Tools every new moder should own?

DavidRZ

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Mar 5, 2018
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I would like to mod a few lights. Starting with some basics, replace a few LED's to switching out some drivers.

What tools do you consider mandatory and what would be some nice to haves? Please include brands of the certain tools, or at least some specifics so me and others can use this thread as a reference.

I'm not looking to move to a lathe anytime soon, so please no recommendations there:huh:
 

sandalian

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Basic tools you will going to use are soldering iron and its accessories, helping hands, heat gun (any kind of it, usually used for dedoom and LED reflow).
 

louie

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For sure, a good soldering iron is a must, but needn't be super expensive. It should have temperature control, ESD (electrostatic discharge) safe, and various tips from small to medium (relatively). I see examples that look OK for $40-50USD, but can't confirm. Some Kester or Multicore electronics solder, 63/37 rosin core, small diameter. For reflow, you may want solder paste.

Hand tools:
Fine flush wire cutters and insulation strippers. Hakko CHP-170 flush cutters work well and only $5. I use Ideal wire strippers, red handle T-Stripper for small sizes, maybe $10.

Small needle nose pliers. Several tweezers for handling LEDs and MCPCBs. I like angled stainless, but also have teeny straight ones (Hakko 3-SA, $10).

Screwdrivers, like a jeweler's set. Anything from manufacturers like Wiha are worthwhile. The Wiha chip lifter tool is one of my favorites - as a prybar!

I reflow using an old travel iron (for clothes!) set upside down in a Panavise. Even has temperature control!

A soft-jaw vise and/or helping hands jig to hold things. I also use little pieces of rubber or neoprene pads in the jaws.

A modest DMM (digital multi meter) for checking voltages and testing LEDs. Best if the diode check mode can light up an LED, not all do AFAIK.

Depending on your eyes, consider some loupes or magnifiers; good lighting, a fan to blow soldering smoke away. I like plastic trays with sections to store disassembled parts and keep things from rolling away.

I use a heat gun to break down Loctite (it softens at something like 400F). However, this is problematic on many lights as there may be major parts inside made of soft plastic. Also, some lights use glues other than Loctite type. Note, if you reassemble lights, Loctite and clones don't set inside aluminum or anodized aluminum. You can get it to set using a special activator. Or use another glue.

Of course, you may need regular hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches), a soft tubing vise jaws, rubber strap wrenches, depending on what you have to take apart.
 

DrafterDan

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One of the best tools is a small flat-blade screwdriver with a notch filed into the end. It's used for holding a wire in place so you can solder it down. I believe I got the idea from Dan at Overready. One of those things that are simple, but highly effective.

The second tool I'd consider a big help is a Knipex snap-ring plier. These are for removing/installing pills/ McClicky switches, things like that. When you need more beef than a pair of stainless tweezers.

Files, get a good 6" Nickelson file, fine cut, and you'll be set
 

DavidRZ

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Mar 5, 2018
Messages
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One of the best tools is a small flat-blade screwdriver with a notch filed into the end. It's used for holding a wire in place so you can solder it down. I believe I got the idea from Dan at Overready. One of those things that are simple, but highly effective.

The second tool I'd consider a big help is a Knipex snap-ring plier. These are for removing/installing pills/ McClicky switches, things like that. When you need more beef than a pair of stainless tweezers.

Files, get a good 6" Nickelson file, fine cut, and you'll be set
Which size Knipex? Was going to buy some, but didn't want to get the wrong size.

Thanks for the flathead idea, makes sense.
 

DavidRZ

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Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
100
For sure, a good soldering iron is a must, but needn't be super expensive. It should have temperature control, ESD (electrostatic discharge) safe, and various tips from small to medium (relatively). I see examples that look OK for $40-50USD, but can't confirm. Some Kester or Multicore electronics solder, 63/37 rosin core, small diameter. For reflow, you may want solder paste.

Hand tools:
Fine flush wire cutters and insulation strippers. Hakko CHP-170 flush cutters work well and only $5. I use Ideal wire strippers, red handle T-Stripper for small sizes, maybe $10.

Small needle nose pliers. Several tweezers for handling LEDs and MCPCBs. I like angled stainless, but also have teeny straight ones (Hakko 3-SA, $10).

Screwdrivers, like a jeweler's set. Anything from manufacturers like Wiha are worthwhile. The Wiha chip lifter tool is one of my favorites - as a prybar!

