Just a few tweaks to produce the Ultimate tactical flashlight?

bluemax_1

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To the innovative folks at Acebeam,

Now that the Thrunite Scorpion/Lynx is gone, you're currently the ONLY manufacturer that I'm aware of, aside from HDS and Night Reaper, who produces a flashlight with a rear mounted rotary knob to select the different modes.

I have some recommendations that can help you produce an extremely versatile flashlight, with the flexibility to make it THE choice for the Ultimate Tactical flashlight because there's nothing available out there like this proposed design.

As-is, the T10 uses a magnetic tailswitch to operate the light, which results in it operating as a reverse clicky. Because of this, most of the modes do not have a momentary option (in most of the knob positions, you can't half press the button for momentary).

If you can redesign the light to use a standard forward clicky button and still retain the rotary selector knob, with a few tweaks to the programming chip, you can have a light with incredible versatility.

In addition to changing the rear button from the magnetic switch to a forward clicky, all you need is to have 3 positions for the selector knob. Make all 3 positions user programmable.

The chip will need modifications to the implementation for programming the modes, but it should be possible. I have several lights that require a series of many button presses to enter the programming modes, eg. a series of 6 rapid, consecutive double-clicks (12 total presses) etc.

You want to make it difficult/impossible to EVER accidentally enter the programming mode. It should be difficult enough that it can only be entered intentionally. Something along the lines of 10 rapid double-clicks (a total of 20 total presses) within a short time limit would be ideal, as this would allow any potential users who wish to use morse code/signaling flashes to do so without accidentally entering programming mode.

The fact that it's a little more difficult to enter the programming modes is not a problem because the overwhelming majority of users aren't interested in constantly reprogramming the light on the fly. Most users will program the light for their preferences when they first get it, and leave it at that. If their preferences change, they can reprogram the light, but it's absolutely crucial that you cannot accidentally enter programming mode while trying to just use the flashlight. The method to enter programming mode MUST be difficult enough that it would only be done deliberately with the intention of entering programming mode.

With 3 user programmable modes AND the ability to have momentary or constant-on for each mode, you have the ultimate tactical light.

In addition to these changes, there are of course, the usual requirements of good drop/impact resistance and waterproofing.

The flashlight beam also needs a good balance of throw vs spill. The current T10 reflector is too spot/throw oriented, with a very intense but narrow hotspot and a narrow spillbeam. This is dangerous for doing things like clearing a room or building, or doing a quick sweep of a dark alley.

Unless I'm mistaken, the Thrunite Scorpion and Lynx were manufactured in your facility. The Scorpion's Turbo head/reflector has a very good throw and spillbeam profile. Excellent intensity of the hotspot for longer distances and/or disrupting someone's dark adapted vision, while having a wide spillbeam (55 degrees or wider?) to light up a wide area without having to shine the light all around the room to see everything.

Although there are many LED emitters available with advantages in specific areas, at this time, the XM-L2 still has some of the best overall abilities when coupled with a good reflector. 1000 Maximum lumens, about 20,000 candela and a spillbeam in the 55 degree range or higher.

With a user interface as I've detailed above, the user can choose which position on the rotary selector they want each particular mode.

For typical U.S. LEO use, the most important/desired ability is easy access to a momentary and constant-on Maximum. With a forward clicky switch instead of the reverse clicky magnetic switch, the user can program the Maximum brightness mode in any of the 3 knob positions.

Some people think Maximum should be at the most clockwise position, others prefer it in the most counterclockwise position.

With the interface I described above, the user can choose where to program that mode, and with a forward clicky, you have both momentary and constant-on Maximum on the same position instead of having to turn the knob to switch from momentary to constant-on and vice versa.

In addition, some folks want a tactical strobe, some don't. Some want firefly, others don't AND everyone has their preferences for where each mode should be.

Some want just Low-Med-High with no strobing modes. Someone else prefers High-Med-Low. Yet another person wants Firefly-Strobe-High. With all 3 positions being programmable, they can program what they want, where they want it.

