Swapping parts between an Incan and LED MagLite (2D), and Other mods?

I've lurked on this forum for a little bit but finally decided to join and post since I have a potential project. I see that MagLite is not held in very high esteem around here but I have two 2D MagLites and I'm looking to merge them into 1 functional light, possibly with upgrades.

MagLite #1

• LED model from MagLite
• grey
• currently has a battery in it that leaked and seized into the flashlight; my fault, should have changed the batteries more religiously
• tried drilling a screw into it and using a chain, then a stout wire, to pull it out; I destroyed the chain and the wire....battery never budged
• lived in my van for emergencies

MagLite #2

• Incan model
• black
• works perfectly but old light technology is dim
• lives at my workbench in the garage

I've read in a couple places that Duracell (I think that is what is in there) may replace the flashlight, but AFTER I mail it to them. I might be time and money ahead to just see if I can cannibalize parts from light #1 for light #2, and buy a different, better light. I could buy LED upgrades for light #2, but I have parts sitting in front of me and it will just involve time to "harvest" them.

My idea was to take a pipe cutter (or hacksaw) and cut the body of the flashlight just behind the switch assembly, just enough to separate the batteries from the top section of the light. Then I should be able to remove the LED switch assembly and swap it over. Does anyone see any flaws with this plan?

Then the question becomes, does it go to live at my workbench or go back in the van? If it goes in the van, I may consider adding one of those pointed end caps (eg, Bust-a-Cap) for breaking glass. Does anyone have experience with those? I see that they sell the tactical bezels for D-cells MagLites but is there any other benefits/use cases for those other than bashing someone in the face? Any other mods to a LED MagLite that are considered worthwhile?

I have a 3rd 2D cell MagLite that is my emergency light in the bedroom but it may go to backfill whatever location (workbench or van) gets vacated, and I buy a nicer flashlight for in the house (torn between a nicer headlamp or something like a Fenix LD41).

I would love to hear others thoughts!

Thanks!

the big Mags are held in fine respect here. They have just been around for so long and barely ever changed and everybody either has one or has a family member or friend with a couple. Trash the Mag with the seized cells. You can do literally next to anything with a D cell Mag. I have a custom built 4000 lumen 2 D Mag for example. Was expensive though. Then there is the simple XPG2 LED replacement module you can switch the incan bulbs out with available on evilbay for less than 20 bucks a piece they are 260 lumens and the beam is out standing. It is no 1000 lumen flame thrower but it is still up to 5+ times more output than most of the old incans BIG throw increase with the XPG2 LED module drop in as well. All depends on how much you want to spend.

Have you tried soaking the inside with vinegar? I've restored dozens of Maglites with seized batteries and this has always worked for me. If you're able to get the tail cap off stand the light on it's head. Fill up whatever space inside the light is available with cheapo white vinegar. Keep checking it once a day and top it off as needed for up to 2 weeks. The vinegar will neutralize the alkaline base and the battery should come free.

Here's a pic of the last one I did after 2 weeks:



The pipe cutter will work also. I'm not much into the LED Maglites but I think the whole assembly should swap into a regular Mag if you can get it out. You'll def need to swap the reflector as well too.

Maglites still have their place especially for those in construction because they are difficult to lose and extremely durable. Most people will be disappointed with the light output of a stock Incan but there are plenty of LED conversions out there of varying quality and price that really bring these lights back to life. For most people it's going to be cheaper/easier just to buy a new LED Maglite though unless you're really into it. CPF member Vestureofblood (Matt from Adventure Sport) has an awesome video about the LED options: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NK7NbWqvB-k

Sending the light to Mag or Duracell is offset by the shipping costs. Even for a regular warranty issue with Mag it's rarely worth it. Shipping will cost you $10 and you can just but a new switch or whatever part you need for that price. Duracell likely won't buy you a new light anyway unless they can get the battery out to prove it's theirs which they probably won't do.

Save your time and money and get a new LED light..... look into AA and 18650 based lights so you can get away from alkaleaks. The D cell LED and incan mag lites have seen their days as the "go to" lights with LEDs about 3-5 times as more efficient and powerful you don't need D cells to get decent runtimes just need a lower mode to get a long enough runtime and you can even keep spare batteries around if more runtime is needed. It will probably cost more time and money to end up with less than what a new LED mag light has to offer in the end IMO and to get more output from the 2D mag you would probably have to consider either nimh D cells and a charger or other type of non D cell batteries.
I've converted several incan lights to LED use including 2 D cell lights and none of these converted lights are being used more than once in 6 months one sits in a closet and has only been tested the batteries in it are 13 years old and still good.

I agree with Lynx Arc.

Times do change and as a reminder I left mine stock and it is a shelf queen to show where it all started for me.