I reflow using an old travel iron (for clothes!) set upside down in a Panavise. Even has temperature control!

A soft-jaw vise and/or helping hands jig to hold things. I also use little pieces of rubber or neoprene pads in the jaws.

A modest DMM (digital multi meter) for checking voltages and testing LEDs. Best if the diode check mode can light up an LED, not all do AFAIK.

Depending on your eyes, consider some loupes or magnifiers; good lighting, a fan to blow soldering smoke away. I like plastic trays with sections to store disassembled parts and keep things from rolling away.

I use a heat gun to break down Loctite (it softens at something like 400F). However, this is problematic on many lights as there may be major parts inside made of soft plastic. Also, some lights use glues other than Loctite type. Note, if you reassemble lights, Loctite and clones don't set inside aluminum or anodized aluminum. You can get it to set using a special activator. Or use another glue.

Of course, you may need regular hand tools (screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches), a soft tubing vise jaws, rubber strap wrenches, depending on what you have to take apart.

What a great list! Thanks for taking the time to detail all of this.

I have several of these items, saving for a nice solder iron. Thinking a Weller WES51 as it gets solid reviews and is often recommended around the net. I need to build a nice table to work at before getting a vise, but hopefully those will come soon enough.
 

DrafterDan

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I'm not sure what part number they are, but the business end has probably 1/16" diameter nose. They were in the background when I was modifying a Reylight over the weekend.

7tWBK9.jpg
 

DavidRZ

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Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
100
For sure, a good soldering iron is a must, but needn't be super expensive. It should have temperature control, ESD (electrostatic discharge) safe, and various tips from small to medium (relatively). I see examples that look OK for $40-50USD, but can't confirm. Some Kester or Multicore electronics solder, 63/37 rosin core, small diameter. For reflow, you may want solder paste.

What do you think about this iron?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Seems to have gotten pretty good reviews from a few sites. The prices seems reasonable.
 

louie

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Aug 31, 2002
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Seattle
What do you think about this iron?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DGZFSNE/?tag=cpf0b6-20

Seems to have gotten pretty good reviews from a few sites. The prices seems reasonable.

I don't know without having tried it. If it seems to have the general features you seek now, it'll probably satisfy you until you use it and see if you need something else.

So many things are hard to quantify in specs. Is the build and materials good? Is the heat capacity enough for your jobs, fast enough, accurate enough? Do the tips last, can you get the sizes you want? Is it repairable if it breaks?

$50 isn't much for a soldering station, and expectations from most hobbyists won't be too high, so you are probably fine going with net reviews (as poor as those can be).
 

DavidRZ

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Joined
Mar 5, 2018
Messages
100
I don't know without having tried it. If it seems to have the general features you seek now, it'll probably satisfy you until you use it and see if you need something else.

So many things are hard to quantify in specs. Is the build and materials good? Is the heat capacity enough for your jobs, fast enough, accurate enough? Do the tips last, can you get the sizes you want? Is it repairable if it breaks?

$50 isn't much for a soldering station, and expectations from most hobbyists won't be too high, so you are probably fine going with net reviews (as poor as those can be).

All good things to keep in mind, thanks louie. I guess I was hoping somebody else had this model, or had used this brand before. I went ahead and picked it up, if I can make a few lights and solder a few things around the house with it I'll be happy enough. I'll get something else if it doesn't work out for me.
 

datiLED

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May 9, 2006
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Atlanta, GA
You can't go wrong with one of these soldering stations.

https://www.circuitspecialists.com/60_Watt_Soldering_Station.html
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/csi-2901-lead-free-soldering-station.html

I have been using some version of the CSI 60 watt station for about 15 years. I replace the wand after about 2 years, and get a new station about every 5 years. It is based on the Hakko 936, and performs very well. I buy genuine Hakko tips for best performance, though.

The other item that I use every time that I solder is the GRS double third hand (with long arms).

https://www.grs.com/product/004-570...double-standard-third-hand-soldering-station/

It is expensive, but worth every penny. I got mine many years ago for less than $100, and have used it almost as much as my soldering iron. It is definitely a lifetime tool. Buy it once, use it forever.

Tweezers! Buy a bunch of good fine tip stainless steel tweezers in both straight and curved tips. You can find lots of 5 or 10 on e-Bay for less than $1 each. A pair of anti-static tweezers is a good idea, too.
 
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