For most US LEOs, the number one need is to easily get momentary or constant-on Maximum at any time. Forward clicky lights are ideal for this. The 2nd most common desire is for a low or medium mode for checking drivers licenses etc. or writing tickets without blinding themselves from the reflected glare of 1000 lumens.

For LEO who also like the usefulness of a tactical strobe, my personal preference would be to program the light for Maximum brightness at the counterclockwise position, Strobe at the clockwise position, and low in the middle.

With the right flashlight holster, this allows me to pre-select the desired mode easily even under stress/adrenaline: Crank fully counterclockwise for Maximum brightness and I can partial press for momentary or full click for constant-on. Or crank fully clockwise for Tactical Strobe and also half-press for momentary or full click for constant-on Strobe.

The low setting in the middle is easily selected when desired.

I really hope you guys can make this a reality. All the various pieces of the puzzle are pieces that have been individually implemented in various lights. If you could just put all the pieces together in one light, it would be the ultimate light. If you make this, there's nothing else with an interface this versatile.


Max
 
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acebeam

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Hell Max, thanks for your suggestions to acebeam T10 flashlight, we will consider to update this model if this in the schedule, and your other comments is great helpful to our further produce, thanks again!
 

Tac Gunner

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That sounds like a great light! The only thing I would add is make sure it's a neutral white light. Neutral tints give better color rendition which is extremely helpful when looking for things because the colors stand out more and aren't washed out or look gray. Also make sure it is extremely reliable.
 

bluemax_1

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That sounds like a great light! The only thing I would add is make sure it's a neutral white light. Neutral tints give better color rendition which is extremely helpful when looking for things because the colors stand out more and aren't washed out or look gray. Also make sure it is extremely reliable.

Excellent suggestion. I forgot to add that as all my lights are neutral white. It completely slipped my mind.

Not only does it make it easier to quickly locate things with better color rendition, one of the potential uses for a tactical light might be checking people with medical conditions or injuries and a Neutral White tint is a HUGE improvement over the bluish tint of Cool White when checking for cyanosis (the bluish tinge a person's skin develops when they're not getting enough oxygen).


Max
 

bluemax_1

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As for durability/reliability, yes, I mentioned having good impact and water resistance, but perhaps I should have emphasized this point even more:

- Reliability is THE most important feature for a Tactical flashlight.

The owners need to know that the flashlight WILL function when they use/need it. All the best features and bells and whistles are pointless if folks are worried that the light may not work when they need it.

This is the main reason companies like Elzetta and Surefire sell as well as they do to the Tactical operator: reliability.

Their lights don't have many features. They may not have the latest emitters, but the buyers know that when they hit the button, the light will turn on, even after being dropped, submerged in water, mounted to a rifle and subjected to the recoil repeatedly: the flashlight will still work.

If you can provide reliable waterproofing to the 2m standard for 30 minutes, this will be enough for many users who don't dive with the light. If you can provide waterproofing to 100 feet or more, the light will become an option to even more users (eg. US Navy SEALs etc.).

The better you can make the impact resistance, the better the durability and reliability. At the very least, the flashlight should be able to withstand repeated drops from at least 2 meters onto concrete without failure. Potted electronics are a good idea.

It's also worth thinking about offering buyers the option of ordering the flashlight with a polycarbonate/lexan lens along with the usual tempered glass as an option for folks who need even more impact resistance.


Max
 

grinsefalle

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Hi Max,

you made some interesting suggestions to the ui!
Just one or two thoughts from me:
What has to be considered is the way to change modes with activated light. Think about the LEO is checking an ID in low mode, when the suspect suddenly becomes aggressive. The LEO now has to switch to strobe or full power light to blind the suspect. How does it work with the forward clicky and selector ring?
A) The light is on and changes the mode as soon as you move the selector ring to the next position. No need to manipulate the forward clicky.
B) Switching the selector ring to the next position has no effect. You have to click the light off and on in order to get the new mode.

Option B is hard to do in the situation mentioned above. Moving the ring and clicking the switch twice is quite complicated in high stress situations.

