Judco/Kroll Switches

I'm just about to receive a Malkoff flashlight with the older style Judco/Kroll switch. I'm curious where I can get more of these switches? I see judco here http://www.judco.net/PButton.htm but I don't know what particular switch was used in the days before the McClickie, what rubber boot was used and so on. My searches have failed to yield useful results.

Thanks for any info about these. I'd like to find parts or replacement switch assemblies.

One piece body or body with separate tail cap?

If it's the one piece body, the kroll switch can be bought at "The Sandwich Shoppe"

This light has the removable tailcap. Thanks for that source though. They have this http://theledguy.chainreactionweb.com/product_info.php?products_id=65 but if it is a Kroll switch (not a judco) than I guess it isn't what I'm looking for. I don't know all of the details about these switches, but I read that the judco is a more reliable switch. Is that true?

err I see that that switch is out of stock. Any more info about the Judco's is very welcome!

I have a few of the switches floating around the shop. Please feel free to give me a call or drop me an email.

Gene Malkoff

Kroll Tailcap Switch are available at the Sandwich Shoppe. Yes they are the original switch.

Ms_SS said:

Kroll Tailcap Switch are available at the Sandwich Shoppe. Yes they are the original switch.

Click to expand...

Only 31 left as we speak, any chance more will be available?

Also does anyone know where to order replacement boots? That rubber boot is of mid-average quality only and wears out after a few years, leaving the perfectly working switch internal behind (which is a waste).

If however the rubber boot cannot be ordered as standalone then perhaps I may have it custom-cloned. Anyone interested? The resulting boot clone could be made of better quality silicone and might also be offered in GITD version......

Make that 27... just ordered four while I still can.

bykfixer said:

Make that 27... just ordered four while I still can.

Click to expand...

I'll probably take 10 when I place a new SS order by Fall.

So there seems to be some demand for this switch as the original inventory was around 400 (??) units a few years back, if I remember correctly. But how true is that? Also, how many folks here are still clinging to their MagAAs and Jils that utilize this switch, and how many boots have they actually worn out leaving the bare internals lying around, over these years?

And more importantly, if I have the boots made, would they be sold easily?

Any take on this?

I have a non working clicky in a silver Pelican 2320 and read a long time ago the Kroll was the solution.

Being I have a few 2320's I figured a few Krolls were in order for the eventual issue that plagues the Peli-tail.

bykfixer said:

I have a non working clicky in a silver Pelican 2320 and read a long time ago the Kroll was the solution.

Being I have a few 2320's I figured a few Krolls were in order for the eventual issue that plagues the Peli-tail.

Click to expand...

Ah, the Peli M6/M3. I too have the 2320 and find that the retail version has much better click actuation feel than the ones in bulk/unmarked box packaging. The click actuation on the bulk M6s feel a bit hollow so to speak.

AFAIK in order for the Kroll clicky to work on the M6/M3 you'll need the custom aluminum housing from the SS. However it can only be ordered with the bare Kroll pre-installed, and it's expensive. I'll nevertheless order a few of these as I foresee myself nabbing a few M3 (3370) later in the year (blame Lumens Factory for having made such EXCELLENT XPL/2 module to resurrect these ancient Pelis...).

Oh BTW he Z41 McClicky kit is NOT compatible with this Peli tail. Not sure why?

Thanks for the info.

If it were not a silver body I'd just add a Malkoff tailcap as it fits correctly.

Note the 'B' for blemished.

Maybe I'll just de-anodize one for kicks n giggles.

Edit: Flashlightlens also has some 'sleeves' for the Kroll. Yup $8 each is pricey. He now shows 11 left. The link to buy switches takes you to 'theledguy' which is the SS. So I suppose that's possibly where the SS gets his stuff from to assemble the kit? Link to install instructions no worky btw. End edit.

bykfixer said:

Thanks for the info.

If it were not a silver body I'd just add a Malkoff tailcap as it fits correctly.

Note the 'B' for blemished.

Maybe I'll just de-anodize one for kicks n giggles.

Edit: Flashlightlens also has some 'sleeves' for the Kroll. Yupe $8 each is pricey. He now shows 11 left. The link to buy switches takes you to 'theledguy' which is the SS. So I suppose that's possibly where the SS gets his stuff from to assemble the kit? Link to install instructions no worky btw. End edit.

Click to expand...

Thx for the FFL reminder, totally forgot about the said sleeve being available standalone. Not cheap but at least not as bad as the completed switch assy listed at a hefty $19 at the SS. Again I'll nab as many sleeves as possible upon my next FFL order.

