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Nichia!

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Hi ZL[emoji112]

I want to say Hello and I love your products very much and I really wish that you listen to our voices:)

Please Could just do the following to SC600 IV & SC64 Series.

1. Please bring back Springs. No more pogo pins please!

2. No more Battery Rattles.

3. Perfect anodizing.

4. And if you could could you just make them PWM FREE Please?

5. This one is Special and let's just say am dreaming of Nichia 219b Hi CRI SC64!
 

ven

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Good luck mr nichia as mr zebralight does not like nichia LED's, he prefers CREE from a thread on here. I personally think the 219c 4000-5700k would suit the ZL's. Not rosy of which he would like, can be pushed more than the 219b to get their lumen figures up as well.

I am not a fan of the xp-l2 really, its ok but so far i am not over impressed generally. Maybe my eyes are more conditioned to some of the nichias.................dont know. I am happy about their choice in xhp's , certainly happy about their kelvin choices. I am pretty new to ZL myself, but admit from the manufacturers...............ZL are nothing but awesomeness . Their size, new UI.............they seem to hit all the spots for me.

Once some UK stock of the newer models are available in the UK, i will be investing in 1 or 2 more for sure.

Good luck with your wish list! Do zebralight come on here? do they read posts/threads? Would be very cool if they had an employee who took part a little, even if it was just 1hr a week. I think both parties(customer/manufacturer) would benefit greatly. Its impossible to please all, but i am also sure there would be a lot of common ground:)
 

emarkd

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I'm curious what a Nichia has over a high-CRI 4000K Cree emitter already used by ZL?

Clean tint, which is not the same thing as high cri. Most Nichias are very neutral, and by that I mean they fall very close to the bbl. And the ones that do drift a bit tend to go toward the red end, rosy. Most Crees are not, especially the high-cri ones. Those tend to be green.
 

Erik1213

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As far as I can tell, both of the lights you're complaining about haven't even been released to the public yet.

1. Where does it show they went to pogo pins in the tailcap?

2. On what model does your battery rattle? None of mine do. But I am using the battery they designed the light around.

3. What anodization issues have you been having? I find ZL anodization to be some of the strongest I've seen.

4. What ZL model do you have that has PWM? My old SC51f that I use as a headlight is the only model I've had from them that has PWM on some modes. Nothing made after that though.
 

KITROBASKIN

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As far as I can tell, both of the lights you're complaining about haven't even been released to the public yet.

1. Where does it show they went to pogo pins in the tailcap?

2. On what model does your battery rattle? None of mine do. But I am using the battery they designed the light around.

3. What anodization issues have you been having? I find ZL anodization to be some of the strongest I've seen.

4. What ZL model do you have that has PWM? My old SC51f that I use as a headlight is the only model I've had from them that has PWM on some modes. Nothing made after that though.

Good points but thinking Nichia! would say he isn't exactly complaining.
Also guessing his PWM concerns are born of phone camera phenomenon and a certain kind of scrutiny.
Some members in the past have voiced dislike against anodizing color variations, say, between body and tailcap, etc.
Using pins instead of springs does limit battery choice, as has been thoroughly discussed here on CPF.
Looks like some of the newer Nichia offerings also lean to the green. Seems like it would be wise to specifically request the warmer tinted Nichia. I personally would love an everso slightly more rose tint in a ~5000K high CRI (SC64d).
My SC62d's have wonderfully durable anodizing, and yes, ZebraLight does read our comments here on CPF. They stopped officially responding here years ago, understandably so. Perhaps we could convince them to make a "sprint run" of limited production but enough to make a profit (Something like Spyderco does to continue interest in their wares).
 

viciousLUX

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I wonder if anyone else is missing ~250lm. Medium mode? That's holding me back for buying more zebras headlamps:(
 

ingokl

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Most of their ligths have at least one available output level of around 300 lumen (if that does not break the deal for you compared to 250 lumen?). And with the new UI you can easily assign this output to the M1 or M2 level.
 
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Ozythemandias

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Jan 4, 2017
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Hi ZL[emoji112]

I want to say Hello and I love your products very much and I really wish that you listen to our voices:)

Please Could just do the following to SC600 IV & SC64 Series.

