Hello!/ Perfect EDC light challenge!!

Ladies and Gentlemen, Hello!

Long time lurker, first time poster here. Now that I'm finally posting here let me first thank all of you serious flashlight aficionados for your unintentional help in the past. This site has been invaluable when it comes to resolving problems I have had in the past. This site has turned me onto some pretty cool pieces of gear.

Having served in the military, I always believed that Surefire was the way to go. I carried one for years (and still do) until I realized I was paying more for a name more than anything. I've been experimenting with other brands lately, looking for something to fit all my needs, but I keep coming up short. Its close but not perfect.

So now I come to you for help; I'm looking for MY perfect EDC light.

I've thought about what I want long and hard, and conveniently there is a checklist stickied at the top of this forum so I'll start there.

It doesn't matter to me where I get the light from. I'll likely order online regardless. Budget doesn't matter. Cheaper is better, but I payed for surefire for years and I know you get what you pay for.

I'd like it to be self contained, and somewhere near 4.5-5 inches long overall. I understand diameter changes with the battery type, but it doesn't really matter to me as long as it doesn't look like I have a banana in my pocket.

LED emitter. I don't know enough about sizes or operating power to specify.

I don't care who makes it as long as its reliable/durable. I'll pay extra for American. I can Frankenstein one together if I have to.

I'd like to have the option to use multiple battery types (primary and rechargeable) but would use the rechargeable almost exclusively. Something with a 18XXX footprint, but again I don't really know. I also don't care how it recharges, assuming its not something that makes the light awkward to carry.

I will accept a wide range of OTF light. Turbo/high/low/whatever is all good. I don't care about the actual number so long as I can use it "tactically" if the need be. Beam pattern specifically doesn't matter as long as its balanced (think malkoff M61 or streamlight protac) Range isn't super important either. I feel like the protac 2AA and malkoff m61 drop in I have begin to loose their effectiveness around 50 yards or so so that should be the benchmark. The reflector shouldn't be massively larger than the body, if at all.

Runtime isn't super important as long as its reasonable. 2-5 minutes on turbo before stepping down, 45-60 at 300-500 lumens, 10's of hours (or days) on low seem like reasonable expectations.

This light will be an EDC. I'll drop it, ding it, bang it and generally abuse it. I've broken car windows with a surfire striking bezel before, the light still worked fine. Think that type of durability.

The switch is what is hanging me up. I'm not sure if this exists out there. I'd like a rubberized tail cap, ideally protected so it won't activate in my pocket. The hard part is what I want the switch to do. I'd like the switch to come on at the highest power, when I mash it, regardless of the power setting its on at. I'm not sure that tech exists. Think of sneaking around your house in low/moonlight mode, then mashing the tailcap and having the light jump to turbo/high when a raccoon/burglar jumps out at you. I'd also like to do all the mode selection from the tailcap one handed if possible, but a twist bezel or something will do. I'd be most impressed if someone knows of such a tailcap.

Specific modes don't matter, I think I covered that before. Turbo/high/low/whatever as long as it has a high and low setting. Don't care about strobe either way.

Material or coating doesn't matter. Metal. I'll creakote it if I have to.

Moderate waterproofness. IPX7 or so I think? just in case it rains or I drop it in a puddle.

I'll edc this thing. Storage doesn't matter a whole lot. Lets just say automobile glove box to cover all the bases.

As for special needs, the only thing I really want is a stout pocket clip with good retention (preferably replaceable) that lets the light sit tailcap up, and very flush with the top of the pocket. I hate it when the flashlight sticks out. (I have 2 Surefire C2's The pocket clips are so worthless I question surefire's logic.) I should have made this item number one, because its that important to me. Every other special feature is just an added bonus. Striking bezels are cool, and a lanyard attachment point would be too.

Anyhow I think thats it. I didn't mean to go on so long, thats a hellva first post. I realize getting all this is nearly impossible, so I'm willing to compromise as need be. I'd say clip, followed by tailcap, followed by rechargeable and output are the priority.

Right now the closest I've come to finding a factory light thats perfect is the Olight S2R baton. It comes so close, other than the body switch position and functionality. Also the clip ruins it.

Anyhow thanks for taking the time to read my ramblings, and share your expertise. I look forward to your recommendations.
Best.

