A single cell "G2 shorty" Surefire. Has anyone does this mod?

tobrien

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so I was on eBay just now searching "malkoff" and I saw an auction where a guy milled a G2-BK Nitrolon into a single 16340 formfactor light:

I thought modding G2 bodies wasn't really possible, but this looks like it's legit (see pics below). Who all has done this type of mod? It might be a pretty good think to do if you add a Z-series combat grip ring to the body IMO.

This auction is for a custom length SUREFIRE G2 " SHORTY " . This was a standard Surefire G2 . The body of the light has been shortened by removing a section approximately 33mm in length . This work was done on a lathe . The metal liner was also shortened , but remains one piece , running the length of the body tube . The metal liner is flared on both ends like the factory full length liner . Tail cap is the older short version ( momentary push off / on , or twist for constant on / off ) . The included LED is a UltraFire XM-L 3 mode ( high , low , strobe ) . Light works great with this LED , but would really benefit from a MALKOFF M-31 . Overall this flashlight shows some light use with a few light usage marks on the exterior . This size flashlight is a great EDC . The last photo shows a full length G2 for comparison only . I am only selling his light because I have a few others that are similar . Please ask any questions before bidding . Ships via USPS priority insured to the U.S. .

if you can't find it, here are the pics (mods: I resized and rehosted the eBay pics to my Dropbox :))

g2-shorty-1.jpg

g2-shorty-2.jpg

g2-shorty-3.jpg

g2-shorty-4.jpg

g2-shorty-5.jpg


edit: I'm gonna go out on a limb and predict that this was a CPFer mod haha
 

Tana

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Oh, wow... that thing is CUTE... like G1Z... and pretty interesting solution - middle section cut out and then two ends joined together with hardly seen seam in the middle... add some light-weight loooong running P60 module and pretty cool all around light... :)
 

tobrien

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Oh, wow... that thing is CUTE... like G1Z... and pretty interesting solution - middle section cut out and then two ends joined together with hardly seen seam in the middle... add some light-weight loooong running P60 module and pretty cool all around light... :)

oooooh good eye spotting the seam in the middle. nice
 

m4a1usr

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Oh, wow... that thing is CUTE... like G1Z... and pretty interesting solution - middle section cut out and then two ends joined together with hardly seen seam in the middle... add some light-weight loooong running P60 module and pretty cool all around light... :)

Since the inner steel liner is needed for any of the Nitrolon series to function properly I'm curious what method of "connectivity" the guy used? I guess he could have cut down the outer section far enough to leave a metal section with enough length to finish the OAL, then cut off the outer end piece, push out the remaining metal liner and flare the back section once joined. That would make sense.

I might have to build one myself. Not that I need one. Heck a FiveMega one cell body does the same thing?
 
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Illum

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edit: I'm gonna go out on a limb and predict that this was a CPFer mod haha


yeah.... way back in 2009 its been done, first by peite.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?222380-Surefire-mini-G2

I still don't see how the circled part is put together. I can see that the OP logs in every now and then but stays silent on this great mod.

yellow-g2%20head.jpg

yes..

The metal sleeve insert in originally G2
Thanks, Bill

6110.jpg

627.jpg

631.jpg


my another mini surefire...lovecpf


schiesz later followed with this

Ok, well, its not the prettiest thing i've ever seen, but I got the G1 working.







No lathe here, so it was all just done with a hacksaw and dremel. The insert I used was from the AN14, and all I did was cut the flared end off right at its edge. This length appears to work perfectly.

POLICE_STATE in 2012 went even further
1 Surefire G2
1 Lumens Factory EO-4
1 AW 18350
1 Heck of a lot of work

IMAG0299.jpg
 
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m4a1usr

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"No lathe here, so it was all just done with a hacksaw and dremel. The insert I used was from the AN14, and all I did was cut the flared end off right at its edge. This length appears to work perfectly"

Very interesting. The cats out of the bag.
 

scout24

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Pics when I get home, but this was easier than I thought. I left the head end solid, and did all the work from the tailcap end. Cut mid-body, cut tail end right where it steps down, slide that piece on, a bit of JB weld, and flare the metal tube. Used two impact sockets and a vice to do the flare, the taper of one socket was perfect. :) G1 done! I love this place...
 

scout24

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Pieces and parts. I STRONGLY discourage the Dremel, the Nitrolon just pretty much melts, even at low speeds. Hacksaw is much more effective. Metal tube cuts well with Dremel, however. EDIT- I used a reinforced fiber Dremel wheel, you may use something else and have better luck...
IMG_0124.jpg


Battery sitting right about where it would in a stock G2... Notice the flare on the tube. Nice soft thin tube, it was easier than I thought.
IMG_0125.jpg


Rocking a Malkoff M61W (and a McClicky kit from Oveready) on a single primary 123... :)
IMG_0128.jpg


I had so much fun with this, I'm doing another tomorrow at work, but cutting at the head end this time, a'la schiesz and police state, above. I'll post a pic or two of the flaring process I used. The JB weld holds nice, some gets smeared on the metal sleeve, so the bond should hold very well. The crimp plays a part, too, in keeping the tube from spinning if done tight enough.
 
