Here's a warranty voiding and time consuming way to swap the XP-G on the new style HDS EDC lights if you'd like a different tint.
My first attempt on a Golden Dragon based board failed miserably but I learned from that adventure. This method would probably also work on the GD boards if anyone knows where to find some neutral GDs. (please post a link if you do!)
Before proceeding I'd recommend using some type of hobby vise and a magnifying lamp.
If you have great vision you can skip the lamp, but a vise is great for keeping things from getting away from you.
The board has some compound around the perimeter and over the screws, this comes off easy with a stylus or other soft-tipped pointy thing.
Sharpened a paper clip and bent the end to get under one of the edges then slowly worked the board up and out by moving the iron between the 3 solder points. I didn't have any luck getting the solder out with my normal methods as the solder points are TINY and the board does a great job of drawing heat away to the head.
All traces of solder have to be removed from the holes in the board on from the pins that go in them as there is very little slop and the board won't go back on unless both the pins and the holes are solder-free.
Slap your favorite tinted emitter on, a dab of thermal paste below the emitter, carefully put the board back on, (you might need to adjust the posts to go in the holes), solder the 3 points and you're done.
My first attempt on a Golden Dragon based board failed miserably but I learned from that adventure. This method would probably also work on the GD boards if anyone knows where to find some neutral GDs. (please post a link if you do!)
Before proceeding I'd recommend using some type of hobby vise and a magnifying lamp.
If you have great vision you can skip the lamp, but a vise is great for keeping things from getting away from you.
The board has some compound around the perimeter and over the screws, this comes off easy with a stylus or other soft-tipped pointy thing.
Sharpened a paper clip and bent the end to get under one of the edges then slowly worked the board up and out by moving the iron between the 3 solder points. I didn't have any luck getting the solder out with my normal methods as the solder points are TINY and the board does a great job of drawing heat away to the head.
All traces of solder have to be removed from the holes in the board on from the pins that go in them as there is very little slop and the board won't go back on unless both the pins and the holes are solder-free.
Slap your favorite tinted emitter on, a dab of thermal paste below the emitter, carefully put the board back on, (you might need to adjust the posts to go in the holes), solder the 3 points and you're done.