Also, I don't have full posting privileges yet. I'll be here and respond to everyone, so sorry in advance for the delay.

Have a look at the HDS lights, clicky or rotary, 18650 body.
:welcome:

Have a look at a Malkoff MD2 with an M61HOT head, mpre throw and lumenms than a straight M61. As tough as old boots, High and Low by twisting the head and clickly on off tail switch. Will take various clips that fit 1in bodies, look at DarkSucks and Oveready for starters.
Watching the thread to see if anyone comes up with the tailswitch that you really want.
Here's my well used MD2 with and Oveready Triad Tail and clip....

There are reasons why the switch type you describe has been largely limited to certain vintage SureFire flashlights, with a few exceptions ....

reread your post and decided my suggestion doesn't meet your criteria well. I was going to suggest a Zebralight sc62 however the way you go from last w to high is not quite what you want.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

I've never considered the HDS lights. Looking again they seem to have most of what I was looking for. Even the tail cap looks close to what I had in mind.

Am I correct in that I have to order the parts individually, then put it together myself? Their website isn't hugely informative.

archimedes said:

There are reasons why the switch type you describe has been largely limited to certain vintage SureFire flashlights, with a few exceptions ....

Click to expand...

I'm sure it's complicated and expensive to make them, but for my own edification, why?

Welcome!

Sounds like an HDS clicky, 18650 body with clip and flush tailswitch. The LE option with momentary enabled is close to what you are looking for.

Yep, agree with the HDS suggestions, any model can be made to meet your requirements, so it's a matter of preference.

I'm with recDNA. If you think the Olight s2r is great (I do too!) you'll love ZL sc63/62. Aside from the higher cost of the ZL, it offers:

1) much more compact, class leading size.

2) more recessed button

3) similar great UI

4) brighter (a little less floody than the tir optic)

5) choice of tint

6) pocket clip attaches with screws. Titanium and cool looking aftermarket clips for sale on eBay.

7) 4 clicks of the switch flashes battery level. 1-4 flashes = 25-100%

8) comes on in turbo with a single click, long press for moonlight, double click for medium. Sub levels programable. Flashy modes hidden (3 clicks)

downside is not self contained for charging, but the runtimes and voltage check balance that out.

for slightly larger with a snap on clip, the sc600 flavours are great too. From throwy to full flood.

Ragnarnar said:

....
I'm sure it's complicated and expensive to make them, but for my own edification, why?

Click to expand...

You need a few more approved posts, then I can send you a PM

Thanks for the continued replies everyone.

In my searching I had ruled out everything without a tailcap switch. I find defensive application of a light without a tailcap switch very near impossible, which was what caused me to rule it out early on. Zebra lights look awesome, and if I recall correctly it specs out better than the olight S2 baton, but the switch on the body is what kills it for me on both of them.

I'm liking the look of the HDS rotary and if I understand the switch, thats exactly what I had in mind. Comes on at whatever brightness you want, but jumps to high on demand.

That pocket clip could be a better design.

Just for clarity I'll try to refine my giant first post into something smaller in the hope I gather more suggestions.

Single 16850 size LED or similar. 4"-5" in length.
Bezel down pocket clip situated for deep carry
Tailcap switch, that allows it to come on at whatever setting, but have instant access to high/turbo for defensive use.
I'll EDC it, so it needs to take a hit.
No real budget.


Thanks again all

You could take a look at Pflex Pro. He has lights that can be programmed to work in many different ways. Wont try to explain all here but give it a look.

Since you say no budget, take a look at an Oveready Boss. It's a stunning and robust light which you can program most any way from a Web interface.
Go to Oveready.com and read on.
P

Thanks again everyone for the awesome suggestions. You've actually turned me onto some excellent other stuff that I'll have to check out. I see a triple head for my X300U in the future

I think I'm going to go with the HDS rotary for now. The Overready BOSS looks pretty excellent too, but its out of stock and the switch isn't exactly what I had in mind.

Again, thanks everyone. I look forward to learning from you going forward.

And I'd still like to know why the switch style I had in mind isn't more common.

Ragnarnar said:

And I'd still like to know why the switch style I had in mind isn't more common.

Click to expand...

What exactly is the switch you want? A two step tail switch, full press for max and half press for mode change?

