Made it purty

Got this today.

Thought I'd make it purty

I did 2 two of em

Agreed, it does look purty. So.............whats the secret? Mind sharing your process and how the "finish" will hold up. The clip really looks nice too.

Nice, that looks "legitimately" antique

shoe polish?

Birchwood Casey Gun Blue solution will do it.

twl said:

Birchwood Casey Gun Blue solution will do it.

Click to expand...

Can you give a quick run down on how to use the Blue solution?

Delete.

gonefishing said:

Can you give a quick run down on how to use the Blue solution?

Click to expand...

Two main types of bluing, hot and cold.

Cold bluing is 100% accessible to the hobbyist as you don't need expensive prep, acid baths, or heat as a catalyst. You can knock out just one piece or do 10.

It usually involves a phosphoric acid compound, among others.

I use Van's Cold Blue.

1. Clean the item. Then clean it again for real.
2. (optional) abrade the item finely. Scotch brite works, as does 000 steel wool.
3. The item is clean and grease-free, right?
4. With rubber gloves and a cotton ball (or similar) begin by working on small areas. Act like you're rubbing it into the metal.
5. Coat the item with gun oil when you're done.

Note: Non-reactive substances will not change with a cold process. Stainless is right out.

Edit: Cold blue is available in gun catalogs. Resist the urge to buy the liter/quart size. That's enough for three generations of your hobbyist children. Consider the smaller bottles.

Summary: Looking SHARP, Jbb! :thumbsup:

more_vampires said:

Two main types of bluing, hot and cold.

Cold bluing is 100% accessible to the hobbyist as you don't need expensive prep, acid baths, or heat as a catalyst. You can knock out just one piece or do 10.

It usually involves a phosphoric acid compound, among others.

I use Van's Cold Blue.

1. Clean the item. Then clean it again for real.
2. (optional) abrade the item finely. Scotch brite works, as does 000 steel wool.
3. The item is clean and grease-free, right?
4. With rubber gloves and a cotton ball (or similar) begin by working on small areas. Act like you're rubbing it into the metal.
5. Coat the item with gun oil when you're done.

Note: Non-reactive substances will not change with a cold process. Stainless is right out.

Edit: Cold blue is available in gun catalogs. Resist the urge to buy the liter/quart size. That's enough for three generations of your hobbyist children. Consider the smaller bottles.

Click to expand...

Thank you! I'll have to give it a try!

No problem.

BTW, I feel it's main virtue is ease of touch-up.

Also: The more you rub it with the cold blue, the darker it gets. You can mix and match levels of finish, do a gradient.

Go crazy!

Soon as I finish up a few other light projects. This is next. It looks super steam punk cool to me. Thanks for the ideas guys.

jbbknives said:

I did 2 two of em

Click to expand...

Any interest in selling one?

Wow, that looks really nice!

This is a permanent finish, right? It can't wear off?

Will the copper still develop additional patina, on top of this finish?

Where you get the clip?

Its Available on the Prometheus Lights site.

Speedfreakz said:

Where you get the clip?

Click to expand...

Speedfreakz, make sure you have the correct Beta model. The clips fit the newest version. I have the KS version, so no clip for me.

Ya the clip only fits on the QRv2. My copper QRv2 and clip are arriving tomorrow!