My ongoing Niteye Eye10 TiC Emitter Swap

somnambulated

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
128
I've had an Eye10 TiC that's seen heavy edc since release. Recently, I decided an updated emitter was worth the risk, using the guide posted in this very forum.

Nichia 319AT:

1152a4ca8671b998ef23e06a02cb3f9a.jpg


The LED star had to be filed down significantly to fit. I did it with a Leatherman Squirt file.

f3215ed4bf5a9d76d6aff197a0743ebb.jpg


Having frayed the wires too short soldering and desoldering to find a short, I eventually had to replace the leads on the driver.

24d18d7d3e222fb24a6b3a15f54b82af.jpg


I stacked a nylon spacer with a translucent adapter from Mountain Electronics and a GITD o-ring

502e7f7c22bbdcec49827b5ea665dd48.jpg


Unfortunately, I can't find an assortment of GITD o-rings online, and the Flashaholic supplier I loved is now out of business.

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Here's a poor beam shot:

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Unfortunately, that was the last I took before accidentally de-doming the LED & phosphor while cleaning off some residual Arctic Silver.

8402f6eef4c7f455b55d11c2192cd987.jpg


The 319AT 70+ CRI was yellower than expected, but beat the violet blue without phosphor.


New LEDs on the way. I'll either be reflowing on the cut-down star, or starting from scratch!
 
Last edited:

somnambulated

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
128
Thanks for moving!

I reflowed a Nichia 219c 80 CRI 5000k to the board. Board's a bit chewed up and toasted from the lighter I used, but it's better than re-filing one!

314234c91e4025dbf664f54e3a8b2331.jpg


Anything to avoid re-soldering leads the inside of a dual-layer board that doesn't pull apart.

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Cut down a 3M heat resistant insulating gasket to keep the reflector from shorting on the solder.

7561b4677773519b9e580fc2aa12deb0.jpg


GITD o-ring effect isn't bad.
fa22784218101c5dd471a0de6d062d05.jpg
 
Last edited:

jon_slider

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 31, 2015
Messages
5,139
congrats on your progress

did the 219c work properly?

any change to the way the ring responds?

do you have a light meter?

have you seen this: (V11r modded w 219c 3000k)


notice in the video that the numbers keep changing without touching the light.
notice that the brightness drifts a large percentage
notice that the brightness changes by reorienting which way the light is facing, without moving the control ring

got any of these symptoms after the LED swap?
note this may not be visible to the naked eye
 

theatrus

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Oct 30, 2018
Messages
1
congrats on your progress

did the 219c work properly?

any change to the way the ring responds?

do you have a light meter?

have you seen this: (V11r modded w 219c 3000k)


notice in the video that the numbers keep changing without touching the light.
notice that the brightness drifts a large percentage
notice that the brightness changes by reorienting which way the light is facing, without moving the control ring

got any of these symptoms after the LED swap?
note this may not be visible to the naked eye


Without a proper integrating sphere, the difference is most likely measurement error from this meter and integrating method.

I'd expect output to shift over time due to thermals until it reaches a steady state of temperature, assuming input voltage remains the same.
 

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