Advice Request for new Light

Greetings from W. TX - new member here - although I have lurked for quite some time.

I recently attempted to upgrade an older Surefire G2 with a conversion kit from flea-bay (Chinese CREE Q5 LED Drop-In module with reflector and aluminum head) and, of course, it didn't fit correctly. Quality Malkoff parts are more than I would want to spend on an old G2, so I have decided to relegate the G2, as originally configured, to the toolbox for emergency/automotive use.

I have several old Maglights and a Sunwayman C20C Tomahawk I am pleased with, but I find the user interface a bit cumbersome. I am interested in an 18650 new flashlight purchase and I am currently contemplating (in order of preference) a Texas Lumens P-60 (not sure which variation yet, but I'm leaning towards a Ripple or a Outfielder) or a Malkoff M61 High/Low Switch MD2.

I plan to use the light for general lighting purposes around the house, camping/hunting, spotlighting and to a lesser extent, defense.

What I like about the Texas Lumens (1150 lumens) is the quality and that it has 5 modes: 5%, 30%, 100%, Strobe, Beacon & Last Mode Memory and that they will custom make or modify a light for a customer. What I like about the Malkoff is the quality and durability, but I don't like the fact that it only has the High/Low modes. I don't often need high lumens (I consider anything approaching 1,000 lumens and above as 'high') but it's nice to know the capability is there when it's needed. I also like the moonlight mode on my Tomahawk, which neither the Texas Lumens or Malkoff has.

I should also mention that I have looked at many Nitecore, Sunwayman, Surefire, etc. offerings, which are certainly nice, excellent flashlights, but they lack that custom feel and seem almost generic at this point and I'd like to purchase a product made in USA this time around (I'm aware Surefire is U.S. made). I would like to keep the purchase price in the $130.00 range or below. I am interested in thoughts on the two lights I mentioned, recommendations and suggestions on other lights to consider, and general advice from those more knowledgeable than I am on the subject.

What say you? Thanks in advance.

High_Noon

Don't archive that G2. Go to Mountain Electronics, and under the P60 tab you will find the CUXM/CUXP drop in. I would say get the Nichia option, but it has been sold out for a while. With the CREE you have several options as to tint, and can select one of several different options for mode numbers and spacing. All for around $20 USD. I have one and love it. If you don't have a holster, he sells one that is really nice. It is the one with all the stars. Just the right size for a G2.

Yes, don't chuck the G2 they are very useful lights.
If you want the MD2 you could get it with an M361 module, which would give you 3 levels. With the HiLo ring thats 6 levels.
My MD2s are my most durable and useful lights, I never go out without this one.
P

Timothy: Thanks for the Mountain Electronics recommendation. I now have to figure which CUXP/CUXM option/variation to get for my G2. I'll also likely need to source a Z44 head and maybe get a McClicky upgrade kit/tailcap.

Peter: That's good to know about the Malkoff MD2 – I will definitely look into that.

I go with the Texas Lumens and add what ever P60 drop in you'd like. I have a fully kitted copper TL and it works just fine with Malkoff dropins I also built my own dropin for it but that's besides the point.

It makes my MD4 Malkoff feel flimsy.

High_Noon said:

Timothy: Thanks for the Mountain Electronics recommendation. I now have to figure which CUXP/CUXM option/variation to get for my G2. I'll also likely need to source a Z44 head and maybe get a McClicky upgrade kit/tailcap.

Click to expand...

I just went for the same head that came with the G2. The only caveat is that you shouldn't run on turbo for long periods of time because the thermal characteristics of Nitrolon are definitely not the greatest. And I think Lumens Factory has McClicky caps, and I know Illumination Systems has them.

staticx57: Thanks for the input. I was hoping someone here was familiar with the TX Lumens lights and I suspected that their lights were substantial - they definitely seem to have the custom look/feel I'm looking for. Which P60 light and which drop-in did you select?

Timothybil said:

I just went for the same head that came with the G2. The only caveat is that you shouldn't run on turbo for long periods of time because the thermal characteristics of Nitrolon are definitely not the greatest. And I think Lumens Factory has McClicky caps, and I know Illumination Systems has them.

