greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
mossyoak said:
Did you try jamming it in with a pen? The ice forced part of the cap into the piston, and it takes a little force to get it seated properly.
Inova X1 Woes!
- Thread starter seaward
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Did you try jamming it in with a pen? The ice forced part of the cap into the piston, and it takes a little force to get it seated properly.
I may have found a solution to the flickering and intermittent behavior of the X1 switch.
I recently BSTed an X1 v1 (spot). It's a cool little flashlight. Stealthy, silent, and surprisingly bright. The HA 1xAA form feels nice in the hand too.
I too have experienced switch issues - not only with flickering when using the momentary switch, but in an attempt to remedy the problem by changing the battery, I've discovered that some batteries simply didn't work at all in the X1! In particular, a NiMH batt who's "tail" (negative) was slightly squashed in. I can only assume that the "nipple" in the middle of the "piston" in the X1's endcap never made contact with the battery. I think that either the nipple or the piston itself is too short so that contact with a battery becomes intermittent. I am uncertain of the purpose of the little "feet" near the perimeter of the piston nor whether they are conductive or not.
One of the several attempts to improve the contact of the switch to the battery was to remove the "excess" wrapper on the tail end of the battery in order to expose more metal. This had little to no effect. Examining that same battery, the Duracell that came with the flashlight, and the piston yet again earlier this evening, I noticed that the tail of the battery was loose and was able to pry it off. I do not know if there is any glue to adhere the tail to the rest of the battery or if it is just the wrapper that supports the tail so attempts at removing the tail may vary.
Looking down into the tailcap at the piston, I dropped the battery tail with its nipple facing up - basically, resulting in more surface contact area. As of a few minutes ago and several battery swaps, including the "problem" NiMH batt, the flickering seems to have stopped and the X1 no longer requires a very tight squeeze for the momentary. And while the twisty doesn't have quite the same "snap", ie. doesn't require to be screwed down all the way to activate, it is still acceptable and responsive.
I'll, of course, continue to look for even better solutions to improve the behavior of the X1 switch, but in the meantime, we may have found a workable and easy solution.
73
dim
I recently BSTed an X1 v1 (spot). It's a cool little flashlight. Stealthy, silent, and surprisingly bright. The HA 1xAA form feels nice in the hand too.
I too have experienced switch issues - not only with flickering when using the momentary switch, but in an attempt to remedy the problem by changing the battery, I've discovered that some batteries simply didn't work at all in the X1! In particular, a NiMH batt who's "tail" (negative) was slightly squashed in. I can only assume that the "nipple" in the middle of the "piston" in the X1's endcap never made contact with the battery. I think that either the nipple or the piston itself is too short so that contact with a battery becomes intermittent. I am uncertain of the purpose of the little "feet" near the perimeter of the piston nor whether they are conductive or not.
One of the several attempts to improve the contact of the switch to the battery was to remove the "excess" wrapper on the tail end of the battery in order to expose more metal. This had little to no effect. Examining that same battery, the Duracell that came with the flashlight, and the piston yet again earlier this evening, I noticed that the tail of the battery was loose and was able to pry it off. I do not know if there is any glue to adhere the tail to the rest of the battery or if it is just the wrapper that supports the tail so attempts at removing the tail may vary.
Looking down into the tailcap at the piston, I dropped the battery tail with its nipple facing up - basically, resulting in more surface contact area. As of a few minutes ago and several battery swaps, including the "problem" NiMH batt, the flickering seems to have stopped and the X1 no longer requires a very tight squeeze for the momentary. And while the twisty doesn't have quite the same "snap", ie. doesn't require to be screwed down all the way to activate, it is still acceptable and responsive.
I'll, of course, continue to look for even better solutions to improve the behavior of the X1 switch, but in the meantime, we may have found a workable and easy solution.
73
dim
Dawg
Enlightened
I bought a 2nd gen X1 based on reviews and after carrying a 1st gen for a year. After reading this thread, I carefully examined the lens on the 2nd gen and it is in fact glued in. The only thing wrong with my 1st gen was the anodize was wearing off on the tailcap from being on a keychain for a year.
I switched the tailcap from the new one, on to my old 1st gen, making it look new and then attached the new one with the glued in lens to an aluminum biner and gifted it to my wife. Now I don't have to worry if the lens falls off. She wont notice.
