Olight vs Zebralight - Help needed to make my choice

Lumenize

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I'm going to buy a headlamp and have a very hard time deciding between Zebralight of an Olight H2R Nova.
I like very floody without a hotspot. I have no need for a lot of throw. Mostly for close range. For me far starts at 20 yards :)
I like lights that use 18650.

Zebralight looks great from what I can find but have two things that hold me back from buying one.
A] Somewhere I've read that the Olight has lumen/watt so is more efficient. And that means longer runtimes and potentially less stepdown due to heat problems. Can anyone shed some light on that?
B] Related to the previous question is that I can't find no tests showing runtimes in what Zebralight calls PID regulated modes.
A bunch of fancy graphs would be great, but I also would be very happy with the following numbers.
Lumen and duration before stepdown. Lumen and duration after stepdown.
The same question for all PID modes.
I only need those numbers at room temperature without any sort of cooling.
The Zebralights I'm concidering are:
- H604d 18650 XHP50.2 Flood 5000K High CRI Headlamp.
- H600Fd Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 5000K High CRI Headlamp
I would prefer a the mark IV in a "Flood" instead of "Floody" version but they don't seem to exist. The only reason I want mark IV instead of mark III because I think they are better, like more efficient. But that's just guesswork because I don't haven't read the slightest bit of proof for that claim. The only thing I've read is that the mark IV has a more scratch resitant lesns.

All info why pick one brand over the other is welcome.
 
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dmsoule

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

I'm going to buy a headlamp and have a very hard time deciding between Zebralight of an Olight H2R Nova.
I like very floody without a hotspot. I have no need for a lot of throw. Mostly for close range. For me far starts at 20 yards :)
I like lights that use 18650.

Zebralight looks great from what I can find but have two things that hold me back from buying one.
A] Somewhere I've read that the Olight has lumen/watt so is more efficient. And that means longer runtimes and potentially less stepdown due to heat problems. Can anyone shed some light on that?
B] Related to the previous question is that I can't find no tests showing runtimes in what Zebralight calls PID regulated modes.
A bunch of fancy graphs would be great, but I also would be very happy with the following numbers.
Lumen and duration before stepdown. Lumen and duration after stepdown.
The same question for all PID modes.
I only need those numbers at room temperature without any sort of cooling.
The Zebralights I'm concidering are:
- H604d 18650 XHP50.2 Flood 5000K High CRI Headlamp.
- H600Fd Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 5000K High CRI Headlamp
I would prefer a the mark IV in a "Flood" instead of "Floody" version but they don't seem to exist. The only reason I want mark IV instead of mark III because I think they are better, like more efficient. But that's just guesswork because I don't haven't read the slightest bit of proof for that claim. The only thing I've read is that the mark IV has a more scratch resitant lesns.

All info why pick one brand over the other is welcome.

Just a few points.
  • The h604d is a mk iv model, they just put the 4/iv in a different place in the name. Same driver as the h600Fd.
  • Those lumen/watt comparisons were judging the then-new Olight with, an older (and high-cri) Zebralight. The new xhp 50.2 models are undoubtedly the most efficient lights on the market, but you'll have to wait for someone to do the extensive testing.
  • There is no timed stepdown on the Zebralights, which is why you won't see PID runtimes. The light will run as bright as possible, given environmental conditions, for as long as possible.

I'd go with Zebralight without question.
 

Tachead

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

Olight makes some pretty nice lights but, ZL is in a whole other league. I would definitely go for a Zebralight. I recommend the H600Fc or Fd(either MKIII or MKIV).
 

Lumenize

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

Just a few points.
  • The h604d is a mk iv model, they just put the 4/iv in a different place in the name. Same driver as the h600Fd.
  • Those lumen/watt comparisons were judging the then-new Olight with, an older (and high-cri) Zebralight. The new xhp 50.2 models are undoubtedly the most efficient lights on the market, but you'll have to wait for someone to do the extensive testing.
  • There is no timed stepdown on the Zebralights, which is why you won't see PID runtimes. The light will run as bright as possible, given environmental conditions, for as long as possible.

