First Encounter with an HDS Rotary XP-G 200 Cool White

jon_slider

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I just received my first HDS Rotary, a CW XP-G 200 from 2011

Factory presets are
A Maximum
B Rotary
C 10 lumens
D Slow Strobe (Bike Flasher)

Force Preset B is ON
the next 2 settings had been customized by the Previous Owner:
Triple Click Button Lockout is ON
Pseudo Momentary is ON and uses the Rotary dial position

I measured the output on my homebrew meter
minimum 0.08
maximum 180 (10% error, my meter reads low)

First Impressions
The dial is deliciously smooth in both directions
Knurling is pleasantly smooth and non aggressive, which I prefer

The Crenelations of the Bezel are not overly sharp, which I also prefer
The button is a little squishy, but it is completely recessed and tailstanding is perfect

My iPhone Camera and my Video Camera, detects NO Flicker on the lowest mode, nor on any other mode.. YAY!

Tint is white hotspot, green around the corona of the hotspot, then violet in the spill, and then a brighter ring around the outer edge of the spill. I actually like the outer ring, it lets me know where the edge of the beam is, more easily than a spill that fades in a diffused way.

there is a cross shaped donut hole in the hotspot if held closer than 3" away from the surface Im illuminating

Reflector has a slight orange peel texture, which I like

The LED is perfectly centered, like!

When I rotate the dial to increase brightness I find the steps a bit disconcerting, feels a bit like a strobe


Next I enabled Customized Programming

Enable Customization
20click press hold until light turns off (displays ramping up brightness and then turns off)
now customization is enabled
I leave it enabled because I like the ability to change brightness presets and Options

Change Preset C to about 20 lumens
turn on, double click to reach C
double click press hold release, click to advance one step at a time, do this twice
my light meter said 18.8 lumens, press hold until light turns off
done, C is now about 20 lumens

Change preset D to Strobe:
triple click to reach D
double click press hold release to reach brightness presets
click through to the strobe
press hold until light turns off
now strobe is enabled

Turn off triple click button lockout
from on do a triple click then hold release, this enters the option menu
click until reaching the triple flash
press hold until light turns off
button lockout is now off

Turn off Momentary
go to options menu (triple click press hold release)
single click to advance through the Options menu
find the long flash short flash that indicates Pseudo Momentaryd
press hold until off
momentary is now off

My Customization Results:
A Maximum
B Rotary
C 19 lumens
D Fast Strobe

Force Preset B is ON
Triple Click Button Lockout is OFF
Pseudo Momentary is OFF

Pics, Left to right 4000k N219b 9050 90 CRI, 4500k N219b 9080 90 CRI, 6000k XP-G 70 CRI
vz7DFHo.jpg


QDAKvF3.jpg


VA03cOp.jpg


the only way I have been able to see, with my naked eyes, the PWM or Flicker that maukka has documented,
I noticed some flicker on the lower levels 1-6 on my light.
...
The flicker on the HDS will probably never be visible in normal use.

is to wave the light on lowest mode, which is not something I do in normal use:
WeWZhfP.png
 
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jon_slider

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Im really enjoying learning about it.. So glad it finally is dark LOL :)

I found the correct Manual, V1

I did a Factory Reset to confirm the Default Presets are
A Max
B Rotary
C 10 Lumens, I changed this to 19 lumens
D Bike Flasher aka Slow Strobe I changed this to Fast Strobe aka Tactical Strobe

with the following Options Menu sequence and defaults, and the Customizations I chose
1. TurnOnPreset–indicated by<longflash> default is ON B Rotary
2. ButtonLock–indicated by<threerapidflashes> default is OFF
3. AutomaticTurnOff–indicated by<bright-to-dim-ramp> default is OFF, I turned it ON, I confirmed the timer lasts 10 minutes
4. LocatorFlash–indicated by<dimflash> default is OFF
5. Momentary–indicated by<longflash, shortflash> default is OFF
6. Burst–indicated by<brighter-dimmer> default is ON, confirmed the step down one level after 40 seconds on Max
7. Customization–indicated by<dim-to-bright-ramp> default is OFF I turned it ON w the 20 click

and I did the process to determine the firmware version
I got binary number 00010100 which converts to 2.0 in decimal format (from March 2011)
 
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jon_slider

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Now EDC it and enjoy. They are great lights.

Youre right!
All specs and pics aside, in actual use, This thing is way cool!

It is plenty bright to reach out to the fence in my back yard, it feels great in hand, the Rotary UI is freaking fantastic, and as Im now starting to slow down when I spin the dial, Im loving the steps, so I can tell when I have made a small incremental change.

