REVIEW: Nitecore MT22C Flashlight

Bdm82

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The Nitecore MT22C is one of three new releases from Nitecore featuring a rotary switch that offers infinitely variable brightness. The MT22C uses a single 18650 (or two RCR123s or CR123As) to deliver 1000 lumens and nearly 200 meters of throw.
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Here are the key specifications as tested:
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Skip to the commentary section at bottom to read more subjective notes on the MH23.


Disclaimer: This light was provided at no cost by Nitecore Store, shipping from their location in Texas. Nitecore Store is an authorized Nitecore distributor for the U.S.A. Retail price at the time of this review was $49.95.



Unboxing

The MT22C arrived in the traditional black and yellow Nitecore retail box.
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Specifications on one side:
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Intended use scenarios featured on the other:
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And a rundown of other details on the rear:
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Inside the box, a plastic tray holds the MT22C, pocket clip, holster, lanyard, warranty card, spare gaskets, spare o-rings, spare charge port cover, and manual.
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The manual is in 10 languages (English, Spanish, German, French, Russian, Japanese, Chinese, Italian, Romanian, and Korean); each language's section is complete as the text is quite small.

It is online here:

Nitecore backs the MT22C with a 5-year warranty.




Design

At a quick glance, the MT22C looks like many other lights that have 1" barrels. But on closer look, the MT22C can be distinguished by the cigar ring and satin-colored rotary switch.
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Nitecore lists the length at 135 mm, head width at 25.4 mm, body width at 25.4 mm, and weight at 92 g. My measurements confirmed the weight exactly and the other specs to the nearest 0.1 mm.

For a size comparison, here is the MH23 with other flashlights (and the batteries they use).
L to R: Nitecore NL1834 18650 battery, Olight R50 Pro (26650), Convoy S2+ (18650), Nitecore MT22C (18650), Klarus XT2CR, Manker E11 (AA/14500), Fenix E15 (CR123A).
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Starting at the front, the head has a mildly crenulated black bezel and shallow, smooth reflector. The reflector was nice and free of any imperfections with only faint machining marks. The bezel is not removable by hand.
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The lens has a nice anti-reflective coating that is minimally purple. The XP-L HD V6 LED is well-centered thanks to the centering disc.
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On the head is a HOT warning – aligned directly above the rotary side switch. The switch has raised notches and sticks out slightly from the barrel to aid grip. Tactical and thin gloves will be fine; those wearing thick leather or winter gloves may find adjusting the brightness to be a challenge.

Turning the switch fully counterclockwise activates Strobe; fully clockwise reaches moonlight. This is different from most dials where clockwise increases volume or brightness. There is a click felt when rotating the dial from Turbo to Strobe – but in testing I found Strobe would actually activate just before the click was felt.

In line with the switch are some shallow cooling fins. Below the switch is hexagonal section that helps keep the MT22C from spinning in hand and provides some rolling resistance when the light is placed on a flat surface.
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The short body tube has a fine diamond-pattern knurling. A flat spot on one side of the battery tube features the model number and Nitecore branding and web address. The text is clean and legible though edges are not the crispest. (The other side, not shown, has registration and disposal information).
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The tail has the same knurling on the side. The tail switch (which turns the MT22C on/off) is a forward-clicky style – meaning momentary on can be achieved with a half-press. The switch boot has a Nitecore N, and a spare switch boot is included in the package should the original get damaged.
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The cigar ring screws onto the battery tube with threads – it is not merely held down by the tail cap. While this does keep it from rotating while in hand, it also means that the threads will be exposed, open to the elements and to collect dust if the cigar ring is removed.
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The head, battery tube (body), and tail sections separated:
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The threads and o-rings on both head- and tail-ends are well-lubricated – typical of Nitecore but always good to see. Oddly, the head-end threads are square-cut while the tail-end threads are triangularly-cut. This is a questionable design decision since square threads are more resistant to cross-threading and would have been the logical choice for the tail where most users will access the battery. Unscrewing either the head or tail slightly will mechanically lock out the light since the threads are anodized.
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The positive battery post inside the head has reverse polarity protection. Button top batteries are required; flat top cells will not work.
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Inside the tail are two (nested) gold-colored springs. This dual-spring design is good for minimizing resistance and maximizing output. They also have enough give to accommodate the longest protected cells I own without issue.
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Accessories

