Seoul P4 initial Evaluation- Production LEDs

Christexan

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yaesumofo - I never said that the lack of "drop-in" ability was going to hurt the P4's commercial success, only that the apparent drop in interest in CPF group buys now that they have been tested in the real world, may partially be due to the fact that some (including myself) hoped the emitter would be a simple "Lux replacement", but since the slug is not only not neutral but is actually reversed from non-neutral luxeons, and the physical dimensions mean the luxeon optics/reflectors won't fit properly without more work, means that instead of "buy, disassemble light and remove old Luxeon, epoxy new P4 emitter and resolder, reassemble light", now modifications to circuits, reflectors, etc are required. If 20% of people in a group buy wanted a simple drop-in replacement, they may now be reconsidering.
Never said anything about commercial success, our group buys are nothing compared to commercial volumes of LED makers. As I've said many times myself, CPFers have virtually no effect on commercial success of any LED mfger, we are a blip, but if I as an individual was waiting to see if a P4 could easily replace a Lux III, signed up for a group buy, and then found that it not only won't work properly electrically or physically as a drop-in replacement, and it also may or may not have some significant manufacturing defects compared to the Cree brand part (I am not saying this, only that a sample of one so far did), then I might drop my interest a degree, as I'm sure some others might consider also.
 

Hellbore

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I wish someone would scrutinize the U bin of these LED's and see if these kind of problems are common or just isolated incidents!

I just bought one of the U bins today and I'm excited to try it in place of a Lux III...
 

chris_m

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evan9162 said:
It's extremely arrogant (and fatal) for a tiny company to try to break into a market by requiring new tooling or a completely new interface when competing with a very large, well known, and entrenched competitor.

Right now, it's in the best interest for Seoul to make their power LEDs completely drop-in compatible with luxeons. I mean, they went to the effort of making their power LEDs look exactly like a luxoen, they should just make them optically and electrically compatible as well. They are a newcomer to the market, and for them to get a good enough foothold to actually start calling the shots, they need to get a large customer base. They are going up against lumileds right now, and the best way to do that and be successful is to offer a fully drop-in replacement for Luxeon LEDs that require no (or very tiny) change(s) mechanically, optically, and electrically.

To do otherwise would be to repeat mistakes of the past (hint - read up on NextGen CPUs)
You seem to be completely ignorant of the LED market, and how insignificant we are here at CPF. SSC couldn't care less whether or not we can drop in their LEDs as a replacement for Luxeons - there are plenty of optics specific to their LEDs out there which manufacturers can use (assuming the P4 matches the existing SSC LEDs), and plenty of SSC LEDs already in use in various products. Meanwhile neither are they a tiny company nor a newcomer to the market - they simply have much less exposure here due to the relative non-availability of their LEDs to the general public (I bet you didn't know that before the XR-E, the power LED with the highest lumens per watt you could actually buy was made by SSC - I got some of those over a year ago). As to the idea that they actually tried to make their LED look like a Luxeon :lolsign:
 
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McGizmo

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Hellbore,

I too find this problem here as a concern. I have been building with U bin P4's in the V0 tint bin and aside from some possible and what I consider minor, tint variations, I have not seen this problem. I have not noticed any shift due to current like Newbie has reported. Lux and Flux monitoring have been indicative of parts performing as one would expect as well. Actually the flux and lux have been most impressive! Max current I have applied has been from the DB917 drivers so about 920 mA.

The spec sheet I have seen on the P4's lists max current as TBD. Since Seoul has given a release of flux based on 1 amp and since the EZ1000 itself is a 2 amp part, I am comfortable in driving these LED's at 900+ mA in a flashlight until or unless some other max is provided by Seoul as a guideline.

My personal plan is to monitor any of the lights I build with the P4's and if I see any with indications of strong color shift, I will pull those LED's out and simply not use them.

In retrospect, it would have been informative on this one bad apple that Newbie got to have tried to get a measure of its flux prior to autopsy. I doubt the LED would perform as one would expect it to. :shrug:
 

evan9162

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chris_m said:
You seem to be completely ignorant of the LED market, and how insignificant we are here at CPF. SSC couldn't care less whether or not we can drop in their LEDs as a replacement for Luxeons - there are plenty of optics specific to their LEDs out there which manufacturers can use (assuming the P4 matches the existing SSC LEDs), and plenty of SSC LEDs already in use in various products. Meanwhile neither are they a tiny company nor a newcomer to the market - they simply have much less exposure here due to the relative non-availability of their LEDs to the general public (I bet you didn't know that before the XR-E, the power LED with the highest lumens per watt you could actually buy was made by SSC - I got some of those over a year ago). As to the idea that they actually tried to make their LED look like a Luxeon :lolsign:



Your post might be more effective without the thinly veiled insults.

