zieloczek100
Newly Enlightened
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2016
- Messages
- 68
Hello,
My name is Eryk. I am writing reviews in Polish.
Reviews I translate – google translator.
We get a flashlight in a blue and black package, in which, apart from the basic information about the diode, power supply or available modes, we will not find anything else.
My kits are kits, including the PX30LC2-R we will find:
Well done, but not as good as those included with the flashlight, eg Nitecore (like @maba, never used a flashlight), although a rigid case will better protect you during a fall
- a flashlight
- user manual
- warranty card (we register the flashlight on the manufacturer's website), 10 years warranty!
- tube for 18350 cells
- EAGTAC 3500mAh cell
- cable to charge the cell in the lantern
- 5V / 1A charger
- Oringa backup
Lanyard for wrist
Unfortunately, we do not find a spare eraser on the switch, it is not new, such practices have been used by the manufacturer for years
By contrast, the S25L-R producer has joined:
- holster (in my opinion better done than the one attached to the PX30, softer)
- a flashlight
- user manual
- warranty card (we register the flashlight on the manufacturer's website), 10 years warranty!
- EAGTAC 3500mAh cell
- USB Type C cable
- 5V / 1A charger
- Oringa backup
Lanyard for wrist
- diffuser
Unfortunately, we do not find a spare eraser on the switch, it is not new, such practices have been used by the manufacturer for years
Warranty card close up
The cell is a very good reboot of the Sayno 18650GA with a capacity of 3500mAh, plus a working security of up to 8A.In one of the links the shirt was torn, I decided to break to the end of curiosity or actually find the sign Sayno, unfortunately I did not find such a link and my link is now such a cut!
User manual for model PX30LC2-R
And user manual for S25L-R
This is how the flashlights in these holsters are presented
5V / 1A charger
Time to start a proper review!
For starters the PX30LC2-R model
From the top of the steel lace, it looks great! I love these flashlights
For testing I received two heads, one with XP-L Hi neutral 4000K, and the other with Nichia 219C 4000K.As far as XP-L Hi is centered, Nichia is gently shifted, so it should not be.
Fast, high light transmission with AR coatings, beautiful, clean SMO spotlights (dirt in the photos is dirt on the glass, not important).
Both Nichia and XP-L are 4000K colors, after a direct comparison I used to prefer XP-L Hi, which in my opinion also has high CRI and cooler than Nichia.
This is my subjective observation, I just do not like so much behind the diodes warm (for me the optimal value is 4500-5000K)
Nichia 219C
XP-L Hi
The ribbed head allows better heat transfer to the environment.Being at the heat, the flashlight is really warm (within MAX mode) after a few seconds of turning on.Next button covered with rubber to change modes, it is a shame that it is not aluminum, 1) more durable solution, 2) prettier
Built-in L950 to charge the cell, with input known from old phones, my opinion on this?Who today has at your house such cables at hand?I had to look for!The eraser protects the charging port well
The button is equipped with a LED to indicate the status of the link.During charging, it serves as information about the current state or the charge stage of the cell.Nicholas PX30 finished loading the cell at 4.16V and the XP-L Hi at 4.14V
Central tube and cap covered with delicate anodization.Original clip - relatively soft
By going to S25L-R.From the top again a great-looking metal lace!
Metal lace has to be protected.Beautiful SMO mirror, great centered XHP35 hi diode (not green, blue, etc) and naturally fast with AR coatings with high light transmission!
The KIT kit also includes a diffuser
As we approach the center tube, we pass a ribbed spot on the head of the flashlight and encounter a USB Type C input to charge the cells (here also the L950).No doubt USB Type C is the future of the device, but I have some concerns that within the next 2 years it will not be so easy to find in the field / friends such a cable.The eraser just like the PX30 adheres very well, the water did not get in the test, but remember to be careful!I would prefer that this port be moved to a thread
Here we also have a indicator in the form of a charge indicator LED (silicone safety goggles glow green)
The center tube and cap also covered with delicate anodization, the factory clip feels like it is a bit tougher than the PX30, the difference is not great and the rubber ring that prevents the rolling of the torch.Nitecore has this steel ring, hmm, I feel a little insufficient
The screws in both models with the manufacturer's logo (in case of these two significantly different cap models do not fit interchangeably) and the most important element, the ability to put the torch in the position of the candle !!!
