Review: Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp

JohnnyMac

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Imalent HR20 XP-L HI Rechargeable Headlamp
* Imalent HR20 provided courtesy of Imalent in exchange for my unbiased honest review.



IMALENT'S MARKETING DESCRIPTION

The HR20 is a versatile USB rechargeable headlamp with extensive runtime, extremely light weight and impressive output for outdoor use. A CREE XP-L HI LED delivers 1000 lumens impressive flood light. Powered by 1 pcs of 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery or 2 pcs CR123 Lithium batteries which will provide the runtime of 360 hours to the headlight. Rotary infinite brightness adjustable, which practicality enhances outdoor applications. Utilizes patented reflector vacuum coating cup with floodlight and spotlight, can be called as "outdoor lighting artifact".

Features
* An easy to carry light weight and compact aluminum headlight
* Utilizes CREE XP-L HI LED with maximum output up to 1000 lumens
* Powered by 1 pcs of 18650 Li-ion rechargeable battery or 2 pcs CR123 Li-ion
batteries which will provide the runtime of 360 hours to the headlight
* Instant adjustable brightness, which practicality enhances outdoor applications
* With built-in USB charging port, the battery can be re-charged at any time so the
battery will never running out of power
* Built-in thermal control module will automatically adjust the output of brightness
according to the working state and outer temperature
* High efficiency constant power circuit will maintains constant brightness
* Anti-reverse battery protection
* Combination of toughened ultra-clear mineral and anti-reflective coating glass
* Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy body
* Wear resistant Type III hard-anodized surface treatment
* By using the comfortable, breathable and elastic material in the making
of high quality nylon headband
* IPX-8 standard waterproof (2 meters submersible)
* 1.5m impact resistant
* Tail stand function

AT A GLANCE
PROS

  • Compact size
  • Excellent build quality with very good machining and anodiing.
  • NW beam tint and good throw for a small light with SMO reflector and Cree XP-L HI LED
  • AR coated lens
  • Super easy to use infinitely variable output
  • Welcome change to micro-switch instead of touch sensitive button used on Imalent's DM21
  • Zero visible PWM
  • Temperature controlled stepdown.
  • Waterproof
  • Included 18650 cell
  • Comfortable head band with both side and top straps for secure wear when active.
  • Safe internal charging to 4.19V via included USB cable.
  • Street price of under $50
CONS

  • Horrible pocket clip
  • Very small USB cover


^ Great looking EDC capable headlamp here!



^ Sweet SMO reflector and AR coated lens make good use of the Cree XP-L HI NW emitter.


PERFORMANCE
This little headlamp is a fantastic thrower for it's size. The "infinitely" variable control with the smooth rotary knob in the head is a joy to use. The HR20 (and the new DM21T) have their UI based off the older DM21 that had the same rotating knob to control output but used a touch sensitive electronic sensor instead of the more physical electronic micro-switch used in the HR20 and DM21T. This is a HUGE improvement over the old DM21 UI. The touch was unreliable, easy to accidentally turn off/on...I HATED it. I recall recommending to them at the time that I didn't like the touch controls and to switch to a physical switch that provided tactile feel. Wouldn't you know it? Along comes 2016 models and they create this awesome HR20 and added the DM21T, a variation of the touch controlled DM21 but with a tactile, physical switch. W00T!


Output is very competitive. The tint on my HR20 is NW (neutral white), especially compared to the tint of the XP-L HI in the DM21T (up for review in the near future) which is CW (cold white). The HR20 and the DM21T utilize the same controls and, I'd imagine, the exact same drivers as well but for some reason, my HR20 has ZERO visible PWM while my DM21T has barely visible PWM. I'm sensitive to PWM and even though the PWM on the DM21T is fast enough to be visible when viewed against a fan but not slow enough to bother my eyes, the HR20 and it's lack of any visible PWM is most welcome.


Let's take a look at measured output now. It's hard to get a headlamp of this type into the Integrating Sphere for an accurate reading but I think I managed to get pretty accurate readings. Measurements were taken with fully charged Imalent 18650 cell that comes with the HR20. The Integrating Sphere is calibrated for accuracy and highest output is measured at both startup and after 30 seconds of being On (ANSI/NEMA FL1 standards).