No where in my post did I state or imply that drop in capability had anything to do with our needs here. The vast majority of current applications where luxeons are primarily used would require a drop in replacement for SSC to make inroads in those fields. I'm talking about things like architectual lighting, traffic lights, LCD backlighting, vehicle lighting, etc. In all of those situations, mechanical and optical compatability would need to be identical to that of a luxeon for a manufacturer to consider switching parts. Redesigning enclosures and optics is a major undertaking, reducing the incentive to use a different part.

And if SSC didn't "try" to make their parts look like a luxeon, how come every other major power LED maker's parts look completely different than a luxeon? All of the other major players (Nichia, Cree, Osram, Lamina) look COMPLETELY different than luxeons.
 
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AndyTiedye

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CPF is a blip. A blip on the radar screen by which we can see what the new technology looks like way before it is in commercial products.
 

Hellbore

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AndyTiedye said:
CPF is a blip. A blip on the radar screen by which we can see what the new technology looks like way before it is in commercial products.

That may be true, but I think I speak for everyone when I say, we love CPF with every fiber of our body...including our peepee...
 

NewBie

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EngrPaul said:
Going by the pictures only, the metal square is the solder joint. It should be fully shiny through the square, with the exception of some air pockets. Instead, it's dark in the lower left corner where solder didn't join, and liquid (phosphor, whatever) wicked in later. If a cross-section at 45 degrees (a cutting line from NW to SE) was done, it should reveal there is solid material on the surface of the metal at that corner of the solder joint. This is why it pulled apart so readily. Good, complete solder joints should not come apart like that.


Sorry, it is definitely not solder.


I just got home, and I'll get some pictures taken and up shortly.


.
 
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thezman

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While all the info in this thread is great, (and thanks NewBie for all the work), I pretty much decided that I'll just spend some money and test some of these out and see if they fill the need I want them to. And I won't be micro analyzing them, I'll just plop them into a couple lights and go from there. If I don't like them, in the trash they go. Can't get any simpler than that.
 

EngrPaul

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NewBie said:
Sorry, it is definitely not solder.

Silver epoxy? Some sort of bonding feature, not necessarily solder.

OK I await you additional info. :grin2:
 

EngrPaul

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thezman said:
While all the info in this thread is great, (and thanks NewBie for all the work), I pretty much decided that I'll just spend some money and test some of these out and see if they fill the need I want them to. And I won't be micro analyzing them, I'll just plop them into a couple lights and go from there. If I don't like them, in the trash they go. Can't get any simpler than that.

This is where I am.

I installed some WH XR-E's, and a few of them turned out to be really green. Oh well, I've ordered some WC's to replace them. I suppose it's a game of trying different things, and moving on when necessary.
 

NewBie

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Die bonding material.

I appologize about some of the dust ahead of time. We are looking at a die that is actually a tad smaller than 1mm by 1mm. When the dome is on, magnification takes place and makes the die look much bigger than it actually is.

As such, dust starts looking pretty big at these magnifications, and I didn't dust my lenses before hand. I noticed it part way thru my photos, and cleaned things off.


If you look flat at the surface, or normal the material actually looks grey, and if you look closely, you can see a few shiny spots, those are flat areas that were on contact with the die. When you are perpendicular like this, it appears black, grey, and white (flat spots):

sp4diea1.jpg



However, if you look at any angle it has a tan appearance. If you look carefully, you'll see a spot where the thermal epoxy did not break loose of the slug, and instead broke loose of the side of the die, and left a bump there at 1 o'clock. The thermal epoxy that was used sticks well to the glassy sides of the die, but it didn't stick as well to the slug as it did there. However, on the solder bottom of the die, it stuck better to the slug than the die, and that is most what we are looking at:

sp4diea2.jpg



An angled shot of the material up closer:

sp4diea3.jpg



Looking again from angle, closer yet, so you can see the side view, instead of where the occasional flat surface touches the die, like you see from the top.

