Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium)

Archangel wrote: "There's obviously no coating - it certainly *seems* like glass."

Thanks for the confirmation -
it does seem like glass on my one sample of the plain Non-P(remium) L1.

with hindsight, now that we've confirmed the lens on the plain Non-P(remium) is glass - the specs on the Fenix website
"Ultra Clear Lens with special coating (premium model)"
becomes clearer -
ie: lens on all models are UCL -
but only the P(remium) models have AR coating.

I recall you were interested in particular about the possibility of a LDF (Light Diffusing Filter) option being made available for the Fenix L1 from flashlightlens.com -
now that you have more than one sample, is there something that's worth diffusing about the Fenix L1 beam?

Also since you mentioned you have the Silver L1 (Non-Premium) - these are version 2.0 right?
How does the v2.0 plain L1 compare with your sample of the Fenix L1P (Premium model) v2.5(?) in terms of light output, please?

Thanks

Archangel said:

UnknownVT wrote: "Does the lens on the Non-Premium plain L1 look/feel like glass to you?


There's obviously no coating - note to Fenix: put the coating on the *inside* (unless both sides are coated, then never mind) - and i'm not about to cut it, but yeah, it certainly *seems* like glass.

Click to expand...

L1 is plain glass
L1P is AR coated (both sides - I just checked)

Thanks for the review and beamshots. It's posts like yours that makes these forums great.

Is there a final word on if lithiums are safe to use in these lights? I thought I heard somewhere on here that lithiums were safe, but the instructions that came with my L1P specificly says to only use alkalines or NiMH's.

Crossbar wrote:"Is there a final word on if lithiums are safe to use in these lights?"

Thank you for the kind words - 4sevens probably is the best for the definitive word on this.

However I believe that the 1.5V rated Energizer AA Lithiums are OK -
but the 3V AA-sized Lithiums are a definite NO-NO.

So it throws like a Q3, and it runs off of a regular AA... WOW! Now, can anyone get a comparison/beamshot of the L1 on a regular duracell, energizer, or Rayovac AA compared to a Q3 with a fresh SF 123 please?

-David

OK, here's a comparison of a QIII and Fenix L1P v2.5 with a fresh Duracell alkaline. The conditions were identical to those in the beamshots I posted earlier in this thread.



And here's a comparison of a QIII (fresh SF-123), and a Fenix L1P v2.5 with a Duracell alkaline and Energizer 2500mAH NiMH. Shots were taken about 8 feet away from the shrub. The top left image is a reference image, depicting the scene using the camera's flash. Sorry for the blurriness, I took these without a tripod.



Grrr... edited to fix the link to the images...

:goodjob: on the beamshot H.O.P!!
Really love the Q3 overall output!

UnknownVT . . .

I recall you were interested in particular about the possibility of a LDF (Light Diffusing Filter) option being made available for the Fenix L1 from flashlightlens.com - now that you have more than one sample, is there something that's worth diffusing about the Fenix beam?
>>>
I have four samples (3xL1v2, L1Pv2.5) and as far as i'm concerned they all suffer from the same issue: too small hot spot / corona for a light that will only be used at close distances. Through personal experience, i find a McKinley to be more useful. And in an attempt to derail the inevitable interjection from other parties, yes, it uses a 123, but a pocket light is a pocket light regardless of whether it runs on NiMH, li-ion or your ego.

How does the v2.0 plain L1 compare with your sample of the Fenix L1 v2.5? in terms of light output, please?
>>>
I used the same PowerEx 2500mAh NIMH for all runs.

cheapo wrote: "Now, can anyone get a comparison/beamshot of the L1 on a regular duracell, energizer, or Rayovac AA compared to a Q3 with a fresh SF 123 please?"

Although it may seem that the well known battery names are somehow "premium" and store own brands (no matter how reputable) are somehow inferior - this is exactly what the big battery comnpanies would like us to think -
and it is far from the truth -
as people who have done comparison tests have shown.

Please take a look at this Sticky thread:

Alkaline Battery Shoot Out

The big names were not necessarily the best (ref: AA 0.5A chart) in total capacity (runtime) or initial voltage.

All the alkaline AA batteries had very similar initial voltages and their behavior over the first few minutes to half hour were also very similar - to the point where I would say there was not any perceivable practical difference.

My beamshots were all done on fresh alkalines from an admittedly store own brand (but reputable, and I've had good performance from them) the "tests" only lasted a few minutes to half an hour at the most, where the battery behavior for all practical purposes would be identical to any other alkaline AA from Duracell, Energizer or Ray-o-Vac -
there would be far more variation in the sample of the Luxeon I LED in my Fenix L1 to any other Fenix L1(P) than any difference from the battery used - as long as the battery was fresh - which mine was, as the later open circuit voltage and current draw readings show.

The same applies to CR123 batteries

123 Battery Shoot Out

even though there may be larger variations - I used a fresh Panasonic CR123 - again all the behavior in the first few minutes to half hour hardly makes any practical difference.

Archangel wrote: "I used the same PowerEx 2500mAh NIMH for all runs."

Thank you very much for the runtime graph.

In terms of initial output intensity I was surprised at the wide variation between the 3x L1 v2.0.

Using your initial reading on the chart - I did some rough calculations of the L1 v2.0 compared to the intensity of your L1P v2.5
coming up with approximately
#1 = 70%
#2 = 58%
#3 = 41%


L1 v2.0 #2 would seem the closest to the expected ratio of
L1P v2.5 = 46 lumens to L1 v2.0 = 28 lumens.