LiftdT4R said:

Have you tried soaking the inside with vinegar? I've restored dozens of Maglites with seized batteries and this has always worked for me. If you're able to get the tail cap off stand the light on it's head. Fill up whatever space inside the light is available with cheapo white vinegar. Keep checking it once a day and top it off as needed for up to 2 weeks. The vinegar will neutralize the alkaline base and the battery should come free.

Click to expand...

I tried using a little vinegar but I did not stand it up or let it soak for an extended period. I will start that tonight.

LiftdT4R said:

The pipe cutter will work also. I'm not much into the LED Maglites but I think the whole assembly should swap into a regular Mag if you can get it out. You'll def need to swap the reflector as well too.

Click to expand...

I probably should have asked these questions first - I need to look at the 2 switch assemblies closer (LED vs. incan) but they appear to be slightly different. Is this a true statement? On the incan Mag, you unscrew that collar that retains the bulb and drop in a replacement or LED module. On the LED model, what looks to be a collar just spins....I don't see how one would remove the LED module. Is the LED version from Mag a replaceable module or all-in-one with the switch?

Thanks!

So, it's not going to be as easy as removing just the bulb and LED and swapping them. You're going to have to remove the entire switch assembly from each light to swap them as I believe the Maglite LEDs cannot be removed from the switch assembly. This process is not that difficult really unless you have the new style tamper proof switch in which case you'll need a special Torx wrench from Mag. On the light with the batteries seized you'll have to remove the switch through the front of the light which requires removing the retaining ring holding the switch in. There are several videos that show Maglite switch removal on YouTube. Best of luck and if you're in NJ or Eastern PA gimme a shout I'll swap them for you!

LiftdT4R said:

So, it's not going to be as easy as removing just the bulb and LED and swapping them. You're going to have to remove the entire switch assembly from each light to swap them as I believe the Maglite LEDs cannot be removed from the switch assembly. This process is not that difficult really unless you have the new style tamper proof switch in which case you'll need a special Torx wrench from Mag. On the light with the batteries seized you'll have to remove the switch through the front of the light which requires removing the retaining ring holding the switch in. There are several videos that show Maglite switch removal on YouTube. Best of luck and if you're in NJ or Eastern PA gimme a shout I'll swap them for you!

Click to expand...

The Mag with the seized batteries does have the Torx screw so I will have to look into getting the proper driver. I have seen the videos where you need to make sure it doesn't flare above the bit. I have not found a video on removing the switch through the front but I'm still looking.

It is soaking in vinegar now so we'll see where I go from here.

Thanks!

I'm not sure if you can buy just the torx driver without buying a switch assembly. I've never seen them for sale separately and no standard torx driver will work. I believe it's a number 8 torx but the shaft is never wider than the widest point of the head which nobody except Maglite makes as far as I know. You could try sending them an e-mail on their site though. They've sent me a ton of free stuff no questions asks but mostly o-rings and switch covers. I do have 2 of them so if you need one lemme know and I'll drop it in a standard envelope and send it you. I just ask that you return it when done the same way. Best of luck!

I'm looking at a bi-pin incan and a "pro" LED version:
The incan version is held inside the tube the same as the LED version where a C shaped retainer clip holds the assembly from moving forward when batteries are shoved against the assembly by the spring in the tail.

The "Pro" LED assembly

The ring has a gap for removal by twisting it inward toward the center.

The Nite-Ize'd bi-pin incan assembly




Fuzzy pic shows a retainer screw and the clip.

Twisting the retainer clip inwards like you are trying to fold each end towards the center should allow the retainer clip to release from a groove inside the tube, and the assembly should be free to pull out from the front, but... the switch assembly may need to be plucked out first.
It also looks like simply removing the torx screw will allow just the bi-pin or LED fastener portion to come out.

Try disassembling the parts on the broken light to learn how to on the working light and reassembly should be the opposite.

I've never had one fail so I've never taken a C or D version into the Bykfixer lab to see how they were assembled.

Awesome pics!! That's a god idea with removing the torx screw that holds the bulb holder into the slide spring. IIRC I think the overall tower on the switch assembly is shorter on the LED versions though. This still might work but I just haven;t worked on enough of the LED lights to say. (Incans are still the best in my book!!) You won't be able to get at it with anything other than a needle nose pliers if you do remove it because it sits so close to the barrel. If you're removing the whole switch assembly I don't think it has to be removed.

LiftdT4R said:

Awesome pics!! That's a god idea with removing the torx screw that holds the bulb holder into the slide spring. IIRC I think the overall tower on the switch assembly is shorter on the LED versions though. This still might work but I just haven;t worked on enough of the LED lights to say. (Incans are still the best in my book!!) You won't be able to get at it with anything other than a needle nose pliers if you do remove it because it sits so close to the barrel. If you're removing the whole switch assembly I don't think it has to be removed.

Click to expand...