What I like is the Surefire maxblast function. Full press of the rear switch overrides the mode, which was elected with the ring, and gives you full output. But this does not work with a forward clicky and it is patented by Surefire and cannot be used in other flashlights.

The idea with a tail switch and a selector ring at the tailcap is my favorite, too! But it's very hard to design the small details of the ui...

If I have a flash of inspiration, I will tell you :)

Michael
 

bluemax_1

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Michael, good point to bring up. I'm in favor of the 'switch immediately to the mode when selector knob is turned'.

The reason for this is that with a 3-position interface, this can be done very easily and quickly, unlike a selector knob with more positions. If the user is using the low mode programmed for the center position, rotating the knob a click to either side can switch immediately to Maximum or Strobe if those are programmed in the end positions.

Even if the light is on Maximum on one end and Strobe on the other end is needed/desired (or vice versa), rotating the knob all the way is still easily done.

With a 3-position selector, there is no need to pre-stage the next mode, as switching to another mode is quick and intuitive (as opposed to say, a 4 or 5 position light where you may want to go from mode/position 1 to mode 3 but over rotate and get 4, or under rotate and get 2).

That's why I favor having the crucial modes programmed on positions 1 & 3 and the least crucial mode in the middle. Cranking all the way left or right is easier under stress, and on a tail mounted rotary knob light held in a reverse grip, can be done easily with just the thumb, forefinger, or thumb and forefinger, even when switching from one end to the other if there are only 3 positions.


Max
 
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Tac Gunner

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And another suggestion is maybe put a small lever or finger loop on the tail cap for easier manipulation with one hand. My Solarforce L2 has the finger loop tail cap and I love it. With this ui it'd make it simple to hold one hand and easily rotate the tail cap. A plain round tail cap would make it difficult to operate under stress and/or with gloves.
 

bluemax_1

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And another suggestion is maybe put a small lever or finger loop on the tail cap for easier manipulation with one hand. My Solarforce L2 has the finger loop tail cap and I love it. With this ui it'd make it simple to hold one hand and easily rotate the tail cap. A plain round tail cap would make it difficult to operate under stress and/or with gloves.

While those can be handy for folks who prefer it, it all depends on the end users usage and carry preferences. As such it could be developed as an optional accessory.

On a light with a tailcap mounted rotary selector like this though, the design and implementation could be challenging.


Max
 

bluemax_1

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On further consideration on the UI operation as posed by Michael/grinsefalle, I realized that it HAS to be option A for Tactical usage; i.e. the light immediately switches to the mode programmed for that particular selector position

Under stress and duress, operation needs to be as quick and simple as possible.

The primary common mode that is most crucial to be able to get to quickly in a light is Maximum. If the user is in a low/medium mode, being able to just rotate the knob and get Maximum is faster.

Even if the user is using a low/medium mode in momentary and need to switch to Maximum, they can (my preference) mash the button to constant-on and then rotate to Maximum (which is extremely quick since they were already half-pressing for momentary), or rotate then mash the button.

Either or, it's simple.

One of the issues with flashlight UIs currently available is how quickly someone can go from a low mode to constant-on Maximum. For example, if a LEO is using low mode and a suspect takes off running and the LEO has to engage in a foot pursuit, running with a finger/thumb holding a momentary only mode is dangerous. If your thumb slips off the button for whatever reason, you're in the dark.

Many/most of the available UIs require several actions to go from low to constant-on Maximum.

With a UI like THIS proposed light, I would advocate putting the low/medium mode in the middle and ALWAYS using low/medium in constant-on (i.e. if using low/medium, ALWAYS full click). That way, if maximum is needed, it's just one rotation click. If the user uses Tactical strobe, it's one rotation click the other way. Fast, easy, intuitive.

No, "Hmmm... I'm in which mode right now? Ok, if I'm in THIS mode, and I want constant Maximum, I should double click. If I'm in THIS other mode, I need to rotate 2 over and THEN double click for constant-on. If I'm in THIS other mode, I should rotate one over, then double click" etc. which is how some of the available rotary interfaces are.