Pocket Clip
The MT22C's pocket clip is designed for head-down carry only when the cigar ring is installed. The top of the clip sits between the indents on the cigar ring.
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If the cigar ring is removed, the clip can be installed head-up.
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Holster
The holster is the same design that is found with many other Nitecore lights. The canvas is thick and strong, a hook-and-loop flap keeps the MH23 secure, and space is ample enough to accommodate both the cigar ring and pocket clip.
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On the back of the holster, a d-ring, belt loop, and hook-and-loop flap on the back provide multiple carry options.
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Lanyard
The lanyard is of good quality with a tight knit and a comfortable neoprene wrist strap. It can be easily attached to either the cigar ring or tail cap; the holes are large enough for easy threading.
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Performance


Beam
The XP-L HD V6 emitter and smooth, shallow reflector produces a hotspot surrounded by a very cloudy corona and wide spill. The crenulated bezel likely contributes to it, but the corona is very messy and artifacts are easy to see indoors.
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Tint & Temperature
The color and CCT are not advertised by Nitecore though results were typical for XP-L V6 lights. I found the hotspot was neutral (about 5400K) and slightly yellow/green. The spill was cool (about 6500K) and had a light blue tint. Overall tint would be described as cool.

To demonstrate the overall color balance, here is the MT22C surrounded by lights with emitters of various tints and temperatures. Camera W/B set to daylight.
L to R: Lumintop Tool Cu (4000K 219B), Nitecore EC23 (XHP35 HD), Nitecore MT22C (XP-L HD V6), Convoy S2+ (6500K XM-L2 U2 1B), Convoy S2+ (4500K XM-L2 T6 4C), BLF348 (5000K 219B),
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Output
Note: Nitecore used a 3500mAh 18650 for the official specifications. Two (2) CR123 or RCR123/16340 cells could also be used. I tested with a Nitecore 3400mAh NL1834 18650. Ambient temperature was 70F +/- 3F.

Turbo is rated for 1000 lumens and 1 hour – and Nitecore states that the 1000 lumens is prior to temperature regulation kicking in. The MT22C has Nitecore's Advanced Temperature Regulation (ATR); ATR adjusts the output based on temperature rather than time.

In testing, I found turn-on output was 1051 lumens. At 30 seconds, output was 1016 lumens – ever so slightly above the rated specification. Under 80mm PC fan cooling, the MT22C had a mostly linear output drop over time. 50% output was reached at 1:17 and 10% (ANSI testing standard) was hit at 2:00 – twice the rated runtime.

In addition to exceeding specifications, the predictable drop and long tail (at under 2 lumens) ensures there are no nasty surprises or surprise shut-offs due to a low battery.


Turbo, first 10 minutes:
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Turbo, longer runtime:
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While specifications are provided only for Turbo and Moonlight, runtime was also tested with output dialed to around 475 lumens. The light was powered on at 471 lumens, output rose to 483 (without intervention) within the first minute, and it held this level consistently for over 2 hours. A linear decline occurred between 2:10 and 3:34 – when 10% was reached. The MT22C eventually powered off at 9:49.
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Ultralow/Moonlight is rated at 0.5 lumens for 300 hours. Output was tested at 0.6 lumens. Runtime was not tested.


Tests were repeated with a custom Samsung 30Q button-top battery to see if the lower resistance battery would produce improved results. Turbo was indeed higher at 1060 lumens; Moonlight was unchanged.

All output levels:
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All runtimes tested:
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Amperage Draw
As measured with a fully-charged Nitecore NL1834:
  • Turbo: 2.7A
  • Ultralow: 5.6mA



Throw
I tested throw distance at 1.46 meters and candela measured 9720 at 30 seconds - equivalent to 196 meters of throw. Nitecore's specifications are 8600 Cd and 185 meters, so like with the Turbo output, the throw slightly exceeded specifications.



PWM
Nitecore advertises the MT22C as constant current – and I found no signs of any PWM during testing.



Parasitic Drain
The tail switch is mechanical, so parasitic drain is non-existent.



Low Voltage Battery Protection
The MT22C powered off when the battery reached between 2.7 and 2.8 V in testing. The cell's internal protection circuit had not been tripped – indicating that unprotected cells should be safe to use with the MT22C.


