0.5w 1AA - AdvancedMart LED-005S

OK what might be (IMHO) almost as good as the fabulous Fenix L1 v2.5, but at 1/2 to 1/3 the price?

I have an infatuation for single celled lights and top of my list goes the AA battery. So to find a single AA battery 0.5watt flashlight that has good form factor and remains small - well..... is a FIND.

Tucked in on their 1/2watt page is this AdvancedMart model # LED-005S - it's shown in shiney silver on that page - but I noticed there is a choice of black too. Normally I prefer not to get black flashlights - but the shiney silver ws a bit too "gaudy" for my tastes -
so black it was - shown here with its supplied pouch -


Size comparison -


Heads view -


vs. Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium)


vs. River Rock 0.5w 2AAA

(note Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) would be similar
see the direct side-by-side comparison beamshots in the links)

vs. the classic CMG Ultra-G


One has to be careful looking at these comparison beamshots - even though the beams are in the same picture side-by-side and have received the exact same exposure, focus, scaling, color balance etc. - the failing is the limited dynamic range of the camera (or even film) the hotspots are WAY brighter and grossly over exposed -so do not show the difference in brightness - so the dimmer light always seem brighter than it is in the normal exposure. I use the normal exposure really to compare the beam characteristics and the vital side-spill/corona.

The -2 Stops Underexposed beamshot is an attempt to show the differences in brightness - again the hotspots are still somewhat grossly overexposed - so it is still not a very good indication of the difference in hotspot brightness - although in the comparison between the AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AA and the CMG Ultra-G one can just see the Ultra-G's hotspot is noticably dimmer - showing its color artifacts.

Using all these lights at closer distances (under 9feet) they are all still somewhat "comparable" - yes, one can see that the Fenix is quite a bit brighter than the Ultra-G (for this extreme example I'd be using under 6feet) and so it should be - but to me it's not quite to the point of being "blown away" - perhaps I just don't like to talk like that - however going 10feet and beyond then the differences becomes a lot more noticable.

One thing I noticed was that the light did a slight flickering during the beamshots - even though I had taken the time to scrape and clean the tailcap threads and those on the body tube, then lightly lubed the threads before the tests. The threads seemed somewhat "crude" with black anodization (or is it paint**?) in them - note the threads are critical as this is where the electrical contact is made.
This is a pic of the threads even after scraping/cleaning


However some whacking/shock of the light cured the slight flicker.

Notice how thin the body tube is at the threads - it kind of looks like the material used in the 1LED 1xAAA "clone"? - (that's why I thought it might be black paint** above) although the AdvancedMart page does spec it as aluminum. I tried a strong magnet - and unlike the AAA clone, this body tube shows no signs of magnetism - this light does feel very light without the battery - perhaps it is some (strong) aluminum alloy?

Anyway because of the thinner tube this light measures 18mm diameter compared to the 20mm of the Fenix - it looks and feels slimmer. It is actually slimmer than even the River Rock 2AA or the Nuwai 1AAA heads (both 19mm).

That's why I like this light for under $19 shipped (better price for 2, I now regret not buying two straight off) - it is slimmer and lighter than the Fenix - not as bright but it is not put to shame, the tint again is not as good as the Fenix - but surpringly better than either the River Rock or Nuwai 0.5watts....

For the price there's very little not to like for a good form factor single AA light.

EDIT - the tailcap switch is a reverse clicky - one needs to push it well into its recess/hole before the light is switched on.
Being new to me, occassionally I still manage not to quite switch it on - and I don't have very wide thumbs/fingers. I have to remember to use the tip of my thumb to activate this light. In some ways I like this as it would be very unlikely that the light would be switch on accidentally.


EDIT2 - mention should be made for the outstanding service I received from AdvancedMart.com - I order this light on-line late Wednesday night Nov/30 like nearly midnight - got an acknowledgement when I logged in the next morning and found it was shipped that day - and I received it today - Sat Dec/3 - I used the first class USPS shipping which was only $2.50... some praise has to go to the USPS too.

Sorry...didn't realize there was a 1xAA version!

Roy wrote: "Here's my runtime plot for this little puppy...6h 22m on Li battery"

That's just way too fast Roy :bow:
I hadn't even finished post-editting/correcting all my typos yet.....:huh:

However - I think that's a CR2 lithium battery in the plot - so is the runtime plot for the AdvancedMart LED-050CR2) 1 x CR2 light that uses 1x CR2?

QuickBeam over at FlashlightReviews.com has reviewed this 0.5w 1AA light too -
his runtimes to 50% were -

6hours 3mins for Alkaline AA
8hours 57mins for Lithium AA

sorry 'bout that!

Didn't realise there was a 1xAA version.....need to take some reading lessons!!!

Roy wrote: "sorry 'bout that!
Didn't realise there was a 1xAA version"

That really is not a problem -
you're just so quick, helpful and informative -
a real model of what I think a CPF'er should be......

Looking closely at the tailcap switch and knurling on the body, perhaps even the keyring attachment -
this kind of looks like the style of those LED Lensers(?)
So is this a copy of the style or is this actually the manufacturer of some of those LED Lensers?