sp4diea4.jpg



Looking even closer yet:

sp4diea5.jpg



Here is a top view, perpendicular to the surface, where you can see the occasional surface that touches the die, and the valleys in between. The white blurry areas that you see, if you focus up and down, you can actually see the slug surface below in the porous matrix:

sp4diea6.jpg



Here I went over to the edge to make things very obvious. I am focused on the slug surface in the top half of the picture, and you can see the slug surface between the clumps of goo in the bottom half:

sp4diea7.jpg



Same shot from another angle:

sp4diea8.jpg



And closer yet:
sp4diea9.jpg



Here is a shot where I focused on one of the pieces of epoxy that didn't stick to the glassy sides of the die:

sp4dieb1.jpg



And the dome + bondwires + die, just as it came off as one assembly, the RTV + RTV+phosphor, actually stuck better to the die than the thermal epoxy did!

sp4dieb2.jpg



Finally, lets go back and look at the die shot, taking notice where the thermal epoxy stuck to the sides of the glassy die better than the AuSn bottom of the LED die:

sp4die5.png



Anyhow, enjoy! It was much more facinating in person than it is in photos.


.
.
 
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EngrPaul

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Thanks Newbie. I understand what's going on now. The failure mode is similar to what I state, just not at the solder layer.

As was already stated, it would be interesting whether or not this bonding defect is located in a portion of the subassembly also used in the Cree XR-E.
 

NewBie

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Seoul does not use the SiC ESD diode sub assembly.

The failure is in the epoxy used by Seoul to direct bond the die to the slug, and the porous open epoxy matrix delaminated from the CREE die at the thermal and rear electrical interface, but yet stuck to the glassy sides of the die better than even the substrate for 3 out of 4 sides.


--> Disqualifier: My own personal feelings, not anything I'm stating as fact or whatever, below

IMHO, especially after looking at the construction methods, personally I don't think I will personally be using these, and if I did, I personally will not put them in any of my personal expensive flashlights. Maybe something like a Lumapower or a Nuwai Q3. For myself personally, I'd definitely be very tempted to run them at low powers (less than 350mA), and would not personally use them in anything I personally would want to last or personally count on. I personally would be very tempted to get as much heat as possible out of the LED with heatsinking I'd personally consider quite robust.

With the failures I personally had with parts I personally purchased, and the variations I personally experienced between the parts, it reinforces my personal own opinion I metioned above.
 
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McGizmo

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Hi Newbie,
How are dice typically bonded to the slugs? If epoxy was used here, was it also electrically conductive epoxy and hence the anode connectivity? Would one or could one measure resistance between the anode lead tab and the slug to test connectivity of die to slug?

This part was obvious from the get go to you as being suspect. Do you think other less obvious LED's will have premature failure due to an epoxy bond? Will this failure be due to thermal build up?

Is epoxy not acceptable as an adhesive? I have had no trouble lifting LED's from stars or even from anodized sinks that have been epoxied as the mechanical bond to some of the smooth surfaces is just not that great. There appears to be delamination in this bad part. Was the delamination a result of some trama to the assembly after assembly or do you think it could have been a bond flaw at assembly time?

On this particular LED, what has its history been with your testing? Could it have suffered some thermal abuse prior to sufficient sinking? Was it soldered to a heat sink and if so, could the process of soldering it have had ill effect?

In fairness to potential and unwitting users of these LED's should Seoul be contacted and told to cease production of the P4's until they get a better assembly program in place?

In assuming that your personal opinion on these LED's is not a case of over reaction, what do you suppose should be done?

Seoul does not use the SiC ESD diode sub assembly.

The failure is in the epoxy used by Seoul to direct bond the die to the slug, and the porous open epoxy matrix delaminated from the CREE die at the thermal and rear electrical interface, but yet stuck to the glassy sides of the die better than even the substrate for 3 out of 4 sides.


--> Disqualifier: My own personal feelings, not anything I'm stating as fact or whatever, below

IMHO, especially after looking at the construction methods, personally I don't think I will personally be using these, and if I did, I personally will not put them in any of my personal expensive flashlights. Maybe something like a Lumapower or a Nuwai Q3. For myself personally, I'd definitely be very tempted to run them at low powers (less than 350mA), and would not personally use them in anything I personally would want to last or personally count on. I personally would be very tempted to get as much heat as possible out of the LED.
 

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McGizmo said:
Hi Newbie,
How are dice typically bonded to the slugs? If epoxy was used here, was it also electrically conductive epoxy and hence the anode connectivity? Would one or could one measure resistance between the anode lead tab and the slug to test connectivity of die to slug?

