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Not a fan of Olight RCR123s.

N8N

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I have exactly two of these cells. I bought them when I got a VN modded light (since dead) as he said that my AWs might not provide enough current. They've been lightly used for a few years in an EDC light. Below is my Amazon review of them.

[FONT=&quot]Not reliable. Had a bit of a scare the other day, was surveying a job site and had to walk a utility tunnel. I had a battery case in my back pocket with spare cells in it for my EDC flashlight,which is a Sunwayman V11R, and before I went in I popped in one of these cells that I had charged up days before so I would have a completely topped up cell. It was one of these Olight cells, lightly used, maybe 2 years old. My light went out after only a few minutes and I had to walk a couple hundred yards back to the door by the light of my cell phone screen. Bit of a pucker moment given the state of disrepair of the building this tunnel was under. Today I put the same cell (recharged) in a Surefire 6P with a Malkoff Nichia 219 drop in along with an AW RCR123A (it's a 2x123 or 1x17650 light) and set a timer when I turned it on. It lasted just about two minutes before kicking off. I recharged and put it in my EDC and it didn't last a full minute. I've had the other Olight cell that I bought at the same time in the Sunwayman V11R turned all the way up and it ran for about 17.5 minute before kicking off (not sure if it was the cell or the light that went into protection.) So if I'd had the two cells reversed when I was at that job site I would never have had any issue, but I shouldn't have to worry about this. Lessons learned: 1) next time I do this I'm carrying aforementioned 6P so I have TWO lights with me (and let's be honest, I should have done that in the first place, I trust a light lego'd from all Surefire and Malkoff parts a lot more than I do Sunwayman, good as the Chinese are, there's something to be said for people I can call on the phone if I have a problem, who cares if I look like a cop with a great big light on my belt if I'm actually safe) and 2) I'm now stress testing all my cells before I go into a mission critical situation with them. I'm not quite paranoid enough to give up and use Surefire primaries for everything, but I'm getting close. Definitely I'm spending the evening going through my collection of lights and cells and making sure that every cell gives an appropriate runtime in the light for which it's intended, I don't need a repeat of that fecal show.[/FONT]

[FONT=&quot]On the flip side, the other of the pair that I bought a few years ago seems to work well. Had I kept that one in my flashlight when I was walking that tunnel I might have been OK. As I say above it had over 17 minutes runtime on the absolute highest setting so that I consider to be acceptable for the light it was in. However, I also just tested an older, more used AW brand 16350 in the same light and it had just about 25 minutes runtime on the same setting, so from now on I'm hoping Andy is going to release more of these cells because they are clearly superior to the Olight ones. As of right now, I trashed the questionable one of the pair as it cannot be relied on and will keep an eye on the other and will only use it as a backup to my AWs.
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night.hoodie

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...as he said that my AWs might not provide enough current.

I find this a little shocking. What kind of AW cells? ICR? IMR? RCR? What was wrong with your AW cells? Too old? Whatever cells there are that put out more current than AW, the list is short.

Just from CPF member reports of poor performance, I have gathered that Olight labeled Li-ion cells are for low current applications only, 250mA, 500mA, and the like, perhaps 2A peak but not sustained, while I (no expert) have not seen any AW cells that are rated less than 8A sustained, often have 20A+ max.

Unless your AW cells are blue RCR123A, and even if, I'd take them blind over a any brand new set of Olight cells fresh from factory. I think Olight only provides those cells for their reasonably low amp flashlights, for the purpose of "one stop shop," not to compete with other cells.

edit: missed that you are indeed talking about RCR.

I am not a fan of the format, mostly because I can never immediately determine what the chemistry is.

If they are LiFePO4, it is just the nature of the beast, they don't like high amps. Use primary or IMR if you want better and safer high amp performance.

But why RCR and not, say IMR (which is far better for high current)? Too much voltage? (the 8A AW cells I referred to above are IMR).

Supposedly, AW RCR123 (blue) cells are the only RCR that can safely and productively be used in incan (higher amp) application.

I think perhaps Vinh was saying boo on RCR, but you heard something else. Can't say for certain, but I have seen posts suggesting v11r can draw 2A (perhaps in turbo?), and I would say that is too much for any RCR. I honestly cannot see the benefit of RCR in any application but very low current.
 
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N8N

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I was told by Vinh that the driver he put in the light would draw enough current that the AWs might not be able to keep up. These were not IMR but the old 750mAh black label protected ICRs. I bought the Olights because they were labeled "for high drain devices" and were listed as having a 2A max discharge current. The VN light eventually died after several years of daily use and I went to using an unmodded Sunwayman V11R but kept using the Olight cells because they were there. That's pretty much it in a nutshell. I would have probably bought IMR cells instead but at the time they were still new, exciting, and a little pricey.

Maybe the truth is somewhere in between... using the cell in a hot rod light trusting that 2A meant 2A killed it young?