I switched the tailcap from the new one, on to my old 1st gen, making it look new and then attached the new one with the glued in lens to an aluminum biner and gifted it to my wife. Now I don't have to worry if the lens falls off. She wont notice.
Sigman
* The Arctic Moderator *
Oh you "Dawg" you!!Dawg said:
Niteowl
Enlightened
When I heard about the change to a reflector, I finally got in gear and bought an X1 v.1 at Target. I figured the spot beam would come in handy under certain situations.
I love the beam! Better than I expected by far. Tint was also much better than I expected. Nice feel in the hand, like the finish too. Basically, I really like it, but.......
The tailcap/switch just plain sucks.........I cannot believe the amount of play in the threads. I can push/pull the tailcap quite a bit. A lot of wobble too. The button function is completely useless and if I simply used it as a twisty, the amount I'd have to unscrew it to keep it off is absurd.
Regretfully, it's going back to Target tomorrow. They had one other left but I doubt it's any better.
I love the beam! Better than I expected by far. Tint was also much better than I expected. Nice feel in the hand, like the finish too. Basically, I really like it, but.......
The tailcap/switch just plain sucks.........I cannot believe the amount of play in the threads. I can push/pull the tailcap quite a bit. A lot of wobble too. The button function is completely useless and if I simply used it as a twisty, the amount I'd have to unscrew it to keep it off is absurd.
Regretfully, it's going back to Target tomorrow. They had one other left but I doubt it's any better.
greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I got a bad one like that too... the threads weren't very tight. Don't let that discourage you.
Niteowl
Enlightened
Niteowl said:
I refrained from rushing out to Target today and returning the X1 (v.1). Instead, I called Inova and politely explained the issue. As I understand it, there are "a couple" of new tailcaps headed my way to see if it will rectify the problem. I have my doubts but appreciate the effort. I'm hoping a new cap will do the trick. Will report back.
greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
That's nice of them, but I think the body is the problem, not the tailcap.
Look at the difference:
The black x1 is v.2... I don't think this manufacturing variation is consistant throughout the product line.
Look at the difference:
The black x1 is v.2... I don't think this manufacturing variation is consistant throughout the product line.
Niteowl wrote: "The tailcap/switch just plain sucks.........I cannot believe the amount of play in the threads. I can push/pull the tailcap quite a bit. A lot of wobble too. The button function is completely useless and if I simply used it as a twisty, the amount I'd have to unscrew it to keep it off is absurd. "
There will always be some play in the threads - however yours does sound excessive.
Niteowl wrote: "As I understand it, there are "a couple" of new tailcaps headed my way to see if it will rectify the problem. I have my doubts but appreciate the effort. I'm hoping a new cap will do the trick. Will report back."
Sometimes it's the size/thickness of the O-ring that takes up the play - if yours for some reason are undersized or thin, new tailcaps may not solve the problem - but another O-ring might......
regarding the momentary button, this might be relevant -
The electrical contact is made via the tube end - which should be bare metal.
Sometimes there is some "overflow" of anodization - easier to see with a black model - but can still be quite easily seen even on the titanium color. If so, this could cause unreliable contact since the momentary depression can be from any orientation - and the inner contact plate may be hitting the non-conductive anodized part.
One can overcome this by using the momentary button more centrally and more firmly (smooth tubing compounds the difficulty), and perhaps not unscrewing/backing-off the tail-cap by quite as much, I found 1/2 turn a bit too much and would make the momentary unreliable - whereas about 3/8 turn would make it much easier.
Of course the better option is to sand/file off any anodizing on the tube end. I use a fine diamond sharpening stone and very lightly move the tube end evenly over its surface, examining often to check when all the anodizing is just removed.
When I'm sure all the anodizing is gone I then "polish" the tube end by rubbing on cardboard. Then make sure threads, O-ring, tube end and inside the body as well as the tail-cap contact plate are thoroughly clean, and lightly lube - before replacing the battery to use.
(note: over lubing is not only messy - but a lot of lubes are non-conductive so can cause bad contact problems.)
Just one other slight possibility worth checking - the battery end should protrude a bit from the body when the tailcap is off - there is the sprung "piston" +ve contact that pushes the battery so it protrudes a bit, make sure that the piston is functioning properly.
Hope some of this helps......
There will always be some play in the threads - however yours does sound excessive.