I'd go with Zebralight without question.

So h604d is just a different way of writing h600d mark IV? Learned another thing.....

The review I was refering too: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...H2R-review-(Headlamp-right-angle-18650-XHP50)
"Output efficiency in lm/W on high (Sanyo NCR18650GA)"

From that I understand the ZL has only half the efficiency of the Olight. Is that difference (almost) totally gone with the mark 3 light. That would a very welcome, and incredible, step forward between the two versions!


Tachead
Olight makes some pretty nice lights but, ZL is in a whole other league. I would definitely go for a Zebralight. I recommend the H600Fc or Fd(either MKIII or MKIV).
Last question, for now... :)
- H604d 18650 XHP50.2 Flood 5000K High CRI Headlamp.
- H600Fd Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 5000K High CRI HeadlampWhy you recommend H600Fc or H600Fd? It's not that I don't trust your advise, I want to learn why because frankly speaking I don't understand all the small differences between the lights in the ZL collection. For example the H600Fd is on my list because I assume a frosted lens gives a more even/spotless beam. That was why only frosted lenses where on my list. But yesterday I saw a beamshot of the H60x and that was simply incredible smooth. So that beamshot seems to debunk my frosted=smooth claim/understanding.

So I you or anyone else wants give me a crashcourse on the key differences of all those ZL light I would be... enlighted :)
 

1000cri

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

I'd wouldn't worry too much about the difference in efficiency, make your decision based on the runtime on the modes you'll be using the most. The Olight runs at 650 lumens for 2.5 hours, and 150 lumens for 10 hours. The Zebralight should have a mode between those. The Zebralight will have 12 brightness levels to choose from and mutliple programmable mode groups, I think even if the efficiency is less you're less likely to waste energy because you can use just the amount of light you need. The Mk IV models don't have runtimes posted, but I would guess they're similar to the mkIII models but slightly higher output, at least for the non-PID levels. The Zebralights will have much better color rendering.

The floody models are 90 degree beam spread vs 120 degree on the flood models. The floody willl be more versatile, but the flood would be better if you're only planning to use the light for up close work and not trail walking or running. The beam will be even and smooth on each, but the floody will still have somewhat of a hotspot, although very wide.

The difference between the "c" and "d" models is color temperature. I prefer the 4000K of the "c" model because I use mine outdoors a lot and it looks more natural and has more contrast walking through the woods with lots of green and brown things to illuminate. I would get the 5000K "d" model if I was mostly planning to use the light indoors or in the city. They're both usually considered in the neutral white range, with 4000K on the edge of warm and 5000K on the edge of cool.
 

dmsoule

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

If you want a smooth, even, spotless beam, the 604 is where it's at. I have an h602w and love it, and am awaiting my preorder of the h604c.

The description of 120 degree vs 90 degree spread gives a misleading impression of the difference. The h600F models have a frosted lens in front of a standard reflector. So you still get a bright center and dimmer spill. When you move the beam around, you'll notice the moving, though diffuse, hotspot. My h602w casts a perfectly even spread of light, similar to a halogen work lamp, because it has no reflector at all.
 

Lumenize

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

Yeah I was wondering why the 90 degree angle version has a frosted lens and the 120 degree version doesn't.
Is my understanding right that 90 needs a frosted lens to largely 'hide' the hotspot, but because a 120 degree beam has no hotspot to begin with, it also doesn't need a frosted lens.

I'm still not there, but I'm kind of relieved, that today I was able to narrow down my list from 4 to 2 choices.
4000K frosted or unfrosted.

H604c 18650 XHP50.2 Flood 4000K High CRI Headlamp <-- This is also mark IV, right?
H600Fc Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 4000K High CRI Headlamp

@dmsoule, what is the throw of your h602w?

@1000cri. I'm not really worried about a few percent difference in efficiency. I just want to avoid significant differences. But it's no issue anyway because my two final candidates are both mark IV.

Both thanks for the helpful answers.
 

Tachead

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

So h604d is just a different way of writing h600d mark IV? Learned another thing.....

