Introducing "Draco" - - - PART 2

Here's what the extended model looks like compared to the stock unit:


Here's how a fully-loaded and a stock unit compare: (sorry about the weird color balance)


Here's the 2 Dracos and an HDS for size reference:


I'm looking forward to seeing beam shots by you Draco owners who know how to use your cameras!

Cheers
Chris

Rookwood said:

Here's what the extended model looks like compared to the stock unit:

Here's how a fully-loaded and a stock unit compare: (sorry about the weird color balance)

Cheers
Chris

Click to expand...

Ooohhh.....it's so BIG ! :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Cliff

great pics, thanks.

CroMAGnet said:

WOW!! Jeff, those are some serious statements. Can hardly wait to see those pics.

People I have shown the turbo head Draco have been really amazed. It really reminds me of a RAW when it comes to beam quality. I really like my RAW, its what it's suppose to be... RAW and the Draco is sooo sweet and refined.

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CroMAGnet,

I'm with you on the comparison with the RAW beam. I think another thing the Draco shares with the RAW is a very nice twisty action. Very smooth and consistent. No mushy feeling leaving you wondering if you've given it enough of a twist or too much.

Chuck

Beamshots posted here

jeffb

Rookwood said:

Here's a question for you bin experts: The Draco intro states that the S bin should be noticeably brighter, but when I compare it to my newly-received U bin, I think the U bin looks brighter - it's definitely whiter. Is the S bin really supposed to be brighter?

Left: S bin, Right: U bin - both at 3.5 feet with fresh batteries

Click to expand...

Are both lights in burst mode? I really want maximum brightness, but if these are both in burst, I think I'll go with the S bin. I like the warmer, creamier tint.

Rookwood - thanks so much! That's exactly the kind of photo I was looking for =) *clap clap*

CroMag - thanks for the reply. I would probably split my time b/t a lower level, and burst. From Rookwood's beamshot comparison though, I concur that the U-bin looks brighter? Certainly cooler tinted...grr, hard to decide. And no, I can't get both =) yet. > Regarding S-bin v/s U-bin longetivity, I don't have much of a ballpark idea of how much quicker the S-bin will degrade w/ frequent burst use, but even if it was as 'low' as 1000 hrs, how many years will that be? And if the design does lend itself to easy modding (guess so since the LE pops out!) that's a bonus too (cree xr-e?). One last q for you CroMag - when you say "the battery at burst levels is not going to be full-out for very long" - do you mean that at burst/high, it's going DD and as the voltage drops the dangerousness drops too, as far as LED health for the S-bin?

One final q - the turbohead, serves to focus the photons to concentrate into a hotter hotspot, right? So if I was interested in a floodier beam, the stock head is fine?

Trashman said:

Are both lights in burst mode? I really want maximum brightness, but if these are both in burst, I think I'll go with the S bin. I like the warmer, creamier tint.

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Yes - both lights were in burst mode.

mcmc said:

Rookwood - thanks so much! That's exactly the kind of photo I was looking for =) *clap clap*

CroMag - thanks for the reply. I would probably split my time b/t a lower level, and burst. From Rookwood's beamshot comparison though, I concur that the U-bin looks brighter? Certainly cooler tinted...grr, hard to decide. And no, I can't get both =) yet. > Regarding S-bin v/s U-bin longetivity, I don't have much of a ballpark idea of how much quicker the S-bin will degrade w/ frequent burst use, but even if it was as 'low' as 1000 hrs, how many years will that be? And if the design does lend itself to easy modding (guess so since the LE pops out!) that's a bonus too (cree xr-e?). One last q for you CroMag - when you say "the battery at burst levels is not going to be full-out for very long" - do you mean that at burst/high, it's going DD and as the voltage drops the dangerousness drops too, as far as LED health for the S-bin?

One final q - the turbohead, serves to focus the photons to concentrate into a hotter hotspot, right? So if I was interested in a floodier beam, the stock head is fine?

Click to expand...

Thanks for all those pictures

I'll try to answer your questions as best I can. But first I must ask you if you used the same size battery in the S Vs. U picture. I'm assuming you did but if you used the AAA size body in the U then it will pro'ly be brighter.

As for the burst level at full-out, yes it will be draining the battery quickly anyway so it should be dropping from around 600mA down to 500mA or lower at a fairly fast rate. So it's not like you can leave the LED on for half an hour at Burst levels. I'd hazard a gues that you'd get maybe 5-minutes above 500mA :shrug: and you'd pro'ly want to drive the light at around 400mA without much worry for the LED. These are just estimates from the basics I've gleaned in CPF over the years. Jonathan, Newbie, McGizmo or others can get a lot more detailed here.

Now when using the AAA size battery you will pro'ly get 700mA on Burst. Maybe higher and it will last a lot longer so you'll want to go easy on any LED there. (if you're concerned with preserving the LED) By this time next year the Sbin or Ubin even will pro'ly be selling for $1 each if you care to replace the LED. And even upgrade to a CREE if/when that happens

I'm rambling and tired. zzzzzzzzzzzzzz

niterz

PS ROOKWOOD: Great pics in your link! Thanks!

