Pelican M6 parts compatibility

I see a lot of people describe the Pelican M6 as a "6P knock-off" (though I don't think they mean any disrespect to pelican). Is it simply a workalike or a true clone? What surefire parts will work with it? I saw one post stating a Z48 clickie tailcap will work, but what about KL3, turboheads, etc?

Thanks.

They both are Al and use 2x123 cells to power an incandescent. Similarities pretty much end there. The only thing compatable between the two would be the batteries. The design and components are very different.

- Don

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tylerdurden said:
I see a lot of people describe the Pelican M6 as a "6P knock-off" (though I don't think they mean any disrespect to pelican). Is it simply a workalike or a true clone? What surefire parts will work with it? I saw one post stating a Z48 clickie tailcap will work, but what about KL3, turboheads, etc?

Thanks.

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Tyler,

The surefire clickie will work on the Pelican, however even though the standard Surefire turn-push tailcap will thread on the Pelican it will either not work at all or will not work reliably and I strongly advise against its use. It's too bad because it is significantly lighter than the Pelican tailcap and at 5.8oz the M6 is no lightweight to begin with.

Unfortunately, no Surefire bezel, adapter or collar is compatible with the Pelican, and even if the threads fit (which they don't) the radically different designs would render the light nonfunctional.

To sum up: the only Surefire part that will function normally on a Pelican M6 is the clickie tailcap, though this combination is too new to have proven its reliability. Bear in mind that the clickie will add about 1/2" to an already long light.

I should add that I have three PM6's and after doing a long in-depth review I consider it to be a flawed but very impressive light.

Brightnorm

Oops,

Thanks Brightnorm and I stand corrected! I don't have my M6 anymore so I couldn't check the tail end out. This really surprises me as the threads of the LA appear to be metric. I faked it successfully with 36 TPI but assumed the real thread was 20mm X .07. Interesting..........

- Don

If your simply looking to add a clickie to the PM6, check out the FlashlightLens.com's Kroll switch kit for $15. You swap out the standard switch guts for the mod switch without any alteration in appearance or dimensions. There's also the bonus of an approx. 1 oz. savings in weight.

No, you don't gain the cachet of adding a cool SF component (kind of like gluing Lexus badges on a Corolla...), but it's priced right, and it works.

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sotyakr said:
If your simply looking to add a clickie to the PM6, check out the FlashlightLens.com's Kroll switch kit for $15. You swap out the standard switch guts for the mod switch without any alteration in appearance or dimensions. There's also the bonus of an approx. 1 oz. savings in weight.

No, you don't gain the cachet of adding a cool SF component (kind of like gluing Lexus badges on a Corolla...), but it's priced right, and it works.

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Sotyakr,

How do you like that clickie? Have you found it to be reliable and easy to use? I've heard mixed reports so your input would be helpful.

Thanks,
Brightnorm

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McGizmo said:
Oops,

Thanks Brightnorm and I stand corrected! I don't have my M6 anymore so I couldn't check the tail end out. This really surprises me as the threads of the LA appear to be metric. I faked it successfully with 36 TPI but assumed the real thread was 20mm X .07. Interesting..........

- Don

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Don,

I was puzzled as to why the clickie worked so much better than the turn-push. A regular SF switch on the PM6 would really lighten it up and make it slightly shorter.

Brightnorm

[ QUOTE ]
sotyakr said:
...check out the FlashlightLens.com's Kroll switch kit for $15. You swap out the standard switch guts for the mod switch without any alteration in appearance or dimensions. There's also the bonus of an approx. 1 oz. savings in weight.

[/ QUOTE ]


I have one on the way, review to come eventually...

The Kroll clickie works great. Just make sure to tighten the cap well, or else the clickie won't work.

--dan

So far, I'm very happy with the clickie in my PM6. It works perfectly with stock rubber switch boot. As dano mentioned, the tailcap does need to be tightened snugly. This seems to be more of an issue (at least with mine) if the lockout has been employed (which I normally don't use anyway). My only wish would have been the addition of some sort of locking ring to secure the switch assembly in the tailcap. Although the switch doesn't fall out easily with the tailcap removed, there's nothing really holding it in. I'm sure there are easy user concocted workarounds for this.

Newly improved Kroll switch housings (incl. new Kroll clicky) are available here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253891017654
https://www.ebay.com/itm/253940553397

Requires stock boot to work.
BTW anyone knows how to request for (or order) replacement switch boots? They tend to wear out in the long run.