1. Please bring back Springs. No more pogo pins please!

2. No more Battery Rattles.

3. Perfect anodizing.

4. And if you could could you just make them PWM FREE Please?

5. This one is Special and let's just say am dreaming of Nichia 219b Hi CRI SC64!


My thoughts:

1. Pogo pins are fine in the new layout that places them around the perimeter of the battery contact instead of in the center. Regarding the comment above that pins limit the type of cells you can use, who cares? Silly to make a light bigger to be able fit unnecessary protection circuits.

2. I haven't noticed this issue

3. I have had one SC63W with a darker and weaker anodization than any other zebra. It had a smoother texture and chipped/flaked when dropped. An SC63W I purchased after that was better, perhaps they were doing some experimentation?

4. I haven't been bothered by PWM.

5. I love 4000k 219b emitters! The cr123 and AA models would be awesome with them, especially the headlamps. Imagine a light weight 219b floods headlamp for soldering work or similar, mannnnnnnn
 
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Tachead

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I agree with some of your points but, I have had no issues with their anodizing. In fact, I think it is one of the toughest in the industry. Also, modern ZL's do not use PWM on any mode. This has been confirmed by ZL several times. As for the 219B SC64, I doubt it will ever happen and it would only be 200 or less lumens if it did as ZL doesn't overdrive their emitters and the 219B is pretty inefficient so it generates a lot of heat.
 
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viciousLUX

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Most of their ligths have at least one available output level of around 300 lumen (if that does not break the deal for you compared to 250 lumen?). And with the new UI you can easily assign this output to the M1 or M2 level.

If I'm reading description correctly on zebras site you can't program m2 over 100 lumens... and that is my problem here.. m1 with 100 something lumens is not enough for me. I use mostly 250 and 500lm modes on my wizard while working and switch between those quite lot but you can't use these levels in zebralight without programming h2 mode all the time at least in my mk3 zebras. UI would work better for me if m1 is ~80lm. And m2 ~100 ~200 ~300
 

Nichia!

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ZL Hi PWM on low
fe33eaad28b61497192a774301fa4e95.jpg
 

ingokl

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Within the new UI you have the alternative mode groups G6 and G7. Within these you can assign any of the 12 available output levels to all L, M and H main- and sublevels. That is the most important benefit of the new UI.
 

viciousLUX

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If I'm reading description correctly on zebras site you can't program m2 over 100 lumens... and that is my problem here.. m1 with 100 something lumens is not enough for me. I use mostly 250 and 500lm modes on my wizard while working and switch between those quite lot but you can't use these levels in zebralight without programming h2 mode all the time at least in my mk3 zebras. UI would work better for me if m1 is ~80lm. And m2 ~100 ~200 ~300

It appears that I didn't read their site correctly.. now I see you can program everything on g6 and g7 modes.. thanks for your post ingoki!
 

KITROBASKIN

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Thinking you are misusing the term PWM and therefore misleading newcomers. Consider more research before saying it again. I, for one, do not spend time looking through a phone camera while using a flashlight.

The comment that it is silly to accommodate unneccessary protection circuits is a personal opinion that not everyone else shares, as well as those of us who already have longer batteries that we would like to use. Some of us would like to have another safety circuit, knowing that electronics can fail and factories sometimes make defective flashlights. But haven't we already gone down this road?
 

Nichia!

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Thier anodizing is very strong! But am talking about Factory issues!
2 of ZL comes with some missing anodizing parts
 

Nichia!

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Thinking you are misusing the term PWM and therefore misleading newcomers. Consider more research before saying it again. I, for one, do not spend time looking through a phone camera while using a flashlight.

The comment that it is silly to accommodate unneccessary protection circuits is a personal opinion that not everyone else shares, as well as those of us who already have longer batteries that we would like to use. Some of us would like to have another safety circuit, knowing that electronics can fail and factories sometimes make defective flashlights. But haven't we already gone down this road?

Just because you don't see it doesn't means it's not there!
 

Ozythemandias

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The new layout of the pogo pins places the pins around the perimeter of the contact instead of the center, thereby mitigating the battery denting issue.


It has been discussed many times. Zebra uses a "pseudo-PWM", it's not cutting the LED off completely.

Regarding protection circuits, why would you spend $90 for top of the line electronics and then ask for a bigger light to add your own protection circuit. I'd venture to guess that Zebras protection are better than any included on cells. That's the whole point of buying the best. Otherwise you might as well buy a Nitecore and carry a backup light or three.
 
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