Fenix L1D-CE Comparison Review

Man, very nice review. Thanks!

BentHeadTX said:

Here is the answer why you would have a mode that goes to max output followed by a strobe function (turbo mode) What LED device is #1 in sales for illumination that has that EXACT specific function? Think 10's of millions of them sold.

Yep, the red LED flashers that are used by bicyclists, joggers and walkers around the world. My L1D CE will perform that function as a bicycle helmet light and will always be in turbo mode since the mount won't let me twist the head.

Click to expand...

I don't see how the L1D CE can perform the red flasher function the same way, since it has a white led while the red flashers are, as you say, red. And the red flashers usually point backwards while I think vehicle codes typically don't allow white lights to point backwards unless they're backup lights. Also, the red flashers use multiple red leds pointing in different directions, covered by a diffusing lens, for maximum visibility from different angles, while the L1D CE has a carefully engineered reflector that directs most of the light in a narrow cone (the hot spot). In addition, the red flashers can usually run dozens of hours on a battery while the L1D CE uses a lot more power, but wastes most of the energy by concentrating it into that narrow cone mentioned earlier. Finally, strapping an L1D CE to your helmet may impair the helmet's safety function since its job is to protect your head from impact by spreading the energy from a crash into the (flat) pavement. If there's a hard cylindrical thing strapped to the helmet at the point of impact, that can concentrate the energy in one place and make you more susceptable to injury. Of course it's still better than nothing. But you're maybe safer attaching the light to your bike (as is typical for those red flashers) instead of to your helmet.

So we're back to the difference between a swiss-army-like multi-function gadget that does several things acceptably but nothing really well, versus a dedicated tool optimized for a single task. Someone like a hiker or traveller might want a SAK with its multiple functions, but someone like a sushi chef who spends 8 hours a day slicing up hunks of tuna is going to want a one-purpose fixed blade cooking knife, as they have zero interest in going camping or opening bottles with it. And someone like a security guard who uses a flashlight to look into the exact same series of rooms over and over during their nightly rounds doesn't care about strapping the flashlight to their bicycle helmet, so any functions geared towards that type of usage that get in the way of the main task are simply annoyances. Again, it's not just the flashlight functions, it's the user's applications, and users aren't all the same. So it's not so great to require us to all use a multi-function interface instead of an optimized one.

Arc LLC used to be on this quest for the one perfect flashlight that was right for everybody, a Zen notion that I never much believed in. But Fenix-store sells more than a dozen models of Fenix lights, so you'd think they could have some for the multi-function users and some for the single-function users, and we could take our choice. They do in fact have a new single-function light (the L2P v2.0) but it doesn't use the XR-E led for some reason I can't fathom, so it's no longer great in the sense of using the best available technology. Thus my observation: Fenix used to make lights (the L1p/L2p) that were great for single-purpose users, but stopped. Why, oh why, did they feel they had to stop?

I see the point of multi-functions in a small EDC like the L0D CE or P1D CE. Larger lights like the L2P should give more consideration to the single purpose user.

I did the refocusing and it worked great! The beam is still ringy but the donut is gone. I was able to unscrew it by hand, though it is tough.

Mine took between 1/4 and 1/2 turn to get it set. It is hella tough to turn and it feels jsut as secure as it was before. Refocsing + a textured reflector would probably give the light a very nice beam.

UnknownVT wrote:
"paulr wrote: "Can you test it with 3 volts in, to simulate an L2D CE? "
I actually have a L2D-CE to hand also due to the kind courtesy of 4sevens (http://Fenix-Store.com).
I was going to do the comparison on 2AA with the P1D-CE for the L2D-CE review - but when I take those beamshots I can post them here too......"

vs. L2D-CE both on Turbo using Alkaline

The L2D-CE is noticably brighter - since there are 2x AA batteries to drive it.

Since the heads are the same - I changed them round and the relative difference remained about the same -
ie: 2xAA is brighter than 1xAA -
Nevertheless, the performance on a single AA alkaline is remarkable.

