Boring: to 3123 or not to 3123

night.hoodie

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What is the argument against boring?
 
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parametrek

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I can't think of any reason to bore 2xAA for 3xCR123A. I've never heard of anyone doing it. You lose the ability to use rechargeable batteries and the voltage jumps from 3V to 9V. Old 3xCR123A Surefires are relatively inexpensive. Probably cheaper than boring.
 

archimedes

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The 2xAA SureFire are somewhat uncommon (though not rare) and have tended to hold their value relatively well (in stock form)

There are other (and better) ways to run 9V incandescent, if that is your goal ....
 

night.hoodie

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Thanks guys. I thought that the tube thickness may be as thick as E2e tubes, and 18mm boring is common enough with those, I that thought maybe these tubes could withstand 16mm boring and still remain reasonably bomb-proof, threads not jeopardized. Boring E2e doesn't seem to detract from the resale value, usually adds $50 to the value. But E2e are vastly more common, and different Surefire models have value for sometimes different, often inscrutable, reasons. Sounds like these are better off left as is, are more desirable stock and unmolested. Short of someone making a compelling argument for boring them, the nays have it. I can get to 9V (7.4V) with 2x14500 Li-ion if I want to, but I'm realizing more and more 3V is just right for the most applications.
 

bykfixer

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I thought you meant for 18mm cells.

Heck, a CR123 is pretty close to those 16650's already. Not being familiar with the aa E, I cannot say whether removing about 2mm would be bad.... but, what will you use for a "bulb"?

Anything even available for the E head? (Well a Tads bi-pin and a Streamlight TL3 bulb could work)
 

night.hoodie

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I thought you meant for 18mm cells.

Heck, a CR123 is pretty close to those 16650's already. Not being familiar with the aa E, I cannot say whether removing about 2mm would be bad.... but, what will you use for a "bulb"?

Anything even available for the E head? (Well a Tads bi-pin and a Streamlight TL3 bulb could work)

Tad Customs A7212 is right for 3xCR123A. I had not thought of 3x16340, what is that... 12V? Maybe a FiveMega Axial? Supposedly this fits the Executive reflector hole, fits FiveMega sockets, and possibly Tad's, but I imagine will require the Elite head undergo some clever mod I think McGizmo came up with, adding room between the reflector and the lens (and bezel proper) by another o-ring -length by removing the bezel and adding an extra o-ring, which gives more room for the pointed lamp.

I was considering FiveMega's 2x18500 for 3x18350 using the Axial lamp (11V2A), but I think his 2x18350 w/ FM1794 is more compact, will be about as bright with less runtime.
 
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Timothybil

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If what you want is just a 3 CR123 or two 16500/18500 light, then Lumens Factory is selling their Seraph 9 body alone for $18.50. They offer four different output incan drop ins for $16 or less as well, or you can buy it as a complete light with 220 lumen output for $27. And if sometime down the road you want to check out an LED, the Seraph takes the standard D26 (official name for what is commonly called P60) drop ins.
 

night.hoodie

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If what you want is just a 3 CR123 or two 16500/18500 light, then Lumens Factory is selling their Seraph 9 body alone for $18.50. They offer four different output incan drop ins for $16 or less as well, or you can buy it as a complete light with 220 lumen output for $27. And if sometime down the road you want to check out an LED, the Seraph takes the standard D26 (official name for what is commonly called P60) drop ins.

I notice the low prices on Seraph before, and knew Seraph was Surefire compatible, but always assumed it was thread-compatible with P/C Series rather than E Series. Considering the prices all other possible E Series 2xAA options, this is an incredible bargain, and it fits 3xCR123A and 2x18500 to boot! Thanks for the tip!

Edit: just checked LF's SF-9 product page:

Lumens Factory said:
Fully compatible with all Surefire P/Z/G/C Series accessories and modules.
The tailcap compatible with McClicky Z41 upgrade kits

Obviously, I misunderstood your intent, or it was seeing what I wanted to see. Nope. I might opt for the complete light as my first P60 (rather, P90), but Elite heads should not thread to that host.
 
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night.hoodie

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A few new questions I hoped someone could answer for me...

There is possibly up to 1mm or 1.5mm play... will the E2E2AA hold 4xCR2?
If CR2 are 15mm x 27mm, then there should be 8mm too much battery vertically... that sounds like a lot of crush... but could this still safely fit? If not 3x w/ spacer could work... if CR2 fit the tube.

Anyone know if the Malkoff MDC 1AA (very tight especially vertically on 1AA) hold 2xCR2?

Titanium Innovations CR2 for $1.20 in bulk make me very curious, even with 750Ah capacity. 1/2AA Lithium Thionyl Chloride cells are very expensive, and I doubt they can take high amps and still achieve their high capacity. There are ICR14250 and there seem to exist IMR14250, but the capacity is terrible, 300mAh. 15250 cells have way more capacity.

If CR2 generally fit into AA tubes... with adapter(s) and a turbo head... could make E2LAA into a shorter running M4.

Is it possible or practical mod a 12V P lamp assembly (or any P60 lamp assembly) to fit a VME? What about VME dimensions makes it incompatible with standard P60 dropins?


I am curious about 3 and 4 cell E Series and other 3 or 4 cell lights.
Correct me if I am wrong, but the brightest possible incan E only requires 2 IMR cells, and Keeppower 18350 cells have decent capacity, 1200mAh.

If that is true, if not more lumens, what do I get from an incan 9V 3 cell light, other than 1600mAh, i.e. a little more capacity? More common lamps? What do I get with a 12V 4 cell light, or 12V 3 secondary cell light, if not more lumens than FiveMega's 1000lm E?

Thanks.
 
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