3x led & driver wiring question

LockedSemaphore

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Oct 29, 2018
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Hi everyone, I'm new here, and trying my first flashlight build. And just want to make sure I'm going to wire this up right when I put it in my light host (probably a convoy s2+).

i bought the following from mtn electronics:
3 X Nichols 219s (mtn3xp-219c-d420)
qlite 17mm driver 7135*8
18650 Samsung inr

NyUmAsg


In my (all be it) ghetto wiring, I have light! However it seemed "too easy", so wanted to ensure I wasn't missing anything?

also, when I put the driver and leds in the pill, will I ground both to the pill (thereby grounding on the host/frame)? Subsequently the switch (clicks) on the host will also ground to the frame?

any insight would be greatly appreciated!
thanks in advance!
 

datiLED

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May 9, 2006
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Atlanta, GA
I can't see your picture, but light is good!

You will only ground the converter board to the pill. The only connections to the LED board are from the converter.
 

LockedSemaphore

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Oct 29, 2018
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I can't see your picture, but light is good!

You will only ground the converter board to the pill. The only connections to the LED board are from the converter.

Thanks for the reply!

Let's try this again
Image inline:
NyUmAsg


Image link on imgur:http://imgur.com/gallery/NyUmAsg


In the image I have the LED negative being wired to both the Battery neg and the driver neg.
I'll wire it up again this evening to validate (and post another pic to hopefully help the next new guy).
 

DrafterDan

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Jul 28, 2013
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Phoenix, AZ
Yes, the battery positive + is always in contact with the driver, the tail switch completes the negative - circuit through the body of the flashlight, and onto the outer edge of the driver.

After you get three posts, you can use your hosting site to upload links to your photos. Is this your first build? I made up a S2+ recently, ended up with a mish-mosh of LEDs, because I was cleaning out the spare parts bin!

I used an LED4Power triple mpcb and driver
7XH5Uy.jpg


LBzRou.jpg
 

DIWdiver

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Jan 27, 2010
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2,725
Location
Connecticut, USA
It does not appear to me that you have that wired correctly. It looks like you have wired direct drive, which is LED directly to the battery. You are lucky you haven't fried the LED.

I see two wires soldered on the driver, and I assume these are the red and black wires as shown in the picture on Mountain's web site. If so, the correct connection is:
Battery + to spring on driver
Battery - to outer ring on driver (when you assemble the light this will connect to the pill, and then to the body, through the switch to bat-).
LED+ to red wire on driver (marked '+' in white on the board).
LED - to black wire on board (don't see it in Mountain's pics, but should be marked '-' on the board).

The red wire connects directly to the spring on the board, which is why you have the thing wired direct drive.

If that's not helpful, post a pic with the LED off so we can see the connections better.
 
Last edited:

LockedSemaphore

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Oct 29, 2018
Messages
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It does not appear to me that you have that wired correctly. It looks like you have wired direct drive, which is LED directly to the battery. You are lucky you haven't fried the LED.

I see two wires soldered on the driver, and I assume these are the red and black wires as shown in the picture on Mountain's web site. If so, the correct connection is:
Battery + to spring on driver
Battery - to outer ring on driver (when you assemble the light this will connect to the pill, and then to the body, through the switch to bat-).
LED+ to red wire on driver (marked '+' in white on the board).
LED - to black wire on board (don't see it in Mountain's pics, but should be marked '-' on the board).

The red wire connects directly to the spring on the board, which is why you have the thing wired direct drive.

If that's not helpful, post a pic with the LED off so we can see the connections better.


Ok, based on DIWdiver's description, i updated wiring and believe it's accurrate now. The driver even functions in different modes based upon the number of times power is interrupted!

I never would have realized I needed to ground the driver on the outer ring! This caused me take note of the green "tab" on the driver the extends beyond the outer ring, it can be seen in the pictures. I *assume* this is a tab left over from manufacturing and can be safely removed, however I wanted to verify here before breaking it off!

https://imgur.com/gallery/PpzjduK has the most recent pictures. Does this look right now?


Also, some asked if this was my first s2 build. Yes! My first ever build actually! I ordered the hosts I want to put this in, I think I might go with a 18350 though as I'm wanting an edc light, so what the heck, ordered both the 18350 and 18650 hosts. Yes, I do realize the 18650 host I ordered is a complete light, figured I'd have 2 full lights functional that way. Anyhow here is what I just ordered (haven't decided on which optic I want, so for $1.55 each I ordered 3 more variations...)


Vapcell 18350 1100mAh 10A - Flat topVC-18350-11001$5.25$5.25
XTAR MC2 Charger - 14500 - 16340 -18350 - 18500- 18650 - 26650XTAR-MC21$7.50$7.50
10507 Carclo Lens - 3-UP Narrow Spot OpticCARCLO-105071$1.55$1.55
Convoy S2+ Flashlight - Blue - XM-L2 - 1x18650
- Tint: XM-L2 U2 1A
CON-S2+-BLUE1$16.99$16.99
Convoy S2+ 18350 Flashlight Host - GreyCONVYS2+HOST-183501$9.35$9.35
10508 Carclo Lens - 3-UP Frosted Medium Spot OpticCARCLO-105081$1.55$1.55
10511 Carclo Lens - 3-UP Frosted Narrow Spot OpticCARCLO-10511
 

DIWdiver

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Connecticut, USA
If the modes are working, you must have it wired correctly. Congrats on your first build!

Yes, the green tab is left over from the manufacturing process and can be simply broken off. It should have been broken off by the manufacturer, but I guess they got lazy. You may also have to sand or file the edge smooth for it to fit into the pill.

By the way, that's not ghetto, it's proto! I have a bunch of clip leads, and use them frequently.
 
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