I do have LiFePO4 cells but only use them in two lights that simply can't tolerate RCRs.
 

rookiedaddy

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... they were labeled "for high drain devices" and were listed as having a 2A max discharge current. ...
The Amazon listing may have miscommunicated. With reference to a copy of Olight's original specification sheet received 2 years ago, these ORB-163P06 is rated for 2C discharge rate (~1300mA - 1500mA) and suggested charge current is 0.5C (actually, 250mA is recommended for longevity). They made some improvement to the later model, e.g. ORB-163C06 and ORBC-163C06. Still, not for high drain applications tho... The only rechargeable cell from Olight that's "truly" made for high-drain application is the ORB-163C05, which is an IMR battery, but they are specifically design for use in S1R (with Olight's magnetic charging system) and rated for 5C discharge .

6XEGEDF.png

:grin2:
 

N8N

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I'd have to look when I get home (the light on my belt now has an AW in it) but I'm pretty sure that the cells I have are the 163P06. That is the number that is on the Amazon ad (although I'm pretty sure I didn't actually buy them from amazon but from one of the usual CPF light geek suspect vendors) and I'm pretty sure I verified it was the same as my cells, also mine are the darker color as shown above, and I'm certain they're not the ORBC-163C06. As you can see in your picture, if you'd rotate the 163P06 just a little more, it says "FOR HIGH DRAIN DEVICES" below the box.

I bought these because of a) that wording and the 2A discharge spec (but it sounds like it's really not 2A but 2C?) and b) I considered Olight to be a more reputable name than *fire... live and learn I guess.

Also, I do charge them at 250mA unless I'm in a hurry which is rare.

And I just realized that the reason my light kicked off HAD to be the cell's protection circuit as a V11R can successfully be run on a AA cell, and in fact I actually own the little extension tube to do so in a pinch.
 
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Boris74

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The Amazon listing may have miscommunicated. With reference to a copy of Olight's original specification sheet received 2 years ago, these ORB-163P06 is rated for 2C discharge rate (~1300mA - 1500mA) and suggested charge current is 0.5C (actually, 250mA is recommended for longevity). They made some improvement to the later model, e.g. ORB-163C06 and ORBC-163C06. Still, not for high drain applications tho... The only rechargeable cell from Olight that's "truly" made for high-drain application is the ORB-163C05, which is an IMR battery, but they are specifically design for use in S1R (with Olight's magnetic charging system) and rated for 5C discharge .

6XEGEDF.png

:grin2:

I use the 163P06 which is claimed to be avoided. They power my SMini Ti and now I use them in the M1T. I also use them for backup in my H1R and S1R. They hit 600 lumens with no issue at all on the S/H1R lights. The S1R and H1R cells can be used in any light that will take a 16340, they aren't propriatary exclusively to only be used in them lights.

The performance y'all are describing sounds like how mine act when they are around 3.5V. Are you guys charging them all the way?
 

Boris74

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I use S1R cells in my SMini Ti all the time.

edit, didn't have the time earlier. That bottom pic, cap, you need to put a - next to it because the that's the end of the battery that contact is made for. I have two protac 1L-1AA lights and did a test on one. I wanted to see if it could handle a 16430, kind an like the microstream handles a 10440 just fine. Well the test ran for about 20 hours of run time on the little protac and a 16340 and I used one of the spare S1R cells I have. Light did fine and talk about wow bright with a 16340. I tried the to be avoided cell as well. The S1R and H1R cells have - on the bottom and +/- on the top. In a non R series baton Light the cell functions like the to be avoided cell. I even tried it in a Walmart bushnell 1 CR123 Light. Ran it bright. Any light that runs a 16340 will run a S1R cell and it can be charged externally in any charger that's handles 16340s just like any other cell.

That to be avoided cell being used in the SMini and M1T does just fine, they do better than just fine and there's is no need to avoid them. It sounds like they're being treated like a lifepo4 cell and only being charged to 3.7 volts. It's the only way you'd get such poor performance and even then it will run my S1R at 600 lumens first turbo at 3.7V. The to be avoided cell runs the M1T just fine, as does the S1R cell.
 
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night.hoodie

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labeled "for high drain devices" and were listed as having a 2A max discharge current.

Looks like rookiedaddy has all the pertinent info on Olight cells...

but I would say 2A max discharge is not a high drain candidate. If it can maintain 2A-4A indefinitely, that will do.

Also, Olight is neither the only Li-ion cell manufacturer, nor would I imagine among the best. Check out other CPF threads looking for good 16340 cells, and HKJ's cell reviews.
 

N8N

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Looks like rookiedaddy has all the pertinent info on Olight cells...

but I would say 2A max discharge is not a high drain candidate. If it can maintain 2A-4A indefinitely, that will do.

Also, Olight is neither the only Li-ion cell manufacturer, nor would I imagine among the best. Check out other CPF threads looking for good 16340 cells, and HKJ's cell reviews.

