Suggestion on developing high CRI LED flashlight

ddaniel

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Hello guys,

we are planning on making LED flashlight, surely with our ultra high CRI LED light source, do you have any suggestion on the parameter decision? Like lumen, product appearance, battery type, functions, etc.

Any comment or advise is greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

YUJI LED
Daniel
 

KITROBASKIN

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Outstanding news Daniel. Best of luck!

Please tell us what LED's you will be using; their lumens per watt, maximum amperage, etc.

Something really small and fairly light (bigger than a Photon Freedom but significantly smaller than a Nitecore TIP CRI) for a keychain that can be easily recharged without having to remove the battery; maybe 3 modes, (fraction of 1 lumen, maybe 10 lumens, and maximum). Switch is highly unlikely to accidentally activate and is easily, quickly found; truly durable and efficient about shedding heat; surface does not look beat-up after considerable use; water resistant.

Please update us on your progress
 

phosphor22

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Great news. I would love to see a very compact AAA with at least two levels of output -- very low -- around 1 lumen or less, and perhaps 30 or 30+ lumens (if two modes).
 

scs

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Daniel, aside from the Yuji high CRI, which is a welcomed premium, for any light I'd look for solid construction with clean, smooth square or trapezoidal threads, good o-ring seals for minimum IPX8, enough threads at both ends for 3-4 full turns of the head and tailcap, constant current driver with no PWM, flat regulation for ALL levels for the duration of the stated runtime, either an electronic switch or tail switch, but not both, and perhaps you guys can also experiment with TIR optics in lieu of reflectors.
 

degarb

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Forget modes, do infinite ramping driver. USB recharge,right angle head. IE.,take a look at the Imalent hr20 ui. Though, press and hold on button for ramping up and down works. For now, the 18650 rules for energy per gram, unless you can install a 2170 from tesla-panasonic.
 

Ozythemandias

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There's a void in the market for high CRI and light, headlamps, preferably I'd like one cr123, AA or AAA.

There's also zero right angle high CRI triples on the market.
 

ddaniel

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Hi, thank for the information.

Now we are considering to use the 3030 LED type, (highest lumen of 90-98 at 4000K, typical 1 watt at full current of 300mA, CRI Ra around 95-97), AAA battery is a first choice since we do not need consider the reliability of the battery and transportation issue, but we are also evaluating the battery of 18650 which is rechargeable.

I am not sure about if we could achieve the function on dimming on our first generation product, I will check it later.

of course we are also considering other LED type but currently this 3030 is a balance of lumen and size.
For another thought we are thinking about using typical 9W COB for a highest 1000lm flashlight as well, but as you said the heat dissipation is very critical, so we would consider more on this.


Outstanding news Daniel. Best of luck!

Please tell us what LED's you will be using; their lumens per watt, maximum amperage, etc.

Something really small and fairly light (bigger than a Photon Freedom but significantly smaller than a Nitecore TIP CRI) for a keychain that can be easily recharged without having to remove the battery; maybe 3 modes, (fraction of 1 lumen, maybe 10 lumens, and maximum). Switch is highly unlikely to accidentally activate and is easily, quickly found; truly durable and efficient about shedding heat; surface does not look beat-up after considerable use; water resistant.

Please update us on your progress
 

ddaniel

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thank you.

we definitely will consider all of these, but you know, probably we could only achieve a few of these features, what is the top 3 important for you?

Daniel, aside from the Yuji high CRI, which is a welcomed premium, for any light I'd look for solid construction with clean, smooth square or trapezoidal threads, good o-ring seals for minimum IPX8, enough threads at both ends for 3-4 full turns of the head and tailcap, constant current driver with no PWM, flat regulation for ALL levels for the duration of the stated runtime, either an electronic switch or tail switch, but not both, and perhaps you guys can also experiment with TIR optics in lieu of reflectors.
 

ma tumba

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Daniel, besides a complete light you may want to consider making light engines, which are more in line with your profile and which would be much welcome by the community. One possibility is Aleph compatible light engines, because aleph platform is quite popular.

Another good thing for the community would be offering smaller batches of LEDs themselves either directly or via distributors, because 100ea minimum requires a group buy. I would be very happy to try both your 3030 and 5730 in different colors if they are available in, say, 10x batches and with cheaper postage.

I am a big fan of domeless LEDs at the moment.
 

ssanasisredna

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For the 10 people that will buy it from CPF, I can't possibly see why you would waste your time. Super high CRI and a flashlight, especially at lower lumen levels will have little to no mass appeal. Just let your LED customers do their thing and don't compete with them even if one of them is going to build it.

At lower lux levels, CRI is not nearly as meaningful.

As a LED vendor, if this is what you think is going to drive sales, I can't see you guys being in business very long.
 

gunga

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I'm interested but the parameters are too vague for now. I agree with phosphor22. If you can do a two levels aaa with those levels.
 

