EDC Basic bezel rings

Looks like I'm getting an EDC basic and I'd like to source a steel bezel ring for the light. Are these pretty much only available if someone is selling theirs off? Thanks.

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...S-1-00-quot-O-D-Stainless-and-Titanium-Bezels

I think @RPM has some that will fit.

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

Good choice in lights! And yes you will definitely need/want an after market bezel for this. It's the biggest weakness in these older HDS lights. So what light are you getting?

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

I'm taking the one bigburly has had for sale. Are these programmed like the current clickies or are they the 250 click variety. Hoping I can set it to start out in sub lumen.

thermal guy said:

Good choice in lights! And yes you will definitely need/want an after market bezel for this. It's the biggest weakness in these older HDS lights. So what light are you getting?

Click to expand...

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

Looks like he has titanium versions left. May have to track down one in steel. Is titanium the preferred metal for these things? I'm kinda a steel guy for parts like this. Also who is the preferred HDS modded if I decide to do an led swap on the EDC and whIch led do well in them?? Sorry aside from the clicky passaround I'm a total HDS newbie.

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

Vinh has done a few. Does a good job. I carry a clickie he modded. Let me find you some bezels I was looking at bud. I can't find the site

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

gurdygurds said:

I'm taking the one bigburly has had for sale. Are these programmed like the current clickies or are they the 250 click variety. Hoping I can set it to start out in sub lumen.

Click to expand...

They are the "250" click variety, but unfortunately not like the later Novatac interface. On the latter, you could "activate" programming in the menu after one round of 250 clicks, then access it with just a few clicks and a press. The Basic lights don't have that, so each time you want to go into the programming menu, or level setting menu, you need to do the full 250 click thing (on the Ultimates, it was just 10 clicks). I have done it twice to turn off force setting, i.e. memory on, and turn on momentary. You might like this, as you can turn off in low, or Preset D, and it will come on there. Otherwise, you will need to go in once to turn force setting off, and again to set it on to Preset D. Or you could go in once to set Preset B to a low level, and again to set Preset D to something else. Lots of ways to skin that cat, but they all make your thumb ache.

Congradulations, nice light! You now have month-long low runtimes available.

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

gurdygurds said:

Looks like he has titanium versions left. May have to track down one in steel. Is titanium the preferred metal for these things? I'm kinda a steel guy for parts like this....

Click to expand...

May depend on your exact needs, but either should be fine for most purposes.

Personally, I like titanium for this, and the @RPM versions are most excellent

Here's one (in Ti) on my SuperNOVA ...

Re: EDC Ultimate bezel rings

Thanks Hondo. I'm not going to pretend that I'm not totally confused about the light because I AM! Good thing is, the executive seemed confusing as all get out, but after watching Hogo's latest HDS vids on YouTube I was a pen go program the passaround light to my liking fairly quickly. I think once I get the light setup how I like I'll be good to go. Don't think I'll want to switch things up often. I'll play around with it how it comes from bigburly and then decide if it want to go crazy clicking on the thing and attempting to program it. Couple more questions. Knurled tail...unobtanium? Also if you remove the clip do the exposed holes cause any concern, and are there other clip variations available?

Hondo said:

They are the "250" click variety, but unfortunately not like the later Novatac interface. On the latter, you could "activate" programming in the menu after one round of 250 clicks, then access it with just a few clicks and a press. The Basic lights don't have that, so each time you want to go into the programming menu, or level setting menu, you need to do the full 250 click thing (on the Ultimates, it was just 10 clicks). I have done it twice to turn off force setting, i.e. memory on, and turn on momentary. You might like this, as you can turn off in low, or Preset D, and it will come on there. Otherwise, you will need to go in once to turn force setting off, and again to set it on to Preset D. Or you could go in once to set Preset B to a low level, and again to set Preset D to something else. Lots of ways to skin that cat, but they all make your thumb ache.

Congradulations, nice light! You now have month-long low runtimes available.

Click to expand...

You can always put some plugs in the holes with the clip removed.

You will need the body and Knurled tail as a unit. The body and switch are one piece in yours.

