'14 Scion iQ Headlight Upgrade

jzchen

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Basically, replaced my totalled smart with a '14 Scion iQ. Driving 400 miles home from Sacramento it felt a little dim during the night, although I must say I didn't have trouble seeing even though I suffer from night blindness.

I did see in certain cases H9 is a possibility, but I'd rather ask first than risk lives:. What's the best upgrades for the headlights please?

Thank you, and take care.
 

Alaric Darconville

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I'd go so far as to say "check your aim first", but then again doing the aim *after* the bulb replacement ensures the aim is accurate if you were going to go ahead and upgrade anyway. Bulbs are fairly cheap- certainly cheaper than striking an elk.
 

jzchen

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Thank you both. (I'm afraid even though my phablet has a 6.1" screen, it doesn't show all responses unless I try scrolling down)! I got a CarFax that was clean, but I didn't/haven't checked the AutoCheck. I did find a front end damage receipt from a collision center. I wonder if they properly aimed the lights after the work. Seems like passenger side is set a little lower than driver side looking at the reflection on a wall...

It was really strange. I felt it was dim, but I could see fine. I attribute it to not having bright foreground lighting and my pupils not constricting. My wife's BMW has HIDs which make the night kind of like day in comparison...

I will definitely research getting a proper aim in my area, and if I find a place with a proper machine, I will come back to note where it is.
 

-Virgil-

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I did find a front end damage receipt from a collision center. I wonder if they properly aimed the lights after the work.

Good question. Another: I wonder if they maybe installed aftermarket replacement "headlamps".
 

Alaric Darconville

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I wonder if they maybe installed aftermarket replacement "headlamps".

I was about to ask the same thing.

If you see "TYC", "Spyder" or "DEPO" on the lenses you'll know for sure. If there aren't any brand markings on the lens itself (the correct ones may be branded Koito (or NAL) or Stanley), then the body of the lamp assembly will bear "Toyota" molded in in several locations.

Fog lamps may be branded Valeo or Stanley (not to be confused with the hand tools maker).
 
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jzchen

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Haven't been able to inspect the right headlight yet. Says on the receipt "OEM" with a $240.xx price tag.
 

jzchen

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The lights on both sides note Koito. (You guys are the "lighting gods"). The car needs an oil change, so I'm going to prioritize that for now...

May try to fit the Sylvania ZEVO FOG DRLs, as the fit kit did not readily fit onto my parents' '12 Prius v. (I have a feeling it will not fit here without modification as well)...
 

jzchen

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I must confess I'm not too fond of "modification" work, so I found these "extensions":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TXRWOPA/?tag=cpf0b6-20

I'm wondering if it would take care of the need to make changes to the bulb connector? Then I wouldn't need to make the H9 modification every time I need to replace a bulb.

Thank you.
 
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-Virgil-

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All those things are good for is adding extra resistance to the headlight circuit. Do the job correctly or don't do it at all, I say.
 

Alaric Darconville

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I must confess I'm not too fond of "modification" work, so I found these "extensions"
You're about to go under for heart surgery, and you see medical instruments and tools branded "Medi-TOYZ". Do you c) call everything to a halt and find a surgeon who uses real medical equipment?

Even the highest-quality extension cord (and that's all these really are is extension cords, and of dubious quality on top of that) adds unecessary resistance at each termination and with the additional length of wire.

Definitely better just to mod the base every single time.
 
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jzchen

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Thank you. When I get the bulbs I'll put them "under the scalpel". Funny, but that iJDMToy company is really near me. They actually moved from a small space to a much bigger one, also nearby....
 

Alaric Darconville

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Funny, but that iJDMToy company is really near me. They actually moved from a small space to a much bigger one, also nearby....
Unfortunately for people use their products, and the people that share the road with those users, most of what they make is of dubious quality and safety.
 

jzchen

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Haven't purchased a single item from them. (They didn't have the proper length bolt for a front license plate no drill bracket I was looking for). There are so many aftermarket lighting products out there. I'll just stick to the good stuff. [emoji846]
 

jzchen

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Two questions I'm afraid:

1. I searched and searched. Is there an "official" way to modify the H9 bulb? Some note that the bulb fits some housings without modifying the one mounting tab in question, while others note to trim it.

2. Is there any objection to cutting a notch into the connector on the vehicle, so that the H9 fits the electrical connector as is? Haven't seen anything about this in all my searching, but can't really think of a reason why not, (at least up to now). I'm not the best with a knife or Exacto blade, but...

Thanks again for the advice!!!
 

64.5vette

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I searched and searched. Is there an "official" way to modify the H9 bulb? Some note that the bulb fits some housings without modifying the one mounting tab in question, while others note to trim it.

My '15 Mazda 3 takes h9s without modifying the part that locks into the headlamp. Only trim if and what is necessary. Google has plenty of images of trimmed h9s.

Is there any objection to cutting a notch into the connector on the vehicle, so that the H9 fits the electrical connector as is? Haven't seen anything about this in all my searching, but can't really think of a reason why not, (at least up to now). I'm not the best with a knife or Exacto blade, but...

I used a Dremel to cut a notch in my OEM h11 plug of the headlight harness. That way I can accept any H9 without modification (in case of remote burnout).
 

jzchen

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Thanks 64.5vette!

You can remove them easily without the locking tab cut? Sounded like some had to wedge them in somehow. But I'll take a look if I can see the mounting area. (The iQ-forums is getting a little more lively so I can report there. It is such a low volume model).

I actually have a Dremel so it is nice to know it can cut the plug. I guess a knife might be used to finish the cut?

Again, thank you so much for the response!
 

64.5vette

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Thanks 64.5vette!

You can remove them easily without the locking tab cut? Sounded like some had to wedge them in somehow. But I'll take a look if I can see the mounting area. (The iQ-forums is getting a little more lively so I can report there. It is such a low volume model).

I actually have a Dremel so it is nice to know it can cut the plug. I guess a knife might be used to finish the cut?

Again, thank you so much for the response!

I stopped driving it roughly a year ago, but IIRC there was no resistance or binding of the headlamp socket with untrimmed H9s. I used a Dremel heavy duty cutting disk on medium-low speed and made several cuts to the harness plug until the unmodified H9 could fit all the way in. No knife needed, just Dremel, inset bulb, test fitment and repeat a few times. Literally took me 30s-1m per side (I did the h11 fogs also to store 2x spare H9s).
 
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