Spring in PX30 hard, thick, no problem loose link, which I have eg in Acebeam EC35 when I use shorter links
In the S25L we find some plastic, and the pin, under which the spring is hidden, just as hard, without problems of weak pressure
The threads in the PX30, if well lubricated, nicely done in my opinion too delicate.Maybe nothing will happen to them, but if I put a longer link then the torch turn is not so easy as in the test lanterns Nitecore
The situation looks different in the S25L, here the threads are also lubricated, very nicely made, but they are thicker and there is no problem with turning when you insert a longer link inside the flashlight.
To insert a S25L cell only from the side of the cap, why?Because the torch is controlled by loosening the head.I will discuss the modes hereafter.I wonder if this kind of solution increases the flashlight's resistance to falls ?, all energy at the moment of contact with the ground is no longer transferred to the controller, or at least I think so
And the most important element of the flashlight.
PX30LC2-R equipped with C3200L SC controller.
It probably does not have an electronic protection against reverse polarity, which means the need to use cells with a protruding plus.
Turn on the flashlight with the tactical button located in the cap.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, but it ALWAYS starts in MAX mode (this mode works for 200 seconds and then reduces the current by 20%!).Turn on the flashlight, it starts in MAX mode, no last mode memory.However, it is possible to turn on the flashlight in MOON mode.For this we have to press the button on the head, and just turn on the flashlight, at this point the flashlight will turn on in MOON mode.
The control looks like this:
- (We change single clicks) MAX, very low, low, medium, high
Very low, low, medium, high, MAX (hold the side click when turning on the flashlight)
- With the flashlight on, hold down the button for 3 seconds and activate the strobe mode to switch off the flashlight.
I personally do not like this idea very much, PX30 is a great model, I would prefer that TURBO is hidden, to the rest I have no objection, flash modes are hidden, and well.
Button equipped with blue LED.Every time you turn on the flashlight and every change of mode, it informs us about the current charge level - great solution, this item is brilliant!
The S25L-R has a very powerful W1900 driver, and we will not see much from the driver side either.Again, there is probably no protection against reverse polarity, so there is a need for positive outliers.
Use the tactical button on the cap to activate the flashlight.There is no button for changing modes in this model.Modes change by loosening the head of the flashlight.
We have modes such as MAX, medium, low.There is also a hidden strobe mode to turn it on, when turning on the flashlight we have to do a half-click and quickly turn on the flashlight, no matter where the head is, this mode always works in MAX mode.
So: to change the mode we have to loosen the head, but when we do the flashlight is not so resistant to water!, There is no price here double oars, which is even in the competition lanterns.This is a big oversight!
Here is also a charge indicator, but the flashlight just starts flashing.This is especially annoying when using MAX mode, and most for the first minute when the voltage on the cell is already around 3.7V, then every moment can flash, after waiting one minute (time needed to reduce the current) everything returns to normal.
Driver performance for PX30 in MAX mode.After 200 seconds of starting in MAX mode, the flashlight lowers the current to about 2.5A, which is about 80%.With the Nichia Led, this level is about 1h, while the XP-L Hi is about 45min (differences in graphs may be due to the use of different cells in different states, I did not use the EAGTAC included in the Samsung INR18650-35E).In my opinion, the driver in terms of performance is great!I will add that the flashlight is getting very hot and such results are only achieved on cool days or when we are moving!
Interesting driver in S25L-R:
(All measured on the ***)
Without cooling:
Up to 3 minutes, after the first minute the current drops to 3.07A for a minute, then is raised to 3.56A, and up to 3 minutes 2-3 times jumped for a few seconds at about 3.8A (no graph, Minute) and then as in the graph.I checked the laser thermometer, and in the 38 minutes of flashlight test was about 75 degrees, in normal use it is rather impossible.The flashlight turned off when the link was removed from the flashlight with 3.47V
Water in a glass to start with 20 * C
Up to about 20 minutes the current is raised to about 3.8-4A every few seconds (these are the ones on the graph, actually looking more flat, but I wanted to show it), the flashlight turned off when the voltage on the cell was 3, 5V.
Water in the glass at the beginning of 5 * C
After the first minute drop for a few seconds to about 3.2A (so it was in every measurement), to about 18 minutes there were no drops (unless some I have not noticed), from 20 minutes there were several drops to about 3.7A When the water has changed its temperature, it switches off at 26 minutes for 28 minutes at 3.6 volts on the cell to switch off completely.