First off, no doubt about the HDS Rotary! I am not sure of your budget. But..... if you want maximum flexibility, I suggest you order the CR123 body & 18650 body & AA body. Then get some quality batteries to feed it. Then a quality battery charger. You will have some money invested, however I would consider this type of set up the ultimate rig.
I also have holsters for all my HDS lights. Especially the Rotary, due to adding a pocket clip is tricky. HDS sells some decent holsters, but if you need or desire a more "Formal" holster, look up member HOGO aka Thors Hammer Custom Leather. His work is top notch and will build you a heirloom for a affordable price.

Having said all that, if you are wanting a killer budget rig that pretty well meets your criteria. Check out the Manker E14 or a Astrolux S1. Both lights usually sell for under $50 each or so. In fact the S1 can be had for under $25! Same basic light designs, full lego capabilities. Manker has 4 leds, Astrolux has One. You can order both the 18350 tube & 18650. You can program these lights to have Memory mode and come on the last mode used (like Turbo). The recessed tail button is what is called a Reverse clickie. As apposed to a Surefire, where you press down and the light comes on, the Manker you press down, then release for the light to come on. It takes a concerted effort to activate it. Then you Tap through modes.

Another thing you are looking for is "Lock Out". This is where you can Lock the light where if you do bump or click the button, it will not come on accidentally. Typically speaking, lights can be Locked Out in one of two ways. Physical by unscrewing the tail cap (breaking the electrical path), or Electrical (kinda a Stand By mode) by taping a switch in some combination to Lock and Unlock the light. Personally, I prefer Physical. this guarantees the light has no parasitic drain on the cell. Know that both work well for most folks.

Hope that helps, I will attach a photo of the Manker 18350 tube, to give you a idea. (I added this clip, it comes with a different clip). These you can Physically lock out.


Astrolux (aka BLF A6) same Tail Cap and body, just swap heads and body tubes. Budget lego fun.


FWIW: The clip in these pics is a McGizmo titanium I had as a spare. It almost costs more than the light, lol. You can use the factory clip if you want.

So, just wanted to throw some more ideas out there for you to consider. It also shows there are endless ways to go and it may take some trial and error to find what is the perfect EDC for you!

I carry an HDS tactical rotary with the kydex holster by HDS primarily for work then secondly for everything else. Nitecore 3400 rated rcr123 and aw imr batteries. Xtar vp2 charger (should have bought a 4) and I won't go back to duracells! They are too hard to get over here and too expensive when you find em unless you take a chance on Chinese copies that leak.

This set up want cheap, there are other lights I like. I ve had both clicky and rotary HDS 250, tactical vs rotary and the tactical won. The 325 vs 250 also depends on what you want vs need. I like BRIGHT! Brighter the better. 250 is more than enough. 325 sounds cool and it puts out a bright sunny spot of light, but it didn't throw as far as the 250. So that's why I ve kept using my 250. My 2 cents [emoji4]

I have a PflexPro drop in with Randy's advanced programming driver. It's in a solarforce L2P host. If you purchase a light from him he will build it and test it showing the lumen output for your light. It is a really awesome light.

Ragnarnar said:

....
And I'd still like to know why the switch style I had in mind isn't more common.

Click to expand...

PM sent ....

It involves some outside the box thinking, but here's an option.

A Surefire LX2 paired with a Malkoff E2/Scout, E2 Super/Scout, E2T/Scout, or E2 Super Throw/Scout gives an operation like what is desired. Instead of low and high modes, what's delivered are more like medium and high modes.

A light press on the switch delivers momentary "medium" and mashing on the switch delivers momentary high. Tightening the tailcap activates constant medium, and tightening the tailcap further activates constant high.

The more voltage that he head receives, the brighter the medium mode. I find a 16650 to provide a better medium output than two CR123s, but both options are safe.

It's not exactly an inexpensive package, but the LX2 head can likely be sold to recoup some of the cost.

I personally consider the clip for the HDS Rotary to be too far from ideal for it to be worth serious consideration....to me. A 325 lumen Clicky with a Prometheus clip is close, but I've had issues with the HDS switch being confused if I press it a bit too long while attempting to turn it off, and it just switches (or stays) on Preset A instead of turning off. Not good if you really need the light off RIGHT NOW.