Click to expand...

Timothy: Thanks. I was considering the Mountain Electronics XM-L2 U3 3D: Neutral White, in 3 mode, but they state "For 1 x 4.2v/4.35v lithium-ion battery (can NOT be run with two cells in series)" for all the CUXP/CUXM drop ins, unless I read it wrong. And as you know, the G2s run on two CR123s in series. I found someone that can bore out Surfires for 18650s, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle or if the G2 can even be bored. What do you suggest?

I should also mention that I am learning about the different drop-ins, but I don't understand all the differences quite yet, including the difference between orange peel/polished reflectors, etc.

You could run it on a 16650 which will fit your G2. The 16650 used to be second best to its fatter brother the 18650, but lately they are getting much better capacities.
P

peter yetman said:

You could run it on a 16650 which will fit your G2. The 16650 used to be second best to its fatter brother the 18650, but lately they are getting much better capacities.
P

Click to expand...

Between the CR123s and 18650s I already run, as well as traditional batteries, I think I'd like to stick with 18650s and forgo yet another type of battery. Thanks for the heads-up, though.

*****

I just read that the 20700 and the 21700 or "21-70" are becoming increasingly popular due to Tesla and that the 18650 was originally designed by Tesla with "preconceived" notions and that the 20700 and the 21-70 are optimized for efficiency, size and output. While the 21-70 may become the new standard, the 20700 should be around for a long time as well. (This information came from the XTAR website). The 18650 will likely be phased out, but I imagine that it will still be around for a long time as well. It seems that the 20700 and the new 21-70 are significantly more efficient the the 18650.

With this in mind, I would consider a light with a 20700 cell and adding yet another battery type to the arsenal.

High_Noon said:

staticx57: Thanks for the input. I was hoping someone here was familiar with the TX Lumens lights and I suspected that their lights were substantial - they definitely seem to have the custom look/feel I'm looking for. Which P60 light and which drop-in did you select?

Click to expand...

They are really nice. Here is it compared to a Malkoff P60 module:

Here it is next to kitted out surefire setup:

Here is my drop-in:

The drop in I assembled myself using the Texas Lumens Blank in copper and added a triple XP-G3 4000k 90CRI soldered to the pill and with a Texas Avenger temperature controlled max output driver (FET+8 running Bistro firmware)

High_Noon said:

I should also mention that I am learning about the different drop-ins, but I don't understand all the differences quite yet, including the difference between orange peel/polished reflectors, etc.

Click to expand...

Welcome to the forum! I learn new things here every day.


A smooth, polished reflector creates a sharply defined hot spot in the center of the beam and usually generates more throw.


An orange peel reflector produces a bit less throw, but makes a wider, smoother beam with an easier transition from hot spot to spill.

[FONT=&quot]staticx57: Exceptionally cool light and the drop-in looks awesome. Please forgive my ignorance, but what's the advantage of the 3-element LED and is there a reflector as well?[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]I would like to build a light similar to yours with the body parts Texas Lumens has available. Although I'm mechanically adept, I'm afraid building a drop-in such as yours is beyond my knowledge at this point. I'd probably be better off going with one of their pre-assembled lights. [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Modernflame: Thanks for the welcome and the information regarding reflectors. I'm sure I will continue to learn more on this forum.[/FONT]

High_Noon said:

Timothy: Thanks. I was considering the Mountain Electronics XM-L2 U3 3D: Neutral White, in 3 mode, but they state "For 1 x 4.2v/4.35v lithium-ion battery (can NOT be run with two cells in series)" for all the CUXP/CUXM drop ins, unless I read it wrong. And as you know, the G2s run on two CR123s in series. I found someone that can bore out Surfires for 18650s, but I'm not sure it's worth the hassle or if the G2 can even be bored. What do you suggest?

I should also mention that I am learning about the different drop-ins, but I don't understand all the differences quite yet, including the difference between orange peel/polished reflectors, etc.

Click to expand...

I bought one 16650 Li-Ion cell and it works just fine. Yes, you won't be able to use two CR123/RCR123/16340 cells, but that isn't an issue for me. I still have the P60s that my Surefires originally came from, so if I ever get into a situation where I have use CR123s I can just switch back. But I have a nice solar cell setup and a couple of power banks, so I should never have to fall back to primary cells.