^ It is very important to note that measuring headlamps with the side-mounted LEDs is very difficult to do accurately in the IS. Readings will not be as accurate as with flashlights with regular front-mounted LEDs. The results should only be used for relative comparison with other side-mounted LED lights like the Skillhunt H03 for example. Throw measurements are as accurate as with any light I've tested and the HR20 is very close to the claimed lux and throw distance. The XP-L HI certainly helps keep the beam optimized for throw. The BLF A6 was chosen for its reflector which is very close in diameter and depth to the HR20.


Let's take a look at the beams next...

^ Here is a little white wall hunting with the HR20. The center spot is very tight and well focused. The NW tint of the XP-L HI used, while not high-CRI, is still very pleasing to the eyes indoors and out.



^ A look at the beam profile shows the pretty tight focus of the beam.



^ Now for a look at the HR20 outdoors. Due to the infinitely variable output I took shots at it's lowest output, 1/3 output, 2/3 output, and 100%. You can really see how well this throws for a headlamp.



^ Above we have some comparison beams with 2 other 18650 headlamps, the Skillhunt H03 and Ultrafire H6, as well as with the BLF A6 which has roughly the same size reflector.



^ There is a lot of debate on the forums as to the HR20 being waterproof with it's control knob and port cover. Even I had my doubts and one way to rule them out is to test it. I dropped my running HR20 into a container with 4" of water in it and left it there for 80 minutes (originally the plan was 30 minutes but I forgot about it).



^ So what was the result? A headlamp that was, as my dad would say, "dry as a popcorn fart" inside. Not a trace of vapor or moisture inside the lens and reflector and not any inside the battery tube either. I would not hesitate to get the HR20 wet. Not my sample anyway.


USER INTERFACE (UI)
The UI is about as easy to use as it gets and about the only thing easier to use would be a single mode light. The switch on the top of the light is small but easy to find by feel and activate. The switch (and charging port) is mounted right on the large rotating top of the light. This rotating knob allows for super simple output adjustment from a low of 1 lumen to a claimed 1000 lumens and any level in between. What I really like about this is that you can set the ouput of the light before you even turn it on. The grooved and ribbed texture macined into the sides of the knob make it easy to operate one-handed. Need extra modes? There are 3 hidden flashy modes: Strobe, SOS, and Beacon that are dead easy to activate when wanted. Here is a quick rundown on the UI...


From OFF

  • Click to turn On
    • Output can be adjusted before turning the light On.
  • Long press for instant access to Strobe
From ON

  • Click to turn off
  • Long press to activate hidden Strobe
    • Long press to switch to SOS
    • Long press again to activate Beacon
    • Long press once more to return to regular output
    • At any point a single click will turn off the HR20
  • To adjust output simply rotate the knob on the top end of the light.


^ The HR20 is super easy to hold in a reversed cigar grip. It allows your arm to hang freely at your side with hand relaxed and have the side-mounted LED shine right where you need it when walking in the dark. This, and the ability to tail stand and aim where needed from a few inches above the work surface, is why I love to carry this style of light for EDC use. It's especially handy when working in the garage/shop.


A CLOSE LOOK
Let's have a look at what you get if you purchase the Imalent HR20...



^ The HR20 arrived in a nice full color retail box.



^ Back and sides list details and specs.



^ Standard plastic tray. Mine was a bit torn up in the corner.



^ Included with the light is a head strap, pocket clip, USB charging cable, and spare O-rings. The dual strap head strap is very comfortable and secure.



^ Here is a shot of the included User Manual. Click for large image that is easier to read.


A CLOSER LOOK...

^ The HR20 is only a few millimeters longer than the Skillhunt H03 and fits nicely in my front jeans pocket, clipped or loose inside. The clean simple design and roatary output design make it a joy to use. While not a potentiometer under that end knob, it seems to be a digitally controlled dimming circuit. While not true infinitely variable output, it has a lot in microsteps in output that make it very close to infinitely variable.



^ The Cree XP-L HI emitter is perfectly centered in the smooth reflector. Imalent makes fantastic smooth reflectors that give very focused hotspots and silky smooth spill and the reflector on the HR20 is no different. If you are looking for a super compact headlamp with great throw this is the only game in town. The HR20 is really mroe than a headlamp. It's a fantastic EDC light.