I have it set up the same as my Novatac, except when I want to change my low mode preset B, I dont have to use morse code.. yet I still have a triple tap to strobe, double tap to medium, and press for too much light!:)

the HDS is slightly taller, and notably more slender, by a smidge, than the Novatac.

Next comes Tint Play:

I've had good luck with the older V2 & V3 HDS 200 XPG & 250 XP-G2 (Angry Blue-Green tint as Hogo mentioned) by using a Lee filter #162 Amber (Pale-Amber-Beer color). Changes the XPG into a neutral 4600°k-ish with realistic true color rendering. The XPG is originally around 6300°k 73 CRI. Now I have to re-think this whole HiCRI thing. My new 219B 4500°k HiCRI which I like a lot (slightly) enhances the colors, particularly the reds and browns, but they are not the true colors as I see them in daylight, the colors are actually a little richer at night with this HiCRI 219B 4500°k.

If you have an older HDS and want to fool around with the tint these Lee filters are worth a look:
(You just cut one out the size of the lens and place it over the reflector).
https://shop.leefiltersusa.com/Swatch-Book-Designers-Edition-SWB.htm


http://www.leefilters.com/lighting/colour-list.html

I have started testing the ******* Amber Filter 162, and comparing it to the half minus green and quarter minus green.. I have not tried removing the bezel and lens yet, but I can see why you like the Amber. I agree it is a nice Tint.

Also agree the 4500 219b oversaturates, it is quite unique in several ways. I especially like that it is neither yellow nor green, even if it is a bit overly pink :)

Thanks for the suggestions and links.
 

WarriorOfLight

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I just received my first HDS Rotary, a CW XP-G 200 from 2011
Great your Rotary arrived! Also cool you like it. I am Pretty sure that will not be the last one.

Maybe you will have the luck getting one of the "Low K" Rotaries from the legendary Hogo run. I like the 2700-3500K versions a lot.

On your beamshot the tint of your Rotary does not look that good if it is compared to a 4000K or 4500K 219B. But in my opinion, at least it is the case with my 250 Lumens, the tint is not bad for a cool White LED.
 

jon_slider

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in my opinion, at least it is the case with my 250 Lumens, the tint is not bad for a cool White LED.

I agree the XP-G2 is a great LED.

The XPG has a lot of great features to it also, mostly it looks white and I dont mind the slight green tint at all.

Im enjoying getting to know the light in stock form, no rush to change anything, though I do have an SW45 set aside for it.

Like you, I also like the warmer LEDs, and the 3500k 219b is very interesting.. it is a wonderful time to be into LED lights, and Hogo is doing an amazing job sourcing special options in High CRI.

For the warmer lights I think the diffuse reflectors create a great option as well.. I was very happy for you to get the UV glow also.. congrats!:)
 
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Hogokansatsukan

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I agree the XP-G2 is a great LED.

The XPG has a lot of great features to it also, mostly it looks white and I dont mind the slight green tint at all.

Im enjoying getting to know the light in stock form, no rush to change anything, though I do have an SW45 set aside for it.

Like you, I also like the warmer LEDs, and the 3500k 219b is very interesting.. it is a wonderful time to be into LED lights, and Hogo is doing an amazing job sourcing special options in High CRI.

For the warmer lights I think the diffuse reflectors create a great option as well.. I was very happy for you to get the UV glow also.. congrats!:)

There should be some other interesting emitter options coming in a few months.
One of them I am particularly interested in but I'm not going to post what it is for several reasons. First and foremost, I'm a ****... Actually, it is because of the "stir" it might create... which it will anyway, but it will just make folks who don't understand bin codes gnash their teeth and make unintelligent comments (much like politicians) and I've heard quite enough of that over the last couple of months (from politicians), so people will just have to wait as I don't wish to deal with that sort of thing here. Let's just say it took Henry and I (well, I sat there as Henry explained aspects of bin codes and black body radiator lines, and a host of other things that pretty much flew over my head the first 4 times he explained it, but the fifth time... I understood. Then it was calling various suppliers to have them check their emitters to find out exactly what bin codes they have (which makes them upset because they have to go check the reels and then call us back in a few days as they don't put the numbers we need on their web sites), and then we have to hope they have the particular one we are looking for (most don't, but that is why we call), and then we (actually Henry) tries to get them to split a reel and sell us some for the exact bin we are looking for. Easy peasy...

More to come later... most likely in it's own thread.

