdoor and hiking

Phaselock — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 08:10:23 GMT

I need a new reliable AA flashlight for outdoor and hiking. I have previously used Fenix, but want to try something new. Both Nitecore D10 and Jetbeam jet-I pro v3 are interesting lights - Which do you think is best for my usage? Are there any other lights which is more suited?

Thanks!

Which RCR123A charger?

George1 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 07:30:04 GMT

I have a Nitecore EX10 R2 inbound and want to get a charger so that I can use RCR 123A's as well as primaries. What about the Ultrafire WF138 charger? What about AW's protected R123A's? I am new to recharables, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

Best AA Lithium Battery

payj — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:34:55 GMT

I am looking for the longest, best performing non-rechargeable AA battery. I heard Energizer Ultimate Lithium's are the best? Is that correct? If not please let me know what outperforms these. Thx

M3T beamshot comparison? [3xcr123A vs 2x17500]

Illum — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:28:52 GMT

can anyone post the output difference between the MN15 driven by 3xcr123A compared to MN15s driven by 1x17500s?

What reflector /lens and batterie for a HID

Isthereanybodyoutthere — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:02:08 GMT

What reflector /lens and batterie for a HID

I bought a Hid set ,and plan to mod /build a HID spot/flash light

The small spotlights most often has a 6volt 4ah lead battery inside

But no room for the hid ballast
been thinking about using some 18650 and make a removable pack
should i use protected (might give start problems )
Will charge them on my standard 139 charger from XX store (two at the time

the ballast can handle 16 volt ,and is suposed to work down to 9 volt

4x4,2=16,8,but will sag under load so no problem

i have tested 4x18650protected ,and they start up and stops
Most likely the protection kicks in

using 4x 4,2 volt will draw less amp than 3x4,2 volt

i would use 4x 2paralel(or 3paralel) =16,8volt
Or 3x3paralel (or 4paralel)=12,6volt

but if i use unprotected and 4x4,2volt ,i can run the cells down to 2,25volt and still have the 9 volt
That would NOT be good for the cells

using 3x4,2=12,6,the light would stop working at 3,3volt pr cell

modding a existing spotlight will be done

but would like to try to build one up from scratch

the reflector in most HIDS i have seen is BIG to give a good throw

but is there a reflector lens combo that is around 3,5 inches that gives good throw ,spill is not needed,but the spill should not just be wasted

LED light suggestions.

TapouT — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:53:54 GMT

I currently have an older Rayovac 1 watt and just ordered a SacredFire $14 (after shipping) Cree LED light with a Cree XR-C (claims 200 lumens, sure) to test out. It takes 3 AAA's batteries in a holder. wish I didnt have to wait 5 months to get the 1.6volt Powergenix batteries though!

I wanted suggestions on a cheaper but good light for long throw to have a nice spot beam or adjustable beam. I looked at some on ebay for $21 that cliamed 275 lumem even though I know thats false. they have a fisheye lens and Cree XR-E 7090 Q5 LED. I almost ordered it until someone who bought a few different ones told me it wasnt as bright as one of the 200 lumen lights the guy sells. I liked the focusable lens though so I could have flood and spot both. But will it get decent range, I dont know.

I'm not sure if I should mod a light or where to start for affordable prices.

I need a rescue!

saltytri — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:52:46 GMT

Help!! :o :o

Here's a little 1xAA light I made out of 416 stainless. To turn the deep grooves in the body, I screwed the head onto the body and put the head in the chuck. Some of you are already shaking your heads, right? So, now the threads are seized. I can still use the light but it just ain't right to have it screwed up, so to speak.

I've tried holding the body in an aluminum jawed vise and grabbing the head with a clamp wrench. The head didn't budge.

Any bright ideas?

withdrawn

chipwillis — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:35:05 GMT

Withdrawn

Question Regarding SF use with AW RCR123A's and AW 18650

FearlessNKY — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 04:16:11 GMT

Can anyone tell me when using AW RCR123A's or AW 18650's with a SF 6PL with a Malkoff M60L, does the light dim as the batteries charge is used up, or does it cut off completely all of a sudden?

(I've used some protected RCR123A's 3Volt with a SF G2L, and while it works well, I hate that the light cut out when the charge drops.)

I thank you in advance for your info!

Mike

Are these real HIR 9012 bulbs or fakers?

lght1 — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:58:59 GMT

Hi

I saw these on the large auction site.

Are they real HIR bulbs?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33710

What size o-ring for SF C/P series

Tessaiga — Fri, 20 Nov 2009 03:41:52 GMT

Per title... what is the size of the O-ring that goes onto the tailcap screw thread area on the body and the size that goes onto the bezel screw thread area on the body... in mm please?

Thanks