I'm kind of in information overload mode right now. I'd probably buy either more of the black AWs or the newer AW IMRs if either were available today as I've been happy with the black AWs... but I really honestly haven't paid attention to these forums in years and now it's time that I need to catch up on the past few years.
 

night.hoodie

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I'm kind of in information overload mode right now. I'd probably buy either more of the black AWs or the newer AW IMRs if either were available today as I've been happy with the black AWs... but I really honestly haven't paid attention to these forums in years and now it's time that I need to catch up on the past few years.

Last word is AW had a flood at the factory, no news since. Everyone wants AW back.

But a quick search just now revealed this thread wanting AW IMR16340 replacements, and this one looking for the same thing.

IMR is better for high current, maybe not as good for battery sipping. Some CPF members strongly prefer ICR because they can come with a "protection circuit," but personally, I never saw the point of these circuits, though they can protect the cells from user-abuse. Many believe they protect the user, which is just wrong, because they do not. Best practices protect the user and little else.

Good luck on your cell adventure, which is where flashaholics always end up when they think they're on a flashlight adventure.
 

Lou Minescence

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I bought 2 other guys in my shop Olight S1 flashlights and the ORB163P06 batteries. After about a year the batteries had very little capacity to run the lights on any of the medium or higher modes. We recycled the batteries. My black AW from 2011 still works great. Without a doubt the Olight RCR 123 batteries were not good quality. I purchased a bunch of different brand 123 batteries for the guys to use. No issues have come to our attention since.
 

mortuus

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Hm interesting, im using the second 16340 battery in my baton lights, so i shouldnt use them? what about keeppower 16340 are those any good?
 

Boris74

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Hm interesting, im using the second 16340 battery in my baton lights, so i shouldnt use them? what about keeppower 16340 are those any good?

I use them too, I'm going to guess you have no issues like me. If they work there's no need to stop using them. It's not like they will know what you've read and stop performing.

I am always up to try new cells to keep for backups. I use nitecore 14500s in my S1A because they work the best so if you can find a better 16340 go for it lol. An internet post on the web shouldn't be a deciding factor in what cells you use because everyone else uses or doesn't use them. Just how I see it. Does it really matter how you turn dark into light as long as it does it reliably? If the answer is yes I think people are too worried about an online image if so.

So if them cells are doing fine for you, why change? Because the internet said so? Seems legit as long as the online popular cell works just as good if image is as important as illuminating things that need to be seen in the dark.

Nope, they won't run turbo on super high lumen lights. Get the cell for the S1R if you need high draw. I've got over 200 full dead to full charged cycles on my original S1R cell and it's working like day one still. They will work in any light that uses 16340/RCR123, they are not proprietary to that light. They are only required for in light charging on that light only.
 

rookiedaddy

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...edit, didn't have the time earlier. That bottom pic, cap, you need to put a - next to it because the that's the end of the battery that contact is made for...
no I don't :ohgeez: because that's the tailcap of S1 Baton:nana:
I think I posted some explanation elsewhere... anyway, not "any light that will take a 16340" can use ORB-163C05, as it. If you really want to use ORB-163C05 without the inherent danger of shorting in "any light" -- especially those with spring at the positive contact, you need to make slight mod to the cell to insulate the -ve charging plate surrounding the button top.

===================

now, guys, allow me to clarify my position with regards to the ORB-163P06, my exact wording: "This is not a good battery. You should try to avoid getting this battery." This is based on my own experience using the cell and the main reason for such recommendation is there are much better 16340 batteries out there that are more durable. and now the imaginary questions:

what should I do with my existing ORB-163P06 cell?
if the light you use the ORB-163P06 with do not draw anything more than 2C (usually less than that), and you have not experience any weird flickering, mode finicky, nor sudden shutdown, then do continue to use it.

what if ORB-163P06 is the only option to buy?
although I think this situation is very unlikely to happen in this age of e-Commerce/M-Commerce everywhere... but if you absolutely positively think you are stuck in this scenario, there are still a few things you can do...
option 1: go primary CR123A
option 2: sell your light
option 3: use the money from option 2 to get the Olight S1A, use it with 14500 (although I can't recommend ORB-163P06, but I can recommend the Olight ORB-145P07, a 14500 cell, that is actually a pretty decent battery) :whistle:

like many, I too wish I can still get AW 16340, especially the AW IMR. Failing which, I'm now using cells from Fenix, KeepPower, NiteCore and the newer Olight Micro-USB rechargeable 16340 (ORBC-163C06), even the Olight IMR ORB-163C05 performs better (but do take note of the specific properties with this IMR cell explained above).

oh, since we are at the topic of Olight battery and charger, just in case this info was not shared anywhere else, please DO NOT recharge any of your Olight Proprietary rechargeable Li-Ion where the positive and negative charging contact is located at the same side (usually at the button top), those that Olight referred to as "Dual Polarity Battery" (ORB-163C05, ORB-163C06, ORB-186C35, etc.) using Olight's very own Universal Magnetic USB Charger, or the Olight UCC. :poof:
 
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