Impact Resistance
Nitecore rates the MH23's impact resistance at only 1 meter. This was not tested.



Outdoor Beamshots

All photos taken with a Canon SD4000IS camera. 1/4" exposure, ISO800, Daylight white balance, F2.0. Approximate distances: White deck railing @ 15 ft., white fence in distance @ 75 ft, back of dock @110 ft. Partial moonlight.



Control:
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Ultralow:
(Not shown – no variance from control at sample distance)​


Turbo:
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Interface


The MT22C has a very simple interface. The tail switch turns the light on/off. The rotary side switch sets the level – and can be set when the tail switch is on or off.

Moonlight is reached when the switch is rotated clockwise fully. Output increases as the switch is rotated counter/anticlockwise until an indent is felt and Strobe is activated.




Problems

No problems were experienced with the Nitecore MT22C while testing.



Commentary

Infinitely variable output lights are great; they provide the ability to get just the right amount of light and can quickly be adjusted up or down without cycling through unwanted levels. The MT22C provides these features – and exceeds all rated specifications for output and runtime.

It achieves the "tactical" category, having a standard 1-inch barrel, narrow head compatible with many weapons, and a rear forward-clicky switch that allows momentary on. It has an anti-reflective lens, a properly-centered LED, a variety of carry options, and constant current (no PWM).

That said, I do not think the MT22C is the top light in this category (single 18650, variable brightness) – or the best implementation of variable brightness control that Nitecore has achieved. The SRT line has an easier to grip control ring. More importantly, the SRT line also has a more intuitive clockwise rotation to increase brightness.

After using the light for nearly 2 weeks, I still have not adjusted to the "backwards" rotary switch. On stereos, amps, and just about everything else with a dial, clockwise increases output – but not with the MT22C. I'm sure some users will adjust better than I did, but I struggled. It's worth noting that Nitecore has used this rotation pattern on some other MT lights before (like the MT1A and MT40GT), users upgrading from those might find this design more familiar than I did.

Other than that, the fact that Strobe activates as the indent is bumped against (before the rotary switch clicks into the Strobe position) is an unpleasant surprise when going for Turbo. The use of triangle threads at the tail but square-cut threads at the head is curious. For a tactical light, I also would have expected a higher impact resistance rating than 1 meter. Finally, the beam has quite a few artifacts that can be distracting indoors.

The MT22C is certainly not a bad light – especially given the low price relative to most variable brightness lights. But there are a few misses – most notably the orientation of the rotary dial.



Lux Meter: Dr. Meter LX1330B
Integrating "sphere": Homebuilt tube-style device calibrated on other known lights and test results. Numbers should be considered relative to each other and my other review figures but accuracy is in no way certified or guaranteed.

Camera: Canon SD4000IS
Micrometer: Mitutoyo CD-6ASX
Multimeter: Craftsman 82170

 
Last edited:

hiuintahs

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Messages
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Thanks for the review and the detail. I have my eye on the MT22C. I have the MT20C and like that up/dn button. I could do without the red LED on it though. So nice to see that the MT22C doesn't have one. The holster on the MT20C was too small and so hoping that the one for the MT22C fits good.

When you mentioned: "Turning the switch fully counterclockwise activates Strobe; fully clockwise reaches moonlight. This is different from most dials where clockwise increases volume or brightness." ...........I didn't really think about it that way. Another way to look at it which is the way I do all of the potentiometers in my circuits is that screwing clockwise is like screwing a bolt inward or downward. Which I set to lower that which the pot is adjusting. So in that case its intuitive to me. At any rate, its just a matter of getting use to it.

The only other concern that I have about the light is whether the dial is obtrusive or not. I'm kind of on the fence as to whether I'd prefer the dial the way it is or the way the SRT's are.
 

Bdm82

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Thanks for the review and the detail. I have my eye on the MT22C. I have the MT20C and like that up/dn button. I could do without the red LED on it though. So nice to see that the MT22C doesn't have one. The holster on the MT20C was too small and so hoping that the one for the MT22C fits good.

When you mentioned: "Turning the switch fully counterclockwise activates Strobe; fully clockwise reaches moonlight. This is different from most dials where clockwise increases volume or brightness." ...........I didn't really think about it that way. Another way to look at it which is the way I do all of the potentiometers in my circuits is that screwing clockwise is like screwing a bolt inward or downward. Which I set to lower that which the pot is adjusting. So in that case its intuitive to me. At any rate, its just a matter of getting use to it.

