Maratac AA

chillinn

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L -> M -> H, and if Rev. 4 is the same as other locally nicknamed "Rev. 3.5," then NO PWM. w00t! :thumbsup:
 

jon_slider

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These are available

Thank you for the heads up. I hope this means there will also be a Copper version coming. Ive been waiting for a Copper AA Maratac host, for modification to Nichia 219b.. and to swap to a driver, that has a lower low than 12 lumens. I look forward to a real review with runtime chart, to inform on actual Lumens and runtime.. a claim of 205 lumens for 75 minutes on one AA is way on the high side of my reality check.

the previous AA was a 2 mode, you can see in the above link that they copied and pasted the same text to the new 3 mode version..:
"
  • Its proprietary circuit design features reverse polarity protection and runs off of one AA battery that provides 2 levels of brightness ( Low / Medium / High )."

I dont care for the modes of this new light, nor the one before, but, I still think the host is a very classic and attractive design, for my personal tastes anyway :)

I was hoping the Maratac AAA modes would appear in the AA model, and I really wish they would offer the light with N219b from the factory. Getting lights modded doubles the price.. but, Im just on a heavy Nichia trip, man :)

Maybe if Im lucky, Lumintop will release the same body under their own label, with modes and LED options that differ from the Maratac contract.. Similar to how Lumintop released a Copper Worm w Nichia, after first producing the Prometheus Beta Copper under contract for darksucks.com
 
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wolfgaze

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I was hoping the Maratac AAA modes would appear in the AA model, and I really wish they would offer the light with N219b from the factory. Getting lights modded doubles the price.. but, Im just on a heavy Nichia trip, man :)

Shoot them an email and let them know about your Nichia interest (I did a few weeks ago).... CountyComm seems real receptive of feedback/suggestions....
 

chillinn

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Shoot them an email and let them know about your Nichia interest (I did a few weeks ago).... CountyComm seems real receptive of feedback/suggestions....

I'm in the neutral white camp and dig many Nichia 219b (this is actually an ambiguous designation, though all are high CRI, not all are the same, tints vary, not sure exactly which tint or CCT or bin designation I prefer most). My most used light is a Maratac with Nichia swap. And I agree with you that CountyComm seems very responsive to email inquiries and requests.

But at the same time (sorry for the conjecture, mods) I believe their site claims are actually old school marketing ("after thousands of requests..." etc.). I think they just change up the model revisions to have something different from last time, and its not truely driven by customer demand nor a linear development of driver efficiency improvement. I don't believe the (Lumintop) drivers are getting any more than negligibly more efficient. Rather, the new and better runtimes are probably due to battery technology steadily improving in between their releases.

Also, there may be some resistance to swapping the LED manufacturer, as CC is a "Merican" company, they've been using Cree LEDs all along, even if other parts are sourced overseas. Nichia's 219b will mess up CC appearance of driver efficiency improvement through their model advancement, as it won't be as bright and the runtimes will be shorter. And let's be frank about non-flashaholics... which probably accounts for most of their sales: they will choose an unnatural light with a wacky spectrum distribution 99 out of 100 times over a more natural-appearing light source because it looks neat, makes everything look... neato (if you don't care or are unaware of the accuracy of color perception). Cool white LEDs are in fact brighter and more efficient than neutral white and high CRI LEDs, and that looks more impressive on a features list.

That said, CC did listen to their loudest customers (probably us) regarding PWM. That is sweet. So let's get a petition going for them to release a high CRI variant (does it really matter who manufactures the high CRI LED? I'd be happy with a Nichia or Cree or Osram or whatever, as long as it could push 91-93+ CRI. Does that matter to you guys?).

And if you're going to request anything to begin with, I suggest you add a request that the LED's are copper bonded, and you can tell them you don't mind paying a little more for a light with better heat sinking as it will improve brightness and efficiency (maybe they don't know).

Also, jon, please resist the urge to evangelize your love of the M-L-H interface. Mercy, please! Let the L-M-H be L-M-H. Its a rare treat in this new release, an interface that is superior for and respects dark adapted vision. Thx.
 
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wolfgaze

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My most used light is a Maratac with Nichia swap. And I agree with you that CountyComm seems very responsive to email inquiries and requests.

Which Maratac did you do the Nichia swap with?
 

wolfgaze

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Rev. 3 AAA Copper, also had driver swapped out for Thrunite TiS (thx Vinh!), to expurgate PWM and the M-L-H inteface.

Oh nice... So what's the UI like now that you're using the Thrunite driver (I'm not familiar with that light)?

I'm having Vinh install a Nichia 219b on my Fenix LD12, also applying diffusor film to the lens... So when I get it back it should be a high CRI flooder...
 

jon_slider

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I did also write CountyComm requesting they add a Nichia option. And I got a very enthusiastic reply saying they will be sure to pass on the request.

My favorite light is a Maratac Rev 3 copper with a ReyLight LMH driver, and a High CRI XPG.
I first tried that light with a Thrunite TiS driver, but felt the low and medium were unnecessarily dim.
I am Much happier with the ReyLight driver.