L1 v2.0 #3 seems very low at 41% - if the L1P v2.5 = 46 lumens then L1 v2.0 #3 would probably be about 19 lumens(?)

L1 v2.0 #1 in comparison would be about 32 lumens.

The Fenix L1 v2.5 (non-Premium) is advertized/rated at 38 lumens (ie: should be about 83% of the L1P v2.5)

UnknownVT said:

.........L1 v2.0 #2 would seem the closest to the expected ratio of
L1P v2.5 = 46 lumens to L1 v2.0 = 28 lumens.

L1 v2.0 #3 seems very low at 41% - if the L1P v2.5 = 46 lumens then L1 v2.0 #3 would probably be about 19 lumens(?)

L1 v2.0 #1 in comparison would be about 32 lumens.

The Fenix L1 v2.5 (non-Premium) is advertized/rated at 38 lumens (ie: should be about 83% of the L1P v2.5)

Click to expand...

I do not believe L1P v2.5 is more then 25-30 lumens , at least to my eyes. I have four L1p v2.5 and one L1 v2.0 . Compared with HDS EDC U60 they are somewhere between level 4 and 3(21-30 lumens) . L1 v2.0 seems to me like 10% dimmer.... Or I could have on helluva light u60 , 80-90 lumens ?? ...I´ll take outside beamshots and I´ll post here.

Thank you for the comparison pics. The fenix L1 beam looks narrow. Do you find it adequate for indoor and outdoor use? Looks like the Q3 beam is more useful as an EDC but prefer a AA flashlight and HA3.



http://nbox00.tripod.com

m209 said:

Thank you for the comparison pics. The fenix L1 beam looks narrow. Do you find it adequate for indoor and outdoor use? Looks like the Q3 beam is more useful as an EDC but prefer a AA flashlight and HA3.



http://nbox00.tripod.com

Click to expand...

I had the same question before I got my L1P2.5. After carrying it side by side with my Q3 for two days, I have concluded L1P has a more useful beam, it noticeably out throw my Q3 and have a slightly noticeable higher overall output (by bouncing light off the ceiling). The L1p also has a wider (10~20%) corona (side spill) and is as bright as that of my Q3's, to my eyes anyway. Both lights vary in output from light to light so YMMV. I agree with another poster that the typical output of L1P 2.5 falls between 25 and 30 lumens, which is not bad at all.

lexina wrote: "fenix can operate in Both reverse click mode and twist mode (by first clicking ON and then twisting back the tail cap). From this position, you can either twist it back on or push the tail cap for momentary on.
my comments only apply to a L1P v2.5. I do not have any other version and am not sure if the same applies to them."

This is a great hint thank you -
I can confirm this works well with my sample of the Non-P(remium) Fenix L1 v2.5 as the threads are anodized and non-conductive - the electrical contact(s) are made via the body tube end(s) (as noted in my opening post).

I found pressing more on the rim/edge of the tailcap gave me better control and less inconsistent contact (bearing in mind the actual clicky is a momentary OFF - even though it is a bit stiff so may not be that prone to counter this unofficial momentary ON aspect).

The threads on the Fenix are smooth and "snug" - yet this momentary ON feature works really well - this shows that (excessive) play and looseness in the tailcap fit and threads is not necessary (as in both my samples of the new "Xnova" 8 )

However once the tailcap is backed off on the Fenix - there will be some battery rattle - easily cured, with the hint I got from the CMG Infinity Ultra(-G), by wrapping a small Post-It around the battery.

Speaking of twist mode, my silver (L1) turns easier than my HA (L1P).

One other minor bit of information about the Fenix:

When I got home this evening, my wife informed me that my son had been playing with one of my Fenixes today, and that it no longer worked.

I checked that the head and tailcap were screwed on tightly. They were fine. I checked the switch assembly in the tailcap, and it was not loose. No rattles to suggest internal damage. Then it dawned on me to check the battery. Sure enough, my boy had taken out the battery in put it in backwards, Inova-style.

"Crap!" I thought. "What if this thing isn't reverse-polarity protected?"

Whew. The Fenix lit up after turning the battery around.

I know it's not an earth-shattering revelation, and that polarity protection should be standard for modern flashlights. All the same, if you've ever let the magic smoke out of an EverLED (or some other old-fashioned non-protected LED light), you'll understand my sense of relief.

That is a cool idea for the momentary on. I was wondering the same thing myself.

lexina said:

You will be glad to know that the fenix can operate in Both reverse click mode and twist mode (by first clicking ON and then twisting back the tail cap). From this position, you can either twist it back on or push the tail cap for momentary on.

my comments only apply to a L1P v2.5. I do not have any other version and am not sure if the same applies to them.

Click to expand...

On my L1P v2.5, I cannot do the momentary on after twisting the tailcap until the light turns off. there is no give in the threads.

Hi Vincent,

I have been following your posts for some months.

I bought the S1801, my wife confiscated it. She used it while she was on Galveston Island during the recenct hurricane. I was very worried, but she was alright.

My wife is half Japanese and half Irish.

I hsve just go back an I am vervy tired.

Steve

justsomeguy wrote: "I bought the S1801, my wife confiscated it. She used it while she was on Galveston Island during the recenct hurricane. I was very worried, but she was alright."

I like(d) this story, thanks for sharing and well worth repeating (see #9 ) - especially the new use of the term "confiscated"

This only goes to show that you and your wife both know good flashlights......

Did the single CR123 battery last throughout all her usage - or did she have to change batteries?
(I assume like the good husband, you gave her spares to carry?)
- if she had to change batteries, roughly how long did the CR123 seem to last in the S1801 ?