Only big Mag I've disassembled is an ancient one (vare-beam). Like you I prefer the incan version. So easily modified to mimic an automobile headlight if that's your thing or just upgraded with a simple PR based drop in from Home Depot. It's also a great platform for the beginning hobbyest to start at.
But for $20-25 one can acquire a major improvement in their LED platform. Iirc that "Pro" was $35 and man-o-man does it throw.

zanq said:

I probably should have asked these questions first - I need to look at the 2 switch assemblies closer (LED vs. incan) but they appear to be slightly different. Is this a true statement? On the incan Mag, you unscrew that collar that retains the bulb and drop in a replacement or LED module. On the LED model, what looks to be a collar just spins....I don't see how one would remove the LED module. Is the LED version from Mag a replaceable module or all-in-one with the switch?

Thanks!

Click to expand...

There was a post from a while back that shows the differences between the newest MagLEDs and the previous generation MagLites. The key difference is that they put a deeper reflector in the new MagLED but use the same head so they had to shorten the distance between the hole for the switch to the end of the body where the head attaches. This shortening gives enough clearance for the newer reflector.

That's the way my only Mag LED is an it's a Rebel from 5 or 6 years ago that they gave out at work. The post on the switch is shorter and it has a deeper reflector. I've been out of the LED game for some time now so I can't speak to the newer Crees that Mag is using but I image it's similar.

Bykfixer, Vari-Beam and Incan, what else could you really ask for?! Is there a better light?! I just picked up a bunch of Malkoff drop ins and some older style D cell adapters. I also have a bunch of Kai reflectors and glass lenses laying around so I'm gonna drop one in and take some pics. Should be an interesting "restomod".

The Malkoff Mag drop in is so dang simple it's a wonder more companies didn't do similar.


Remove bulb and fastener, push in drop in, tighten set screw and WOW!
It is tailored for the voltage of 3, 4, 5 or 6D cells (or C if you choose that one) and suddenly your old Mag is a spotlight. You lose the cam adjustability, but you won't miss it. The combo is sweet as is.

Yeah it's nearly the price of a new light, presuming you don't obtain an orange peel reflector and glass, but adding those is just for us junky/wall hunters. Using stock parts it's still a vast improvement.

I bought the Malkoff pre-cut reflector with my drop in to use as a go-by for other lights.

Stand by and I'll post side by sides when photobucket cooperates.

I'm back:

Note the remaining lip (about1/8")

I did my own orange peel with a fog of clear coat engine paint (high heat type) where you stand back a couple feet and fog spray over the stock reflector.

Works pretty good but...

When I discovered flashlight lens dot com has a slightly difussed lens called acrylite I found that does an even better job at beam cleanup vs orange peel or the kadamain lop.

Just an FYI I tried this swap today on a Rebel Mag and an Incan 2D and it worked perfect. The barrels on these lights are exactly the same. I included a pic of the switch assemblies below for reference and you can see the Rebel LED post is shorter. This has been posted here a bunch but I couldn't find it. As long as you swap the reflectors you'll be good. I should note too that you'll probably have the tamper proof torx bit on that switch assembly. Mine was a Rebel LED from about 6 years ago and it does. Good luck!!

^^ Were they held in by that ring I mentioned?

Yes, but if you're taking them out through the back of the light no need to remove the snap ring. If you have to take them out through the front you will have to remove it. I like the older style Mag switches that threaded into the barrel so much better. 10x easier to remove through the front of the barrel.

bykfixer said:

The Malkoff Mag drop in is so dang simple it's a wonder more companies didn't do similar.


Remove bulb and fastener, push in drop in, tighten set screw and WOW!
It is tailored for the voltage of 3, 4, 5 or 6D cells (or C if you choose that one) and suddenly your old Mag is a spotlight. You lose the cam adjustability, but you won't miss it. The combo is sweet as is.

Yeah it's nearly the price of a new light, presuming you don't obtain an orange peel reflector and glass, but adding those is just for us junky/wall hunters. Using stock parts it's still a vast improvement.

I bought the Malkoff pre-cut reflector with my drop in to use as a go-by for other lights.

Stand by and I'll post side by sides when photobucket cooperates.

I'm back:

Note the remaining lip (about1/8")

I did my own orange peel with a fog of clear coat engine paint (high heat type) where you stand back a couple feet and fog spray over the stock reflector.

Works pretty good but...

When I discovered flashlight lens dot com has a slightly difussed lens called acrylite I found that does an even better job at beam cleanup vs orange peel or the kadamain lop.

Click to expand...

Is there any way you can take a picture of a stock reflector compared to the orange peel one you did with the light on? What would be the difference between the two ? Flood or throw?
Thank You

irongate said:

Is there any way you can take a picture of a stock reflector compared to the orange peel one you did with the light on? What would be the difference between the two ? Flood or throw?
Thank You

Click to expand...

Usually the more peel the reflector has the more flood it will have. The shinier it is the more throw it has.