Luminator 40,000 Lumen .4kW 3D Printed Flashlight Liquid Cooled

Houdeani01

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Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
Hello All, I am new to this forum but I absolutely love LED's and make all kinds of random things with them. For this project which is a work in progress I have seen many people make the super bright lights on a chunk of aluminum or a board but I have not seen anyone put this in a flashlight. Thus I started designing parts and printing, with the goal of building a liquid cooled flashlight that houses 4 - 100Watt LED's that you can fully control the brightness. I am currently building this and wanted to post it out here to get any feedback or advise that people may have as I assemble this thing. The flashlight is 6" in diameter at each end and tapers to 2.25" in the center and is around 40" long so yes its huge. It will house master control for the lights as well as individual control for each 100watt LED as well as brightness control for each LED. It will also house a full liquid cooling system made up of powerful 80mm fan, reservoir, radiator and 40mm cooling blocks for LED's and drivers. This flashlight at full power should draw around 45amps and will be powered by a 6S 10,000 mAh lipo. More details to come but here are some pics and please if you have any questions comments or advice please send them my way this is the first flashlight I have ever built.


Full Flashlight:
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Front:
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Electronics Bay:
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Middle Section:
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Rear Battery and Radiator Housing:
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Last edited:

PolarLi

Enlightened
Joined
Nov 17, 2013
Messages
420
Location
Norway
Welcome to the forum, and that's a first post I like!
At the moment, I can't see the pictures, so I can't comment that much on the project yet.
 

JoeRodge

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 8, 2017
Messages
133
If you can't post images yet post the link and a mod can fix it for you. Got us excited :)
 

DIWdiver

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 27, 2010
Messages
2,725
Location
Connecticut, USA
You can't post pics directly. You have to host them somewhere else, and post a link. If you want them to show up directly, rather than as a link, click the 'Insert Image' button and paste the link in the box that comes up. Please do, I'd love to see what you are working on!

By the way, I think your math is off a bit. 6S lipo would be nominally 22.2V, and at that voltage, 400W would only take 18A. If you are well under 50% efficiency, you should rethink your configuration.

Oh, and don't forget the rules state that images in posts cannot be larger than 800x800 pixels. If you want to post bigger ones, post the link only. You can also do both.
 

Houdeani01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
Sorry guys they were links but I put them in wrong, here is the 3d Model

Full Flashlight:
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Front:
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Electronics Bay:
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Middle Section:
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Rear Battery and Radiator Housing:
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Houdeani01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
I have the head mostly complete all the LED's are in and the aluminum waterblocks are installed. I also added some strip led's around the sides so I can get some low level light when its turned on in low mode. Here are some pics of the business end of the flashlight.

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Houdeani01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
I have also printed off most of the other parts and assembled some of the pieces, I am still waiting for my boost converters so I can start on the electronics bay. For now I thought you might want to see a few more pictures of the flashlight that are real items rather than 3d models. I am still a little unsure on the cooling system and if it will be able to keep up but I guess we will see on that. I am also open for any feedback or thoughts you may have based on the items so far. I guess I can always reprint stuff if people have some better ideas. Oh and as for the amp dray you are correct it would be less if I had a 33volt power supply but I have to boost the voltage and that costs amperage, I also have fans and pumps to run. Over all I am not sure it will draw that much power but I am building/wiring it to handle 60amps just to be safe.

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Ok so those were the rough prints, after some sand paper and elbow grease, and some paint (still needs the clear coat but I am letting the color harden for a few more days);
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I also wanted to see the electronics so I just gave them some power to see what the controls will look like. There will essential be 4 sets of what you see, one set every 30 degrees to control each LED. Added a pic of the battery too because... well its huge;
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DrafterDan

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jul 28, 2013
Messages
1,317
Location
Phoenix, AZ
This is certainly fascinating, and a heck of a first flashlight post here!

So this will require a remote pack for battery and H2o reservoir?
Makes me think of the belt-pack lightsabers in the Knights of Old Republic star wars era.

My concern on this is that even with a water cooling system, I don't see much in the way of a heat sink, like you're relying almost exclusively on the water. Those LEDs are going to generate a huge amount of heat.
 

Houdeani01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
This is certainly fascinating, and a heck of a first flashlight post here!

So this will require a remote pack for battery and H2o reservoir?
Makes me think of the belt-pack lightsabers in the Knights of Old Republic star wars era.

My concern on this is that even with a water cooling system, I don't see much in the way of a heat sink, like you're relying almost exclusively on the water. Those LEDs are going to generate a huge amount of heat.


Battery pack goes in the rear of the flashlight and the reservoir goes in the middle section. so this is 100% self contained there will be no wires connecting outside of the housing. As for the heat you may be right I know they generate a lot of heat as I use them in many other application but I will have a large amount of liquid in there and my friend is a thermodynamics engineer and he thinks this will keep it cool for a little while anyway. There is no heat sink bcause this is an aluminum waterblock with internal fins that pulls all heat into the liquid and the LED's are clued to the water blocks using thermal adhesive.

