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((( Surefire SW-02 tailswitch with XPG-2 )))

dmoore

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
205
Location
Washington State
So I have an original Surefire SW02 tail that I decided to try out on my Oveready light with XPG-2 HML dropin (pictured)
The SW02 doesn't seem to want to play with the O/R dropin.
It comes on high for about 30 sec. then drops to medium.
Are the original Surefire guts of the SW02 not as worthy as the Mcclicky.
Is there a fix for this?
I can take some pictures of the SW02 internals if it helps.
If there isn't a cure for the SW02 I may just sell it as I was hoping to build another light which would consist of a Nichia dropin.
Any help would be most appreciated
P1080521_zpsb12fa3fe.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]
 
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Cerealand

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Oct 30, 2011
Messages
1,667
So I have an original Surefire SW02 tail that I decided to try out on my Oveready light with XPG-2 HML dropin (pictured)The SW02 doesn't seem to want to play with the O/R dropin.It comes on high for about 30 sec. then drops to medium.Are the original Surefire guts of the SW02 not as worthy as the Mcclicky.Is there a fix for this?I can take some pictures of the SW02 internals if it helps.If there isn't a cure for the SW02 I may just sell it as I was hoping to build another light which would consist of a Nichia dropin.Any help would be most appreciated
P1080358_zps7a056fdb.jpg
I believe the SW02 can handle at least 5 AMPS, so the tailcap may not be the problem. I do have a similar situation; my Torchlab Nichia 219 H3N drop-in only last about 20-30 second on high with a bored c3 before it drops to low. Beside being bored, everything else is stock (twisty tailcap). The drop-in works fine in my 6p with a McClicky, but I never spent the time to see why the drop-in acts the way it does in both my c3 and a LEEF 2x18650 flashlight. The LEEF host has a SW02 tailcap.
 
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Cerealand

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Oct 30, 2011
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Perhaps it is the thermal cutoff ;)When the board is too hot it lowers the output at 10%
I thought about that, but 30 seconds seem to be pretty fast for termal cutoff to kick in. The high mode last for a few minutes in my 6p, so I had expected the drop-in to stay on high for at least a few minutes in a c3 or a 2x18650 host. I even have the giant M size cryos cooling bezel on my 2x18650 host.
 

dmoore

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Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
205
Location
Washington State
May have been 45 seconds or so before dropping to (M) but I swapped the SW02 multiple times with the Cronos standoff tailswitch.
Never had any problem with the standoff tail (stayed on (H)
 

Cerealand

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Oct 30, 2011
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I will have to test out the c3 with a clicky switch to see if it stay on high.
 

Moddoo

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Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Messages
1,243
Location
Minnesota
The Surefire switch is likely causing enough resistance in the circuit to enable the low voltage step down.
This step down is set to 10%. Medium mode is set to 30%. this should be a detectable difference in output.

Thermal step down will not occur until the light is uncomfortable to touch.

I no longer have any SW01 or SW02 to test with.

See this thread for more info on the disassembly.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?161444-Surefire-SW02-Switch-Disassembly

It seems unlikely that a mcclicky would work without a lot of customization.
 

ElectronGuru

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Aug 18, 2007
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Location
Oregon
I tried to take apart a SW02 once. Never again.

SW01 are like thick Z41, super easy and McClicky ready.
 

Cerealand

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Oct 30, 2011
Messages
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Thanks for the replies. I'll use a z41 modified with a McClicky tailcap to run the H3N in a C3.
 

Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
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1,243
Location
Minnesota
Here she is if you would like to giver her a look over and figure out what makes her tick or not tick right.

Nice work man.

Looks to be an off the shelf switch with parts manufactured to allow it to fit into the tailcap.

I can only guess that it either has dirty contacts, or the spring and other components simply are not built with low resistance in mind.

Are you brave enough to try to open the switch itself?
 

Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
Messages
1,243
Location
Minnesota
Uuummmmmmmmmmmm No.
Correction.
YES
Could this be the problem? (blob of grease on contact)

[/QUOTE]

Excellent
I hoped it would pop apart easily.

The grease is in there for a reason, but I would clean it up and deoxit all of the contacts and try it dry.
save the grease blob in case you want to return it to the original condition.
 

cland72

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Nov 23, 2009
Messages
3,276
I came in here expecting to see someone had installed an LED in a SW02 :naughty:

Best of luck, hope it turns out well. I'll be following your thread!
 

dmoore

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
205
Location
Washington State

Wiped off all grease on contact but didn't deoxit as I had proceded without seeing your reply.
I reassembled everything except the rubber shroud of course and had the same outcome.
What does this thing want? Larger contact surface, heavyer guage wire?
There must be a fix.
Next step?


The switch looks to be a JudCo brand.
Maybe a fix could be had there?

P1080520_zps9cfd82cb.jpg
 
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Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
Messages
1,243
Location
Minnesota

Wiped off all grease on contact but didn't deoxit as I had proceded without seeing your reply.
I reassembled everything except the rubber shroud of course and had the same outcome.
What does this thing want? Larger contact surface, heavyer guage wire?
There must be a fix.
Next step?


The switch looks to be a JudCo brand.
Maybe a fix could be had there?

you could try bridging the spring.
Sometimes SF uses stainless steel springs.

Some folks use solder braid for this, but if it is stainless, soldering to it may be impossible.
 

dmoore

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Joined
Nov 24, 2009
Messages
205
Location
Washington State
I hate to bail on this project but if I was to ever use this on a weapon light which I very well may the reliability factor would be a nil so I think I am going to leave it all stock, reassemble and sell to somebody that will use it on a compatable system.
I'm going to be looking at getting a Triad for the new build in the near future anyhow so that should be a nice setup.
 

Moddoo

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Nov 19, 2008
Messages
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Location
Minnesota
I hate to bail on this project but if I was to ever use this on a weapon light which I very well may the reliability factor would be a nil so I think I am going to leave it all stock, reassemble and sell to somebody that will use it on a compatable system.
I'm going to be looking at getting a Triad for the new build in the near future anyhow so that should be a nice setup.


Thanks for sharing some info with the community anyways.

We will get you guys set up with Triads pretty soon.
 

el_Pablo

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Joined
Nov 4, 2005
Messages
316
Location
South Korea / Switzerland
first time for me that i see the internal switch of the SW02/Z48.

Looks robust, what other people think about the internal mecanic of the switch itself?

Btw, thanks for sharing the pictures!
 
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