The only other concern that I have about the light is whether the dial is obtrusive or not. I'm kind of on the fence as to whether I'd prefer the dial the way it is or the way the SRT's are.


Yeah; no red LED here. I appreciate the alternate perspective as well. With enough use I'm sure I'd adjust; maybe I'm being too harsh about that single point/feature. I started trying to consciously think of it like a water faucet for a garden hose... clockwise shuts off the flow, counterclockwise opens up the flow. As long as I remembered that, I was okay, but I had to always think about it first. I just wonder what engineer one day declared "well, SRT users will use it this way, but our MT users are totally different; let's rotate the other way for them."

After posting this review last night I opened up another variable brightness light (different brand, won in a GAW) that had arrived yesterday; it uses a tail ring for brightness but clockwise increases output on it. It just felt more natural; I didn't have to teach myself to think before adjusting.

If you are comparing the SRT and MT22C's dials, though, I'd tell you this... the MT22C's dial is firmer and holds position better. If there's a chance the dial would get bumped a bit (like on a weapon, etc), the MT will hold the level better. The SRT's dial is easier to bump due to its size and full circumference and it just requires less pressure to move altogether. That said, the SRT's dial does allow more precise adjustments. When testing the SRT9 (review also on CPF), I wanted to test 1000 lumens (50% of rated Turbo) and was able to dial it to as close as 996. When testing the MT22C I was aiming for 500 lumens (50% of Turbo) and could get only as close as 471... it was either about 47x or 53x; I couldn't hit 500 any closer.
 

Beckler

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Apr 29, 2003
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366
Location
Earth
SRT rings are good but not well designed. SRT7 is easiest to use because it protrudes somewhat but then you have to be careful as has been mentioned. In some cases where you need to grip it at odd angle or tightly, it's then not usable because you'll move ring in the process. SRT9 is better because ring is flush - but why? Did they really intend it that way? I believe it's just random because they're not thinking too much about it. This new dial is an attempt to make it easier and 1-handed use better (ring adjust isn't great 1-handed). +CCW direction makes no sense in my opinion. Ideally it would be user reversible.

So anyway one solution would be a ring with strong detents. In fact say it had 10 levels/clicks, that would be enough - you don't actually need infinitely variable (and it's not anyway; it goes in small steps). Any number of other methods possible like a roller-type control for thumb use. This new one seems directly inspired from camera rear control dials and probably makes no sense, but I haven't tried it. :) Anyway ergonomics is something not well done yet.
 
Last edited:

hojobones

Newly Enlightened
Joined
May 22, 2004
Messages
96
Yeah; no red LED here. I appreciate the alternate perspective as well. With enough use I'm sure I'd adjust; maybe I'm being too harsh about that single point/feature. I started trying to consciously think of it like a water faucet for a garden hose... clockwise shuts off the flow, counterclockwise opens up the flow. As long as I remembered that, I was okay, but I had to always think about it first. I just wonder what engineer one day declared "well, SRT users will use it this way, but our MT users are totally different; let's rotate the other way for them."

After posting this review last night I opened up another variable brightness light (different brand, won in a GAW) that had arrived yesterday; it uses a tail ring for brightness but clockwise increases output on it. It just felt more natural; I didn't have to teach myself to think before adjusting.

If you are comparing the SRT and MT22C's dials, though, I'd tell you this... the MT22C's dial is firmer and holds position better. If there's a chance the dial would get bumped a bit (like on a weapon, etc), the MT will hold the level better. The SRT's dial is easier to bump due to its size and full circumference and it just requires less pressure to move altogether. That said, the SRT's dial does allow more precise adjustments. When testing the SRT9 (review also on CPF), I wanted to test 1000 lumens (50% of rated Turbo) and was able to dial it to as close as 996. When testing the MT22C I was aiming for 500 lumens (50% of Turbo) and could get only as close as 471... it was either about 47x or 53x; I couldn't hit 500 any closer.

What was the other variable brightness light you tried out?
 

Bdm82

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It was an Imalent DT21. Honestly, the Nitecore's quality and build seems much better, but the DT21 dial orientation is more comfortable for me.
 
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