Niteowl wrote: "As I understand it, there are "a couple" of new tailcaps headed my way to see if it will rectify the problem. I have my doubts but appreciate the effort. I'm hoping a new cap will do the trick. Will report back."
Sometimes it's the size/thickness of the O-ring that takes up the play - if yours for some reason are undersized or thin, new tailcaps may not solve the problem - but another O-ring might......
regarding the momentary button, this might be relevant -
The electrical contact is made via the tube end - which should be bare metal.
Sometimes there is some "overflow" of anodization - easier to see with a black model - but can still be quite easily seen even on the titanium color. If so, this could cause unreliable contact since the momentary depression can be from any orientation - and the inner contact plate may be hitting the non-conductive anodized part.
One can overcome this by using the momentary button more centrally and more firmly (smooth tubing compounds the difficulty), and perhaps not unscrewing/backing-off the tail-cap by quite as much, I found 1/2 turn a bit too much and would make the momentary unreliable - whereas about 3/8 turn would make it much easier.
Of course the better option is to sand/file off any anodizing on the tube end. I use a fine diamond sharpening stone and very lightly move the tube end evenly over its surface, examining often to check when all the anodizing is just removed.
When I'm sure all the anodizing is gone I then "polish" the tube end by rubbing on cardboard. Then make sure threads, O-ring, tube end and inside the body as well as the tail-cap contact plate are thoroughly clean, and lightly lube - before replacing the battery to use.
(note: over lubing is not only messy - but a lot of lubes are non-conductive so can cause bad contact problems.)
Just one other slight possibility worth checking - the battery end should protrude a bit from the body when the tailcap is off - there is the sprung "piston" +ve contact that pushes the battery so it protrudes a bit, make sure that the piston is functioning properly.
Hope some of this helps......
zulu45
Enlightened
- Joined
- Mar 17, 2006
- Messages
- 238
I, personally, haven't had any problems with my X1 v2, though the switched did need some breaking in (though very little). But this lens issue is really starting to bug me, and prevention being all the rage 
, I'm wondering about a cheap, but efficient way, to reinforce the lens. Perhaps some super glue, forming a very thin "seal" around the edge, to where it won't interfere with the light. I think a lot of us could definately use a suggestion concerning this.
, I'm wondering about a cheap, but efficient way, to reinforce the lens. Perhaps some super glue, forming a very thin "seal" around the edge, to where it won't interfere with the light. I think a lot of us could definately use a suggestion concerning this.Niteowl wrote: "The tailcap/switch just plain sucks.........I cannot believe the amount of play in the threads. I can push/pull the tailcap quite a bit. A lot of wobble too."
Just a quick follow up - I backed off the tailcap of my Inova X1 Spot - White until it was clear of the O-ring - and there was a LOT of play/looseness/wobble.
....out of interest I took a light that I considered well made and had "tight" threads - Fenix L1 v2.5 - I took the battery out (as the tailcap has a spring that would contribute to some tension) and backed the tailcap off clear of the O-ring - and lo-and-behold - lots of play/looseness/wobble - perhaps not as much as the X1 - but very comparable.
So my opinion is that the looseness/play is taken up by a suitable sized O-ring - so that might be the solution.......
Looking back - a suitable O-ring probably is the solution too for the loose tailcaps of my 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New
- however, you can see my alternate solution in Post #61
I also used plumbers' PTFE (Teflon) tape to take up some play in the threads - since the threads are anodized and do not make electrical contact - this is OK - Post #70
Just a quick follow up - I backed off the tailcap of my Inova X1 Spot - White until it was clear of the O-ring - and there was a LOT of play/looseness/wobble.
....out of interest I took a light that I considered well made and had "tight" threads - Fenix L1 v2.5 - I took the battery out (as the tailcap has a spring that would contribute to some tension) and backed the tailcap off clear of the O-ring - and lo-and-behold - lots of play/looseness/wobble - perhaps not as much as the X1 - but very comparable.
So my opinion is that the looseness/play is taken up by a suitable sized O-ring - so that might be the solution.......