Back when I acquired said silver M6 fll showed the sleeves, but said sold out, that and nobody seemed to have the actual switch.

This weekend, this thread rekindled a search and I lucked up.

Thanks again cpf.

bykfixer said:

Flashlightlens also has some 'sleeves' for the Kroll. Yupe $8 each is pricey. He now shows 11 left. The link to buy switches takes you to 'theledguy' which is the SS. So I suppose that's possibly where the SS gets his stuff from to assemble the kit? Link to install instructions no worky btw. End edit.

Click to expand...

Truth to be told I did get one such switch assy from a previous SS order. Just one for tries, before I decide to order more. Now I know I don't have to...

This morning I examined the said switch assy again and find that the switch can be threaded through the sleeve from one opening to the other. Question: how much should the bare Kroll mecha be screwed into the aluminum sleeve? Should the bottoms (ie. spring side) be lined up, or should only the clicky plunger itself protrude out of the sleeve?

yazkaz said:

Truth to be told I did get one such switch assy from a previous SS order. Just one for tries, before I decide to order more. Now I know I don't have to...

This morning I examined the said switch assy again and find that the switch can be threaded through the sleeve from one opening to the other. Question: how much should the bare Kroll mecha be screwed into the aluminum sleeve? Should the bottoms (ie. spring side) be lined up, or should only the clicky plunger itself protrude out of the sleeve?

Click to expand...

... the said switch assy ... .

I have little or no knowledge when it comes to flashlight mechanisms. I'm just trying to learn.

Am I missing something here? Is it really NOT a switch assembly? It sounds as if the poster is calling it an "alleged switch assembly."

Why is the poster referring to it as " the said switch assy?"








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mickeyfinn said:

... the said switch assy ... .

I have little or no knowledge when it comes to flashlight mechanisms. I'm just trying to learn.

Am I missing something here? Is it really NOT a switch assembly? It sounds as if the poster is calling it an "alleged switch assembly."

Why is the poster referring to it as " the said switch assy?"








​:

Click to expand...

"Said switch assy" = Custom aluminum sleeve + bare Kroll clicky internal

BTW tailcap assy = tailcap host + switch internals

yazkaz said:

"Said switch assy" = Custom aluminum sleeve + bare Kroll clicky internal

BTW tailcap assy = tailcap host + switch internals

Click to expand...

Yes, I get that.

But why do you call it "the said switch assembly?"

Is it not really a switch assembly?

... "said switch assembly" implies it's somehow NOT a switch assembly.

It sounds like something a lawyer would say to show that something IS NOT REALLY what it is represented to be.

Example: The "said new automobile" was actually a used vehicle on which the dealership had turned back the odometer.

See what I mean?

The kroll switch and a custom sleeve becomes a combination that becomes an assembly.

The conversation began as a switch (not switch assembly) for fixing a Malkoff and I appologize for taking it off track discussing a switch assembly from the Sandwich Shoppe for another brand of light... the "said assembly" refers to the Pelican version theledguy builds to get our busted 2320's working again.

Yak can elaborate why he tossed in the word "said".

Meanwhile hopefully we can later learn if Gene ended up supplying the said switch for the Malkoff or if it came from the SS.

mickeyfinn said:

Yes, I get that.

But why do you call it "the said switch assembly?"

Is it not really a switch assembly?

... "said switch assembly" implies it's somehow NOT a switch assembly.

It sounds like something a lawyer would say to show that something IS NOT REALLY what it is represented to be.

Example: The "said new automobile" was actually a used vehicle on which the dealership had turned back the odometer.

See what I mean?

Click to expand...

Websearch for "said meaning" ... first listed link is Cambridge English Dictionary ... second definition listed for "said" ...

said - adjective (before noun) UK /sed/ US /sed/ specialized
"used before the name of a person or thing you have already mentioned"
Example - The said Joseph Brown was seen outside the house on the night of 15 January.

-- -- -- -- --

Not every single thing needs to generate an argument ...

bykfixer said:

Meanwhile hopefully we can later learn if Gene ended up supplying the said switch for the Malkoff or if it came from the SS.

Click to expand...

I know little (to none) about Gene's tailcap host so my question is, how does the internal spec compare to the original Z41? Can you just screw a generic Z41 McClicky kit inside, or it's simply not possible (as in the case of the Peli tailcap host) such that the sleeved Kroll is required?

Also any pics on gene's tailcap (top and bottom sides)? That would be much appreciated.

BTW is Gene's tailcap host in HAII or HAIII? Looks HAII to me from your pic. Also is your black M6 in HAIII hard black, or otherwise?