^ The sides of the head have a nice machined relief design machined into them. Looks very futuristic and reminds me of the styling cues on the Imalent DDT40.



^ The knurling is nicely done and provides adequate grip. The clip attaches very securely with no play.



^ Power switch, indicator LEDs, and USB port are all located on the end of the head. This is fantastic for the power switch but it doesn't leave much space for the USB port cover. It's very tiny and doesn't feel the most secure. You really need to make sure it is seated properly after charging the light or it may not be so waterproof. Some feedback I've seen from a couple other HR20 owners is that the control knob came off when they pulled in the rubber USB port cover. I tried several times and the control knob on my sample is extremely secure. I have no worries about it coming off in use.


^ Yes, you are seeing right...They misspelled "USB" as "USD". LOL.



^ The rotary output knob is my favorite feature on the HR20. It rotates smoothly on my sample and allows super easy adjustment of output with a turn of the thumb. The ultra fine knurling allow excellent grip and dead simple use with one hand..



^ The cover over the charging port lifts up to access the micro-USB charging port.




^ Micro-USB charging works well and shuts off when the cell is fully charged. Indicator LEDs glow red when charging and glow green once fully charged. The cell charges at around .86A and my cells stopped charging at 4.19V.



^ Threading is smooth as silk as I've become accustomed to in Imalent lights. The O-ring seals well and the threads came nicely prelubed from the factory.



^ A look at the driver end of the battery tube.



^ The tail spring is the new standard type seen in many lights these days.



^ The HR20 comes with a 2600mAh cell. I don't have any complaints with it but I do wish they would include a cll that had a bit more capacity to it.


COMPARISONS
I've chosen a few of my other headlamps I have with which to compare the Imalent HR20

^ The first two are 16340 lights, the Armytek Tiara C1 and Xtar H1. The others are the Skillhunt H03, Ultrafire H04, and Imalent HR20.



^ A look at the different AR coatings. The Tiara C1 has a more pure blue color to it while the Xtar has the more common purple. The HR20 looks tan or blue depending on how you see it.



^ A direct comparison with the other currently hot competitor, the Skillhunt H03. The charging circuit and rotary knob on the HR20 makes it a bit longer. Two completely different beam patterns though with the H03 being a pure flood. The HR20 is designed for more throw with a smooth spill.



^ The power switch on the HR20 is on the head making it much more pocket friendly than the H03. The H03 was always getting turned on in my pocket and once I got the HR20 it's taken the spot in my pocket for EDC use.



^ The shot above illustrates my biggest complaint with the HR20 - it's pocket clip. Worst clip ever. The friction bump is right where the lip for the clip is making it almost impossible to clip onto my jeans pocket (or anything for that matter). I don't know what they were thinking and they obviously didn't put much thought into it.



^ Fortunately the clip from the H03 fits perfectly on the HR20 making it perfect for carry. I use the H03 in the workshop as extra lighting. If it had the tail magnet of the H03 it would be nearly perfect all around.


CONCLUSION
Pocket clip aside, I love this light! It does everything well and is very well made. Great output and intuitive UI make it fun to use. No visible PWM and NW tint are easy on the eyes. Price point is good as well at under $50 online if you check around. Based on my review sample I am very comfortable recommending the HR20 to anyone in need of a focused headlamp or a very versatile EDC light.. Others have experienced issues that my sample does not exhibit. My DM21T has a CW XP-L HI emitter and as my HR20 does not claim to be NW but is, LED tint appears to be a lottery. Expect CW but be happy if it's more neutral? There are quite a few people who are unhappy with the issues on their HR20 but mine has been quite good and I'm not alone from what I've read. Take that however you wish when considering for purchase. I will say that Imalent has to tighten up on their QC when it comes to internal components.
 
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jorn

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This is what it might look like when you yank that usb cord out in a hurry.
tmp_9398-DSC_0534-1715926962_zpsk0g5kvnu.jpg

As you can see, the electronics are not protected against water at all. You can see two screws on the pic, one on each side of the usb port. One drop on glue on each is all that keeps the top from falling off. Like mine did... And some folks on the "other forum" had the same experience. Glued it back together, and still use the light every day at work.

