simbad
Enlightened
KenBar said:
I carry my HDS like this, two o-rings, paracord, mini-clip attached to a belt loop and hanging into the back pocket.
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First Impressions of HDS U60 & Quirks/Qs/Comments
- Thread starter aceo07
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I carry my HDS like this, two o-rings, paracord, mini-clip attached to a belt loop and hanging into the back pocket.
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
aceo07:
You can do that.
select the brightness to constant at 60, tur it off, go to the menu , and turn off the force setting and then turn it back on, play with it and then you can start at the max or the other 3.
Nick
You can do that.
select the brightness to constant at 60, tur it off, go to the menu , and turn off the force setting and then turn it back on, play with it and then you can start at the max or the other 3.
Nick
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aceo07
Enlightened
270winchester said:
That's what I'm trying to avoid. I want to have momentary max brightness from off state regardless of what default startup brightness is.
I don't always need max brightness, so I don't want use it each time I turn on the light. However, if it were possible to go to get max brightness by pressing and holding the button (from off state) then it'd be great.
270winchester
Flashlight Enthusiast
Then I suggest you write Henry and let him know. The problem of your request is that then the light wouldn't be able to use normal momentary on a lower level, something that is important to most users. Perhaps a new feature in the light is needed, something like a force-momentary-brightness? But as of now I believe you are out of luck.
Nick
Nick
aceo07
Enlightened
270winchester said:
Oh yea. I'm aware of what the HDS EDC U60 can do.
It was merely ideas that popped into my head as I use the flashlight.
simbad
Enlightened
Ken, PM sent.
aceo07
Enlightened
Another other question:
Since the HDS EDC flashlights store the settings, how long does it store the settings when the battery has been taken out.
Since the HDS EDC flashlights store the settings, how long does it store the settings when the battery has been taken out.
In another thread, I suggested that you could probably make rubber "armor" for your EDC by taking the SF F0x beamshapers and push the lens out. Well, I got my U85 today and it works just fine.
One warning - While the F05 filter (red) works fine, the F06 filter (blue) that SF shipped me is not the same as the one pictured on their web site. It was a tip-off style. So, don't use the F06 if you are trying to do this -- use the F05.
Also, the tailcap button on mine is (almost) flush so I don't have a stand-on-tail problem, but for those who have the domed button, it appears this would solve the problem.
Edit: Also, you might be able to use an F04 beamshaper or F05 filter on the tailcap for a mechanical lock out protection and storage for the beamshaper.
-john
John's HDS Gallery
One warning - While the F05 filter (red) works fine, the F06 filter (blue) that SF shipped me is not the same as the one pictured on their web site. It was a tip-off style. So, don't use the F06 if you are trying to do this -- use the F05.
Also, the tailcap button on mine is (almost) flush so I don't have a stand-on-tail problem, but for those who have the domed button, it appears this would solve the problem.
Edit: Also, you might be able to use an F04 beamshaper or F05 filter on the tailcap for a mechanical lock out protection and storage for the beamshaper.
-john
John's HDS Gallery
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sbebenelli
Enlightened
I've got a EDC Basic and have a question about the Ultimate. Can it be programed so that the brightest setting be the next one after the primary. Meaning double click would produce the brightest setting rather than triple click and press?
aceo07
Enlightened
sbebenelli said:
Yes. With the Ultimate edition flashlight, you can change any of the 4 settings to be any brightness level.
luxlover
Banned
Since both the Primary and Secondary brightness levels are activated by the same double-click, going from Primary to Secondary, or Secondary to Primary is easy. If one is in Primary, goes to either Maximum or Minimum, and then does a double-click, the light will return to Primary. If the level before going to Maximum or Minimum was Secondary, then a double-click will get it back to Secondary. The problem with assigning the highest brightness level to Secondary is that if you are in Primary before you go to Maximum or Minimum, and you do a double-click, then you will return to Primary. It sounds like you would like to be able to simply double-click to go to the brightest level, instead of double-click press. The only way a double-click will get you to the brightest level when assigned to Secondary, is if you always return the light to Secondary before you go to either Maximum or Minimum. Remember that the light will return to the previous of the two levels, Primary or Secondary), when you double-click from either of the other two levels.sbebenelli said:
If you are trying to save on clicks/presses, assigning the light's brightest level to Secondary will make you more work than it is worth. A solution to this would be to assign the brightest level to the Minimum level, and do a triple-click everytime you want the brightest level. A triple-click requires no special timing, as does a double-click press. You can assign the brightness level that used to be assigned to Minimum, to either Primary or Maximum.
You can see that the four levels are just names. Since one can assign any brightness level to any named level, one can customize a light for the brightness desired, in conjunction with the number of button strokes desired.
***By the way, there is no need to do a triple-click press on the light, although no harm will come to it if you do. A double-click press is all that is needed to latch the Maximum level.
Ok, I've updated the gallery with some more pictures, mostly beamshots. All beamshots were taken with:
Canon G2
ISO 50
White balance = incandecent
1/4 sec.
F2.0
Because the WB is set to incandecent, the E2e appears white and the LEDs appear blue in the pictures. In real life the E2e appears yellow, the U85 looks more or less white and the L1 looks slightly violet.
I didn't bother to make sure the batteries in the E2e and L1 were never-used-fresh, but the E2e was rarely used before this matchup and the L1 was really only included for beam shape.
Picture quality was reduced somewhat to make them more web friendly.
The wall is not white. It is sort of a goldish tan.
One thing is sure... The HDS beam shape is very configurable.
