It's an awesome knife!
Benchmade factory angles usually aren't too bad, but like most production knives they are not going to be 100% consistent. The edge itself is going to have an uneven angle for the purpose of edge length being the same physical length, by modifying the angle on the upsweep and tip (on a fixed angle, the edge of the belly/upsweet/tip is going to be physically longer than the edge on the straight of the knife.) While some people prefer the cosmetics of a completely even edge length (& uneven angle to have this), it can make sharpening a pain and often means the tip area is not going to cut the exact same as the rest of the knife (usually it will not be as sharp as the rest.) In most cases with my Benchmades, I stay pretty close to the factory angle of the straight portions of the blade, and simply apply that angle to 100% of the knife (resulting in a slightly uneven edge length, which I don't mind at all given the performance gain and greater ease of upkeep.) That dramatically will improve slicing ability.
Going outright for a thinner edge is an option, but arguably it is going to mean you will lose some of the knife's ability for heavier usage (which is is designed for) and you are removing a good bit of steel for gains that will be pretty marginal. It is also worth noting that some knives in D2 have a relative toughness that makes them less fit for a super thin edge...I have not used Benchmade D2 enough to be able to speak on that specifically, but D2 can vary pretty substantially in this department. I also tend to stick to the philosophy that before fully reprofiling, it's worth pushing the factory angle as hard as it can be before changing it...and in most cases, that means it needs a little work even when brand new...
With wherever the knife is in terms of its current sharpness and slicing ability (via a fresh factory edge), it can most likely be improved substantially even if the angle is unchanged. Often, makers ship knives with edges that still have a tiny bit of a bur on them...while very minor in terms of physical differences, the performance difference is very dramatic and once the bur is removed, the knife will perform much better. In most cases, simple stropping will do this and take a reasonably sharp factory edge to a razor sharp edge. If the factory knife has a more noticeable bur on it tho (some factory knives do, some don't), fine ceramic stones will likely be needed first to remove more of the bur before the final alignment of a strop/steel/polish/etc to finish the edge. Being this is a higher hardness D2 knife, the process of sharpening/finishing itself will take longer as D2 is a very wear resistant steel. I am willing to bet that you will see dramatic improvements with a strop, perhaps a stropping paste, and a little time...it's quite easy to do as I am the most unskilled person in the world and if I can do it...
Another option would be grinding a relief angle for a double bevel on the edge (i.e. you grind a secondary edge on the edge.) Doing so really requires something like an EdgePro or WickedEdge, but once the angle is set up, this is an extremely easy setup for upkeep. Some people love this and others hate it.
But if it were me and I had to choose a single route, it would be stropping as it is the easiest to do, the cheapest, and is the least dramatic in terms of physical changes to the knife/removal of steel. I think you will get really good outcomes with just that. Hope this helps!