Try to unscrew the tailcap, put your mouth over the tail and blow until your cheeks looks like Luis Armstrong's and see if you can blow air trough yours. If you can, then its not waterproof. If so, then it's just luck that no water got into the light. The same way if you hold a cup upsidedown under water. Water wont fill the cup, because its full of air. But we can't say " this cup is waterproof, there is no way to fill it up with water" :)
 
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JohnnyMac

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I know you and a few others have had the knob come off but I wasn't able to duplicate that issue. I pulled hard on the USB several times attempting to duplicate it and it didn't budge at all. Mine laid on it's side for almost an hour and a half and not a hint of water ingress. Sideways cups fill with water. I've taken off the tail cap and blown into it and I look like Luis Armstrong until I hear any hiss come out the other end. Blow hard enough in any light and it will leak air. THis isn't a diving light but my HR20 is clearly more than water resistant enough to drop in water or use in the rain. It's not a swimming or diving light but it is far more waterproof than I expected after having heard stories like yours.

Believe me, if what happened with yours had happened with mine I would have torn it a new A-hole in my review with the worst recommendation possible. My sample works as advertised and that's all I can base my review on.
 

jorn

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Blow hard enough in any light and it will leak air.
No. Try that with any standard light with o-rings. You cant blow air trough them at all. I go frrediving to 10 meters with my cheap solarforce host without problems. I turn it on, off wave it around underwater etc.
The hr20 is rated to 2 meters depht. Pressure at 2 meters is 1.21 bar, you cant blow 1,21 bar with your mouth. So to put it simply, if you can blow air trough it, it aint waterproof, Thats just a simple rule of thumb. And if you look at my picture, there is nothing at all protecting the top side of the electronics. It's a metal ring around it held in place with two drops of glue. To waterproof the topside of the board, we have to use potting ,and glue everthing, including the brigtness wheel stuck. So i would go far in claming the design is NOT waterproof, and definitly not to 2 meters.
 
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Woods Walker

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Thanks for doing this review! It takes a good deal of effort to review stuff so appreciate your work.
 

Genzod

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No. Try that with any standard light with o-rings. You cant blow air trough them at all. I go frrediving to 10 meters with my cheap solarforce host without problems. I turn it on, off wave it around underwater etc.
The hr20 is rated to 2 meters depht. Pressure at 2 meters is 1.21 bar, you cant blow 1,21 bar with your mouth. So to put it simply, if you can blow air trough it, it aint waterproof, Thats just a simple rule of thumb. And if you look at my picture, there is nothing at all protecting the top side of the electronics. It's a metal ring around it held in place with two drops of glue. To waterproof the topside of the board, we have to use potting ,and glue everthing, including the brigtness wheel stuck. So i would go far in claming the design is NOT waterproof, and definitly not to 2 meters.

I appreciate your warning about the cap issue, and I'm not questioning your sincerity in disclosing the problem. I'm wondering however if your "Louis Armstrong" test is flawed in design. Pressure from water comes from outside the headlamp and pushes down on the sealed USB boot reinforcing the seal. Air pressure from within the unit would tend to push the boot out.
 

Genzod

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Hi, I was curious if you have been using your H20 much, and if it was still holding up after all this time? Any problems yet?

I was also wondering how the rotory control works. Is it linear? That is, does it produce 50% of it's brightness with a 50% turn of the knob?

I'm curious about the weight of the unit sans battery and headband. Have you had a chance to weigh the stripped down unit?
 

jorn

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I appreciate your warning about the cap issue, and I'm not questioning your sincerity in disclosing the problem. I'm wondering however if your "Louis Armstrong" test is flawed in design. Pressure from water comes from outside the headlamp and pushes down on the sealed USB boot reinforcing the seal. Air pressure from within the unit would tend to push the boot out.
Dont matter, there is no sealing around the knob or ring itself. You clearly can tell on the picture. So there is no difference at all if you have the boot open or closed. Water will reach the electronics going on the sides of the knob. I do make boats for a living, so i know some stuff about keeping water out of electronics, and the hr20 wont get a ip68 or even ip-x8 waterproof stamp in my book :)
 

Genzod

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Dont matter, there is no sealing around the knob or ring itself. You clearly can tell on the picture. So there is no difference at all if you have the boot open or closed. Water will reach the electronics going on the sides of the knob. I do make boats for a living, so i know some stuff about keeping water out of electronics, and the hr20 wont get a ip68 or even ip-x8 waterproof stamp in my book :)

Okay, I see what you're saying. I must admit. I've read the poor English plagued literature of Imalent. I've seen the mispelling of USB on the boot. (That's no longer an issue though as they have corrected it.) They can't seem to see the value of hiring an American or British firm to sort out their Chinese to English translation problems. That lack of attention concerns me. It makes me wonder if they are cutting corners in design and quality control as well. So I can see and believe what happened to you was very likely real.