High_Noon said:

staticx57: Exceptionally cool light and the drop-in looks awesome. Please forgive my ignorance, but what's the advantage of the 3-element LED and is there a reflector as well?

I would like to build a light similar to yours with the body parts Texas Lumens has available. Although I'm mechanically adept, I'm afraid building a drop-in such as yours is beyond my knowledge at this point. I'd probably be better off going with one of their pre-assembled lights.

Modernflame: Thanks for the welcome and the information regarding reflectors. I'm sure I will continue to learn more on this forum.

Click to expand...

Back in the day when LEDs weren't as powerful as they are now, a triple like that was a way to get more lumens out the front. And yes, there are reflectors there. Some triples don't have them and some do. A reflector helps gather the light into a beam so it throws further but not as far to each side. With a reflector, the deeper the reflector, the better the throw, for the most part. In a triple like this the reflectors aren't very deep, so they do help concentrate the light in the center, but not as much as a deeper reflector would. To me, a triple would be good for a short to medium range light with a concentration in the center but a wide spill as well. It would be good for seeing a ways in front while still being able to see reasonably well to side.

Nice thread with good information.
American made Oveready is an option if you buy used.

PFlexPRO should be checked out in that they are made in USA and using imported hosts, as well as (advanced programming) dropins that are stellar. Randy there also has a video describing an excellent way to install a P60 drop in.

Texas Lumens looks great, might be a bit weighty though. That's OK if you want that.

Timothy: Thanks for the info. I guess I might consider the 16650 if I decide to upgrade the 'ol G2. I may give Mountain Electronics a call and see if they have a drop-in available that will work with 2 CR123s in series as I have about a dozen of them on hand. Also the TL series of lights offered by Texas Lumens utilize a triple LED, which boosts the maximum output to 3300, which is quite a step up, but for nearly double the price and an increase in overall dimensions and weight as well.

sataticx57: I imagine your copper light is quite heavy for its size. I've several ½" copper plates of varying sizes, so I believe I have a good idea on the weight. Do you find the weight unwieldy or awkward in any way? I read that the TL blender is nicely weighted in hand, but have yet to find any comment on the all copper or all aluminum versions. My concern with the mixed copper/aluminum offerings is galvanic corrosion between the two dissimilar metals. I'm not really concerned about the copper as it's relatively stable, but the aluminum, when in contact with the copper and an electrolyte such as water, can easily corrode. I wonder if this could be an issue, long term as I often use my lights in the rain. I also wanted to ask you if there is a provision on the TL lights for the addition of a lanyard?

KITROBASKIN: Thanks for the recommendations, I'll take a look.

*****

EDIT:
I was just informed by Texas Lumens, on another thread, that he/they are aware of the potential for galvanic reaction between copper and aluminum, but have never had a problem reported - even for hunters, ranchers and first responders who undoubtedly encounter wet conditions.

High_Noon,

Indeed the light is quite substantial and weighty, part of the reason why I like it. I don't have an aluminium one but I am imagining it weighing quite a bit less than the copper and probably much better as a user light. The light itself is quite balanced throughout but as you say it's pretty much a huge piece of copper, no getting away from it. No lanyard option on mine and I do not believe any come with a provision for one. Might as TL themselves if they can add something there for you

As far as corrosion, an entirely aluminum light but using a copper drop in should not be much of a problem as the light would be oring sealed to prevent water from getting inside.

staticx57: You confirmed my suspicions regarding the weight issue. I definitely do like the copper, but as you stated, the aluminum would surely make a better user light due to the lighter weight, which would be better for my use.

Since hearing back from TL on the corrosion issue, I'm not particularly concerned about a mixed metal light, i.e an aluminum body and copper bezel.

I just ordered a Texas Lumens P-60 CU Magnum, with an OP reflector in a 20700 battery size. I was told by Dan at TL that, to his eyes, there is no discernible difference between the OP reflector and the polished reflector. I look forward to receiving the light and I will post my impressions after I have had a chance to use the light for a while.

Thanks to everyone for the advice and information.