Tri-Rebel Star Flood Monster

KrisP

Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
331
Location
Melbourne, Australia
As far as I can see, a Shark/Remora (~196mA/490mA/980mA) or Maxflex(user configurable) would work if the LEDs were wired in series. Now that I think about it, I don't understand why I didn't do that :p

Maxflex is 20mm too :(
Shark is 19mm. Hmmm... Neither fit.
 

ambientmind

Enlightened
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
465
As far as I can see, a Shark/Remora (~196mA/490mA/980mA) or Maxflex(user configurable) would work if the LEDs were wired in series. Now that I think about it, I don't understand why I didn't do that :p

Maxflex is 20mm too :(
Shark is 19mm. Hmmm... Neither fit.

i'm not too familiar with those boards, but would they be able to drive 3 leds in series off of only 3.7V? i thought the input voltage needed to be higher than the total vf of the leds in order to drive them in series. :confused:
 

KrisP

Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
331
Location
Melbourne, Australia
They're boost boards so they boost a low input voltage to a high output voltage :)

I've used the Shark/Remora combo for 9AA(10.8v) to run 4 Seouls(~14v) and 2 Li-ion(7.4v) to run 3 Cree Q2(~11.1v). The Sandwich Shoppe sells the Shark & Remora separately or pre-connected. It's not cheap at $50 pre-connectd though. It can accept an input voltage for 2.7-20v.

I haven't used the Maxflex because TaskLED won't ship directly to Australia as they have an authorised Australian distributor who is unreliable and charges far too much :( This board seems to have quite a few more features though and is just one board rather than 2 board joined.

Regarding your question about 3 LEDs from one Li-ion... The Shark manufacturer recommends that the input voltage (at it's minimum) should be at least 1/3 of the total Vf output. So in theory, you're on the border or slightly below.
 
Last edited:

KrisP

Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
331
Location
Melbourne, Australia
The aspheric lens came... It would fit on top but it was too close to being in focus so I had 3 little square waffles and some light spill around each one. So I decided to grind the lip off the aspheric so that the lens would drop down into the head. This worked and made the beam out of focus.
Then I had to work out how to hold the lens insie the head... I could have glued it in, but I wanted to be able to remove it so I made up some spacers out of black plastic. So the lens sits in the head, there's a rubber o-ring on the top of the lens, then two plastic spacers on top then the bezel is screwed on. It's average work but the lens is now secure :)

The light...
309099549.jpg


309099548.jpg


My hand isn't that red. I had the camera on auto so for some reason I look red instead of white :confused:
309099546.jpg


This is on my ceiling in daylight. Camera all auto settings and both, the light and camera, in my hands.
309099550.jpg



My miserable attempt at outdoor beam shots... These were the closest to what it actually looked like. Low is useful in a pitch black room, but not much use outside with ambient light.

Control. Canon A95 - ISO-200, F2.8, Shutter 3.2s:
309125490.jpg


Lowest mode of tri-flupic: (I have no idea why the sky changed brightness as all setting were exactly the same)
309125488.jpg


Highest mode of tri-flupic:
309125487.jpg
 
Last edited:

KrisP

Enlightened
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
331
Location
Melbourne, Australia
I changed the flupic mode and was able to get some measurements... At level 1 of the flupic, it draws 19mA overall, that's the low pic above. At level 5 it draws about 510mA and at level 10, the high pic above, it draws 2.0A. The battery voltage was down to 3.8v, so the LEDs are no longer drawing 2.1A.
 

ambientmind

Enlightened
Joined
May 8, 2007
Messages
465
The aspheric lens came... It would fit on top but it was too close to being in focus so I had 3 little square waffles and some light spill around each one. So I decided to grind the lip off the aspheric so that the lens would drop down into the head. This worked and made the beam out of focus.
Then I had to work out how to hold the lens insie the head... I could have glued it in, but I wanted to be able to remove it so I made up some spacers out of black plastic. So the lens sits in the head, there's a rubber o-ring on the top of the lens, then two plastic spacers on top then the bezel is screwed on. It's average work but the lens is now secure :)

The light...
309099549.jpg


309099548.jpg


My hand isn't that red. I had the camera on auto so for some reason I look red instead of white :confused:
309099546.jpg


This is on my ceiling in daylight. Camera all auto settings and both, the light and camera, in my hands.
309099550.jpg



My miserable attempt at outdoor beam shots... These were the closest to what it actually looked like. Low is useful in a pitch black room, but not much use outside with ambient light.

Control. Canon A95 - ISO-200, F2.8, Shutter 3.2s:
309125490.jpg


Lowest mode of tri-flupic: (I have no idea why the sky changed brightness as all setting were exactly the same)
309125488.jpg


Highest mode of tri-flupic:
309125487.jpg
Very very cool! I like it a lot, i've always wondered what this would look like with an aspheric, and now I know! Great job! :thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Top