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Illum

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:clap:
I can't help but to laugh seeing how the ashes of the G1 has reignited in new light. Back in 2009 there weren't much selections for a single cell P60 drop-in
 

scout24

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Agreed... So many LED-based P60's that work on one cell these days! I realize the M61W is not rated for the Nitrolon lights, but a single primary is at such a reduced output I feel comfortable with short runs. An RCR123 would be a different story, and require a lower output module. (Or an aluminum bezel...) Should have put this as a disclaimer in the above post, but figured if one was reading this thread, one was probably familiar with the Nitrolon/Malkoff manual of arms... :)
 

scout24

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At the risk of littering here in the thread, here's another from today, with my step-by-step...

G2, meet Mr. hacksaw...
IMG_0130.jpg



First two cuts, all the way around the light, CAREFULLY down to the metal liner tube.
IMG_0132.jpg


Slowly connect the two cuts at an angle.
IMG_0133-1.jpg


Pry apart carefully and remove small section you cut at an angle.
IMG_0134.jpg


Twist, and slide tailcap end of body towards the gap you made, and cut the flared end off to be able to remove body.
IMG_0136.jpg


Sand head end smooth and flat.
IMG_0137.jpg


Measure and cut long body section, re-assemble on metal battery tube.
IMG_0139.jpg


Mark tube, cut, and sand smooth and straight. Leave just enough to flare...
IMG_0140.jpg


Here's my flaring setup- chrome socket for support, black socket to make the flare when assembled on the light and squeezed in the vise.
IMG_0141.jpg


Flared!
IMG_0142.jpg


Assembled!
IMG_0144.jpg


Working!
IMG_0145.jpg


Some of the family for reference.
IMG_0147.jpg


A bit of JB weld on the tube and a decent crimp work wonders... I'm trying to decide if I need another one. Handles great, nice and light even with a Malkoff installed. Thanks for reading! :)
 

run4jc

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At the risk of littering here in the thread, here's another from today, with my step-by-step...

G2, meet Mr. hacksaw...



First two cuts, all the way around the light, CAREFULLY down to the metal liner tube.


Slowly connect the two cuts at an angle.


Pry apart carefully and remove small section you cut at an angle.


Twist, and slide tailcap end of body towards the gap you made, and cut the flared end off to be able to remove body.


Sand head end smooth and flat.


Measure and cut long body section, re-assemble on metal battery tube.


Mark tube, cut, and sand smooth and straight. Leave just enough to flare...


Here's my flaring setup- chrome socket for support, black socket to make the flare when assembled on the light and squeezed in the vise.


Flared!


Assembled!
IMG_0144.jpg


Working!
IMG_0145.jpg


Some of the family for reference.


A bit of JB weld on the tube and a decent crimp work wonders... I'm trying to decide if I need another one. Handles great, nice and light even with a Malkoff installed. Thanks for reading! :)
Great work, Greg! Awesome - that qualifies as a really nice and useful pocket EDC, especially with the Malkoff drop in...

Leave it to talented flashaholics to keep on old light fresh, new and interesting.

:twothumbs :clap:
 

scout24

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Just following in some large, earlier footsteps my friend... Hope the play-by-play makes it easier for someone else. :thumbsup:
 

scout24

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Illum- I used the chrome socket shown in the picture to support the head end of the tube during crimping, and the larger black socket just happened to have a taper/shoulder that made the tube flare nicely when everything was squeezed in my vise after re-inserting the tube in the now shortened light body. :)
 

bykfixer

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Illum- I used the chrome socket shown in the picture to support the head end of the tube during crimping, and the larger black socket just happened to have a taper/shoulder that made the tube flare nicely when everything was squeezed in my vise after re-inserting the tube in the now shortened light body. :)

Littering this thread?

Hellnaw man, you topped off this bananna split of a thread with a cherry on top.

Thank you!!
 
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