In the meantime, enjoy that Rotary!
 
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jon_slider

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... in a few months.... unintelligent comments

In the meantime, enjoy that Rotary!

LOL! thank you.. Im enjoying it greatly, in actual use I cant tell the tint is green and the CRI is Low.
The HDS tight hotspot beam is outstanding, and I Love the option to change modes without using morse code

but
I can't wait, so let me be the first to say something unintelligent,

the LHD351D has Green Tint.. ;-)

warning, I have a European Sense of Humor, no offense to anyone, including Europeans
 
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jon_slider

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LOL
Im lost

So Im turning on my Locator Beacons ;-)
NjJvDTv.jpg


and hiding a crib sheet here, for the different Options Menus in different HDS years:
2rXDtle.png
 
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Lithium466

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Nice light, you got yourself a keeper ;)
Also glad to hear you can do a factory reset, I thought the very first rotary had the bug that prevent the factory reset to be done...but it must have been corrected without changing the firmware version.

Also good to hear new emitters are coming. Samsung, Luminus ? We'll see when time will come!
 

jon_slider

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thanks, yes the factory reset made C 10 lumens and D a bicycle flasher
later years put flasher on C and Strobe on D, which is where I like it, as that is consistent with my Olight UI also

this year firmware makes C and D rotary dial only
I can see how that can be less confusing

sometimes after a double click, that I customized to 20 lumens, I turn the dial and nothing happens.. LOL

Im having so much Rum I feel Giddy, I mean.. Fun!
 

fyrstormer

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My brand-new HDS Rotary doesn't exhibit PWM. Maybe there's a way to get the firmware updated in your older model.

Also, mine has a mostly-smooth reflector that appears to be made of lathed stainless steel, but despite not having orange peel the beam is surprisingly smooth. I'm not sure if this is because of the larger emitter dies used in newer LEDs, or if someone finally figured out the magic formula for shaping smooth reflectors that don't produce rings and other artifacts in the beam.
 
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jon_slider

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Glad you are enjoying your light and reflector.. congrats

Yes a firmware upgrade to 2.18 is also an option

Im considering whether I want anything in the new FW version, before proceeding with a mod to N219b sw45 9080

The process of upgrading firmware, includes recalibration to stock.. any lumen gains from the High CRI upgrade (if there are any) will be lost

Im very impressed by the tight hotspot the HDS reflector produces
Im hoping it plays well with the relatively small N219b
 

thermal guy

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Well look at the bright side. Bet ya with the pwm you guys are getting runtime has increased 😂😂
 

jon_slider

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Well look at the bright side. Bet ya with the pwm you guys are getting runtime has increased 😂😂
LOL!
What you cant see, wont hurt you.

Lets definitely NOT argue about PWM.. it is what it is.
and no, the runtime has not increased since the Acme era started in 2011.. your U60 wins the runtime race hands down!

fwiw
HDS has been using PWM below 500Hz since at least 2007:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...ist-lt-lt-lt&p=1901201&viewfull=1#post1901201

and they still do today
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...stems-EDC-21&p=5236123&highlight=#post5236123

but like I said, if you cant see it, you cannot be harmed by it
just dont wave your light like a madman, and all will be well

now back to our regularly scheduled program.. observe the marvels of the Rotary interface, and my superior technique ;-) (thats a joke)
 
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fyrstormer

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I'm not arguing about the benefits or drawbacks of using PWM. All I'm saying is the HDS Rotary Custom that I ordered a few weeks ago shows no visible PWM on any setting, and I know my eyes are good enough to see PWM on other lights I own. They must've improved their design in recent years.

As far as adjusting the light, I prefer to maintain an overhand hold on it, since that's what's necessary to operate the power switch in the first place. Then I adjust the knob with my thumb and forefinger, rather than holding the knob in the palm of my hand and turning the rest of the light as you did.
 

Hondo

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I have started testing the ******* Amber Filter 162, and comparing it to the half minus green and quarter minus green.. I have not tried removing the bezel and lens yet, but I can see why you like the Amber. I agree it is a nice Tint.


I have used the ******* Amber on quite a few lights, but note that due to subtle tint differences of the particular light, what looks good on one might not be so good on another.

What I like to do is pick several of my lights that I like, that make other lights look bad when the beams are crossed, and tailstand them along the length of a table. Then I pick out a bunch of prospects from the swatch book and fan them out so I can move the light from one to the next. By comparing with the beams on the ceiling, I can find the one that best gives what I'm trying to achieve. It's the ultimate "beam crossing"!
 
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