Drjones lucidrv2 questions

Jbones

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Hey everyone, long time reader first time posting (besides introduction)..

I'm having a P60 drop in built by PFlexPro, an XPL V6 3D with his new advanced driver configuration which is the new Drjones Lucidrv2 fet/DD. I've read all about the driver so I'm pretty familiar with what I'm gonna program it to. No small feat, the programmability is almost infinite !

I'm wondering if anyone here who's had experience could answer a couple Q's I have...

1. After you set something in the program menu, say the memory type of the group you're in, does the driver stay in programming mode after the setting ? Or do you have to go through the sequence to get back in ?

2. Since batteries are generally safe up to 55 Celsius, what would be the bet temperature setting for full turbo ? 60 which is default or 55 which I'm thinking might be safer

3. What kind of amperage are we looking at with full turbo with a Sony vct-5 and mcclicky ? Roughly...

4. Okay, so then "half turbo", what's the difference between half and full turbo modes ? Being direct drive for both I'm lost on how it works for the two

Thanks everyone !
 

ch4ins4w

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Question #1. Each time you make a programming change, you need to re-enter programming mode. It flashes twice to confirm and then stays on in that new mode.
2. I have mine on the factory default for temp setting and it has been fine. I run the turbo a lot and have had no problems. Not very scientific, but it is real world experience.
3. Sorry, I haven't measured. I use an Eagletac T25C2 as a host and it handles the dd current fine.
4. Turbo and More Turbo are so close together that I can't see any difference. I think of it as just a feature to say, "Cool!" When I talk about the light.
 

ch4ins4w

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P.S. The driver is amazing! I love playing around with it and the light is a blast to use.
 

m4a1usr

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I'm wondering if anyone here who's had experience could answer a couple Q's I have...
3. What kind of amperage are we looking at with full turbo with a Sony vct-5 and mcclicky ? Roughly...

I'm not using that driver specifically but I'm using one of his FET/DD with the guppydrv Rev2 which uses the same FET. Just different software. I built it with triple XPL V5 so its roughly similar to yours. It is an amp hog. I measured 5.4 amps using a NCR18650B and with a high amp Efest LN-MN 18650 cell I got almost 7 amps. at the tail. You might want to reconsider using a McClicky. It'll fry if your pulling what mine is. A ZeroRez would be a zero failure choice. A tofty Judco conversion would be good but not as much so. Then there's Vinh's TS54 switch which he says wont fry at the levels I mentioned. Of course a good ole SF Z41 should be able to endure 7 amps providing the spring can handle it. If not you could make it into a ZeroRez by making a copper/brass filler for the hole where the spring goes.
 
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Jbones

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Thanks for the quick and helful replies ! I'm amped to get this, sucks you have to renter the program each time but all that means in the long run is more playtime..

I have an extra vn54 switch so I'll swap the mcclicky for it, probably don't need it cuz it's only for a single XPL not a triple but hey, less resistance = more light

the host I have is beautiful, custom reddish brown color P60, she'll be here tomorrow so I'll post some beamshots and pics once she's all put together and setup

again thanks guys huge help
 

Jbones

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Okay so after playing with this driver for some time I figured out a nuance that took me a minute to get straight and hopefully it will be helpful to people new to the driver like me...

It seems like the programming of this light is geared toward reverse clicky style switches. Being I have all forward clicky switches it took some experimentation to get it right

When you set the brightness for this light, when you enter programming mode with the 8 taps, hold down the switch on the 8th tap for about two blinks then let go, any earlier than that and it doesn't stay in programming

Then when setting the brightness you have to use 3 half presses, but it won't stay cycling through once you let go, so how I overcame this was two taps and a full click on for the third tap. Then it'll cycle through, and when you get to the level you want click the light off and on really quick and it'll select the mode

Ps. A Sony VTC-5 is almost mandatory to take advantage of the full turbo this light will produce, originally I was using an efest imr and couldn't tell the difference between 100% and turbo even with vinh's switch installed

I don't have a way of testing the output on full turbo with the whole setup complete, but compared to another pflexpro drop in that I have, xpl v6 3D driven at 3.8 amps, I can see a difference and WOW
 

TimeOnTarget

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I just got a PFlexPro triple Nichia with Advanced Programming. This is my first experience with Lucidrv2, and I have only previously used GuppyDrv2. I am new to "advanced" lights, and I was initially a bit frustrated with programming my new light.

I read the available info here already posted. I can say that once I understood the press cycle, etc it started getting much easier.

I can now see why this software is so versatile. It actually kind of spoils you with so many options.

A tip when setting the lower brightness levels is to be in a dimly lit room so that you can see the subtle differences in the levels. I still find it a bit tricky to know exactly what level I am cycling through. Some trial and error is in order, but this also helps ingrain the procedural steps in your mind.

Practice, practice!

I am really impressed with Randy's products and customer service. He is building me a mule as well. :)
 

KITROBASKIN

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Did not know this thread exists!

When setting modes, seems like a good idea to have the emitter basically pointing at your face to see those low modes, then as the mode choices become brighter, Slowly pivot the light so it is shining on your stomach, then down toward your feet on the brightest modes.

Been using a Dell Superman reverse clicky Judco switch for a while now. Took a little while to get used to half presses but it works well, with the quick double-click mode set to maximum for emergencies.

As Randy (PFlexPRO) advises in his extensive directions, it is best to just keep clicking fast in order to enter programming, not being concerned with how many clicks, until the light goes dim and the pulses become evident.

For the PFlexPRO quad Nichia 219c dropin, been using a single 22650 host with an Orbtronic battery. The difference between levels 22 and 24 (maximum) are very visible at turn-on with reasonably fresh batteries, but much less seen after continued use of either of those modes.
 

TimeOnTarget

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Did not know this thread exists!

When setting modes, seems like a good idea to have the emitter basically pointing at your face to see those low modes, then as the mode choices become brighter, Slowly pivot the light so it is shining on your stomach, then down toward your feet on the brightest modes.

Been using a Dell Superman reverse clicky Judco switch for a while now. Took a little while to get used to half presses but it works well, with the quick double-click mode set to maximum for emergencies.

As Randy (PFlexPRO) advises in his extensive directions, it is best to just keep clicking fast in order to enter programming, not being concerned with how many clicks, until the light goes dim and the pulses become evident.

I found this thread via the search and figured I would bump it in case anybody was new like me.

That is a good technique!
 
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