Thanks for the L2D beamshot Vincent.

Also, thanks for the tip to unscrew the reflector for adjusting the beam pattern.

I _really_ hope my L2D comes in the mail tomorrow.
Dale

Thanks, VT. I'm leaning again towards getting an L2D CE. It might even retire my TL3.

Well I have my L1DCE on the way and it looks like I most likely will be ordering an L2DCE as long as the runtime graphs are similar to the specs.

The L1D is incredibly bright as it is and the fact that its only 1 cell and thus a really small light outweighs the extra 30 lumens or so that a larger light puts out.

Having said that I will buy the L2D tube and CR123 tube for my L1D.

UnknownVT said:

I actually have a L2D-CE to hand also due to the kind courtesy of 4sevens (http://Fenix-Store.com).

Click to expand...

The Fenix-store specs state that the difference between High and Turbo on the L1D is +10 lumens and on the L2D it's +55 lumens. I can't see a visible difference between the two on my L1D. Is Turbo noticably brighter on the L2D?

paulr said:

I don't see how the L1D CE can perform the red flasher function the same way, since it has a white led while the red flashers are, as you say, red. And the red flashers usually point backwards while I think vehicle codes typically don't allow white lights to point backwards unless they're backup lights. Also, the red flashers use multiple red leds pointing in different directions, covered by a diffusing lens, for maximum visibility from different angles, while the L1D CE has a carefully engineered reflector that directs most of the light in a narrow cone (the hot spot). In addition, the red flashers can usually run dozens of hours on a battery while the L1D CE uses a lot more power, but wastes most of the energy by concentrating it into that narrow cone mentioned earlier. Finally, strapping an L1D CE to your helmet may impair the helmet's safety function since its job is to protect your head from impact by spreading the energy from a crash into the (flat) pavement. If there's a hard cylindrical thing strapped to the helmet at the point of impact, that can concentrate the energy in one place and make you more susceptable to injury. Of course it's still better than nothing. But you're maybe safer attaching the light to your bike (as is typical for those red flashers) instead of to your helmet.

Click to expand...

You are correct, the L1D CE is to be pointed forward to follow code and common sense. The white light will light your way at night and stobe is to be used to "wake up" drivers that are not paying attention to something smaller than a SUV. It has enough punch to be using during the DAY in strobe function when traveling busy streets. Nothing like a strobe to add extra visibility and the ability to point it in the direction were the idiots are.

I want the energy concentrated to a spot for maximum punch during the daytime hours and I want to point it via the helmet mount. Using it in strobe mode at night would probably fry my brain as I would have to look at the strobe. A quick strobe to signal my presence is enough and back to steady on for normal riding. Since I ride a recumbent bicycle, my handlebars are different as they rise up from besides my legs. The best option is mounting the light on a helmet for ease of switching in my case.

As far as safety goes, my setup has no additional impact problems due to the mount. The light pivots on small plastic pins to aim it correctly and if I crash, the pins sheer off when the light gets hit and the helmet functions normally. Sure, the light ends up somewere on the street but at $50, not too hard to replace (along with a helmet, mount, mirror, carbon visor and rear LED flasher on the helmet) All bicycle helmet mounts have the plastic pin safety device to allow the light to seperate from the helmet when hit. Lume lighting sells a mount for $15 although you have to add a piece to it to mount the flashlight correctly.

I use two red flashers, one mounted to my rear rack (10 LED Cateye LD1000) with the second Planet Bike 3 LED single AAA auto-leveling flasher mounted to the back of my helmet. Yes, the helmet flasher also pivots on plastic pins which will break off if the flasher gets hit. If I ever crash with my helmet, you will see a helmet light go one way, a flasher flying another, a carbon fiber visor and mirror going in another direction. I do get comments on my helmet setup all the time BTW :green:

Fenix will make a single level light with a Cree or SSC LED if there is enough demand. If not, there are all those other manufacturers that will. I did not see people rioting in the streets, babies crying or knashing of teeth when the two-level L1T replaced the L1P. The L1D CE is the same as the L1T (but a lower low and a much higher high) do not press on the switch and use it as a clickie on-off.

