
        
-
-
Administrator
Re: Hardcore UV Light
I moved your thread to the Dive Lighting forum... cuz... well... that's where it belongs! Welcome to CPF! -
- Going forward, please do not just post wherever you think is better. There are specific forums for specific topics. Please use them. Thank you.
-
*Flashaholic*
Re: Hardcore UV Light
I'm thinking you might want an HID dive lamp with a Woods Glass or dichroic UV-pass filter in front of it. I don't have a specific model in mind, but if I was doing this, that's what I'd look for. UV exploring is fun!
-
Flashaholic*
Re: Hardcore UV Light
Hi toni, and welcome to the forum!
Unfortunately, I have bad news for you. Your requirements are mutually incompatible.
Cheap + dive light = garbage
UV + red = expensive
4000 lm + 18650 = very short runtime
any lm + UV = impossible
4000 lm + red + 18650 = very, very short runtime (minutes)
4000 lm + red = expensive
You may have seen relatively inexpensive diving lights advertised as 4000 lm, but most of these specs are total fiction. Many low-end vendors claim 2-3 times the true output, some even more.
Since any pure UV light is, by definition, zero lumens, you have to talk about power output (typically in mW). There's been some discussion of UV LED lights on CPF, specifically for fluorescence. I don't specifically recall which forum, but you should be able to find it in either Diving, LEDs, or DIY Flashlights.
Red is still measured in lumens, but the human eye sensitivity varies greatly from 635 nm (the orange end of red) to 700 nm (almost infra-red). Even very optimistically, to get 4000 lm of red at 635 nm, you'd need over 50W. At 650 nm, which is really more red, you'd need over 100W.
Even if you were talking white, 4000 lm is still 28W (assuming 140 lm/W). Even that is not going to happen in an inexpensive light running on a single 18650.
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules
Bookmarks