new build for a 7xml

PilleLED · Feb 15, 2015

Hello

i do a new build with 7 xml , canister and headlight
the draws are ready to go to the milling mashin,
BUT one simple thing is missing , the switch

I will use a IP 68 Toggle from CPC, with a Boot from APEM.

the Question is How in min and Max is the space between the Boot and toggle , means how thick can be the LID from the canister.

Can anyone Help me out , this is left to finish the Draw

many thanks nice Diving .
Best Regards
Stefan

DIWdiver · Feb 15, 2015

You need to look at the data sheet for the switch. This will tell you how long the threaded part (the bushing) of the switch is. You need to leave enough room for the boot to screw on, and you may or may not need room on the inside for a nut. Some bushings have a shoulder that can go right against the mounting surface, some don't

lucca brassi · Feb 16, 2015

Boot must be placed very precise over togglee threads in other case thread cuts rubber from inside. . I don't know APEM but AMP HEXSEAL have drawings http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/302231.pdf

PilleLED · Mar 28, 2015

Hello

Many thanks

One big Question i have still , HOW TO SWITCH, Toggle with a Boot, or can i use a Reed Contact a Magnet Switch
I like use a Magnet Switch , but i dont know About the Voltage and Ampere if the Reed can hold the Force,
and in case with one.

Best Regards
still on the way to build a 7 xml.

PS ; do anyone knows somebody can make on a milling maschine the canister and or the lighthead.

regards
Stefan

yorkie_chris · Mar 28, 2015

I design things for a living and know some subcontract machine shops, I'm sure someone could make these things.

I would use piezoTG board from taskled and a piezo button rather than a reed myself, reed switches are fragile

DIWdiver · Mar 28, 2015

If you like magnets, use the HallSW or HallTG from Taskled.

Also, all my neodymium magnets corroded and fell apart after a few years, despite having a nickel plate. What's worse is they expand when this happens, and if they are in a hole you cannot get them out. I use samarium cobalt magnets now, which will not corrode. They're a little harder to find and a little more expensive, but worth it IMHO.

PilleLED · Mar 29, 2015

DIWdiver said:
If you like magnets, use the HallSW or HallTG from Taskled.

Also, all my neodymium magnets corroded and fell apart after a few years, despite having a nickel plate. What's worse is they expand when this happens, and if they are in a hole you cannot get them out. I use samarium cobalt magnets now, which will not corrode. They're a little harder to find and a little more expensive, but worth it IMHO.

So if I see this right , a hallsw is a switch , like a reed contact
and I can use a magnet ,,,, Samaria cobald, ,, s
To switch

the idea I like very much I axualy don't like much the toggle with boot

I will contact led tech

What is the best driver ,,,,7 xml what happen if I use a driver from taskled with 3,2 a , will I blow the led away

Best regards
and still a nice week end , happy dives , I have one tomorrow

stefan

DIWdiver · Mar 29, 2015

My choice of driver would be a Taskled HBflex or Hyperboost with a 12-18V battery pack. The higher the better, but must not exceed 21V at full charge.

That would work well with the HallSW or HallTG boards, or you could use a reed switch to control the driver. Some people complain that reed switches are fragile (they are made in tiny glass tubes), but you can get them molded in plastic which makes them very rugged.

If you wanted to use higher voltage battery pack and a buck driver (like Taskled Hyperbuck), you would have to make special arrangements to use Hall boards because the voltage would be too high for them. Reed switch would be okay. This would probably be a more efficient arrangement.

PilleLED · Mar 30, 2015

DIWdiver said:
My choice of driver would be a Taskled HBflex or Hyperboost with a 12-18V battery pack. The higher the better, but must not exceed 21V at full charge.

That would work well with the HallSW or HallTG boards, or you could use a reed switch to control the driver. Some people complain that reed switches are fragile (they are made in tiny glass tubes), but you can get them molded in plastic which makes them very rugged.

If you wanted to use higher voltage battery pack and a buck driver (like Taskled Hyperbuck), you would have to make special arrangements to use Hall boards because the voltage would be too high for them. Reed switch would be okay. This would probably be a more efficient

arrangement.

Many thanks realy help full
I was also thinking about the hyperbuck
And a hall switch . Not sure jet is the piezo or magnet
But so far . Many thanks

PilleLED · Jan 7, 2016

build is done ,,its awesome ,,a bit crazy
but very cooooool

DIWdiver · Jan 7, 2016

Where are the pictures?

new build for a 7xml

PilleLED

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lucca brassi

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