complete list of all LED PR flange drop-in bulbs

Kostas,

Sorry, i thought you meant 2 cell bulb (SMJLED) vs 2-6 multi-cell cell bulb (TLE-1F).
But now i see you mean fixed focus vs adjustable focus.
I feel both points are valid.

John2551...thanks for these post. I have used some of the links to get dropins for my Maglites.

I'm very sad to report that the Dorcy bulb was very greenish. Not as green as the SBLs but still green. It was bright though, almost as bright as the TLE-1F.

I've been looking for a PR13 drop-in for generic 6V lanterns. So far it appears my options are TekTite LPR-113 and TerraLux TLE-1F. I read the earlier posts about the LPR-113 so it sounds like the TLE-1F (50 lumens) would probably be the better way to go (and I realize its polarity sensitive so I can't use it with negative-center lantern batteries). Any thoughts/opinions on this ? Any PR13 products I'm missing out on that are better than the TLE-1F ?

to RichW --


Don't forget the EverLED.


That even comes in a "reverse-polarity" model,
specifically for (some) lanterns.


Good luck in your search !

:candle:
_

RichW said:

I've been looking for a PR13 drop-in for generic 6V lanterns. So far it appears my options are TekTite LPR-113 and TerraLux TLE-1F. I read the earlier posts about the LPR-113 so it sounds like the TLE-1F (50 lumens) would probably be the better way to go (and I realize its polarity sensitive so I can't use it with negative-center lantern batteries). Any thoughts/opinions on this ? Any PR13 products I'm missing out on that are better than the TLE-1F ?

Click to expand...

Check the polarity of the lantern before buying a drop in. Many lanterns are reverse polarity and will not work with LED drop ins. Most drop ins require the +ve of the battery to go to the base of the bulb.
If your lantern is reverse polarity only the Terralux TLE-20 or the special Everled DIAMOND will work.

Thanks for the replies !

Here is what I have so far:

TekTite LPR-113 (1.6w, 6v) Luxeon Star LED $30
TLE-1F (1w, 50 lumens, 2-9v) $15
TLE-20 (25 lumens, 3-6v) $15 (reverse polarity capable)
EverLED Classic (1.2w, side-emitting Luxeon Star I) (1.5-9v) $40
EverLED Diamond (same as classic but reverse polarity) $40
EverLED Lambertian (Lambertian Luxeon I, non-focusable) (1.5-9v) $40

Observations:
Research on the LPR-113 shows some people mentioning low output.
I can't seem to find any lumens spec on the TekTite or the EverLED.

Conclusion (so far):
The best lumens/$$ ratio appears to be the TLE-1F. In a reverse-polarity scenario it appears the TLE-20 would be best though I would be down to a paltry 25 lumens...

It would be nice to find further data (lumens) on the EverLED and TekTite. One possible plus on the EverLED is it claims to have a very efficient DC-DC converter.

RichW said:

It would be nice to find further data (lumens) on the EverLED and TekTite. One possible plus on the EverLED is it claims to have a very efficient DC-DC converter.

Click to expand...

From flashlight reviews
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/everled.htm
2-D*>> 17.40*1.39=24 lumens
3-D**>> 23.50*1.39=32 lumens
4-D***>> 24.40*1.39=34 lumens

SMJLED PR
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/smjled_bulb.htm
10.66*1.39=15 lumens
(The old Lighthound version feels brighter than the TLE-20, maybe because of the more intense and whiter hotspot. The Sandwich Shoppe version is more yellow which makes it feel less bright.)

Tectite
LPR-3 (3 cell)
http://www.flashlightreviews.com/reviews/tektite_lpr-3.htm

flashlight reviews said:

On average, the bulb seems to produce about 1/3 the light produced by the normal incandescent bulb.

Click to expand...

That puts it in the 11 lumen range (using the incandecent #s from the Everled review).

LPR-113 (4 cell)
At least 2 CPF members have measured drain from the batteries at 100 mA.
At 1/3 watt this gives 10-14 lumens (luxeons run from 30-42 lumens/W). As this is a very old design for Tectite's plastic diving lights I suspect a Lux1 at 10 lumens.

LPR-2 (2 cell)
My LPR-2 is halfway in brightness between my LPR -113 & LPR-3.

As the Tectite bulbs are woefully underdriven, I got extra brightness by overdriving them. I put a LPR-3 in a 4 cell light using NiMH batteries. I am providing 5.4V>4.8V as opposed to 4.8V>3.6V from 3 alkalines. It is slightly brighter than a TLE-1F in a cieling bounce test.

My LPR-113 is sitting in a Dorcy Lantern.
I had a 4D version but gave it away

flashlight reviews said:

Now because this bulb sends most of its light out to the sides it really shines (pardon the pun) in battery operated lanterns where you WANT most of the light to go out to the sides. I found it works very well in a 4 cell AA Dorcy lantern.

