Surefire 6PX Defender emitter and driver swap

A while back I had my 6PX Defender bored out to take 18650s. In the process, the machinist also (accidentally) broke the head free of the body tube and then (at my request) opened the bezel for me. I recently reflowed a 219C onto the MCPCB, but I seem to have cooked the driver somehow. I've placed an order fora new 22mm FET driver (guppydrv 2) from Richard at Mountain Electronics, but figured I'd ask for some feedback on other mod options- new glass or switch, perhaps a different emitter?

I'm also not sure if I should stick with the pins once the new driver gets here, or if I should reflow the emitter onto a new MCPCB for a more conventional wire arrangement.

I've played with a couple of P2Xs which have the same design board.
I found the pins to be a weak point. I used an XP-L dedomed (before they did the Hi) in Direct Drive as I couldn't find a board to fit. It's a seriously bright light that gives my Malkoff Hound Dog a run for its money.
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Did you remove the pins, or just solder the driver leads to the pins? I'd like to do something a bit more solid than the quick solder job I did on a Convoy driver that I'm using as proof of concept, once the new driver gets here.

As far as I remember the female pins are aluminium so couldn't solder to them. They actually ripped off the board in the end, due to me separating the boards a few times. I went Direct Drive i.e no driver. So I get maximum output that steadily declines. You can't use high current cels as the cell is all that restricts the current flow to the emitter. Only one Li Ion too.
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Ah. The male pins off of the MCPCB are the ones I was more curious about. I was able to tin them for a temporary connection to a driver, but I don't think that's the best way to connect the emitter to the driver. Plus, I'm not sure that a direct drive is a good idea for the 219C I have in there.

No, you're right. The one I tried lasted a while but it now has half the occluded. still works, but isn't pretty. XM-L2 works best.
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