The observation is that when the voltage on the cell is below 3.5-3.6V at low temperature in TURBO mode the torch turns off temporarily.At higher temp when the current after the torch is switched on will be lower at about 3.3-3.4V, so when the cell is down to about 3.6V TURBO mode is only an add-on for a few seconds, you have to set lower mode.
I checked whether these intensity drops are visible when the torch is lying down without cooling, and are actually visible until the high temperature of the controller decreases the current.
On the other hand, this graph clearly shows that the torch does not like water and cooling.She is just working under normal conditions, not laboratory, extreme, test.
The manufacturer states that when the torches reach a temperature of about 60 degrees they start to lower the current (but not somehow radically).This does not mean that you do not have to watch your equipment!In the photo 68.7 * C for S25L-R, but you can believe me that achieving 75 * C + is not something impossible
Here is already 74 * C for the PX30.Be careful of these flashlights, they are really "powerful" and the electronics will not do anything for us.Once again I will write, PX30 heats up very fast!
Not without reason, the weight of this light is just over 60 grams.The center tube is so thin that in some bicycle mounts, for example in the famous 360 degrees, it just is loose!
S25L-R is already a weight at Nitecore SRT7GT level and is bigger and "stronger"
The short EAGTAC series
S25L-R on Nitecore SRT7GT
And here the larger family of flashlights in turn: EAGTAC PX30LC2-R, Acebeam EC350, Nitecore SRT7GT, EAGTAC S25L-R.Which ones do you think are the best?For me personally EAGTAC and they are doing a great job, the Acebeam EC35 still looks great!
Field shots, camera settings ISO-200, f / 2, 2s
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
Nitecore EC4 (Mod on XM-L2 U2 3C)
Pictures for color comparison of individual flashlights, camera settings ISO-200, f / 2, 2s, white balance - Fluorescent H
Acebeam EC35
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI and Convoy S2 + 2.8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI together
Convoy S2 + 2.8A T6 3C (about 5000K)
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi with diffuser
And pictures at home, white balance is still Fluorescent H, but I changed the flashlight mode and exposure times (I tried not to overexpose too much pictures)
Acebeam EC35
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
Convoy S2 + 2.8A T6 3C (about 5000K)
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi with diffuser
Link to full size:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2m6JuI1fzzqTTJfdFAxaG9tckk?usp=sharing
A few words to summarize:
For more than a month I mostly used the smaller EAGTAC with the XP-L Hi The most memorable thing about myself was the lack of memory of the last mode.I do not count how many times someone took the PX30 and turned it on, and here the MAX and 1000lm mode!On the other hand, it's a sign, do not move
Sometimes the situation required to put the flashlight in the candle position (even in the stormy days when I was having problems with the electricity supply I put the flashlight in the glass to not turn me down) - this problem affects both models.The next element that draws my attention is the PX30 rubber seal, the manufacturer gives us a 10-year warranty, on the one hand it allows it to be quiet, but on the other hand, if it were to protect the metal / aluminum the problem would not be there at all.And yet smaller, but worth mentioning, the EAGTAC for his flashlight does not spare a spare eraser on the switch.
Going to the pros.I can not go next to great quality workmanship, beautiful metal lace, smooth headlamps (such as nitecore ribbed), Nichia LEDs, warm XP-L, delicate mating or finally USB Type C port in S25L-R, The cord fits both ways, it is less vulnerable to malfunction than micro USB.Although I use the phone with such an entrance, still the market is not saturated with phones (generally devices) with this solution, I think next year, when USB C will be more popular, this step forward is already very future, That flashlights are expected to operate for a minimum of 10 years!The other way went the PX30 model, well, that such a port is good, I wish it was not USB Type C.
And .... the driver, these are very efficient, the best, their performance is noticeable mainly for everyday use rather than testing in cool water, and it is great in these drivers!
At the end, EAGTAC is a powerful, beautiful flashlight without the unnecessary colored LEDs and other accessories that we will probably never use.Standing before choosing a flashlight, take into account EAGTAC, and this time, PX30LC2R joins my next Acebeam EC35, Securyting 700 (mod) and Nitecore EC4 (mod) to my main EDC!
Successful shopping !
Regards
Eryk"
My name is Eryk. I am writing reviews in Polish.
Reviews I translate – google translator.