I love it when you guys have fun

...

I get alot of question regarding the brightness of the S vs U bin.
"Statistically" from the samples that I tested the S-bin have a higher "chance" of being brighter than the U-bin. But how for long ... one, two five years, I don't know.

The brightness difference is < 5%. It's all really really close.

At the end of the day it really comes down to what tint you like, Y0 or W0/X0 because all of them will make you see stars. At least I do everynight when I assemble them.


--- Now for the modder in me ---
Long story ... My bro-in-law is a fishaholic, he would so fishing pratically every week and stay out in the freaking cold and rain till 4-5 AM. Last week he hit the big one. He got himself a whopping 72" sturgeon. He gave my wife 1/3 of the fish. He also brag alittle about his gear the entire day.

One particular item in his box caught my eye. It was the stainless steel, frictionless ball bearing swivel. I heard of them from the edcforums.com but never knew what they are and where to look for them.

So I got two of them, take a look! They are a blast. Now my Draco can rotate freely.

I wish I knew where these were sold prior to purchasing the Pico light just for the swivel :duh2:




I gave my bro a draco in return for making my day!
Such tiny wonder and how they make us smile.
Maybe I'm simple to please


Now for a sad note. One of the member report Draco #52 is MIA. I hope that I just shipped them to the wrong person. If anyone happen to recieve #52 please let me know ASAP. Thank you.

Hey guys,

Where does the o-ring sit in the head. Is it in front of the glass or behind the glass in front of the reflector.
Not sure if anyone else is having a problem with the o-ring at the front squeezing out when twisted on a few times. I have put it back in and it keeps on slipping out at one side.
Anybody?

Thanks,

Steve

stevevh said:

Hey guys,

Where does the o-ring sit in the head. Is it in front of the glass or behind the glass in front of the reflector.
Not sure if anyone else is having a problem with the o-ring at the front squeezing out when twisted on a few times. I have put it back in and it keeps on slipping out at one side.
Anybody?

Thanks,

Steve

Click to expand...

Steve -

On both of mine, the O-ring is between the glass and the reflector.

It seems odd that yours would be moving around, since the cap/lens and emitter head should be secured tightly under normal operation. The reflector should be making constant pressure against the O-ring.

Chris

The Ti production have just recently completed. Unfortunately there was a miss communication between me & the boss (I say turn left, he thought it was his right). As a result some of the parts need to be reworked. So there goes my nice and beautiful weekend in the park.

As promissed to one of the Ti participant member. Here's a shot of 1/80 Ti Light.



Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.

:rock:

I'm sooooo glad to be getting a Ti version of this mini-powerhouse! I can't wait to try out the turbo head in person.

-DF

DFiorentino said:

:rock:

I'm sooooo glad to be getting a Ti version of this mini-powerhouse! I can't wait to try out the turbo head in person.

-DF

Click to expand...

Thank you for your support #1

You saw what this was going to be from the very beginning! :twothumbs:

modamag said:

Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.

Click to expand...

Jonathan, is that the non-lanyard body behind that won't be made? What's "LL"?
Looking great and I can (hardly) wait to get mine.

Steve

modamag said:

The Ti production have just recently completed. Unfortunately there was a miss communication between me & the boss (I say turn left, he thought it was his right). As a result some of the parts need to be reworked. So there goes my nice and beautiful weekend in the park.

As promissed to one of the Ti participant member. Here's a shot of 1/80 Ti Light.

Oh the LL version was done manually and will not be available FS.

Click to expand...

Ho !!! I finally find this thread Nice pictures and... the turbo head seams very nice...If only I had more money ... :thinking:

I posted in another thread....sorry I didn't remember this part 2 of Draco thread I saw here, the difference between TIN and TICN...my bad

Awaiting patiently the soon release of TI

And about the LL version,

*** Final Titanium Coating Consideration ***
Guys, we are pretty much ready for the TiCN & TiN separation. This will be the last opportunity for the members to choose their Titanium coating or lack their of.

I will probably have one of each (Ti/TiN/TiCN). Personally the one that might make it to my EDC will be the Ti bare version. After seeing the results of 300 RPM 0.001" I don't want any coating to "mask" the smooth machine finish.

I only made enough for the run (40/40), so unfortunately there is not enough to cover for people who change their mind after the plating is done.

I think malcontent and Morelite somehow predicted this cause they order pure Ti-6/4 bare.


SteveStephens: the Lanyard-Less (LL) body will not be available to the public. The reason is there's no function to it other than the title of "shortest high power LED flashlight". It's 3.75mm shorter than the typical Draco. Side walls are extremely thin.

Frenchyled; It's OK my friend. Long time no hear from you. If anyone deserve a LL in their collection it would be you.

The Ti sure looks sweet.

Please change TiCN order #8 to bare Ti, including the turbo head and extesion tube of course.

I didn't realize "no coating" was an option. Please change #16 to Ti bare.

Thanks,
Marcus

Bare Ti for me too please....and a bare extension tube added to my order if possibe. Thanks.