Anyone ever have this problem???

I have a 4sevens Quark mini 123, the kind of light without a button where you have to tighten the bezel to turn it on and loosen it to shut it off. The thing is I have to completely remove the bezel to tirn it off now...it wasn't like that before....
Even if I unscrew completely off and screw it back 1/8th of a turn it flashes on and off like a really slow strobe light. I mean, it's better that it stays on all the time than never, but it's kind of a hassle to always have to take the battery out and put it back in when you want to use it...
I'm hoping someone knows an easy fix for this...anyone?

The driver might be backing out, you should be able to tighten it with some tweezers or snap ring pliers. What kind of battey are you using? If i use protected 16340s in the minis they dont turn off until i loosen the bezel almost all the way off like you described

Also get some DeOxit Gold and brush it on all the electrical contacts in the driver and battery compartment.

Has the anodising on the threads worn off? The lack of insulation would allow current to pass wherever the head was. Try some plumber's PTFE tape to insulate the threads.
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peter yetman said:

Has the anodising on the threads worn off? The lack of insulation would allow current to pass wherever the head was. Try some plumber's PTFE tape to insulate the threads.
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Click to expand...

That did it!
Thanks!!
What a downside to getting an anodized light that functions like this... I have an older black Liteflux that operates in the same way and it still functions perfectly. Lesson learnt...

Thanks everyone!

Never liked the whole anno isolation technique that's so popular. I find it interesting when you start looking into how things work and how fragile or half assed some setups reveal themselves to be

4sevens anodizing was never great, although it was okay. But on threads, I can understand how it would wear away if not kept well-lubricated. Even when properly lubed, it's easy enough to get a bit of grit on the threads and that can really wear on the ano.

I've had problems with other 4sevens twisties, although it is unrelated. I prefer the Quarks with switches.

The 47 Minis do not rely on thread anodizing to break electrical contact (I have Ti and SS versions with no thread anodizing at all) - like most twisties the neg/ground connection is the tube edge to a copper/brass ring circling the circuit board in the head. If the OPs light still lights up after a half turn unscrew, then that copper/brass ring circling the circuit board is no longer properly insulated from the threads - either a metal burr is making contact, or the circuit board is loose and/or has shifted.

Now that sound like a better answer.
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