Looking back - a suitable O-ring probably is the solution too for the loose tailcaps of my 8LED 1AA "Xnova" New
- however, you can see my alternate solution in Post #61
I also used plumbers' PTFE (Teflon) tape to take up some play in the threads - since the threads are anodized and do not make electrical contact - this is OK - Post #70
greenlight
Flashlight Enthusiast
I don't see this as a problem, as the setup is similar to the infinity, arc, and peak. The LED is virtually indestructable, and watertight (I assume), so the only real problem is the accumulation of pocket lint. I wouldn't be surprised if the light was engineered this way with the lens added to make it look more like a 'flashlight'.
C4LED
Enlightened
This is sensible, and I certainly hope that this is the case, but wouldn't want to find out it's not true the hard way. I've been wondering about this issue also. (I'm thinking your writing about the lens falling off and the light being exposed to water.)
greenlight said:
Niteowl
Enlightened
Niteowl said:
That was on the sixth. I got back into town on the night of the tenth and went to target and bought the last silver X1 v.1, they had the new versions also. It fit very well with minimum play or wobble. Very nice.
The next day I picked up a package from Inova. In it were three tailcaps. Many thanks to Laurie at Inova for the tailcaps!
OK, here's what developed. All three of the new black tailcaps fit much better and functioned as intended, but not as nice as the silver X1's tailcap.
I swapped the cap from the silver one with the original black one. The silver cap fit as nicely on the black X1 as it did on the silver X1. The black cap fit just as poorly on the silver X1 as it did on the black X1. The new black tailcaps also fit the same on either light, OK, but not as nice as the silver X1.
I really didn't like the silver version initially, but it has grown on me. Never thought I'd buy a "silver" light with a spot beam.......
After using the spot version, I don't think I'm likely to buy the new version with the reflector. I like the spot beam and the way the business end looks on the old version. The 5mm led looks a bit odd in a reflector, IMO. Glueing the lense in just doesn't seem right to me either.
InfidelCastro
Banned
fieldops said:
I'm sure it was done, with our best interest in mind and not just for cost saving measures.
/sarcasm
Nyctophiliac
Flashlight Enthusiast
Hello chaps,
I emailed INOVA about these concerns and they replied:
'While we cannot satisfy every customer, we value your input and endeavor to be responsive to your ideas and concerns. The changes in our product came from a pairing of our engineers constant commitment to the evolution of the Inova® line of products and their quality, as well as customer feedback such as yours.
As always, all our products carry a limited lifetime warranty, to cover any manufacturer's defect. While this is not a problem we have seen much of, you may send any defective flashlights into us for replacement.
In the event that you do have a defective light, you may return the product to us and we will send you a replacement light. In the return box, please include a brief description of the problem you are experiencing, a $5.00 fee for shipping and handling, and be sure to address it to the following:
ATTENTION RETURNS
Emissive Energy Corp.
135 Circuit Drive
North Kingstown RI 02852'
From what I have heard, they do seem to have a fantastic customer satisfaction overall, they certainly make my favorite lights (T1 and old X1 since you ask!) so give them the benefit of the doubt, and I'll wait until they pry my old X1 (With the brightest white led I've ever seen! I believe it's a freak) from my cold dead hands...
Have more fun with youre lights...become nocturnal!!
I emailed INOVA about these concerns and they replied:
'While we cannot satisfy every customer, we value your input and endeavor to be responsive to your ideas and concerns. The changes in our product came from a pairing of our engineers constant commitment to the evolution of the Inova® line of products and their quality, as well as customer feedback such as yours.
As always, all our products carry a limited lifetime warranty, to cover any manufacturer's defect. While this is not a problem we have seen much of, you may send any defective flashlights into us for replacement.
In the event that you do have a defective light, you may return the product to us and we will send you a replacement light. In the return box, please include a brief description of the problem you are experiencing, a $5.00 fee for shipping and handling, and be sure to address it to the following:
ATTENTION RETURNS
Emissive Energy Corp.
135 Circuit Drive
North Kingstown RI 02852'
From what I have heard, they do seem to have a fantastic customer satisfaction overall, they certainly make my favorite lights (T1 and old X1 since you ask!) so give them the benefit of the doubt, and I'll wait until they pry my old X1 (With the brightest white led I've ever seen! I believe it's a freak) from my cold dead hands...
Have more fun with youre lights...become nocturnal!!
Apollo
Newly Enlightened
It is disappointing to hear of poor QC on the new X1's (especially with the lens falling off). I've got one and it works great, but I'll keep a close watch on it and the moment you can bet it will be going back to Inova.
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