We get a flashlight in a blue and black package, in which, apart from the basic information about the diode, power supply or available modes, we will not find anything else.
My kits are kits, including the PX30LC2-R we will find:
Well done, but not as good as those included with the flashlight, eg Nitecore (like @maba, never used a flashlight), although a rigid case will better protect you during a fall
- a flashlight
- user manual
- warranty card (we register the flashlight on the manufacturer's website), 10 years warranty!
- tube for 18350 cells
- EAGTAC 3500mAh cell
- cable to charge the cell in the lantern
- 5V / 1A charger
- Oringa backup
Lanyard for wrist
Unfortunately, we do not find a spare eraser on the switch, it is not new, such practices have been used by the manufacturer for years
By contrast, the S25L-R producer has joined:
- holster (in my opinion better done than the one attached to the PX30, softer)
- a flashlight
- user manual
- warranty card (we register the flashlight on the manufacturer's website), 10 years warranty!
- EAGTAC 3500mAh cell
- USB Type C cable
- 5V / 1A charger
- Oringa backup
Lanyard for wrist
- diffuser
Unfortunately, we do not find a spare eraser on the switch, it is not new, such practices have been used by the manufacturer for years
Warranty card close up
The cell is a very good reboot of the Sayno 18650GA with a capacity of 3500mAh, plus a working security of up to 8A.In one of the links the shirt was torn, I decided to break to the end of curiosity or actually find the sign Sayno, unfortunately I did not find such a link and my link is now such a cut!
User manual for model PX30LC2-R
And user manual for S25L-R
This is how the flashlights in these holsters are presented
5V / 1A charger
Time to start a proper review!
For starters the PX30LC2-R model
From the top of the steel lace, it looks great! I love these flashlights
For testing I received two heads, one with XP-L Hi neutral 4000K, and the other with Nichia 219C 4000K.As far as XP-L Hi is centered, Nichia is gently shifted, so it should not be.
Fast, high light transmission with AR coatings, beautiful, clean SMO spotlights (dirt in the photos is dirt on the glass, not important).
Both Nichia and XP-L are 4000K colors, after a direct comparison I used to prefer XP-L Hi, which in my opinion also has high CRI and cooler than Nichia.
This is my subjective observation, I just do not like so much behind the diodes warm (for me the optimal value is 4500-5000K)
Nichia 219C
XP-L Hi
The ribbed head allows better heat transfer to the environment.Being at the heat, the flashlight is really warm (within MAX mode) after a few seconds of turning on.Next button covered with rubber to change modes, it is a shame that it is not aluminum, 1) more durable solution, 2) prettier
Built-in L950 to charge the cell, with input known from old phones, my opinion on this?Who today has at your house such cables at hand?I had to look for!The eraser protects the charging port well
The button is equipped with a LED to indicate the status of the link.During charging, it serves as information about the current state or the charge stage of the cell.Nicholas PX30 finished loading the cell at 4.16V and the XP-L Hi at 4.14V
Central tube and cap covered with delicate anodization.Original clip - relatively soft
By going to S25L-R.From the top again a great-looking metal lace!
Metal lace has to be protected.Beautiful SMO mirror, great centered XHP35 hi diode (not green, blue, etc) and naturally fast with AR coatings with high light transmission!
The KIT kit also includes a diffuser
As we approach the center tube, we pass a ribbed spot on the head of the flashlight and encounter a USB Type C input to charge the cells (here also the L950).No doubt USB Type C is the future of the device, but I have some concerns that within the next 2 years it will not be so easy to find in the field / friends such a cable.The eraser just like the PX30 adheres very well, the water did not get in the test, but remember to be careful!I would prefer that this port be moved to a thread
Here we also have a indicator in the form of a charge indicator LED (silicone safety goggles glow green)
The center tube and cap also covered with delicate anodization, the factory clip feels like it is a bit tougher than the PX30, the difference is not great and the rubber ring that prevents the rolling of the torch.Nitecore has this steel ring, hmm, I feel a little insufficient
The screws in both models with the manufacturer's logo (in case of these two significantly different cap models do not fit interchangeably) and the most important element, the ability to put the torch in the position of the candle !!!
