New 'superbulb' for your vintage lights!

Minimoog

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Amazing is all I can say - I ordered a couple of 6V 20W MES halogen bulbs from eBay fully expecting them to be those yellow underdriven types, but no - looks like we have a new MES champion to take your vintage torch into ROP high territory. It is super white, belts out a shedload of heat and is a true 20 Watt at 6 Volts and takes over driving well too. If your vintage lights can take the heat then you can make them into a real screamer.

On eBay type in:

Halogen Glühlampe Taschenlampe Fahrradlampe Lampe Birne E10 2,8-6V 2-20W

Look at this https://www.dropbox.com/s/pd62fitr87i21qo/20170801_145306.jpg?dl=0 25 Watts and still room for more!

I'm actually giddy with excitement! Had to share here.
 

LiftdT4R

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Very cool! Are they a flange base bulb like the PRs? They're likely putting out around 350 lumens assuming about a 15 lumen/watt efficiency. At 6 V they're probably best used with 4 or 5 D cells. I would think on a Maglite you're going to need an aluminum reflector and glass lens. I may have to pickup a couple to try.
 

Minimoog

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Very cool! Are they a flange base bulb like the PRs? They're likely putting out around 350 lumens assuming about a 15 lumen/watt efficiency. At 6 V they're probably best used with 4 or 5 D cells. I would think on a Maglite you're going to need an aluminum reflector and glass lens. I may have to pickup a couple to try.

Hi, these are MES so not for PR lights. Vintage lights are usually screw fit and choices are limited for super bright lamps in this fitment so it's a real treat I think that these are available. Also vintage torches are all metal so no melting plastic problems.
 

bykfixer

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Thanks for the tip.

Now which 2C Franco wants to be an ROP, raise your hand.
riHEyCi.jpg


We have a volunteer...
Z9fUJv6.jpg

Time to dust off the Franken-light...
This 2 cell ever-HIPCO-vac was assembled from spare parts in case a hot wire idea came along.
May have to wear an oven mitt when using it though.
 
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Minimoog

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They LOVE 7.2 Volts confirmed. 26 Watts at that point. Oh man, so many possibilities!

2 x 26650, an old 20's 3D light plus one of these = prepare to be amazed.
 

broadgage

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Sounds interesting, but do be aware that no readily available disposable cell or battery will be able to drive these. Over 3 amps, or nearly 4 amps if over driven a bit.
Two paralleled strings of L91 lithium cells would just do it, but that is 10 fairly expensive cells for a short run time.
Needs rechargeables really though.

I would think twice about use in a valuable vintage light, at those sorts of currents I would fear heat damage to the switch or the bulb holder.
 

Minimoog

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Sounds interesting, but do be aware that no readily available disposable cell or battery will be able to drive these. Over 3 amps, or nearly 4 amps if over driven a bit.
Two paralleled strings of L91 lithium cells would just do it, but that is 10 fairly expensive cells for a short run time.
Needs rechargeables really though.

I would think twice about use in a valuable vintage light, at those sorts of currents I would fear heat damage to the switch or the bulb holder.

Some good points. My suggestions for using this bulb are as follows:

Make sure your light is all metal - no bakelite or plastic insulators adjacent to the bulb.
Ensure the switch is capable of 4 Amps. To be fair most are, but some will be oxidized so keep them clean as a whistle.
Don't use primary cells - only rechargeables.
Don't leave the light on for more than a few minutes as it will get hot.
Don't use it in rare or historic lights - just in case.

I am using it in a really scrappy looking 1920 Ever Ready and in this light I have double wall metal head, all brass construction, very low resistance switch (I stripped and cleaned it out) and runs 2x6 parallel stacks of AA Eneloop Pro cells. In this I get a wall of white light, no flicker or over temperature issues and it is very usable and potent.
 

bykfixer

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^^ Well there goes the idea of a doing a 1921 3D Rayolite from the San Fenando rail road yard. It's all metal and glass, but the vulcanite body might melt from the contact strip(s) getting hot. And an oven mitt would be required if I do the metal body'd Burgess range finder from 1923...
 

Minimoog

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^^ Well there goes the idea of a doing a 1921 3D Rayolite from the San Fenando rail road yard. It's all metal and glass, but the vulcanite body might melt from the contact strip(s) getting hot. And an oven mitt would be required if I do the metal body'd Burgess range finder from 1923...

I think the bulb can be safely used in Vulcanite lights if you do some trial runs to see how the heat is managed and work out a maximum safe runtime. As the metal case gets hot and quickly, the bulb holder will be the first thing to heat up. If you have a miners light (like the Concordia) that has not one bit of plastic in it and would be an ideal candidate.
 

Minimoog

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Sorry to not be around much recently.

Yes, the link John gave is the one. I have just been testibg it and it is a little underdriven at 6 Volts and it really needs about 7.8 at which point it is kicking out 34 Watts and drawing 3.8 Amps. It heats up quite a lot so don't use it in plastic or bakelite holders. 34 Watts is a lot of white light and lights up a whole area.
 
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