I like the light. The control feature is a spectacular idea and perfect for long distance mountain trail runners whose continually changing speed requires lamp intensity variation in order to extend battery life, reduce the need to carry a lot of batteries and thus lower pack weight, a grievous concern when ascending slopes. A little 3M tape and you've got decent dispersed light for running through the entire night. Take the tape off and you have a cannon for detecting trail blazes on distant trees when you get a little lost. (A little lost, hehe..a kinder adjective for a big mistake.)

But the lamp in this review doesn't seem to concur with your warning that the control knob isn't sealed. It doesn't seem to be a design issue--more likely a quality control issue. They may have addressed this problem and it's no longer an issue.

Maybe you have a defective lamp that got by the inspector, and Imalent read your post and compensated by giving attention to the issue. Besides, clearly they don't all leak, so it looks like you had an incompetent assembler make yours. The cap issue itself is not evidence of poor design by virtue of the fact it is not pandemic across the entire production. There are others who seem to have a good seal.

How did Imalent address your warranty claim? Did you get a response from them? Did you get any satisfaction or were you ignored? Can you seal the product with something like silicone? I'd buy it if its easily repairable.
 
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jorn

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The review dont mention it, most likely because you need to tear it apart to see the unprotected eletronics. And the top is held with 2 drops of glue, so you cant take it apart unless it just falls off like mine did. Norway got one of the higest shipping rates in the world, it would cost me more to send it back than to buy a new one. So i did not care about a warranty claim. I just fixed it on the spot after taking the pic. It happend at work, and i always got a glue gun within arms reach, so 2 new dops of glue and it was good as new. Others have had the ring falling off, read about it on blf before i ordered mine for 21$ (if i remember correcly) at a group buy.

It's a design issue. If they put a o-ring both outside and inside of the control ring, that is tight enuf to seal the light around the brigness dial. You wont be able to effortlessly turn the knob. And the knob is serated, so it's definitely not designed to be a o-ring there. It's a reasnon why other makers of waterproof lights like the v10r uses a magnetic ring system.
My biggest problem with my light is not waterproofnes, but flickering output at certian output levels. I use mine indoors at work with some tape on the lense for more flood so waterproofing is no issue at all for me. Outdoors, i use a floody zebralight. For the price i paid i can live with the flaws. I did not expect zebralight quality from a ~20$ light where the battery was included in the price. But the flickering when the knob is set between two brightness steps is annoying. They might have fixed that problem, but alot of pepole were complaining about the same flicker issue at blf some time ago. It's not all bad. I like the control ring ui, even if it flickers at some spots. And the reflector is fantastic for the xp-l hi. Have modded a lot of lights with xp-l hi leds, and nothing comes close to the reach the hr20 has, nothing with the same size reflector anyway.
 

Genzod

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The review dont mention it, most likely because you need to tear it apart to see the unprotected eletronics. And the top is held with 2 drops of glue, so you cant take it apart unless it just falls off like mine did. Norway got one of the higest shipping rates in the world, it would cost me more to send it back than to buy a new one. So i did not care about a warranty claim. I just fixed it on the spot after taking the pic. It happend at work, and i always got a glue gun within arms reach, so 2 new dops of glue and it was good as new. Others have had the ring falling off, read about it on blf before i ordered mine for 21$ (if i remember correcly) at a group buy.