KITROBASKIN

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A little harsh, don't you think? This post #11 starts off with a gross underestimation, making the rest of the information suspect. CRI may not be meaningful to you at less than 100 lumens. Then your final insult about not being in business very long if they do not follow your idea of a business plan...

http://www.webmd.com/balance/stress-management/features/how-anger-hurts-your-heart

For the 10 people that will buy it from CPF, I can't possibly see why you would waste your time. Super high CRI and a flashlight, especially at lower lumen levels will have little to no mass appeal. Just let your LED customers do their thing and don't compete with them even if one of them is going to build it.

At lower lux levels, CRI is not nearly as meaningful.

As a LED vendor, if this is what you think is going to drive sales, I can't see you guys being in business very long.
 

ma tumba

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At lower lux levels, CRI is not nearly as meaningful.
1000 lumens from 3 meters will privide roughly same brighntess as 10 lumens from 30 centimeters (12 inches). So 100 lumens high CRI light is a great close range tool.

This brings up the question which of the Yuji emitters are the best for flashlights? I think they are best for mules (there is minimal tint variation across the beam for they don't have domes, just like 083b which McGizmo referred to as a dedicated mule LED). In this case, putting 3x 98 cri 30lm emitters side by side would provide 100 lumens of nearly perfect light. I recall that Yuji LEDs are superior to Nichias for red color rendition.
 
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degarb

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Ssa has one point, at low lux levels you can't see color, even at high cri.

Using headlamps for painting, it is possible to get any corded light looking dim, unless you use over 80k lumen hid lights. The Hotspot Corona can be close to rod and cones overlay of vision-so a headlamp has a huge leg up over a flood corded light, as photons are pointed only to current viewing area. At higher currents, outside colors. Though not sure the premium value over a 80cri xpl 4300k, or nichia, for average person-which I am not. I chase lumens, precisely because I can see colors better at higher lumance. Color for eyeballs is cri, gai, and luminance. My camera mainly likes cri. I am still trying to figure out how to weight these. Give me a 65cri 400 watt metal halide any day for painting, over a 500 watt halogen - the color perception contest isn't even close.

I would only buy, if a light engine I could use off two 18650s. Or if they made it in a good right angle design. Yeah probably $60-$100 is my limit, since I can make my own 374 lumen xpl v6 neutral 2s8650 186lpw infinitely variable 8h40 minutes minimum runtime headlamp for $35 to $40 and a few hours. I also may be turned off if the lpw were too low.
 
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ssanasisredna

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A little harsh, don't you think? This post #11 starts off with a gross underestimation, making the rest of the information suspect. CRI may not be meaningful to you at less than 100 lumens. Then your final insult about not being in business very long if they do not follow your idea of a business plan...

http://www.webmd.com/balance/stress-management/features/how-anger-hurts-your-heart

My company has higher sales in the LED industry than Yuji. I am just calling it honestly. They should not even consider distracting themselves with this. Terrible waste of precious resources.

What you see as an insult I see as painful reality.
 
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degarb

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My company has higher sales in the LED industry than Yuji. I am just calling it honestly. They should not even consider distracting themselves with this. Terrible waste of precious resources.

What you see as an insult I see as painful reality.



But, what about the consumer perspective? Would the Yuji bring anything worthwhile?

As stated before, for what I do, 10 to 20k lux in real world at arm length off 2s18650 for 12 hour, 12 degree Hotspot, is child's play. My 120k lumen 1000 watt usually paints 4k lux at a typical distance. No more drowsy interior feeling. Though, outside, my lux meter shows 700 to 7000 lux on shade side of house and 20k to 30k in open on cloudy day, and 100k in open on sunny day.

Also, there are a ton of dealer on this forum. So, I might be wise to wonder how much of the high cri, warm tint, is being artificially generated by dealer, seeing a way to sell more lights to the same consumers.

And why couldn't Yuji just work with zebra or imalent, take an existing light, and drop in a Yuji,plus Yuji specific reflector or tir. A $2 led, adding $40 to some light. Whether it would be an improvement, would depend on the tradeoffs chosen by Yuji. I look at it as, how well I can see per available watt. However, others are indicating to me, that it is a preference and another o. c. d. challenge.
 
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Nichia!

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I swear to god I had the same Idea [emoji362] about Yuji Led inside Zebralight Hi & the sc5 series and in the Egaltac d25c ( one of my favorite ) it would be awesome to see these lights someday..
I would buy at least 30 lights I promise you!!!
And an aaa flashlight are very welcomed idea too..

U know what makes us the following

Single Cr123/RCR123 light
Single AAA light
Single AA light
Single 18650 light
& for the appearance [emoji102] just inspirer from Zebralight and U will be good to go!

It would be awesome if it is ( Made in Japan ) light
 
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kaichu dento

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...smooth square or trapezoidal threads, good o-ring seals for minimum IPX8, enough threads at both ends for 3-4 full turns of the head and tailcap, constant current driver with no PWM, flat regulation for ALL levels for the duration of the stated runtime, either an electronic switch or tail switch...
Yes please to all of the above.
 
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