I don't think that the CR2 mdl is aluminum....its pretty heavy. Magnets don't stick to it though...it might be stainless steel. If it's Al, it must some alloy. If you take the battery out and hit the tube with something hard, it rings like a bell!

Roy wrote: "I don't think that the CR2 mdl is aluminum....its pretty heavy. Magnets don't stick to it though...it might be stainless steel. If it's Al, it must some alloy."

the page on AdvancedMart LED-050CR2) 1 x CR2 light says it's chromed brass.

most stainless steels are actually magnetic because of their mainly iron/ferrite content -
there is a special class of specially heat treated stainless steels that do not exhibit magnetism - they're called "austenitic" stainless steels

Very nice write-up ... thanx for the work! :thumbsup:
bernie

If I was into modding it would be tempting to try a luxeon in that light, use the .5watt LED in a dorcy 1AAA, but that would depend on the driver used if it had the power to drive a higher output LED well.

For a mod. using a Luxeon the trouble is heat sinking. .5 Watt LED's use the leads to sink the heat.

Idly looking at this AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AA and comparing it with the Nuwai 0.5w - I noticed the die sizes seem to be different -

Looking more carefully at the heads view photo in the opening post - the AdvancedMart 0.5w LED die is definitely smaller than those of either the River Rock or Nuwai 0.5w LEDs.

This could also explain the different color tint (and focus) characteristics between this AdvancedMart 0.5w which is noticably less blue than those of the Nuwai 0.5w - which all seem very obviously blue tinted to me.

I have owned 3 of these lights since they came out, but I don't own any anymore. I loved the light when I first got it- as you said, they are smaller/lighter than the Fenix and the tint was very good with surprisingly bright output. I even found a rubber endcap that fit perfectly and allowed for candlemode without adding much bulk.

However! All 3 of my lights had flickering problems either from the start, or eventually. One crapped out all together. It's a major shame IMO, since I loved everything else about these lights, but the design of the switch obviously leaves much to be desired. Back when they came out several CPFers (all more technically knowledgeable than myself) troubleshot ways around this problem, but as far as I know, it was never fully resolved.

Solstice wrote: "However! All 3 of my lights had flickering problems either from the start, or eventually. One crapped out all together. It's a major shame IMO, since I loved everything else about these lights, but the design of the switch obviously leaves much to be desired. Back when they came out several CPFers (all more technically knowledgeable than myself) troubleshot ways around this problem, but as far as I know, it was never fully resolved."

Ouch, ouch, ouch! :mecry:

I do thank you very much Solstice for bringing this to our attention -
this is a real shame if these lights have an inherent problem with their switch or electrical contact.

Examining the light more closely I noticed that the +ve contact in the flashlight is actually just a solder blob - which obviously deforms with contact with the battery end - this could wear a dent that that then makes poorer contact with a battery that may have a different shaped +ve end.

Also being a mere solder blob - there may be some lack of "precision" in its positioning and/or size/shape that also could make a difference in contact.

I have not disassembled the tailcap switch - so I can't comment on its quality durability, or whether it is the cause of the flickering problem. I would be very grateful for any links/references to the discussion on this, thanks.

BUT the threads of the tailcap and body tube - which make critical electrical contact are not clean clear bare metal - there is some considerable amount of anodisation in between - and diligent scraping and cleaning has not done much to clean this up - another possibility of bad contact and even energy loss.

These are all points to be pretty concerned about - in a light that otherwise seems to be really good sized, form-factor, light and bright with good runtime on a single regular alkaline AA.

I guess only time will tell whether this light continues to do well - although the slight flickering I saw during my beamshots (even though I have not seen it again) is probably not such a good sign.

Thanks for the very valuable input.

I found the initial thread:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=78940&page=1&pp=30

You'll have to read/scan the whole thing as the posts about the flickering problems are scattered throughout. You'll notice that the thread ends with advancedmart saying they'll replace any light not working properly. This is a nice guarantee and advancedmart lives up to it- they are a very good dealer. The problem is that if indeed the light is inherently flawed by design, and its not constantly evident (often the light doesn't flicker- it is intermitent), a replacement that seems like it is working and then starts having problems isn't much of a solution. This is what happened with mine (first one flickered- got 2 more and then they both started flickering/one died.)

All I can tell you is to try some of the possible solutions listed in the thread and see if they work for you. If I had one of these working flawlessly, I might even be using it over the Fenix due to the lighter weight and nice shape in the pocket. They work great with e2 lithiums (amazingly light and brighter)!

Solstice wrote: "I found the initial thread:
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=78940&page=1&pp=30

You'll have to read/scan the whole thing as the posts about the flickering problems are scattered throughout. You'll notice that the thread ends with advancedmart saying they'll replace any light not working properly.
The problem is that if indeed the light is inherently flawed by design, and its not constantly evident (often the light doesn't flicker- it is intermitent), a replacement that seems like it is working and then starts having problems isn't much of a solution. This is what happened with mine (first one flickered- got 2 more and then they both started flickering/one died.)"