Even the current T10 interface is problematic. If you're in momentary Maximum, you need to rotate to another position to get constant-on Maximum. With the current T10 UI, you can't have a momentary Maximum, constant-on Maximum AND constant-on low/medium. Switching between the modes is also less than optimal.

A 3-position forward clicky interface is so simple, it's intuitive to learn. Hand it to someone and they'll quickly go, "Ok, 3 positions for the knob for 3 different modes. Half-press for momentary, full click for constant-on with any mode", AND the user can program what they want wherever they want it. There simply isn't another UI as versatile, powerful and simple as this available.



Max
 
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Gryffin

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This is why I love this place. You folks just conceptualized the *ultimate* flashlight UI. I sure hope Acebeam/Thrunite are listening. I love my Scorpion v2, but I also realize it's limitations. The suggestions here not only fix the flaws, they would take flashlight UI to another level.

The state-of-the-art in flashlight UI has been pretty stagnant. It's all just variations on the good ol' multiple-button-presses-to-select-mode paradigm, whether it's one button at the tail, one on the side, one of both, or two buttons, it's still the same basic nonsense. (Control rings were the only real innovation, but aren't suitable for tactical use because they require a shift in grip.) What's been described here would be a real game changer.

My only contribution: four programmable modes, like the Lynx, rather than three. Besides the mandatory momentary/constant tactical strobe and max, and a low close-up-reading-licenses mode, there's certainly a place for another "mid" mode for non-threat situations, things like watching your feet while walking, or checking dark corners, without lighting up the whole neighborhood with 1000+ lumens and ruining your night vision completely.)
 

bluemax_1

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Gryffin,

While that's a decent suggestion, I've personally found that a brightness setting in the 100 lumen range works well for not blinding myself for up close use like reading things or digging in work bags, as well as general area inspection lighting where I don't need maximum brightness.

That said, if all 4-modes are programmable, then it's still possible to put the most crucial modes at either end (Maximum at counterclockwise, Strobe at clockwise in my example) so either can be accessed by cranking all the way to the left or right.

The modes that aren't time crucial/urgent can be programmed in the middle where you can take the time to select them.


Max

P.S. I should also add in THIS thread, another revelation from a different thread with a similar discussion, and that is to make sure that the forward clicky button used requires a distinctly longer push for constant-on vs momentary.

I've used many different flashlights with forward clicky switches and they're not all the same. Some need to be pressed deep to click to constant-on, whilst with other switches, the difference between momentary and constant-on is so small, you sometimes accidentally get constant-on when you actually want momentary.

In low light drills with firearms and flashlights, using momentary pop-and-peek techniques, accidentally going into constant-on is a bad thing making you an easier target, so the forward clicky switch needs to have a distinctly deeper/harder push to go from momentary to constant-on.
 

Gryffin

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While that's a decent suggestion, I've personally found that a brightness setting in the 100 lumen range works well for not blinding myself for up close use like reading things or digging in work bags, as well as general area inspection lighting where I don't need maximum brightness.

Given your handle, I'm pretty sure you have a lot more tactical experience than I do. Personally, 100 lumens at arm's length is still awful bright at night, so chalk it up to my personal preference.

That said, if all 4-modes are programmable, then it's still possible to put the most crucial modes at either end (Maximum at counterclockwise, Strobe at clockwise in my example) so either can be accessed by cranking all the way to the left or right.

The modes that aren't time crucial/urgent can be programmed in the middle where you can take the time to select them.

Exactly what I was thinking, too. The ends are the easiest to use, so program them for the most critical modes; it doesn't really matter how many other stops are in between.

(This idea isn't new. In ergonomics / interface design, there's a concept called Fitt's Law, which which states that ease of manipulating an object is related to the ratio of the distance to the object, and the size of the object; one corollary is that the "size" of an edge is essentially infinite, because you can't overshoot it. In software design, this is why a lot of apps and OSes put functionality at the edges and corners of the screen.)
 
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