SF 6P rechargeables for dummies?

olddogrib

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I was gifted a Surefire 6P LED by my career military son when they first came out years ago. I'm about out of CR123A batteries. From what I've read, the recommended single cell Li replacement for it is the 16650, due to it's slightly smaller diameter. Some of these posts are years old, but I assume that's still the case? My question is would this also work in my newer EagleTac D25C2? I use it primarily for blood trailing trad bow deer after dark, due to the neutral/natural tint(CREE XM-L U2, I think). What tint was the original Surefire 6P? Would a Malkoff M61N or NL be the logical upgrade if the ET dies? The SF obviously has sentimental value.
Thanks
 
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RobertMM

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The 6P LED(either the KX4 head or the Z44 head+P60L assembly) with SSC P4 LED would be cool white, maybe 6500K and up.

A 16650 would work but will give less output than two CR123.

Seeing you are looking at Malkoff, I'm assuming you have the upgradeable P60LED type 6P, and I'd recommend the M61NL.
 

Timothybil

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Seeing you are looking at Malkoff, I'm assuming you have the upgradeable P60LED type 6P, and I'd recommend the M61NL.
We need to clarify here. How many years ago did you get this 6P? When you unscrew the head, does the light assembly come out, or is it all one unit?

If you have an original incandescent 6P, or if the light assembly comes out of the head when you unscrew it, then you can add just about any P60 (sometimes called a D26) drop in with any tint and brightness your little heart desires. If the head is all one unit that means it is already an LED light. You can leave it as is if you like the color and output, or you can look around and find a replacement head that will take a regular P60 drop in.

And yes, two CR123 cells will have a longer run time than a single 16650. The advantage is that for the price of a good charger (some of the Nitecore ones can be gotten for less than $20) and one or two cells (protected 16650 cells from one of the good vendors like OLight, Nitecore, Sony, Sanyo, Keeppower can be had for between $5 and $10 apiece). The general rule of thumb around here is not to buy an rechargeable cell that ends in *fire, although some say the Trustfire ones are ok. After that, you will not have to buy another cell for a good long time, which is a lot better than spending three or four dollars for an hour or two of runtime.

If you are already using NiMH AA or AAA cells, or are thinking about doing so, most of the good Li-Ion chargers will also do NiMH. In the four years I have been doing this, I have already saved enough to buy a couple dozen various NiMH cells, and about a dozen Li-Ion in various sizes, to pay for all of them plus the charger.
 

Timothybil

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Also, if you want to goose things up a bit, Lumens Factory and others sell Turbohead conversions that replace the original head with a larger one that will throw further. I am just mentioning it because it is an option. Personally, I left my 6P Classic stock, and bought a Nitecore P30 to get a light with more throw. The P30 cost about the same as buying a conversion turbohead, and now I have a second light. We have a mantra around here - "Two is One, and One is None". What that means is that if you only have one light with you, if something happens to that light, you are in darkness. If you have two lights with you, and something happens to your primary light, you still have a light to enable you to finish what you were doing and/or get home again. For most of us, the second light is not as bright or as throwy as our primary light, but it is enough to get us home again. Using my example, my P30 would be my primary light, with my 6P Classic being my backup.

Oh, if you are looking for a drop in for your 6P, look at getting one with a CRI (Color Rendition Index) of 90+. The higher the CRI, the better the light does at rendering colors as they would appear during the day in normal sunlight. A high CRI drop in will usually have a lower output than the same drop in using, for example, an equivalent CREE LED. Many of us think it is worth it.
 

olddogrib

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Thanks for the feedback and patience with my complete lack of "technoweenieness", lol. It is the LED version. I pulled the head and the factory LED assembly is stamped P60L WH. I should have mentioned changing the head itself might be a "deal breaker", as my son also included the neat little compression-clamped red filter attachment which flips on/off. I use that walking to/from deer stands in the dark. Won't argue whether it's a "wive's tale", but IMHO I hear less stuff spook with the red mute. The tint thing may be more personal preference, but folks that do a lot of blood trailing seem to think natural/neutral has the advantage over cooler tints. Blood on red autumn leaves is more difficult to pick out than you'd think. Sounds like a 90+ CRI compatible drop in is what I need. Does this change the recommendations?
 

peter yetman

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When you remove the head there's something in it that looks like this?
p60l.jpg



This bit can be replaced with another module / drop in and you can retain the head.