The review I was refering too: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...H2R-review-(Headlamp-right-angle-18650-XHP50)
"Output efficiency in lm/W on high (Sanyo NCR18650GA)"

From that I understand the ZL has only half the efficiency of the Olight. Is that difference (almost) totally gone with the mark 3 light. That would a very welcome, and incredible, step forward between the two versions!



Last question, for now... :)
- H604d 18650 XHP50.2 Flood 5000K High CRI Headlamp.
- H600Fd Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 5000K High CRI HeadlampWhy you recommend H600Fc or H600Fd? It's not that I don't trust your advise, I want to learn why because frankly speaking I don't understand all the small differences between the lights in the ZL collection. For example the H600Fd is on my list because I assume a frosted lens gives a more even/spotless beam. That was why only frosted lenses where on my list. But yesterday I saw a beamshot of the H60x and that was simply incredible smooth. So that beamshot seems to debunk my frosted=smooth claim/understanding.

So I you or anyone else wants give me a crashcourse on the key differences of all those ZL light I would be... enlighted :)
That review is comparing a headlamp with a brand new generation low CRI emitter(Olight) to a headlamp with a much older generation high CRI emitter(Zebralight). That is not even close to a fair comparison because newer generation emitters are generally more efficient. Lower CRI emitters are also more efficient. This gives a huge advantage to the Olight. Zebralight is known to have the most advanced drivers in the industry so, you don't need to worry about not getting enough runtime or efficiency with them.

Efficiency is also not the only thing to consider. The quality of light is also important. The ZL in that review has a far superior tint and a much higher CRI making it much nicer to use.

As for the difference between the H600F series and H602/3/4 series...

The H600F Series uses an OP reflector and frosted lens combo to produce a nicely diffused beam that is bright in the center and smoothly transitions into spill. It has no defined edge and just transitions smoothly into darkness. It is great for close to medium range tasks but also maintains some punch for longer range use. It is the best all around beam profile that Zebralight offers imo.

The H60* series is a mule and uses no reflector(just a glow in the dark cone). It produces a very even beam that is great for close up tasks but, has very little range/throw. It is kind of like being in a bubble of even light. It has a very sharp edge that drops instantly into darkness causing kind of a tunnel vision feeling. It is more of a niche light and is the least versatile beam profile that ZL offers imo.

The "c&d" models are ZL's high CRI offerings. The "c" is 4000K and the "d" is 5000K. These models offer slightly lower efficiency and output but, use tighter binned emitters that generally offer much better tint and superior colour rendition.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
 
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Lumenize

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

As for the difference between the H600F series and H602/3/4 series...

The H600F Series uses an OP reflector and frosted lens combo to produce a nicely diffused beam that is bright in the center and smoothly transitions into spill. It has no defined edge and just transitions smoothly into darkness. It is great for close to medium range tasks but also maintains some punch for longer range use. It is the best all around beam profile that Zebralight offers imo.

The H60* series is a mule and uses no reflector(just a glow in the dark cone). It produces a very even beam that is great for close up tasks but, has very little range/throw. It is kind of like being in a bubble of even light. It has a very sharp edge that drops instantly into darkness causing kind of a tunnel vision feeling. It is more of a niche light and is the least versatile beam profile that ZL offers imo.
There are two reasosn I'm after an even beam. The first and not so important reason is that I think an even beam looks better.
The more important reason is reading. Not books, but for example serial numbers on car enigines and machinery. Some faded text somewhere in a basement. My current flashlight at a lower setting is to dim, and at a higher setting the 6000k hotspot washes out all color/contrast. Add to that reflection and it' s very hard to impossible to read.

But reading your explaination I had this thought. 90 degrees is likely wider than my field of vision. If the hotspot is above 60, then the whole text likely falls in that hotspot. If the print is large then reading is always fine. If the print is small I have to get closer and can't read a feet of text without moving my head anyway. So my point is that I think I need 120 but in reality 90 is good enough for my tasks. Seeing a hotspot during a walk in the forest is of little concern to me. While I plan carrying a handheld flashlight for long range light, extra throw with the headlamp is a real bonus.