It's a design issue. If they put a o-ring both outside and inside of the control ring, that is tight enuf to seal the light around the brigness dial. You wont be able to effortlessly turn the knob. And the knob is serated, so it's definitely not designed to be a o-ring there. It's a reasnon why other makers of waterproof lights like the v10r uses a magnetic ring system.
My biggest problem with my light is not waterproofnes, but flickering output at certian output levels. I use mine indoors at work with some tape on the lense for more flood so waterproofing is no issue at all for me. Outdoors, i use a floody zebralight. For the price i paid i can live with the flaws. I did not expect zebralight quality from a ~20$ light where the battery was included in the price. But the flickering when the knob is set between two brightness steps is annoying. They might have fixed that problem, but alot of pepole were complaining about the same flicker issue at blf some time ago. It's not all bad. I like the control ring ui, even if it flickers at some spots. And the reflector is fantastic for the xp-l hi. Have modded a lot of lights with xp-l hi leds, and nothing comes close to the reach the hr20 has, nothing with the same size reflector anyway.

Well Jorn, thank you again for calling my attention to this issue. I'm not sure exactly why this reviewer's lamp didn't leak if it is as you say a design flaw. I'll take a closer look at how this knob is attached.
 

Genzod

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Jorn, what is that ring inside the cap...do you know what is is made of? It looks like more of a spacer than a rubber gasket of some kind. I imagine that is where the glue comes in contact with the screws? Is it likewise glued on the opposite side onto the cap? Is there any other analysis of the cap design going into more detail that you can direct me to?
 

jorn

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Its metal. And yeah. The two drops of glue was on the screws. You only see one screw in the picture, there is one on the oposite side. Other pepole have taken pictures of the topless hr20 at budgetlightforums, with the head disasemeled.
 

Genzod

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I found a better view of the internals here: http://i64.tinypic.com/6p0tux.jpg The screws are flathead and recessed below the rim. It seems if one uses a waterproof glue around the rim and excess on the screw heads, the electronics would be sealed. Maybe that was the designed intent. The way this lamp was put together http://i.imgur.com/BxLVBfY.jpg tells me the issues are poor workmanship and quality control.

It doesn't matter. Although it's evident Imalent has taken notice and they are trying to correct issues (new batch with blue head and no "USD" appears to be a better build--I read at a Russian forum review of this lamp in the comments that blowing into that particular build doesn't leak air) the flicker issues created by sloppy anodization interfering with the tail cap connection and poor heat conductive path created by anodization and a shabby thermal paste has killed my confidence in this lamp and the company itself.
 

jorn

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I notice the wire with the broken insulation on pic 2. Noticed the same ting on mine when i first took the reflector out to check how it was buildt, and see if a led swap for a neutral led was a easy task. Mine had 2 wires with broken insulation. Tought it was a lemon thing, so didnt tink it was worth mentioning. But now when i see mine is not the only one with stripped wires inside.. Now thats just sloppy qualitycontrol.
 

Genzod

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I notice the wire with the broken insulation on pic 2. Noticed the same ting on mine when i first took the reflector out to check how it was buildt, and see if a led swap for a neutral led was a easy task. Mine had 2 wires with broken insulation. Tought it was a lemon thing, so didnt tink it was worth mentioning. But now when i see mine is not the only one with stripped wires inside.. Now thats just sloppy qualitycontrol.

Author on Reddit did a rebuild with a Nichia 319A. Thre are numerous photos linked to his review.

A certain popular retailer online is selling the HR20 without choice of cap color (random blue and black). I wonder if they are intentionally mixing in the old batch with the new because the black cap batch was the one plagued with all sorts of issues. I'm not playing the lottery with my headlamp purchase. If I'm ever to buy one of these just for the novelty of the rotary dial, it will be neutral white in the blue cap. No choice, no money. That simple.
 

degarb

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COMMENT: Looks very similar to my ideal single 18650. Except the 1000 lumen target, 10 watts, would mean the led is slammed at super high current - low efficiency - even as you pwm downward toward a light that isn't just a wow toy. The high is more a strike against the light than a plus. Drivers are cheap enough, they can include 2 drivers, one infinitely variable with efficient sane high for work and another wow toy driver. . 2x18650 xpl buck driver is my work horse. This is a good design for belt, momentary on when loading basement garage tools, or backup worklight for the real workhorse.


QUESTIONS : Where can we buy this ramping driver for our own designs? Also, what does this gobbdy gook mean: Utilizes patented reflector vacuum coating cup with floodlight and spotlight, can be called as "outdoor lighting artifact"??
 
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