You can get new drop ins from EDC+, Pflexpro, Nailbender, Vinh, Malkoff and others.
I personally favour a Malkoff M61 219b Nichia Drop in from Illumn.com. Lovely colour rendition and a nice beam.
Sorry if the above is obvious, I wasn't sure you were getting it.
The are other Drop in makers out there and I'm sure others will let us know who they are.
P
 
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olddogrib

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Lol, I appreciate the patience...I admit I'm at the bottom of the learning curve on these things and likely using incorrect terminology. I lurked around here a bit a few years ago when I got the EagTac , but I'm sure it's a "yawner" too by now. I knew the technology was advancing at an astounding pace and went get away before I fell into the "latest and greatest" trap, lol, but it's a fascinating site! Yes, that's it...mine isn't white backing like the pic, but it does have the P60L WH markings. Can I assume the Malkoff M61 (w/no 'N') is a cool as opposed to neutral tint? Do you happen to know its CRI?
Thanks
 

Woods Walker

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Thanks for the feedback and patience with my complete lack of "technoweenieness", lol. It is the LED version. I pulled the head and the factory LED assembly is stamped P60L WH. I should have mentioned changing the head itself might be a "deal breaker", as my son also included the neat little compression-clamped red filter attachment which flips on/off. I use that walking to/from deer stands in the dark. Won't argue whether it's a "wive's tale", but IMHO I hear less stuff spook with the red mute. The tint thing may be more personal preference, but folks that do a lot of blood trailing seem to think natural/neutral has the advantage over cooler tints. Blood on red autumn leaves is more difficult to pick out than you'd think. Sounds like a 90+ CRI compatible drop in is what I need. Does this change the recommendations?

Buy this:

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-cha...ah-sanyo-ur16650zta-protected-button-top.html

and this:

http://www.illumn.com/batteries-cha...ers/xtar-ant-mc1-plus-li-ion-usb-charger.html

That would be the least expensive way to go and I have used both. I don't know if the single lithium ion works well with the old P60L. I never tested it with mine as now keep it for a backup within a battery holder.

edit. Yes the Malkoff N stands for Neutral White tint. I prefer it over the CW though to be honest a good CW is ok IMHO. Still the N tends to look better.
 
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bykfixer

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Welcome to the site. You're no more ignorant than most of us before we entered the asylum here. No worries. This is a very friendly place with lots of helpful people.

The P60L don't play nice with a 1 cell configuration. Not enough volts. It was designed long ago when LED tech was fairly young and was meant to be driven by a pair of 123 primary voltage.

The Malkoff M61N on the other hand was designed to cover a wider range of voltages, provides a really nice spot that seemlessy blends with the spill and puts out a tint that resembles a (1970's whak-a-palm to work best) flashlight light bulb driven by a brand spanking new pair of batteries. Really sweet module. The L version puts out what appears to the user about twice the light as the P60L while providing 5x regulated run time using a pair of 123 cells. After 5 hours it has a nice, smooth dimming that allows you plenty of time 'to make it back to camp'.
The voltage range of the M61 allows a 16650 or a pair of rechargeable 123's without issue. Well worth the coin.

Btw, a blue filter is preffered by numerous hunters and search n rescue types for blood tracking.
 
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Timothybil

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I totally forgot about 16350s when I was writing my epistle. I believe they would be too much voltage for the P60L, but would make a nice alternative to a single 16650 if a little extra voltage was needed.
 

Timothybil

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I totally forgot about 16350s when I was writing my epistle. I believe they would be too much voltage for the P60L, but would make a nice alternative to a single 16650 if a little extra voltage was needed.

How about K2 LifePo4's TB? Still too much?
They would probably bee ok for an LED, but could be pushing the edge for an incan. I don't think an incan would 'poof', but it could shorten the life span of the bulb. Remember CR123 cells droop voltage at higher drains, probably more so than LiFePO4 cells do under the same load. That means that the actual voltage difference during use could wind up being more than the nominal 0.2 or 0.4 volts difference. Also, while the nominal voltage of an LiFePO4 cell is 3.2 volts, fresh off the charger they are 3.5 volt. When using two cells that can make a significant difference in voltage.
 

Up All Night

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The P60L is a nine volt assembly. Up to 3 cr123s or two 3.7 volt rechargeable batteries work. The same LED assembly offered in both 6 volt and 9 volt lights at 80 lumens.
 

Woods Walker

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If the OP mixes two 16340 I would run protected and always charge and use the same pair at the same time aka keep um together as a set. Never tested that with my P60L either. Also the M61NL is probably the most popular around these parts. Much longer regulated runtime and about the same usefulness as a tool in the field IMHO as the M61N.
 
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