I have an EDC Basic 42 GT. Titanium is excellent for bezels, if you see one you like in Ti, I wouldn't wait for steel. I got mine from the Shoppe ages ago.

The knurled tails were unobtainium years ago. I cobbled one together with an HDS Type B battery tube and a cap from an HDS 17650 battery tube while LightHound was in business, and added a Novatac clip under the cap. Contrary to popular belief, caps and tubes can be taken apart, but it's very hard (Loctite red) and I think Henry warned against trying this.

I'm not in the modding business, but I kludged a Nichia 219A into mine, after an SSC replacement for the original Luxeon. The light is machined to hold the old Luxeon 1W (and thus the SSC-P4), so alterations are required to hold modern LEDs. The electronics are all potted, so no mods or repairs are possible there. You get whatever levels Henry programmed into your light at the factory, into whatever LED you choose.

The clip holes can be filled with small screws, 4-40 IIRC. I thought someone was actually giving them away to CPF members on request.

You'll get used to the 250 click deal - or just live with the way it is!

louie said:

The clip holes can be filled with small screws, 4-40 IIRC. I thought someone was actually giving them away to CPF members on request.

You'll get used to the 250 click deal - or just live with the way it is!

Click to expand...

I think it was arewethereyetdad and his "Get Screwed" deal. I could be wrong though... I have had a head injury.

Thanks for the help kind sirs 👍🏼 If I buy a bezel from RPM, does it come with a tool to remove/replace?

Congrats!

The manual
https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Legacy/EdcBasic/EdcBasicUsersGuide.pdf
Says:
"Your light is configured at the factory with the following settings:
- Maximum setting: 42 lumens
- Primary setting: 10 lumens (turn-on setting )
- Secondary setting: 2 lumens
- Minimum setting: 0.3 lumens"

—-
The lowest level available if you access brightness menu is 0.08 lumens

I recommend Disabling option 4, which is required before you can change brightness level of preset D from 0.33 to 0.08

Here is the manual for the programmable interface:
https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Legacy/EdcUltimate/EdcUltimateUsersGuide.pdf
It says:
"Note: you may notice a slight flicker on the very low brightness levels. This is normal."

And
"You enter the Options Menu by 10-clicking [250 for the Basic] the button while your light is turned off. Your light toggles on and off while you are clicking but this is normal. If you don't want to count, just keep clicking until your light stays on."

To do the 250 click i like to place the light, bezel down, on a table, then start mashing the button

Here are the brightness levels available:

Tool? Everyone uses the bottom of their shoe, or the equivalent. No kidding! There's no Loctite, you don't really need Henry's special tool.

I just shove them into my hand or one of my fingers and turn it. Like I've said in other posts though my hands would rival armadillo skin

You can also use the id part of a set of calipers. Works great.

It's just a retainer ring with 4 slots in it to grab onto. It's really pretty easy

jon_slider said:

Congrats!

The manual
https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Legacy/EdcBasic/EdcBasicUsersGuide.pdf
Says:
"Your light is configured at the factory with the following settings:
- Maximum setting: 42 lumens
- Primary setting: 10 lumens (turn-on setting )
- Secondary setting: 2 lumens
- Minimum setting: 0.3 lumens"

—-
The lowest level available if you access brightness menu is 0.08 lumens

I recommend Disabling option 4, which is required before you can change brightness level of preset D from 0.33 to 0.08

Here is the manual for the programmable interface:
https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Legacy/EdcUltimate/EdcUltimateUsersGuide.pdf
It says:
"Note: you may notice a slight flicker on the very low brightness levels. This is normal."

And
"You enter the Options Menu by 10-clicking [250 for the Basic] the button while your light is turned off. Your light toggles on and off while you are clicking but this is normal. If you don't want to count, just keep clicking until your light stays on."

To do the 250 click i like to place the light, bezel down, on a table, then start mashing the button

Here are the brightness levels available:

Click to expand...

Since it looks like the LED has been changed to an SSC, you can very roughly expect about twice the factory levels. Each light was individually set for rated output with the original LED, so everything is different with replacement LEDs.