Spring in PX30 hard, thick, no problem loose link, which I have eg in Acebeam EC35 when I use shorter links
In the S25L we find some plastic, and the pin, under which the spring is hidden, just as hard, without problems of weak pressure
The threads in the PX30, if well lubricated, nicely done in my opinion too delicate.Maybe nothing will happen to them, but if I put a longer link then the torch turn is not so easy as in the test lanterns Nitecore
The situation looks different in the S25L, here the threads are also lubricated, very nicely made, but they are thicker and there is no problem with turning when you insert a longer link inside the flashlight.
To insert a S25L cell only from the side of the cap, why?Because the torch is controlled by loosening the head.I will discuss the modes hereafter.I wonder if this kind of solution increases the flashlight's resistance to falls ?, all energy at the moment of contact with the ground is no longer transferred to the controller, or at least I think so
And the most important element of the flashlight.
PX30LC2-R equipped with C3200L SC controller.
It probably does not have an electronic protection against reverse polarity, which means the need to use cells with a protruding plus.
Turn on the flashlight with the tactical button located in the cap.
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS, but it ALWAYS starts in MAX mode (this mode works for 200 seconds and then reduces the current by 20%!).Turn on the flashlight, it starts in MAX mode, no last mode memory.However, it is possible to turn on the flashlight in MOON mode.For this we have to press the button on the head, and just turn on the flashlight, at this point the flashlight will turn on in MOON mode.
The control looks like this:
- (We change single clicks) MAX, very low, low, medium, high
Very low, low, medium, high, MAX (hold the side click when turning on the flashlight)
- With the flashlight on, hold down the button for 3 seconds and activate the strobe mode to switch off the flashlight.
I personally do not like this idea very much, PX30 is a great model, I would prefer that TURBO is hidden, to the rest I have no objection, flash modes are hidden, and well.
Button equipped with blue LED.Every time you turn on the flashlight and every change of mode, it informs us about the current charge level - great solution, this item is brilliant!
The S25L-R has a very powerful W1900 driver, and we will not see much from the driver side either.Again, there is probably no protection against reverse polarity, so there is a need for positive outliers.
Use the tactical button on the cap to activate the flashlight.There is no button for changing modes in this model.Modes change by loosening the head of the flashlight.
We have modes such as MAX, medium, low.There is also a hidden strobe mode to turn it on, when turning on the flashlight we have to do a half-click and quickly turn on the flashlight, no matter where the head is, this mode always works in MAX mode.
So: to change the mode we have to loosen the head, but when we do the flashlight is not so resistant to water!, There is no price here double oars, which is even in the competition lanterns.This is a big oversight!
Here is also a charge indicator, but the flashlight just starts flashing.This is especially annoying when using MAX mode, and most for the first minute when the voltage on the cell is already around 3.7V, then every moment can flash, after waiting one minute (time needed to reduce the current) everything returns to normal.
Driver performance for PX30 in MAX mode.After 200 seconds of starting in MAX mode, the flashlight lowers the current to about 2.5A, which is about 80%.With the Nichia Led, this level is about 1h, while the XP-L Hi is about 45min (differences in graphs may be due to the use of different cells in different states, I did not use the EAGTAC included in the Samsung INR18650-35E).In my opinion, the driver in terms of performance is great!I will add that the flashlight is getting very hot and such results are only achieved on cool days or when we are moving!
Interesting driver in S25L-R:
(All measured on the ***)
Without cooling:
Up to 3 minutes, after the first minute the current drops to 3.07A for a minute, then is raised to 3.56A, and up to 3 minutes 2-3 times jumped for a few seconds at about 3.8A (no graph, Minute) and then as in the graph.I checked the laser thermometer, and in the 38 minutes of flashlight test was about 75 degrees, in normal use it is rather impossible.The flashlight turned off when the link was removed from the flashlight with 3.47V
Water in a glass to start with 20 * C
Up to about 20 minutes the current is raised to about 3.8-4A every few seconds (these are the ones on the graph, actually looking more flat, but I wanted to show it), the flashlight turned off when the voltage on the cell was 3, 5V.
Water in the glass at the beginning of 5 * C
After the first minute drop for a few seconds to about 3.2A (so it was in every measurement), to about 18 minutes there were no drops (unless some I have not noticed), from 20 minutes there were several drops to about 3.7A When the water has changed its temperature, it switches off at 26 minutes for 28 minutes at 3.6 volts on the cell to switch off completely.