The dice are typically soldered to an ESD sub-carrier assy, like with the Luxeons and the CREE. The CREE SiC ESD diode is soldered to the substrate. I know this as fact, as I have actually unsoldered a die from an XR-E and re-soldered to a heat pipe.

I've also unsoldered the Luxeon die, shown here:

luxdie2.jpg



From the Luxeon ESD diode shown here:

luxdie4.jpg



The electrical resistance of even a few points of silver is going to be rather low, and if you look carefully at the Seoul P4, you will notice there is a bond wire that is opposite the three negative bond wires. The electrical resistance of this gold wire might mask anything that could be measured with a sensitive milliohm or micro-ohm meter.

What might work, is to watch the Vf shift from when the die is cold to when it gets hot. Hotter die will rise more than cooler die.

How one would assure long term reliability from some sort of test one could do might be a little tough. Here I'd be inclined to feel that you'd have to build 10,000 or so of them up, and run a test for a few years. The problem with this, is Seoul Semiconductor is constantly fiddling with their processes, so that would only tell you if that one batch held up over time. And you'd want to thermally cycle them at the same time, or at least turn them off until room temp, then back on, until the temperature stabilized.

One could also run the LEDs across several different current levels and capture the shift in tint, but since tint shift can be caused by other things, it isn't a definite thing. But, you might be able to weed out the ones that have obvious issues from the get go. The only reason this might work, is I'm seeing almost a break point where to color takes off blue, and that should be obvious.


McGizmo said:
This part was obvious from the get go to you as being suspect. Do you think other less obvious LED's will have premature failure due to an epoxy bond? Will this failure be due to thermal build up?

Yes, I've worked with Seoul's LEDs before, and have some experiences with their previous parts. Whether the other LEDs that looked better will have failures over time is pretty hard to say, but it is definitely something to suspect. One could do a few hundred or few thousand thermal cycles, or even a little bit of thermal shock (tough to know at what point you are exceeding specifications on weak items like the epoxy), and not exceeding the slower thermal pre-heat ramp they specify for soldering. This would be a better question for a materials scientist, imho.

This part here did not experience thermal build up, shock, or whatever. It was simply thermal epoxied, with more than adequate heatsinking. The very first time it was turned on, it showed a rapid blue shift at around 500mA. I've got other parts that shift above this, and one that holds on clear up to 1500mA (which is exceeding it's rating).

Now, if you are saying thermal build up in a product and causing pre-mature failure, that would be something I'd be thinking about, and addressing any way I could, as that should help lower the stresses that will be present inside the part.


McGizmo said:
Is epoxy not acceptable as an adhesive? I have had no trouble lifting LED's from stars or even from anodized sinks that have been epoxied as the mechanical bond to some of the smooth surfaces is just not that great. There appears to be delamination in this bad part. Was the delamination a result of some trama to the assembly after assembly or do you think it could have been a bond flaw at assembly time?

Not being a materials scientist, it is hard to say for sure. Surface prep is often of utmost importance when using many epoxies/RTV/silicones. What ever they are doing for their silicone bonding process is pretty decent, imho. When I've seen failures with bonds, on something that should handle the forces according to the datasheet on the substrates that were bonded together, it is often poor surface prep, substandard epoxy was supplied, or the designer forgot to consider something like the CTEs of the two materials joined, or in the case of two materials with differing CTEs- the designer didn't specify a minimum bond layer thickness of epoxy, the production process has poor control, or they are not doing it according to the specification. No idea if it is adequate or not, but I am seeing variations in these production parts I purchased from Mouser- and one that could cause what I am seeing is delamination, but the others could be due to something else. I've got one that has blue tint around it's four edges when driven at 700mA, and the one that runs up at 1500mA without excessive shift doesn't show this.

It would be hard to cause trama, it is recessed, but I do not know their process, so anything here would be pure speculation.


McGizmo said:
On this particular LED, what has its history been with your testing? Could it have suffered some thermal abuse prior to sufficient sinking? Was it soldered to a heat sink and if so, could the process of soldering it have had ill effect?

It was thermal epoxied, so no thermal shock or anything. It had great heatsinking from the get go. It showed the blue shift the first time I slowly ramped up the current, right around 500mA. The tape carrier packaging showed no signs of being crushed, bent, or other issues that might indicate something happened after they were packaged at Seoul.


McGizmo said:
In fairness to potential and unwitting users of these LED's should Seoul be contacted and told to cease production of the P4's until they get a better assembly program in place?

