Halogen headlight bulbs - marketing vs reality?

kuksul08

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Jun 4, 2007
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Hey all,
I'm looking at upgrading the headlight bulb in my motorcycle, which uses a dual halogen reflector setup with an H7 bulb in each reflector. One side is the low beam and the other is the high beam. I am aware that doing an LED or HID retrofit is not legal, and it wouldn't fit in the tiny housing anyway. I am looking for more brightness - not too worried about the tint.

However, I am really skeptical about the numerous ratings that are advertised with numbers such as "+100%" and "+130%". It is my understanding that H7 bulbs have a rated light output by law, and that is that. Is there an actual physical difference between these high output "xtreme" bulbs compared to the standard replacement options, other than the minor blue banding and slightly whiter tint? If they are all 55W, how can they claim to get more brightness from one compared to another?

Sorry if this has been discussed before. I tried searching and couldn't find a specific thread. Thank you.
 

flip

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Jun 18, 2006
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Cherryville, NC
One of my bikes uses 2 H7 bulbs(low and high beam) and the other uses an H7 for the low beam. I have been using Osram H7 65w Rally bulbs which I just read are discontinued. They were a noticeable improvement over the used bulbs they replaced. But since bulbs lose light as they age, comparing an old bulb to a new one isn't a fair assessment of the new bulb. I have found useful info on bulbs on Candlepower.com and Daniel Stern Lighting.
 

jzchen

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Arcadia, CA
I'm sure the moderators here will explain better than me. The little filaments are wound in spiral coils. I believe they are wound tighter on the higher output bulbs. Not sure, but it may be possible that the gas inside is pressurized more. While you do really gain in brightness, you lose in longevity, the brightest lasting much shorter.....
 

Alaric Darconville

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Stillwater, America
Sorry if this has been discussed before. I tried searching and couldn't find a specific thread. Thank you.

There are many threads mentioning the bulbs, and if you dig around really deep and change your search parameters, you might find more that help to explain just what that means.

You're right to be skeptical about bulbmakers' claims, particularly when you see many posts warning about blue-tinted bulb envelopes. However, the makers of those also say things like "55W=100W" and other imposibilities.


This isn't the case with the +100/+130 bulbs. As jzchen has menctioned, the filament is wound more tightly and has a much smaller hotspot and higher luminance (in cd/m2​), which can bring the total output of the bulb outside of the legal specification. To counter this, blue banding is used on the envelope to cut the total output, but the part of the filament that a reflector actually 'sees' and can focus is left un-blocked, so the useful light is still focused onto the road, and with the better focus you get a better down-road hotspot, and somewhere IN that hotspot is that extra light.

The blue banding also results in that so-called "stylish" or "luxury" look when the lamp is viewed off-axis.

The drawback, as jzchen has also said, is shorter bulb life.
 

kuksul08

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Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
783
Location
California
There are many threads mentioning the bulbs, and if you dig around really deep and change your search parameters, you might find more that help to explain just what that means.

You're right to be skeptical about bulbmakers' claims, particularly when you see many posts warning about blue-tinted bulb envelopes. However, the makers of those also say things like "55W=100W" and other imposibilities.


This isn't the case with the +100/+130 bulbs. As jzchen has menctioned, the filament is wound more tightly and has a much smaller hotspot and higher luminance (in cd/m2​), which can bring the total output of the bulb outside of the legal specification. To counter this, blue banding is used on the envelope to cut the total output, but the part of the filament that a reflector actually 'sees' and can focus is left un-blocked, so the useful light is still focused onto the road, and with the better focus you get a better down-road hotspot, and somewhere IN that hotspot is that extra light.

The blue banding also results in that so-called "stylish" or "luxury" look when the lamp is viewed off-axis.

The drawback, as jzchen has also said, is shorter bulb life.

Thanks so much. I must have been searching the wrong terms... the explanations in those threads was very helpful. You guys know your stuff!
 

CeeBee

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Mar 16, 2017
Messages
29
I can understand manufacturers placing a blue band to keep the low beam withing legal limits. What I can't understand is why they insist on covering most of the bulb with a blue coating, which results in less high beam efficiency than with a standard bulb.
I find it extremely annoying when switching from a bright low beam (using Osram Nightbreaker style bulbs) to high beam and having much less intensity plus that awful blueish tint to the light.
My go around is auxiliary bosch pilot 160's to supplement the high beam, but it's increasingly difficult to fit auxiliary lights on modern cars and most people have to make do with the factory lights.
It seems to be a question of either having a stronger low beam and a weaker high beam, or stick to the standard bulb and have a weaker low and a better high.
 
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