I highly recommend getting the lens kit even if you think you are going to like the standard lens. I also highly recommend getting one of the SF F04 beamshapers. For close up work it can't be beat.
At this point, I'm kind of wishing for a diffuser that is milder than the HDS mild diffuser. Maybe some Scotch tape or Writeright (sp?). Probably Writeright -- tape is probably too much. I think the E2e has a smoother hotspot but the HDS has better side spill (notice how much more you can see outside of the hotspot on the HDS). The tape might dial in the hotspot and give you the best of both worlds.
AWs beamshaper makes the hotspot itself more useable, but seems to make the rolloff sharper which I don't prefer. However, for those who want to preserve throw, but make the hotspot a bit bigger and less intense, this might just be the ticket.
I didn't take any pictures, but outdoor the standard Ultraclear lens and the SF E2e are fairly well matched. Lighting up the top of the big trees in my backyard, they seemed very similar with the exception of the tint. ( It should be noted that the difference in tint makes these lights look very different when illuminating plants. )
Use of even the mild diffuser kills the throw at any significant distance.
Lighting up mixed building/folliage, again the E2e and U85 w/Ultraclear seemed to provide similar amounts of light and illuminated the specific target similarly (with exception of tint), but the side spills are different. The U85 provides more side spill, but the E2e seems to make the roll-off between the hotspot and the spill a bit more smoothly.
It's kind of funny actually. The beams feel quite a bit different, but when you look at them carefully, it seems the differences are actually fairly subtle.
In the end, I think I'm willing to say the U85 is a full-on match for the E2e. Considering it is a multi level light, that does pretty much make it the Ultimate EDC. Just remember to throw a F04 in your pocket.
Edit: I went ahead and tried Scotch tape. The stuff I have in the house is the opaque looking stuff. As predicted it diffuses fairly heavily. I added it to the composite beamshot.
Note I used a different method to reduce the Scotch tape beamshot for inclusion in the composite. The result is that the spill looks smoother than the other beamshots, but this is just an artifact of the different methods of reduction.
-john
Canon G2
ISO 50
White balance = incandecent
1/4 sec.
F2.0
Because the WB is set to incandecent, the E2e appears white and the LEDs appear blue in the pictures. In real life the E2e appears yellow, the U85 looks more or less white and the L1 looks slightly violet.
I didn't bother to make sure the batteries in the E2e and L1 were never-used-fresh, but the E2e was rarely used before this matchup and the L1 was really only included for beam shape.
Picture quality was reduced somewhat to make them more web friendly.
The wall is not white. It is sort of a goldish tan.
One thing is sure... The HDS beam shape is very configurable.
I highly recommend getting the lens kit even if you think you are going to like the standard lens. I also highly recommend getting one of the SF F04 beamshapers. For close up work it can't be beat.
At this point, I'm kind of wishing for a diffuser that is milder than the HDS mild diffuser. Maybe some Scotch tape or Writeright (sp?). Probably Writeright -- tape is probably too much. I think the E2e has a smoother hotspot but the HDS has better side spill (notice how much more you can see outside of the hotspot on the HDS). The tape might dial in the hotspot and give you the best of both worlds.
AWs beamshaper makes the hotspot itself more useable, but seems to make the rolloff sharper which I don't prefer. However, for those who want to preserve throw, but make the hotspot a bit bigger and less intense, this might just be the ticket.
I didn't take any pictures, but outdoor the standard Ultraclear lens and the SF E2e are fairly well matched. Lighting up the top of the big trees in my backyard, they seemed very similar with the exception of the tint. ( It should be noted that the difference in tint makes these lights look very different when illuminating plants. )
Use of even the mild diffuser kills the throw at any significant distance.
Lighting up mixed building/folliage, again the E2e and U85 w/Ultraclear seemed to provide similar amounts of light and illuminated the specific target similarly (with exception of tint), but the side spills are different. The U85 provides more side spill, but the E2e seems to make the roll-off between the hotspot and the spill a bit more smoothly.
It's kind of funny actually. The beams feel quite a bit different, but when you look at them carefully, it seems the differences are actually fairly subtle.
In the end, I think I'm willing to say the U85 is a full-on match for the E2e. Considering it is a multi level light, that does pretty much make it the Ultimate EDC.
Just remember to throw a F04 in your pocket.Edit: I went ahead and tried Scotch tape. The stuff I have in the house is the opaque looking stuff. As predicted it diffuses fairly heavily. I added it to the composite beamshot.
Note I used a different method to reduce the Scotch tape beamshot for inclusion in the composite. The result is that the spill looks smoother than the other beamshots, but this is just an artifact of the different methods of reduction.
-john
John N said:
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Nice shots! Thanks for taking them.
How does the HDS mild diffuser attach? Does it replace the lens, attach to it, go under it, etc?
How does the HDS mild diffuser attach? Does it replace the lens, attach to it, go under it, etc?
Sean said:
It goes under it. As others have suggested, it appears Henry has thought through every detail. If you look at the picture w/o the lens, you'll see the front of the reflector has a little ledge, surrounded by the rubber o-ring:
The diffuser is very thin (left most):
Left to right: Mild diffuser, Ultraclear lens, Polycarbinate lens, Ultraclear lens (yes, you get one with the light and another in the lens kit).
It fits on top of the ledge, but inside the o-ring. It is thin enough that it does not rise above the o-ring as far as I can tell. Then the lens sits on top of the o-ring and the retaining ring holds it all in place.
Slick, eh?
-john
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Cool.