I'm hoping the L1D CE I ordered from the Fenix-Store will arrive here in Hawaii tomorrow. Great news about being able to easily focus it and I assume eventually change the reflector when a better one becomes available.

One of the things that really attracted me to this light aside from the brightness on a single AA, was the flexibility it provides with all the available different levels and runtimes. I particularly like the available 20+ hours or so of runtime with a usable low setting which could be very useful in a disaster or survival situation or any situation where the power is out for an extended period. Just the kind of light I want to have on my travels in Third World countries. The interface sounds pretty darn nice to me.

With a light like an unmodded L1P, one would need many charged up batteries on hand to achieve that kind of runtime.

Part 2 - 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable 14500 (AA size)

Fenix L1D-CE on 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable 14500 - Turbo

vs. Fenix P1D-CE primary CR123A - High

The L1D-CE on 3.7V Li-Ion is defintitely brighter.

unfair... how about the P1D-CE also on 3.7V Li-Ion?

vs. Fenix P1D-CE 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable RCR123 - High

not surprisingly - pretty even.

vs. Fenix L2D-CE using 2x primary Lithium AA - Turbo

The L1D-CE is brighter.

Current draw -
3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable 14500
Open-circuit = 4.06V
Turbo = 0.69A
Low = 0.60A
Medium = 0.60A
High = 0.60A

Yes, that is correct - like the Fenix P1D-CE (link) I reviewed on 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable - with the battery freshly charged there is no difference between the 3 levels - Low, Medium and High - they all appear High - and I can't tell for certain that High seems about the same level as the Turbo.

The reasoning is that the L1D-CE uses a step-up cicuit to boost the regular 1.5V AA to the Vf of the Cree (LED).
When the input voltage (battery) exceeds the circuit's Vout (=Vf) the circuit effectively is by passed - so the light is basically on direct-drive.

P1D-CE behaved similarly on 3.7V Li-Ion - I thought all 3 of its levels looked the same - yet the current draw on Low and Medium were the same and lower than on High -
See Post #40 in my Fenix P1D-CE (link) review for its current draw -
Post #54 for current draw when the batteries were run down a bit.
Post # #57 for Mike_abcd's initial explanation.

Dang. At what voltage does it look like the light regains regulation and levels? It seems like the ideal cell would be a 3.2V nominal 14500 LiFePO4 (a size which doesn't exist in that chemistry, AFAIK). Do you think there's any easy way to get L2D-CE output in the L1D-CE package while still retaining regulation and levels?

How about a 3.0V 14500?

> Do you think there's any easy way to get L2D-CE output in the L1D-CE package
> while still retaining regulation and levels?

Yes, go with CR-V3 primary lithium. Brake it appart and you find 2 AA sized 3V lithiums.
It's not cheep but works well in my L1T.

/Alex

Part 3 - Stairway Beamshots

Please see "Practical" Beamshots? for directly comparable beamshots of lots of other flashlights.

Fenix L1D-CE on Turbo/brightest setting for all shots -

Alkaline .......................................................... NiMH


3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable 14500 .......................... Fenix P1D-CE on 3.7V Li-Ion Rechargeable RCR123

I always wonder if the L1D-CE with NiMH AA brighter than L1T/123 :naughty:, can you have a quick comparsion of the 2 Vicent? Thanx

Anyone knows the maximum voltage for Fenix L1D CE? I am planning to buy Fenix L1D CE but still want more info from you guys. I am planning to get L1D CE and running 3.0-3.7v on it, but I am worried about the led burning out because I am not sure if it could handle more than 3V.

Will a 123a fit in the battery tube, i'm thinking of just using 123a and just put spacer to power it at 3V?

UnknownVT

great beamshot!
is it possible for u to take some beamshot of the L1D CE in the Stairway without the reflector.
i like to see if the L1D CE will make a good flood light or not