So... if my assumions about the reading and hotspot angle are correct I think I made my choice :)




The "c&d" models are ZL's high CRI offerings. The "c" is 4000K and the "d" is 5000K. These models offer slightly lower efficiency and output but, use tighter binned emitters that generally offer much better tint and superior colour rendition.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
It most certainly helps. Right now I've decided on 4000K but that's by no means a firm choice. I saw pictures of 4000K and 5000K beams. But they both are mark III, and a picture hardly ever shows the the perfect color as in real life. But from what I saw the 4000K gives a little more contrast. Not sure that's still so with mark IV. Obviously the difference still exists but I've seen mk II and mk III beamshots of the same temp and they were different. So my point is that the difference I see in those pictures is possibly misleading. Plus with higher cri and modern leds that contrast issue possible got less.
 
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Tachead

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

There are two reasosn I'm after an even beam. The first and not so important reason is that I think an even beam looks better.
The more important reason is reading. Not books, but for example serial numbers on car enigines and machinery. Some faded text somewhere in a basement. My current flashlight at a lower setting is to dim, and at a higher setting the 6000k hotspot washes out all color/contrast. Add to that reflection and it' s very hard to impossible to read.

But reading your explaination I had this thought. 90 degrees is likely wider than my field of vision. If the hotspot is above 60, then the whole text likely falls in that hotspot. If the print is large then reading is always fine. If the print is small I have to get closer and can't read a feet of text without moving my head anyway. So my point is that I think I need 120 but in reality 90 is good enough for my tasks. Seeing a hotspot during a walk in the forest is of little concern to me. While I plan carrying a handheld flashlight for long range light, extra throw with the headlamp is a real bonus.

So... if my assumions about the reading and hotspot angle are correct I think I made my choice :)




It most certainly helps. Right now I've decided on 4000K but that's by no means a firm choice. I saw pictures of 4000K and 5000K beams. But they both are mark III, and a picture hardly ever shows the the perfect color as in real life. But from what I saw the 4000K gives a little more contrast. Not sure that's still so with mark IV. Obviously the difference still exists but I've seem mk II and mk III beamshots of the same temp and they were different. So my point is that the difference I see in those pictures is possibly misleading.

Both beam profiles work well for reading and neither has a defined hotspot but, if all you are going to do with your headlamp is reading the H60* is the better of the two and offers the most even beam. The problem is, the H60* is not ideal for may other uses. It is only really good for close up tasks, medium range at best. When you look into the distance it has a dark spot in the middle due to the lack of throw. Honestly, if you want a headlamp that is good for reading but, also good for many other uses I would go with one of the H600F models. I have used all three beam profiles extensively and the F models are by far my go to all around headlamps. I still own one of the mule models(H502c L2) but, I pretty much only use it for reading in bed.

Here is picture I took yesterday for another forum member. This is a comparison of the H600Fc MKIII and H600Fd MKIII against a white ceiling. This picture(differing monitor settings aside) is very accurate and very close to what I see in real life.

H600Fd MKIII on the left and H600Fc MKIII on the right...

https://i.imgur.com/NusG6GD.jpg
 
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Lumenize

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

For me both look smooth. The one on the right is A+ the one on the left is A. So that issue is solved. I go for the one on the left because it's more multi purpose.
BTW, I do more than reading, but I emphasized on that because that's most problematic. Just walking around works with most flashlights.

Are the tints in that picture 5000K and 4000K? The difference is 'extreme' on a white ceiling but I think it's far less in every day use.
I'm just a newbie that's like more lumen and more Ks!
I really know it's not that simple, I personally saw colors being washed out by 6500k lights, but still "more K = better" voice is in my head... :)
 

wormyian

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

For me both look smooth. The one on the right is A+ the one on the left is A. So that issue is solved. I go for the one on the left because it's more multi purpose.
BTW, I do more than reading, but I emphasized on that because that's most problematic. Just walking around works with most flashlights.