Humm- It really isn't my place to say what they should do. They may want to screen portions of production runs, and life screen, if they are not already. The screening may need to be more rigorous. I've seen a video of a Luxeon lookalike part that the only thing that was done was to test them at the binning current, and that is it, the binning was the only screening. Hard to say, but one might want to talk to the designer of this part himself, and not thru the sales/marketing force, and get his take on things, not some toned down marketing speak.

Better yet, if others find this issue in parts they have, contact their engineering, send them back to Seoul, and let them evaluate what is going on, since only they know what is actually used, the process, the intent, and such.

IMHO, the customers using these parts might want to consider doing some testing of their own (in any case), especially on something that is such cutting edge technology and new processes/materials used.


McGizmo said:
In assuming that your personal opinion on these LED's is not a case of over reaction, what do you suppose should be done?

Be cognizant of any failures or wierd behavior, even odd tint shifting, and if one finds them, to be dynamically proactive. Most especially for the consumer of the end product. If I was the consumer, I'd really want to consider the warranty offered on the light, and the past reputation for warranty handling of the company. IMHO, your reputation in this area is high shined Sterling Silver.

I've got more parts inbound from various sources, it will be very interesting to see what happens with those parts. I'm really hoping for the best, these Seoul parts only require heatsink shimming and reflector grinding to retrofit into existing Luxeon flashlights, so they could be useful for a lot of CPF'ers.

Right now, I'm not going to go out and buy a bunch to modify my own lights, but I may wait, and see what the long term experience is on these parts for others.

As I've been writing this, I've been considering making a circuit that would turn the parts on for a period of time, then turn them off for a period of time, to see how this Seoul P4 construction method holds up. One of the questions, is do I heatsink the part excessively, or do I heatsink it such that the die hits 125C, which is 20C lower than it's maximum specification. Or do both...which is where I am leaning....

It is possible, that somehow, I beat all the odds, and ended up with bum parts. It is really hard to say, without buying a few hundred parts from each of multiple runs, and doing a whole test program...
.
 

cy

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newbie, have you tried using a Staticmaster brush with polonium 210? http://www.unitednuclear.com/isotopes.htm
http://www.orau.org/PTP/collection/consumer products/staticeliminator.htm

NewBie said:
FYI, I rinsed off the Seoul P4 again, it keeps reaching out and grabbing dust out of the air... : (

If I decide to use many of these, I might think about making my own mini laminar flow bench, along with a +/- ion generator for equalizing charges to help keep the static down. Besides rinsing with water or isopropyl alcohol/water mix, anyone come across any great ideas on removing/preventing the dust collection on the Seoul P4?
 
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chris_m

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evan9162 said:
No where in my post did I state or imply that drop in capability had anything to do with our needs here. The vast majority of current applications where luxeons are primarily used would require a drop in replacement for SSC to make inroads in those fields. I'm talking about things like architectual lighting, traffic lights, LCD backlighting, vehicle lighting, etc. In all of those situations, mechanical and optical compatability would need to be identical to that of a luxeon for a manufacturer to consider switching parts. Redesigning enclosures and optics is a major undertaking, reducing the incentive to use a different part.
You're assuming firstly that SSC don't already have a part of this market - presumably on the basis that Luxeons seem a lot more prevalent to us as they're what are more readily available in the consumer marketplace. Secondly that it isn't fairly straightforward to drop in a new LED and optic, given that most optics manufacturers already offer SSC specific models with identical dimensions to Luxeon optics. That's always assuming any manufacturer would be interested in a drop in replacement anyway - I'm not convinced that's the way the high volume (ie tooling costs are a minor cost) market works.

And if SSC didn't "try" to make their parts look like a luxeon, how come every other major power LED maker's parts look completely different than a luxeon? All of the other major players (Nichia, Cree, Osram, Lamina) look COMPLETELY different than luxeons.
How about the second one down at http://www.nichia.com/product/led-smd-powerled.html - in any case there are only so many ways to skin a cat, and I'd be more surprised if some LEDs from different makers didn't look similar. What's more, the P4 is more or less a drop in replacement for the SSC P3 LED, which has been out for quite a while - unless of course you're actually suggesting that that's the point they copied Luxeon!
 

chimo

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Newbie, great job on the detective work, pics and write-up.

Seoul Semi states a fairly low thermal resistance (6.9 degC/W). Do you think they achieved that while using thermal adhesive instead of soldering the die by omitting the ESD diode?

Paul
 
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