I also have a Maratac Rev 3 copper with High CRI XPG and the Maratac driver that is MLH. In addition I have head swaps with Nichia in LMH (ReyLight) and MLH (Wrom) versions. So I enjoy choice of modes, and choice of emitters. My most used combo is the LMH 3000k XPG, my second most used is the MLH 4000k Nichia. Choices are good :)

I agree LMH is superior for low light use, for two reasons, the Low is 3x Lower with the Rey Light driver than with the Maratac driver (as in the Worm and Tool), and I totally agree that for low light prioritized use, Low first is the better option (ReyLight version of Lumintop). The LMH ReyLight driver is a personal favorite, for both Nichia and XPG options, I highly recommend the ReyLight driver over the Thrunite TiS driver.

for reference, the low on the Thrunite driver is 0.04, the low on the Rey Light driver is 0.8, and the low on the Maratac driver is claimed to be 1.5 lumens, though imo its the same 3 lumens as on the Nichia Worm and Nichia Tool (Lumintop versions). imho, the maratac lumen claims are inflated possibly because they are reporting LED lumens, instead of Ansii. The maratac runtime claims are also very "optimistic". But I worry less about efficiency, than I do CRI. That is why I appreciate Eneloops so much. Regardless of efficiency drops, to me High CRI is an absolute priority over runtime. And BTW, the runtime on a Nichia is the same as on a Cree, the difference is only in the lumens, as the added phosphor coating of the High CRI LED, consumes about 1/3 of the lumens of a Cool white LED

I do find that with my LMH light, I most often use Medium, hence my appreciation for a Medium first interface. I can still get to Low without losing night vision, I do have to remember to turn the light on against my hand when using it for late night bathroom strolls. When waking up in the dark, I found 0.04 lumens lower than necessary, 1.5 lumens more than necessary, and the ReyLight low of 0.8 closer to my ideal. Preferences vary by application. When Im awake at the end of the evening walking through the house turning off my incandescents, the 1.5 lumen low of the Maratac driver is actually more useful than the 0.8 of the Rey light.

and btw, Maratac aka County Com, does not manufacture anything, they are just buying batches of things from, in this case Lumintop. Maratac did not change to a NoPwm driver, Lumintop did that on their own, accross the range of their AAA lights, Tool, Worm, and Maratac. Like Apple, County Com is a USA company, capitalizing on Asian imports manufactured to their specifications for large batch orders. And imo, Maratac is not responding to "thousands of requests", they are responding to thousands of sales. When they sell out of stock, which they do frequently, they go back to Lumintop and order a new batch, which benefits from whatever the latest developments in driver technology, that Lumintop has to offer. I even have reason to believe that the driver in the Maratac and the driver in the Tool and Worm, are the same, they are just being marketed as having different specs, by massaging LED lumens vs Ansii luments, but I have no evidence to confirm that, its just my hunch. Lumintop Does have the ability to modify drivers to customer requests, as seen in the LMH Rey Light driver.

I still think its a great idea to ask Maratac to offer a Nichia, and I still appreciate that flashaholics prefer LMH modes.

Most of all, I LOVE the Copper Maratac Host, despite my preference to avoid cool white, as delivered. And, I still look forward to a Copper Maratac AA option, regardless of the driver and led County com chooses to offer.

Also agree County Comm is motivated by brightness claims, like most flashlight marketing departments. Thanks to Lumintop, and ReyLight, we more sophisticated consumers, enjoy LMH and Nichia options :)

one more note on brightness and drivers. when a maratac with 6000k XPG2 is LED swapped to a 4000k Nichia, the drop in Kelvin is mirrored by a drop in Lumens of similar percentage. That is, a drop of 1/3 of the Kelvin, just happens to correlate with a drop of 1/3 of the Lumens. I accept that lumen loss, and even prefer it, in terms of having a more useful Low for full dark adapted vision.

When I want more than 80 lumens on High, from a Nichia, I opt for an AA light, that gives closer to 150 lumens on high (eg L11c) instead of an AAA light. For a mechanic looking under the hood of a car, 80 lumens of High CRi is simply too dim, in that scenario closer to 200 lumens is much more practical. To get 200 lumens of High CRI, requires a step up to a CR123 battery, as in the HDS with Nichia. Unfortunately there is no CR123 sized Eneloop, and I have not adopted disposable batteries, even though Lithium primaries are excellent performers, I prefer a rechargeable option that does not require me to invest in the more dangerous Lithium Ion chemistry..

AAA Copper visual aids
IMG_1863.JPG


IMG_0509.JPG


4000k nichia on left, 3000k xpg on right
IMG_0953.PNG


Top 6000k XP-G2, bottom 4000k Nichia
IMG_0496.JPG


Looking forward a some AA Coppers w High CRI and NoPWM..
 
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wolfgaze

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And BTW, the runtime on a Nichia is the same as on a Cree, the difference is only in the lumens, as the added phosphor coating of the High CRI LED, consumes about 1/3 of the lumens of a Cool white LED

That's really good to know, thanks... I was wondering if I would be getting the same runtimes when I receive my LD12 back after the emitter swap - and it looks like I will...

jon_slider said:
I do find that with my LMH light, I most often use Medium, hence my appreciation for a Medium first interface.