The other way I look at it with this battery if I run the light at full power I am only going to get 15 min or so of run time so really this just has to keep them cool for 15 min :). If not I will melt the head and then go tun an aluminum one on my dads lathe but for now this was easier. However if you think I am way off here (which I could be) please let me know and give me some feedback on what you would change, I am open to make changes
 

Houdeani01

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Sep 20, 2018
Messages
26
Location
Twin Cities MN
This is certainly fascinating, and a heck of a first flashlight post here!

So this will require a remote pack for battery and H2o reservoir?
Makes me think of the belt-pack lightsabers in the Knights of Old Republic star wars era.

My concern on this is that even with a water cooling system, I don't see much in the way of a heat sink, like you're relying almost exclusively on the water. Those LEDs are going to generate a huge amount of heat.

Oh and here is the radiator that goes in the rear to take heat away from the liquid.
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Houdeani01

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This is certainly fascinating, and a heck of a first flashlight post here!

So this will require a remote pack for battery and H2o reservoir?
Makes me think of the belt-pack lightsabers in the Knights of Old Republic star wars era.

My concern on this is that even with a water cooling system, I don't see much in the way of a heat sink, like you're relying almost exclusively on the water. Those LEDs are going to generate a huge amount of heat.

This will be a fully self contained Flashlight with no external connections. The reservoir which will be filled with a coolant will go in the middle section and the Battery goes in the rear section and all parts are contained within the housing. The fan and radiator pictured below go in the rear of the flashlight. The liquid cooling setup is very efficient more so than a finned heatsink, the waterblock essential has fins in it that transfer the heat from the LED to the liquid. This is then pumped through the radiator which has a fan sucking cool air and and blowing it across the fins of the radiator to cool the liquid. I know this will cool the lights the question is will it cool them enough.

My thought is that at full power with a 10,000 mAh battery I am only going to get 15-20min of run time so as long as it does not get to hot in that time we should be good. Worst case scenario I melt the head and then I machine it out of aluminum. With that said I am open for an advise you have for altering this set up.

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y4mqAPNJAZ2G5l015S8rR6gXPnP3-W84yY5eXl7Sjl_okV0fn_HP0j15AGQpcIhAzYSiDTrwWWXCgaE3qHlBpxEMU3ChUfEcWNSoNk7KB3HmCQ-T8WcDIVOPZpCa8aO2ebLLgxIuLhW4VvlDNA8Js8z7OkTDl3n0Ca0d1-ccL6A96QAvA9fifr7Jpsv1p_YBAoryq6cknDX7DpEqbi-q2CVGw
 

PolarLi

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Now that's a unique design, in a good way. The cooling system will probably run somewhat hot for the "longer" runs. One way to keep it under control if necessary is to add the option of running pump and cooling fans without the LEDs on. That would bring down the coolant temperature pretty fast, so you would get another run after few minutes, Instead of just letting it sit, waiting maybe an hour for the water to cool by itself.
 

DIWdiver

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Wow, that's a monster!

Does the radiator have any specs that suggest it is adequate (or not)? You're going to have something in the range of 250W to dissipate at full power.

Is the tubing rated for elevated temps? Some types get pretty soft at 70C.
 

Houdeani01

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Now that's a unique design, in a good way. The cooling system will probably run somewhat hot for the "longer" runs. One way to keep it under control if necessary is to add the option of running pump and cooling fans without the LEDs on. That would bring down the coolant temperature pretty fast, so you would get another run after few minutes, Instead of just letting it sit, waiting maybe an hour for the water to cool by itself.

Yes I agree I do have the electronics set up so that I can run the pump and fan with the LED's off. I really should add a temp sensor to this to keep a closer eye on it.
 

Houdeani01

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Wow, that's a monster!

Does the radiator have any specs that suggest it is adequate (or not)? You're going to have something in the range of 250W to dissipate at full power.

Is the tubing rated for elevated temps? Some types get pretty soft at 70C.

Radiator has some specs on it fin density is 18 fins per inch but I am not sure if that is good enough for this or not. It would be really hard to get a bigger one in this form factor so I decided to give it a try. I think the tubing should be fine it has a pretty thick wall and is fairly ridged and I am clamping at all fittings. But the cooling system is a concern of mine as well.
 

Houdeani01

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I have a question for those that have built something like this before. Essentially I am going to have 4 boost controllers one for each led. My original plan was to have the main power switch go on but then you would need to turn on each of the push button switches for each led in order to see the lcd screen and turn on each led. I am now wondering if when the main power goes on if I should feed power to the boost controllers so I can get voltage read outs at each lcd. Then from there the push buttons would turn the led's on and off but you would never loose power to the lcd readouts until main power was off. The drawback here is all 4 boost controllers would have power but not really much current being drawn. Any suggestions or thoughts?
 

Houdeani01

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One more question for everyone I am planning to put on a circular piece of 1/8" plexiglass on the front to protect the LED's. It would be cool to get a lease of sorts for the end but it's 158mm in Diameter. Anyone have any thoughts on where I could get a lens around that size or make one?
 
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