Are the tints in that picture 5000K and 4000K? The difference is 'extreme' on a white ceiling but I think it's far less in every day use.
I'm just a newbie that's like more lumen and more Ks!
I really know it's not that simple, I personally saw colors being washed out by 6500k lights, but still "more K = better" voice is in my head... :)


i work on the beach twice a day as a bait collecter winter mostly in the dark i have used a lot of zebralights and now i have an olight and the colours are vivid with the olight so i can see great in the dark it is my favourite light i also like the acebeam h10 but it is now lost in my house somewhere :(
 

Tachead

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

For me both look smooth. The one on the right is A+ the one on the left is A. So that issue is solved. I go for the one on the left because it's more multi purpose.
BTW, I do more than reading, but I emphasized on that because that's most problematic. Just walking around works with most flashlights.

Are the tints in that picture 5000K and 4000K? The difference is 'extreme' on a white ceiling but I think it's far less in every day use.
I'm just a newbie that's like more lumen and more Ks!
I really know it's not that simple, I personally saw colors being washed out by 6500k lights, but still "more K = better" voice is in my head... :)

Yes, they are 5000K and 4000K nominal. Keep in mind they can vary a bit between samples. Also, remember your eyes/brain auto white balance so I find it is best to choose a CCT that best matches the ambient lighting you will be using it in.
 

Tachead

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

i work on the beach twice a day as a bait collecter winter mostly in the dark i have used a lot of zebralights and now i have an olight and the colours are vivid with the olight so i can see great in the dark it is my favourite light i also like the acebeam h10 but it is now lost in my house somewhere :(

Olight only uses low CRI emitters in their headlamps(around 70CRI). The new ZL's use 93-95 CRI emitters so the colours will be considerably more "vivid" with them.

Olight and Acebeam make descent lights but, Zebralight's are a lot higher quality then them. They have much more advanced programmable drivers, their bodies are made of stronger US made aluminum, they have tougher anodizing, have potted electronics, use advanced thermal regulation instead of a timed step-down, and use Gorilla Glass lenses vs. bare acrylic optics(Olight) which scratch easily. They also have better customer service from my experience.
 
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eh4

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

The Floody (Fc & Fd) have a light profile that is like an ellipse, like the pointy end of an egg, it's a great compromise between the greater throw of the clear lens spot&spill version and the pure flood.
Peripheral vision seems to be able to work with less light, while central focal vision seems to need considerably more light for detailed vision... the floody versions do a really good job of supplying that much more intense central cone of light without a distracting hot spot, instead feathering off to a dimmer periphery.
With the pure flood I forget I'm wearing it while working, but looking up and away I always notice a disconcerting dimness wherever I'm looking, with adequate peripheral illumination.
With the floody, the balance of concentrated light with the smooth feathering to dimmer periphery always gives me a sense of balanced vision, switching to higher or lower levels as needed.

Floody is a really good compromise, especially if you carry a hand held light for longer range throw.
If you only had one light, the clear lens spot&spill basic version is arguably the most useful, but I don't use mine anymore, the floody gets daily use and is carried anytime I've got pants, with a pocket clip.
The pure flood is the only one that never leaves the headband, it stays in a tool bag and is only used for working at 2 to 20-30 feet.
 
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Lumenize

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Re: Olight vs Zebra light - Help need to make my choice

Now I made my headlight choice it's time for some brand sparkling new cells.

How many amps does the light draw on high? "H600Fc Mk IV 18650 XHP50.2 Floody 4000K High CRI Headlamp"


Few basic questions about cells:
Obviously the cell should be able to deliver the amps; but what's the next important thing to consider?
For example if I compare a Sanyo and Samsung cell, the Samsung has slightly more mAh, but the Sanyo has a slighly higher voltage. I guess both have their advantages. Both have nearly the same Wh.

I think the ideal might depend on how exactly the light regulates.
If it regulates on constant Watt output I see no difference between the cells.
If it regulates on fixed amps then the Sanyo might be better because it's voltage curve is slightly better than that of Samsung.
 
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