Medium is also my most used mode on the Maratacs so I am partial to the M-L-H configuration - no issues with light brightness and turning lights on in the middle of the night...

I really like and appreciate the design of these Maratac (Lumintop) lights... Compact, nice build quality & weight, good feel in your hands... I am also moving away from cool-white LED's now, but this is a light I will keep around and make use of... I'm about to reverse the pocket clip on mine and attach it to my hat as I go outside to pick up a 'landmine' that my German Shepherd planted outside, lol...

jon_slider said:
and btw, Maratac aka County Com, does not manufacture anything, they are just buying batches of things from, in this case Lumintop.

Also good info, thanks!
 
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jon_slider

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I was wondering if I would be getting the same runtimes when I receive my LD12 back after the emitter swap - and it looks like I will...

I hope you are very happy with the N219b that Vinh chooses for you. It will be interesting to see the beam side by side with your L11c (which is on the cool side for my Nichia 219b lights). I believe the L11c uses a 4500k version, my L11c is cooler than the 219b in my Lumintop Tool, here they are side by side

IMG_3442.JPG


IMG_3441.JPG
 

dhunley1

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I don't think anyone claimed it was a budget flashlight or that it did anything other flashlights don't do. Simple L-M-H twist UI.
 

jon_slider

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Mine is out for delivery today. :thumbsup:
Woohoo! Xmas in August :)
I look forward to your day of Joy

Does this flashlight do something that other flashlights don't do?

What AA light do you like, what features are a priority for you?

Maratac claims to be

"The World's Smallest, Brightest, AA Flashlight"

Im not sure if that is true, I have not confirmed the weight of the Maratac AA, I hope someone will post it. I dont trust the accuracy of manufacturer copy and paste specs.

I mean, look at these! How could any self respecting copper lover not be head over heels about these beauties :)
20121121_130147.jpg


Can you think of any other AAA and AA light with such a pleasing aesthetic balance, short length, low weight (in Aluminum), and out of the box brightness?

I can, but they tend to be heavier and larger, for example the other contenders for a place in my AA selection include Zebralight SC52 and my personal favorite off the shelf 90+CRI L11c. There is absolutely nothing else on the market, that I can think of, that offers an AA full copper host (than Maratac has done in the past).. Olight comes close in the 2AA and cR123, but they have really low CRI, and I find the aesthetic of Olight rather unattractive. ymmv

disclaimer, I dont own stock in any flashlight companies, and dont get any kickbacks for being a fanboy. Im just starstruck by the classic simplicity of the Maratac planform.
 
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dhunley1

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Not really impressed with mine. The tint on mine is VERY blue and the beam just looks like crap. Almost looks like it has little flower petals outside of the hot spot. Your average person, probably wouldn't notice, but thanks to this place, I'm pretty particular these days. I really like my AAA Maratacs, but this AA one I have just doesn't do it for me. Going to be giving it to my nephew.
 

jon_slider

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You have a lucky nephew :)

Thanks for your impressions, it takes a big man to admit when he changes his mind. Maybe post a side by side beamshot of your AAA and AA, along with something w a Nichia...

fwiw, sometimes it helps to just set the light aside for a few days and try again. Ive noticed I can be overly picky at times, especially when white wall hunting.

But yes, Maratacs are just bright and Cool White, once we learn of other options, it can be a spoiler. That is why I only buy Maratac for the body, and then make plans to modify the LED to something more.. shall we say.. Nichia :). And in the case of the AA with a 12 lumen low, I would also look to modify the driver to something with a lower minimum..

hopefully your nephew is not so educated, or picky.. LOL
 

chillinn

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I think Maratac is a growing brand. I think this light used to be $30 plus ship in earlier revisions. As demand increased, so also did CountyComm's pricing. They were never known for having a good tint, but that their lights were affordable, that they has copper hosts, and (at that earlier time) the drivers could handle Li-ion for a significant boost in brightness for short periods, depending on heat. Now with new pricing, its harder to justify with so many good competitors. I still think both their AA and AAA are handsome hosts, and plan to pick up this light in stainless when it becomes available again, but if I do, I'll eventually have the emitter swapped from angry blue with green cast to something warmer and higher CRI.
 

jon_slider

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The Copper AA Maratac is now in stock
https://countycomm.com/collections/aa-flashlights/products/copy-of-aa-flashlight-by-maratac-rev-4
CUaa_grande.jpg


Not bad but 12 lumens is not a low mode for me.
I agree. fwiw, The Low is now listed as 5 lumens, Im guessing they are using LED Lumens, cause I do Not believe their 205 Lumen High from an AA battery. If I convert those to a 63% OTF estimate, it comes out to modes of 3/28/129 (L11c is 3/30/160)

Simple L-M-H twist UI.
Can you or anyone else confirm that the UI starts on Low now?
Can you confirm if there is NoPWM?
 
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