Click to expand...

Rich,

I also agree that the Tektite bulbs are underdriven.

For a (-) polarity lantern, go with the EverLED diamond
For a (+) polarity lantern, go with the TLE-1F

OK, I did compare them all. The dorcy died after a few weeks. The dorcy had a wierd incan 4000k temp. tint. The color looked incan. not LED. It was the brightest but got the hottest & burned itself up. I put it in a 4D light & would shut off after a few minutes. It was BURNING hot! I then used it in a 2AA & would still get hot after a while. It finally gave up the ghost after a few weeks. I'm going to contact Dorcy & will advise how it goes. On the other hand the Terralux is the 2nd brightest, very white, perfect regulation, very bright with almost dead batteries, works just as good in a 2AA as well as a 4D. The TLE-1F is brighter than the SMJLED with better regulation. The SMJLED is good for a 2 cell only which limits it's applications but is very good for long power outages because it dims gradually over time. The TLE-1F stays bright until it shuts off. Hope this helps. The Dorcy bulb has a dome-shaped lens over a small square yellow emitter. Also it has exposed wires!! A blue exposed wire on one side & a yellow exposed wire on the other side.

If anyone finds a PR bulb with a newer technology emitter like Cree, SSC, K2, Rebel please let me know & i'll add it to the list.

How about the $5 Cree 2-cell drop-in at Battery Station, here:

http://www.batterystation.com/cpf1.htm

I have been tempted to try these, but it looks "too good to be true".

Edit: Doh! Thanks, hank, I did searches outside the thread, but was probably using two words for "battery station", and didn't read enough of the first page, I thought the bulb was newer than that.

On another note, for modding, I have found that the Sears Craftsman bulb for $15, 1-5 cells, discussed here: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/threads/155671&highlight=craftsman

is very easy to pop the LED off of and substitute a Seoul. Very bright, not much heat sinking, but not driving the LED too awfully hard, either. Time will tell if it lasts.

> batterystation
It was mentioned earlier in the thread, try thread search box.

I'm looking for an odd PR led insert, thought I'd ask if anyone might know if one exists and where I can get it.

I want a low output ( maybe 5 - 15 lumens) flood PR drop in for a two cell. The purpose is an emergency light with extremely long runtimes. I think the Arcmania at Lighthound may have the right output, but it has a tight beam pattern.

Gary123 said:

I'm looking for an odd PR led insert, thought I'd ask if anyone might know if one exists and where I can get it.

I want a low output ( maybe 5 - 15 lumens) flood PR drop in for a two cell. The purpose is an emergency light with extremely long runtimes. I think the Arcmania at Lighthound may have the right output, but it has a tight beam pattern.

Click to expand...

It's not odd at all. The arcmaina drop-in will work. I'd also like to recommend the niteize drop-in for C and D cell maglites. I purchased several from the local walmart to put in old plastic 2D flashlights that have accumulated through the years. You'll have to be careful though, the niteize drop-ins are made for a light that can focus. All the old lights I've put them in have a very ringy beam. This doesn't bother me though as the important thing is they will provide light when the power goes out and there are way to improve the beam. You might buy one of each and see which you like more.

> pop the LED off of and substitute a Seoul

Hondo, pictures? Sounds tempting. I wonder if the Dorcy would be equally easy to do this with, it's also for a wide range of voltage lights.

hank,

Not sure what is involved in getting under that metal shroud on the Dorcy, never had one - might be fairly easy to remove.

The Craftsman is blatantly open, with a blue (neg.) and yellow (pos.) wire up to the tabs on the LED. I just unsoldered the wires, pried under the edge of the Lux with a tiny screwdriver to pop it off, and scraped the ridge of old adhesive. A drop of Arctic Alumina adhesive to isolate the Seoul and resolder the wires and it is done. More than twice as bright on the same power consumption. Photonfanatic's Seoul's are top notch, but I have tried some DX ones that worked fine too.

If you want a "floody" beam, just use some of the fantastic diffusion film,
available from (former) CPF member, FastCar.


Truly great stuff !

Works wonders, with very little light loss. :twothumbs


Search for his UserName to find the thread.


(moderators: i hope this post is acceptable)

_

Dorcy -- also blue and yellow wires:
Does the Sears look like the same thing?

Here's the emitter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wossname/2180131048/

Side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wossname/2172603544/

hank said:

Dorcy -- also blue and yellow wires:
Does the Sears look like the same thing?

Here's the emitter:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wossname/2180131048/

Side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wossname/2172603544/

Click to expand...

The Dorcy and Craftsman upgrades are identical. Also sold at Kmart.