Thank you for finding the thread and all that valuable input.

I've read the entire thread - to save others some time - the flickering problem is not discussed until page 3 of the thread - as that was when the lights were first shipped to users -
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=78940&page=3&pp=30

Anyway I will bear all this in mind - so far mine hasn't flicker again - but it is nice to know that AdvancedMart says they'll stand by their products.

Are your silver ones more of a matte finish like grained (bead-blast) like?
or is it more like shiney (almost mirror polished) chrome?

For completeness I thought I'd do a direct side-by-side comparison with another interesting 1xAA light the 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New

Size ..................................................................................... Heads view

just for interest I also included the original Xnova 5 and an AA battery for size comparison.

vs. 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New


at closer distances the Xnova 8 New seemed brighter - but taking the distances further out one can see that the hotspot of the AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AA is more concentrated/intense - plus its side-spill still shows in the -2 stops underexposed shot.

Some current draw readings -

First a caveat - My DMM seems to give quite different current readings sometimes between the 10A and the 200mA scales - I have been told that this seems to be the case even on good and expensive Fluke DMM's. Nevertheless this does not inspire confidence in my readings - I'll just report them without comments - I used 2 alkaline AA batteries and 2x NiMH (1600mAh) rechargeables - they all are in good condition and as far as I can see they all seem as bright as each other - as control/comparison I've taken current draw readings as well for the Xnova 8 -

(A) = 10A scale
(B) = 200mA scale

Alkaline AA (Kroger) 1.53V
AdvM 0.5w = 0.17A (A) 121.8mA (B)
Xnova8 = 0.53A (A)

Alkaline AA (Tianqiu) 1.496V
AdvM 0.5w = 0.14A (A) 106.5mA (B)
Xnova8 = 0.35A (A)

NiMH rechargeable AA (1600mAh RayOVac) 1.372V
AdvM 0.5w = 0.14A (A) 103.3mA (B)
Xnova8 = 0.48A (A)

NiMH rechargeable AA (1600mAh RayOVac) 1.371V
AdvM 0.5w = 0.16A (A) 116.7mA (B)
Xnova8 = 0.45A (A)

UnknownVT...I had one of these in silver a while back (I gave it to my daughter to put in her purse), and I really liked it. Of all the .5W lights I've owned it was my favorite...the beam on mine was VERY white; not even a hint of blue! Mine initially had the flickering problem, but I stretched the spring in the tail cap a little, and the problem never reoccurred. Also, if you put a lithium AA in it the weight becomes a complete non-issue...VERY light! I'll be ordering another one in the near future. BTW, nice write-up!

PJD

I had some problems with the AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AA (LED-005S) - it started to flicker again and working at getting better contact, I did manage to get the flicker to go away - but I noticed that the light seemed dimmer than before.

As this -2 stops underexposed comparison beamshot with the Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H) shows -


I contacted John at AdvancedMart about this and he got me to return the light and sent me a replacement - this time it was in silver......



He also sent me an AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AAA in chromed Brass shown above.

I did a heads comparison in the opening post - but thought I'd show the new one with the 1AAA version -


The performance seems to be about the same as my first (black) one when it was working properly.

Some comparison beamshots to show this -

vs. Fenix L1 v2.5 (Non-Premium) 1watt Luxeon 1x AA


vs. Nuwai 0.5w 1AAA (TM-310H)


vs. 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New


Comparison with the chromed brass AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AAA (please note the positions are reversed in this beamshot - the 1AA is now on the right, and the 1AAA version is on the left)


I was somewhat disappointed with the flicker that developed and the UNreiablity of my first (black) one, and disturbed by the reports I've read.

This silver one seems to be pretty steady - I have not yet seen it flicker.

However, I remain pleased with the size and form factor of the light - and if reliable - its performance output, with reported long runtimes in the order of about 6hours

I will try and summarize some of my thoughts on the flicker and possible problems on the AdvancedMart 0.5w 1AA in a later post

The retaining screw in the head of the AdvancedMart 1AA gets loose and causes problems with the ground. The design isn't the best because of the mechanical conection for the only ground source the circuit has. Try cleaning the surfaces of both the circuit's ground and the retaining screw. The problem will be solved. The circuit itself is a perfectly reliable design, be rest assured that the mechanical connection is the fault.

I got three of these to share with friends and we're dissapointed with QC. Of the three that arrived, one had the flicker problem immediately out of the box. It was determined that the flicker was indeed caused by the circuit in the head having a poor intermittent ground. Since this discovery, one of the remaining two lights developed a switch problem stuck in the on position. the only thing i can think of is a faulty switch or that a piece of chroming got under the switch and is shorting it out. Anyway it's stuck in the on position. It could be worse right.? So one out of three here. 66.6% failure rate. The remaining light is so nice and useful that it's almost worth it. The runtime is no hype and with NIMH batts and at $15 each they are a steal. Just buy a bunch of them. One is bound to work. Better yet, get in on the AAA group buy and buy 20 of them. Even at the 66% failure rate you'd get a bunch of these lights at $2.50 each plus shipping.