Surefire SW02 Switch Disassembly

starfiretoo

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Would like to know the disassembly procedure for the Surefire SW02 tailswitch. Hopefully without special tools. Thanks.
 

Size15's

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I don't know how to take one apart.
But, this thread may as well stay in this forum...
Somebody must have taken one apart...
 

leukos

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I haven't disassembled an SW02, but it looks like it disassembles as any SF clickie switch does. If you move the rubber shroud away from the rubber boot, you will notice a polymer retaining ring like the ones on other SF clickies. Probably a good pair of snap-ring pliers would do the trick, though I don't know if it can be removed without first removing the rubber shroud. The clickie internals should fall out once the retaining ring is removed.
 

defusion

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Size15's said:
I don't know how to take one apart.
But, this thread may as well stay in this forum...
Somebody must have taken one apart...
I believe the internals are exactly the same as the z48. i believe you did disassemble that one?
 

BBL

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The switch housing consists of two parts, as far as i can tell. That would be the place to start for disassembly.
 

donn_

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Stumped dissecting Z48/49/SW02 switch..

I'm trying to figure out how to remove the switch guts from the Z48/49 or SW02 Surefire tailcap.

First I wrestled off the rubber button shroud:

001-114.jpg


There's a small plastic collar around the button boot:

002-100.jpg


You can just see the 6 indentations around this collar, and with careful needlenose pliering can loosen and remove it:

003-72.jpg


The button boot pops right off, exposing the switch button:

004-70.jpg


This is where I'm stumped. There doesn't seem to be anyway to unscrew or otherwise remove the guts, either from the top:

005-42.jpg


Or the bottom:

006-36.jpg


Any ideas or experience?

Thanks in advance.
 

Armed_Forces

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Re: Stumped dissecting Z48/49/SW02 switch..

I don't see a 'persuasion' tool in your otherwise fine arsenal. A 10-12oz. model should be just about right.






..sorry, I couldn't resist. :p
 

donn_

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Re: Stumped dissecting Z48/49/SW02 switch..

The question has been answered elsewhere, and the 'persuader' was heat and a strapwrench.

The straight knurled section at the bottom of the assemply unscrews, allowing the guts to be screwed out from the bottom.

At least I learned how to open the top to replace the button boot.

The trick to removing the rubber shroud is a homemade oak screwdriver, so as to wiggle under the base, without scratching the surface.

The trick to replacing the shroud is to turn it inside out, and then unroll it back into place.
 

Armed_Forces

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Re: Stumped dissecting Z48/49/SW02 switch..

Excellent Donn.
How about adding some pics to your excellent description so that others searching for this solution will have a "how-to" of sorts? Just an idea.
 

donn_

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Re: Stumped dissecting Z48/49/SW02 switch..

All the pictures I took of the process are in the first post. The switch is back together again. The modification I was hoping for can't be done.
 

brunt_sp

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I'm adding another post to this old thread because upon using the search facility this is one of the few ones on this topic to come up.

I have dismantled a Z49 tailcap which seems an identical construction to the SW02.

You do not take it apart from the shroud end. Instead the base end (The 8mm wide knurled bit) unscrews from the rest of the body. I found I had to boil the whole tailcap in a bag for 5 minutes first. I managed it by clamping the 8mm knurled bit in the wooden jaws of my small Black and Decker Jobber vice. I then used a strap wrench on the main tailcap body and twisted. The switch assembly will then come out using an unscrewing action because the electrical contacts protude somewhat against the internal threads of the body.

I hope this helps members of the CPF community that are looking at modifying the SW02 so it will handle currents produced by a combination of the new range of IMR batteries and high power lamps.
 
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Solscud007

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thank you. I have yet to try it, but I think baking any flashlight parts in an oven will be a better idea than boiling. For the obvious reason that there is no risk of water getting into the components and since boiling water is 212 F or 100C

Ovens can go as low as 150 F so you could dial in boiling temp of about 200F and your light will be dry.
 

DM51

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I've merged these 2 threads, as it seems brunt_sp has come up with the solution - excellent work!
 

leukos

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Sorry, donn_, for the misinformation about the retaining ring. It was only an educated guess :shrug:

This thread is helpful. I've been wanting to take the guts out of a Z48 and experiment with putting the LVR from an A2 in it to make a regulated tailcap. Maybe after Christmas.
 
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Greenbean

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Well, I tried really hard to get this stuck Z49 open and after letting it boil for over 20 minutes I was so pissed I just went after it with two pairs of channel locks, metal on metal and Holy Crap was it still tight.

I think a heat gun would've proved better,

Here are the guts...

I believe the post or cover over the post that keeps the guts in the switch allowing them to rotate is what failed. I emailed Surefire and they are sending my a "Current" whatever switch as these are long gone. :mecry:

The plastic piece broken off inside the larger section of the tailcap will not pull out or push out the front!



Yes and enjoy the thread bump of the Century!

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HarryN

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Thanks for posting the photos and experience.

Personally I think it is great that you found an older thread with related information and posted an update. It is so much better to have some topic continuity than a bunch of small threads with small bits of information on the same topic.

As far as softening the thread locker, if boiling water is not hot enough, consider to try some hot cooking oil as the temperature can be considerably higher. Also, sometimes thermal cycling will help, such as hot / cold dunks in boiling hot water / ice water. Be careful though to not let water drops fall into hot oil - they super heat and blow hot oil all over the place.
 
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