Bringing my E2E back to life.

thermal guy

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With all the new Dropin's and Million Lumen lights of today I sometimes forget how great my older lights are.I have a very old E2E probably 2005 fitted with an E to C adapter that I carried for years. I was going through my box of old stuff and found a P60 that I had for my old 6P. Put her in with 2 fresh primaries and I got to tell you I had forgotten how bright and how good the throw was! Brings back memories of when I first got into lights. In fact this was my first "expensive " light I ever bought. I'm thinking of grabbing a Malkoff M60W to put in it to kinda duplicate the incandescent beam. Old is sometimes good! 😀
 

thermal guy

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I was thinking about it but want this to be kinda bomb proof as well so looking at the leds. And maybe a little brighter. Thinking with the M61Wll I will get the best of both worlds
 

fyrstormer

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Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour. ;) LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.
 

thermal guy

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Lol oh I'm well aware of that. Spent many of my hard earned dollars buying sf 123 before the led came into being.
 

DUQ

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Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour. ;) LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.

Get out of here with that blasphemous tongue :twothumbs
 

thermal guy

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Lol god I remember when Fenix came out with there little led fed by a 123 think it was the pd10 maybe. It was small a Keychain light and when it first came out LEDs were kinda just taking off well they compared this little thing with a sf 9p with beam shots and that Fenix killed that 9p! I was soooo impressed with LEDs from that point on but still when I use my incadencense lights now don't have many but when I do between the throw and the color I get hooked again. It's just that Dam runtime that kills it for me.
 

Timothybil

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Now run that 6P incan some more and watch those primary cells wither and die in a half-hour. ;) LEDs don't just let us have super-bright lights, they also let us use a lot less power to get the same light.
Lumens Factory has a couple of D26 (aka P60) incan drop ins that are designed to run on 3.7v. 16550 incan at full output anyone?
 

thermal guy

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I'm looking at them wondering if they have the throw and color of the p60.if so I'm all set cause I will have the best of both worlds. So ya anyone got experience with these Dropins??
 

fyrstormer

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They're incandescent drop-ins, so the tint should be pretty much indistinguishable from the stock Surefire incandescent drop-ins. There's only so hot you can get a coil of tungsten wire before it melts, after all.
 

thermal guy

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Well yes that is what I'm thinking but it seems that the brightness is an issue. Sf p60 states 65 lumens. Lf Dropins are 120-190 lumens and people have stated that they don't look as bright. I will be using a 16650 as they now have more capacity then the older 17650. I think one is listing bulb lumens the other out the front.guess I'll just grab a few an see what's what.
 

ven

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Tarik's singLED is another option, available in several flavours(maybe down to 3000k).
4v22adkl.jpg

Small/tight hot spot similar to the OE surefire bulb
671sTHBl.jpg

uKAevXVl.jpg


UAzNdf4l.jpg


http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...T-SingLED-modules-for-Surefire-incan-E-series
 

scout24

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Lumensfactory lumens are approx. 2/3 of stated when compared to SF lumens. And the smaller reflector won't throw quite as well. That said, E series goodness is :thumbsup:

PS- I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.
 
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Timothybil

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Long, long time ago, when all I owned was my G2, I swapped my P60 for a Lumens Factory HO-6. I saw no difference in the color temp between the two lights, but the HO-6 was noticeably brighter. Being a newbie at the time, I was using the standard two CR123 for power. Thus began my love affair with Lumens Factory.
 

fyrstormer

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Well yes that is what I'm thinking but it seems that the brightness is an issue. Sf p60 states 65 lumens. Lf Dropins are 120-190 lumens and people have stated that they don't look as bright. I will be using a 16650 as they now have more capacity then the older 17650. I think one is listing bulb lumens the other out the front.guess I'll just grab a few an see what's what.
Lumens Factory also makes bulbs that are RCR-compatible, whereas Surefire's E-series incan bulbs don't support RCRs.

PS- I've not met a single cell incan yet with that nice white overdriven color temp we all know and love. Close, but not quite. Nothing wrong with a bit of yellow though.
You *could* get that nice white overdriven color temperature using a RCR cell with a bulb designed for slightly lower voltage, but running any incan that hard is hell on the filament. You'd need a soft-start switch to keep from popping the filament the first time you turn it on. (I learned that the hard way.) Does anyone even make an E-series soft-start switch?
 
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night.hoodie

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I find 3V incan output to be about the most used/useful output, so I run 1600mAh NiMh 2/3A cells in my E2e, with a couple magnet spacers, using Tad A3712. Great runtime and very steady output. I use other brightnesses, just not nearly as much as 3V. MN03 is still available and does fire on lower voltages. But Tad Customs sells brass E-sockets for his bipin Xenon lamps of various voltages, and thus is irresistible, though technically not "bomb-proof" like SF product, Tad's product does fantastic anyway. I like MN01, but very difficult to find. I use Lumens Factory HO-E1A with 1xAA, but recently discovered 2xAA with Tad's A6010 is twice as bright for twice as long, but still a level far below typical 3V output. I am experimenting with brighter setups, but so far anything above what Tad's A3712 puts out on a single IMR has been beyond overkill. I have a fistful of well-regarded High CRI Yugi 5mm LED that will work with 3V without a driver in Tad Customs socket (safely stored sitting in a package at a previous address) that I am anxious to get my hands on in due course. Tad Customs lamps for his E-socket max at A7212, for 2xIMR or 3xCR123A, 200lm. That sounds lame... but in practice the output is steady and it's bright... sometimes wow! bright! depending on circumstance. McGizmo has pictures on his site showing an E2e where he removed the bezel to add an o-ring to increase the distance from the lens to the lamp socket, allowing him to install a G2 halogen 1000lm lamp. fivemega sells custom E-series 1000lm incan 18mm tube lights. Keeppower now sells excellent high amp hybrid IMR18350 cells with high capacity, 1200mAh. I hope this gives OP an idea that though an LED drop in is one single option for upgrade, multiple upgrade paths exist and can be taken simultaneously... E2e, you know?
 
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thermal guy

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While I'm waiting for a few incandescent Dropins to come in I put a M61W in her. Omg love it might just go with that.
 
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