The observation is that when the voltage on the cell is below 3.5-3.6V at low temperature in TURBO mode the torch turns off temporarily.At higher temp when the current after the torch is switched on will be lower at about 3.3-3.4V, so when the cell is down to about 3.6V TURBO mode is only an add-on for a few seconds, you have to set lower mode.
I checked whether these intensity drops are visible when the torch is lying down without cooling, and are actually visible until the high temperature of the controller decreases the current.
On the other hand, this graph clearly shows that the torch does not like water and cooling.She is just working under normal conditions, not laboratory, extreme, test.
The manufacturer states that when the torches reach a temperature of about 60 degrees they start to lower the current (but not somehow radically).This does not mean that you do not have to watch your equipment!In the photo 68.7 * C for S25L-R, but you can believe me that achieving 75 * C + is not something impossible
Here is already 74 * C for the PX30.Be careful of these flashlights, they are really "powerful" and the electronics will not do anything for us.Once again I will write, PX30 heats up very fast!
Not without reason, the weight of this light is just over 60 grams.The center tube is so thin that in some bicycle mounts, for example in the famous 360 degrees, it just is loose!
S25L-R is already a weight at Nitecore SRT7GT level and is bigger and "stronger"
The short EAGTAC series
S25L-R on Nitecore SRT7GT
And here the larger family of flashlights in turn: EAGTAC PX30LC2-R, Acebeam EC350, Nitecore SRT7GT, EAGTAC S25L-R.Which ones do you think are the best?For me personally EAGTAC and they are doing a great job, the Acebeam EC35 still looks great!
Field shots, camera settings ISO-200, f / 2, 2s
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
Nitecore EC4 (Mod on XM-L2 U2 3C)
Pictures for color comparison of individual flashlights, camera settings ISO-200, f / 2, 2s, white balance - Fluorescent H
Acebeam EC35
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI and Convoy S2 + 2.8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI together
Convoy S2 + 2.8A T6 3C (about 5000K)
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi with diffuser
And pictures at home, white balance is still Fluorescent H, but I changed the flashlight mode and exposure times (I tried not to overexpose too much pictures)
Acebeam EC35
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R XP-L Hi 4000K
EAGTAC PX30LC2-R Nichia 219C 4000K 92CRI
Convoy S2 + 2,8A Nichia 219C 5000K 83CRI
Convoy S2 + 2.8A T6 3C (about 5000K)
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi
Nitecore MH27UV
EAGTAC S25L-R XHP35 Hi with diffuser
Link to full size:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B2m6JuI1fzzqTTJfdFAxaG9tckk?usp=sharing
A few words to summarize:
For more than a month I mostly used the smaller EAGTAC with the XP-L Hi The most memorable thing about myself was the lack of memory of the last mode.I do not count how many times someone took the PX30 and turned it on, and here the MAX and 1000lm mode!On the other hand, it's a sign, do not move
Sometimes the situation required to put the flashlight in the candle position (even in the stormy days when I was having problems with the electricity supply I put the flashlight in the glass to not turn me down) - this problem affects both models.The next element that draws my attention is the PX30 rubber seal, the manufacturer gives us a 10-year warranty, on the one hand it allows it to be quiet, but on the other hand, if it were to protect the metal / aluminum the problem would not be there at all.And yet smaller, but worth mentioning, the EAGTAC for his flashlight does not spare a spare eraser on the switch.
Going to the pros.I can not go next to great quality workmanship, beautiful metal lace, smooth headlamps (such as nitecore ribbed), Nichia LEDs, warm XP-L, delicate mating or finally USB Type C port in S25L-R, The cord fits both ways, it is less vulnerable to malfunction than micro USB.Although I use the phone with such an entrance, still the market is not saturated with phones (generally devices) with this solution, I think next year, when USB C will be more popular, this step forward is already very future, That flashlights are expected to operate for a minimum of 10 years!The other way went the PX30 model, well, that such a port is good, I wish it was not USB Type C.
And .... the driver, these are very efficient, the best, their performance is noticeable mainly for everyday use rather than testing in cool water, and it is great in these drivers!
At the end, EAGTAC is a powerful, beautiful flashlight without the unnecessary colored LEDs and other accessories that we will probably never use.Standing before choosing a flashlight, take into account EAGTAC, and this time, PX30LC2R joins my next Acebeam EC35, Securyting 700 (mod) and Nitecore EC4 (mod) to my main EDC!
Successful shopping !
Regards
Eryk"
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