Another DR MR11 HID upgrade

Bill D

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Hello all,


I have posted some information on a diving board about upgrading my DR MR11 Hid light head and was given some names of people who make some nice lights. Yes, Packhorse was one the names given to me. I have reached out to Packhorse and several others but was really hoping I could turn this into a DIY project (with assistance).



During my research about HID and LED dive lights I found my way here. From reading post on here and being given some direction from Pack Horse it appears a good option for a good tight beam for signaling and the best punch is the XM-L single emitter with a Ahorton 28mm lens.

I am using a 12v 4.5ah battery pack. I has a burn time of about 3.5 hours.



For now here are some questions.

  • Where do I buy the Ahorton 28 mm lens. I have only seen Ahorton 27.2mm lens for sale on here. (prefer not to buy from China)
  • Is this Cree XM-L recommended? Cree XML - Cool-White High Power LED
  • Which driver? I have seen the ones that appear to be coming from China but would like to stay away from them (not sure of quality). I have read a Taskled drive would work well. How about this one? http://www.taskled.com/h6cc.shtml
  • Heatsink – make one that is at least 20mm's long; more if possible. I have a lathe so this part should not be too hard.
If I can build this one then maybe I will attempt to build one for clear waters with more spill.



Thanks

Bill
 

Packhorse

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27.2mm Ahorton is the same.

I use a 3amp 3 mode chinese driver. I have blown a few up, mainly when I mod them to single mod I think. But they are so cheap its not an issue. Dont think I have ever had one fail in use.

If you have a lathe then just machine up a rod/disk of aluminium that only just fits in the light head. As long as its a good fit it will transfer the heat well. Make it 0.2mm too small and it wont work well. Thickness isnt that important. any thing more than 10mm should be fine.
 

Packhorse

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NO, its only $5
I buy some stuff from Kaidomain, mainly DX.com they seem fine. But you never really know if the LED is the right BIN or not.
 

Bill D

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Found these which seem to match what you described. I will order several in case I do something to mess one up. http://dx.com/p/6-18v-3000ma-3-mode-circuit-board-for-xm-lt60-emitters-57779

Now if I remember right I read somewhere on this forum, you were able to disable the modes so there was only off or on. I will do a search to see what I find.

Unless you are turning the switch on and off really quick then it does not switch modes; is this right?

I will order the LED emitter from a local store and hope it is the right BIN.
 

jspeybro

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that driver is sold out. there's another similar one though: http://dx.com/p/t6-2500-3000ma-3-mo...rcuit-board-for-diy-flashlight-4-5-18v-128269
mind you that the current from this type of drivers is often a bit overrated. you'll likely get a current that is on the lower end of what they say.
Perhaps some modding may solve that, but their quite decent drivers so it's a good start.

i think the 28mm ahortons were the initial version, untill someone mentionned that it would fit alot more hosts if it was just a little bit smaller.
you can get the newer ones via here: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...rton-lenses-coming-soon&p=4316066#post4316066

I also offer some fresnel lenses that are a bit cheaper (see signature)

Johan
 

DIWdiver

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If you are having fit problems, the Fresnel lenses are a great option. Not quite as good as the Ahorton, but very close. And very thin, only 2mm!

I just got my second batch of them, because my buddies and I like my light so much I had to make some more!
 

Packhorse

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that driver is sold out. there's another similar one though: http://dx.com/p/t6-2500-3000ma-3-mo...rcuit-board-for-diy-flashlight-4-5-18v-128269
mind you that the current from this type of drivers is often a bit overrated. you'll likely get a current that is on the lower end of what they say.

Thats the one.
Never measured current at the LED but input always seems to be about 10w (1 amp at 10volt on power supply).


You can mod them to single mode by removing the 8 pin MCU and soldering a bridge in its place from the top left pad to the 2nd from top pad on the right.
 
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Bill D

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Johan thanks for providing me another option for a driver and lens. I read that these drivers do not always deliver what they say. Now unless someone with experience can help with the modding then I may have to accept what they deliver. Since this is my first attempt I may be fine with what I get and it is a starting point. I have order several Ahorton lens but I will read the link you provided. I have some other dive lights that I would like to upgrade so I may need your lens for those. Man this could be additive.

DIWdiver - what light are you using the Fresnel lenses in?

Packhorse thanks for the information. I think I know what you mean but pretty sure I will need to follow up once I have the driver in my hand.

I really appreciate the assistance.
 

Bill D

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Can someone please point me to a location that is trust worthy to purchase the xml. The one I linked is now out of stock. I looks like there are a lot sites outside the USA that sell them and in the USA you have to purchase in bulk.

if you want to give it a try, there's some info on the mods of the driver here, but I never tried it myself:
http://club.dx.com/forums/forums.dx/threadid.1253210

thanks for the link
 

DIWdiver

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LEDsupply.com is in the US. I've had success with them. That's assuming you want them mounted on stars.

If you want just the emitter, you can get them from digikey or mouser, or any of a number of others.
 

Bill D

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LEDsupply.com is where I was hoping to order but the XM-L T6 cool white is out of stock. What is the difference of the XML2? They have the XML2 in cool white. Is Cool white the best selection for my purpose?
 
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DIWdiver

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Color temperature is a subjective choice. Cool white gives you more light, but neutral or warm gives better color (at least at short range).

The XM-L2 is the second generation of the XM-L. It will give higher output under the same conditions. It's a better part, and you shouldn't hesitate to use it instead of the XM-L. In fact, you should prefer it.
 

Bill D

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Thanks for the spoon feeding! Items have been order so now I will browse this site with hopes of learning more.
Your flashlight project seemed pretty cool. Do u trust it as a backup in caves?

Sent by using my Infected Nusense Thunderbolt
 

Bill D

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LED arrived yesterday. Still waiting on the others parts.
I also found out last night it is time for a new battery pack. Should upgrade to newer technology or just build a pack like the one that came with it (4.5). Oh this is the slim can.

Sent by using my Infected Nusense Thunderbolt
 

Bill D

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Today I realized my charger appears to be the issue. It isn't sending any current to the battery pack.

Sent by using my Infected Nusense Thunderbolt
 
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